No start, no crank, "hot wired" will run!!
08-02-2023, 06:00 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2023
Posts: 2
No start, no crank, "hot wired" will run!!
I've got a 2003 GLE, Automatic. Had just replaced the middle back ignition coil, yes the one under the intake manifold, and now it won't start. No clicky, No cranking, no nothing, except all the normal dash lights.
- Tried tapping the starter, tapping the "inhibit" relay.
- If I apply 12v to the inhibit wire on the starter, the small one on the side that comes from the relay, it'll crank right over, and if the key in in the ON position, it'll crank-up and run.
- Checked applicable fuses that I could read about that had anything to do with the starting sequence. No change, unless I missed an obscure one.
- Swapped the inhibit relay with the identical one beside it, no change.
- replaced the ignition switch (actual switch on left side of column behind the molding) no change
- replaced the neutral safety switch, no change.
Unless it's an actual wire somewhere in the mix that has gotten messed up somehow, I'm at a loss.
I'm actually considering just installing a momentary push button to use to spin the starter after you turn the key on, but would of course like to avoid that if possible.
Anyone have any ideas?
- Tried tapping the starter, tapping the "inhibit" relay.
- If I apply 12v to the inhibit wire on the starter, the small one on the side that comes from the relay, it'll crank right over, and if the key in in the ON position, it'll crank-up and run.
- Checked applicable fuses that I could read about that had anything to do with the starting sequence. No change, unless I missed an obscure one.
- Swapped the inhibit relay with the identical one beside it, no change.
- replaced the ignition switch (actual switch on left side of column behind the molding) no change
- replaced the neutral safety switch, no change.
Unless it's an actual wire somewhere in the mix that has gotten messed up somehow, I'm at a loss.
I'm actually considering just installing a momentary push button to use to spin the starter after you turn the key on, but would of course like to avoid that if possible.
Anyone have any ideas?
08-02-2023, 07:32 PM
#2
I've got a 2003 GLE, Automatic. Had just replaced the middle back ignition coil, yes the one under the intake manifold, and now it won't start. No clicky, No cranking, no nothing, except all the normal dash lights.
- Tried tapping the starter, tapping the "inhibit" relay.
- If I apply 12v to the inhibit wire on the starter, the small one on the side that comes from the relay, it'll crank right over, and if the key in in the ON position, it'll crank-up and run.
- Checked applicable fuses that I could read about that had anything to do with the starting sequence. No change, unless I missed an obscure one.
- Swapped the inhibit relay with the identical one beside it, no change.
- replaced the ignition switch (actual switch on left side of column behind the molding) no change
- replaced the neutral safety switch, no change.
Unless it's an actual wire somewhere in the mix that has gotten messed up somehow, I'm at a loss. Splice a temp wire to the relay pin to test?
I'm actually considering just installing a momentary push button to use to spin the starter after you turn the key on, but would of course like to avoid that if possible.
Anyone have any ideas?
- Tried tapping the starter, tapping the "inhibit" relay.
- If I apply 12v to the inhibit wire on the starter, the small one on the side that comes from the relay, it'll crank right over, and if the key in in the ON position, it'll crank-up and run.
- Checked applicable fuses that I could read about that had anything to do with the starting sequence. No change, unless I missed an obscure one.
- Swapped the inhibit relay with the identical one beside it, no change.
- replaced the ignition switch (actual switch on left side of column behind the molding) no change
- replaced the neutral safety switch, no change.
Unless it's an actual wire somewhere in the mix that has gotten messed up somehow, I'm at a loss. Splice a temp wire to the relay pin to test?
I'm actually considering just installing a momentary push button to use to spin the starter after you turn the key on, but would of course like to avoid that if possible.
Anyone have any ideas?
08-03-2023, 06:58 AM
#3
Engine ground wires reconnected and clean? What does the security light do when you attempt to start the engine?
Courtesy of my5th gen How To's
5thgen Nissan Maxima Quick Guide to No-Start Problems
Symptom (when turning the ignition switch to START)
Likely Cause
No Crank, No Nothing (not even dashboard lights)
If the car starts with a boost, then the battery is bad. If not, suspect the ignition switch, the battery cables, fuses, or ground/power distribution.
