Bose Woofer Cut Off Problem for 2001 Maxima
07-22-2009, 10:24 PM
#43
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 27
Man this has been botherin me for past couple of years, been a member here and never thought to search till now will try this this weekend. thanx guys keepin my fingers crossed... I need to buy a soldering gun and solder does it matter what kind of solder you use?
07-23-2009, 12:15 PM
#45
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carver, MA
Posts: 39
Use a 15 watt soldering iron and I use 60/40 rosin-core solder - 0.32" diam thick..
09-05-2009, 03:46 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 383
Some of us never had the "4 12" subwoofer cause we are compensating for something" issue as kids and more have simply out grown it.
Besides it'd cost a fortune to build something as well rounded as the stock bose system and wouldnt look as clean and you'd lose trunk space...which is kind of the point of a 4door sedan....
Besides it'd cost a fortune to build something as well rounded as the stock bose system and wouldnt look as clean and you'd lose trunk space...which is kind of the point of a 4door sedan....
09-05-2009, 05:28 PM
#51
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carver, MA
Posts: 39
there a clap icon around here someplace?
nm.. found it
Well Put Christobal65
nm.. found it
Well Put Christobal65
Some of us never had the "4 12" subwoofer cause we are compensating for something" issue as kids and more have simply out grown it.
Besides it'd cost a fortune to build something as well rounded as the stock bose system and wouldnt look as clean and you'd lose trunk space...which is kind of the point of a 4door sedan....
Besides it'd cost a fortune to build something as well rounded as the stock bose system and wouldnt look as clean and you'd lose trunk space...which is kind of the point of a 4door sedan....
10-22-2009, 12:46 AM
#53
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
i have a 2001 gle and ive been having this problem with the bose sub for a while. I have a pioneer in-dash TV installed but everything else is stock bose. last week i was driving and the sub was making a loud popping sound for a little while and then i started to lose power. i managed to keep the car alive to my house. my battery was dead and my alternator was shot. i bought a new batt. and alter. and installed them. the car lasted 2 days before the same thing happened again!! dead batt. & alter. again. i recharged the battery but havent put a new alter. yet because i dont want to keep blowin em. i want to find & fix the problem before i replace it so my first thought was that amp was shorting out so i checked it out. i pulled everything apart and double checked all the connections but couldnt find anything. so i decided to just buy another amp & sub. when i started looking i came accross this site.. lots of very usefull info on here. im going to pull the sub apart and resolder the 10 points and hopefully it will fix that problem. was just wondering if anyone else had this problem and if you think this caused my alternator to blow?
11-06-2009, 12:28 PM
#54
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5
I have a 2001 20th anniversary and I'm looking for more info about the Bose issue. When the issue occurrs, does the subwoofer stops completely, or just continue a little lower? It seems like when I'm listening to the radio, I'll have moments when the sub sounds extra deep and then go away. This is a small percentage of the time, so I wondering if I have the issue. I went in the trunk and even at the lower level, it seems like it's working fine. I'm just trying to get some clarification to see if I have the same problem. Thanks.
12-30-2009, 06:28 PM
#56
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carver, MA
Posts: 39
03-14-2010, 04:16 PM
#59
I have a 2001 SE that had the same problem, i tried the fix posted here but it didnt work for me. The guys at carstereohelp.com charged me $105 for fixing it,turns out its the relay in the amp(silver box). Worth the money for me since i wanna keep my audio stock, plus it comes with a 1 year warranty. The $105 was including shipping from San Diego to Florida but most local audio repair shops should be able to fix it for you. I went with carstereohelp because they specialize in BOSE and have a good reputation. Hope this helps 
03-14-2010, 08:14 PM
#60
I pulled mine out yesterday and reflowed the solder joints indicated. I couldn't see any flaws in the existing solder joints, but while I had it out I re did them anyway. So far so good. Went for a drive today to a friends house and it's working solid without cutting out. Thanks for the how to.
From looking at it, that little circuit board is the sub amp and low pass filter all in one. A cheap *** amp to say the least.
Now if only those crappy tweeters up front would perform it might sound O.K.
It sounds semi-O.K with CD, but FM not so good.
Since 2 channel audio is one of my passions, what would one expect but this critisism?
From looking at it, that little circuit board is the sub amp and low pass filter all in one. A cheap *** amp to say the least.
Now if only those crappy tweeters up front would perform it might sound O.K.
It sounds semi-O.K with CD, but FM not so good.
Since 2 channel audio is one of my passions, what would one expect but this critisism?
05-05-2010, 12:20 AM
#61
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,201
didnt work for me and I can solder pretty decently.. After I reinstalled it it wasnt working but would work in and out if i banged no the sub with a wrench 
So its something else loose in mine.. Didnt the engineers take into account all the vibration that the circuit would be subjected to.. and place the amp somewhere else farther than 1/2" from the sub! Oh well.. Guess Ill put a basslink in like I always wanted to!
05-05-2010, 04:43 PM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
didnt work for me and I can solder pretty decently.. After I reinstalled it it wasnt working but would work in and out if i banged no the sub with a wrench So its something else loose in mine.. Didnt the engineers take into account all the vibration that the circuit would be subjected to.. and place the amp somewhere else farther than 1/2" from the sub! Oh well.. Guess Ill put a basslink in like I always wanted to!
05-16-2010, 09:19 AM
#63
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 16
radio fades out
Help! Help! I have a 20th anniv the sub is working. I think... well the problem that I’m having is the sound fades out with horrible distortion. I have checked fuse box I have the radio out and played with the wire harness with no luck. Now one black cable wire that I traced back to the trunk to a black box. Not sure if I need to buy a new radio or it’s the black box with Bose label on it.