No Crank, just a Faint Click
Bad PNP switch, or Clutch Interlock, or Inhibitor Relay or fuse #20 (AT) or fuse #21 (M/T), both in the Fuse Block.
No Crank, but the Starter Clicks or Spins very fast
Bad starter or starter solenoid
Cranks But No Start (starter cranks, but the engine does not fire up)
If the red secuirty light is ON during cranking, then this is a NATS problem. Otherwise, bad Camshaft Sensor, or bad ENG CONT1 fuse (in Fusible Link and Fuse Box), or bad/no fuel delivery.
Engine Starts, then Dies
Bad MAF, IACV, Cam/Crank sensors, Coils, or Injectors stuck flooding.
Fuse/Relay Box Locations:
Disarmed phase: The theft warning system is in the disarmed phase when any door(s), hood or trunk lid is opened. The security indicator lamp blinks every second.
Pre-armed phase and armed phase
The theft warning system turns into the “pre-armed” phase when hood, trunk lid and all doors are closed and locked by key or multi-remote controller. (The security indicator lamp illuminates.) After about 30 seconds, the system automatically shifts into the “armed” phase (the system is set). (The security indicator lamp blinks every 2.4 seconds.)
Many people have a car not starting and blame the fuel pump. 98% of the times it is not the fuel pump. if the engine is not running, the ECU will shut off the fuel pump. When you first turn the ignition key on to start the car, the fuel pump will run. If the ECU does not get a signal from the REF crankshaft sensor within a few seconds, it shuts the pump off.
Courtesy of my5th gen How To's
5thgen Nissan Maxima Quick Guide to No-Start Problems
Symptom (when turning the ignition switch to START)
Likely Cause
No Crank, No Nothing (not even dashboard lights)
If the car starts with a boost, then the battery is bad. If not, suspect the ignition switch, the battery cables, fuses, or ground/power distribution.
No Crank, just a Faint Click
Bad PNP switch, or Clutch Interlock, or Inhibitor Relay or fuse #20 (AT) or fuse #21 (M/T), both in the Fuse Block.
No Crank, but the Starter Clicks or Spins very fast
Bad starter or starter solenoid
Cranks But No Start (starter cranks, but the engine does not fire up)
If the red secuirty light is ON during cranking, then this is a NATS problem. Otherwise, bad Camshaft Sensor, or bad ENG CONT1 fuse (in Fusible Link and Fuse Box), or bad/no fuel delivery.
Engine Starts, then Dies
Bad MAF, IACV, Cam/Crank sensors, Coils, or Injectors stuck flooding.
Fuse/Relay Box Locations:
- Fuse Block (J/B): Lower dash panel, by driver’s left hand
- Fusible Link and Fuse Box: Engine compartment, driver side, next/left to battery
- Relay Box 1: Engine compartment, pasenger-side, next to P/S
- Relay Box 2: Just behind front driver-side light
Disarmed phase: The theft warning system is in the disarmed phase when any door(s), hood or trunk lid is opened. The security indicator lamp blinks every second.
Pre-armed phase and armed phase
The theft warning system turns into the “pre-armed” phase when hood, trunk lid and all doors are closed and locked by key or multi-remote controller. (The security indicator lamp illuminates.) After about 30 seconds, the system automatically shifts into the “armed” phase (the system is set). (The security indicator lamp blinks every 2.4 seconds.)
Many people have a car not starting and blame the fuel pump. 98% of the times it is not the fuel pump. if the engine is not running, the ECU will shut off the fuel pump. When you first turn the ignition key on to start the car, the fuel pump will run. If the ECU does not get a signal from the REF crankshaft sensor within a few seconds, it shuts the pump off.
08-04-2023, 02:09 PM
#4
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2023
Posts: 2
If I bypass the inhibit relay, it'll crank right up. So yes I agree the relay isn't getting it's signal. My guess is that it's related to the Park/Neutral Safety switch, but not the switch, the harness. Previous owner installed a cold air intake with a long intake tube which put the air filter in the very close proximity of the PNSS, and since I was manhandling that thing to get the intake off, to replace the ignition coil, my guess is I messed up that harness somehow. All the PRDL lights work fine on the dash, so I'm guessing it's probably the specific wire that carries the PN signal to the relay.
Anyone happen to know which one that is?
Anyone happen to know which one that is?
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