05-25-2010, 03:40 PM
#64
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 2
I just did this fix and it is working well. This will last me till it all comes out. The sub does pretty well, but I wonder what a 10 or 12 OB will be like
The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....
The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....
05-26-2010, 06:40 AM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: London, ON, Canada
Posts: 595
I just did this fix and it is working well. This will last me till it all comes out. The sub does pretty well, but I wonder what a 10 or 12 OB will be like
The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....
The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....
I'm all JVC/Alpine/Rockford in my car and it sounds a million times better.
05-26-2010, 04:11 PM
#66
I just did this fix and it is working well. This will last me till it all comes out. The sub does pretty well, but I wonder what a 10 or 12 OB will be like
The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....
The mids and highs are pretty rough. Although the highs give a pretty good image, they are very shouty, especially in the female voice range. They are also limited in extension as cymbals and syllables are poorly reproduced. Also, the mid-bass is very muddy and poorly defined. For Pop or rock, its great, but anything that needs a bit of accuracy, I'm left wanting more.....
05-28-2010, 05:08 PM
#68
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 2
Actually for a factory system, the Bose is not horrible. Compared to most door only, no tweeter systems this is far better. The cone tweeters extend pretty low, so there is a bit of a believable image. Also the 8" sub while not hi fidelity by any sort does shake the rear view mirror. Now Bose home speakers are another story. 
There is a build over at diymobileaudio forum in a Maxima that I am watching. And although I'm not going to spend the dough he is, I'd like to do something similar.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-pg-xenon.html
BTW, the fix worked fine for 3 days, but cut out again today, so I may need to try again.
There is a build over at diymobileaudio forum in a Maxima that I am watching. And although I'm not going to spend the dough he is, I'd like to do something similar.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-pg-xenon.html
BTW, the fix worked fine for 3 days, but cut out again today, so I may need to try again.
07-30-2010, 07:18 PM
#72
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carver, MA
Posts: 39
07-30-2010, 07:18 PM
#73
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Carver, MA
Posts: 39
07-31-2010, 01:58 PM
#75
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 19
I fixed mine ....here is the best solution...i went out and bought a relay..but bigger and better than that cheap Japanese relay that's originally in it....this one will not solder in the same holes but the other holes that are around it ...you can see the other holes in the picture from the previous post.... here is what it says on the relay...and the brand name and specs on this relay that i have.... GUARDIAN ELECTRIC CONT 3A (im assuming its amps) RES 120AC (resistance) 1575 series A410-366183-12 COIL 12v (volts DC =D ) R.O.C TAIWAN 383TA ......that is all what it says on this relay...and its blue in color.... i trust the Taiwanese than the Japanese any day ...but actually the original relay pins are loose and even if you solder them correctly ...the sub would still go out...it is just that its cheaply made...but this one is more sturdy and reliable ....i bought mine from Mendelsons in Dayton ohio....here is there website ..they don't have it on their website but im sure you can call them and describe what i told you over the phone and have them mail it to you... www.mendelsons.com ...and since this relay is bigger...u have to use a hammer on the top cover and bend it a little for the cover to close ...good luck
....here is the best solution...i went out and bought a relay..but bigger and better than that cheap Japanese relay that's originally in it....this one will not solder in the same holes but the other holes that are around it ...you can see the other holes in the picture from the previous post.... here is what it says on the relay...and the brand name and specs on this relay that i have.... GUARDIAN ELECTRIC CONT 3A (im assuming its amps) RES 120AC (resistance) 1575 series A410-366183-12 COIL 12v (volts DC =D ) R.O.C TAIWAN 383TA ......that is all what it says on this relay...and its blue in color.... i trust the Taiwanese than the Japanese any day ...but actually the original relay pins are loose and even if you solder them correctly ...the sub would still go out...it is just that its cheaply made...but this one is more sturdy and reliable ....i bought mine from Mendelsons in Dayton ohio....here is there website ..they don't have it on their website but im sure you can call them and describe what i told you over the phone and have them mail it to you... www.mendelsons.com ...and since this relay is bigger...u have to use a hammer on the top cover and bend it a little for the cover to close ...good luck
08-02-2010, 06:28 PM
#76
Does the replacement relay only fit one way? How do you know how to orientate it? I'd rather just replace a $3 relay than mess with a replacement amp, even used.
I pulled mine today, again, and this time sucked out all the old solder on the relay joints and then resoldered. I put it back in and it didn't even work this time!! Give it a whack, and away it went. Rediculous. Bose sucks the large horse phallus.
I pulled mine today, again, and this time sucked out all the old solder on the relay joints and then resoldered. I put it back in and it didn't even work this time!! Give it a whack, and away it went. Rediculous. Bose sucks the large horse phallus.
08-02-2010, 06:32 PM
#77
08-09-2010, 01:34 PM
#78
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 19
That little gray orignal relay that bose put in the amp ...SUCKS..the pins always stay loose in the relay even if you soldered it correctly....you need to call that mendelsons warehouse and have them mail you that one relay that i described...it wont fit in the original holes so you have to fill those holes with solder...and resolder the new relay in the 5 other holes that are around that same relay...and after your done...you need to bend the aluminum cover a little bit so theres a buldge in it so it can fit together ...you have to do that because the new relay will sit higher than the old one...but it works perfectly...its been alomost 2 weeks for me and i always blast my music...i keep the volume on 22 and i use a wired cassette for my ipod so it gives me more bass
08-09-2010, 01:43 PM
#79
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 19
If you cant find the relay that i put in....email me at bvmp4@yahoo.com ....send me $15.00 to my paypal ..and i will go to dayton and i will buy the realy for this bose amp and i will mail it to you! ...i will post pictures up of my end result in replacing the relay soon
Last edited by biren41888; 02-09-2011 at 09:23 AM.