P0303 code. Can I drive with this code?
02-03-2009, 07:27 AM
#1
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Location: Quincy, MA
Posts: 6,255
P0303 code. Can I drive with this code?
Yesterday driving home from work. Car felt a little rough while driving. I was low on fuel so I though it was just fuel releated. Topped up on full but prior to making it to the gas station, car began missing and giving the blinking check engine light. After a while it turn solid. Car drove a little rough the whole ride home.
Got home, Checked the Code P0303- Random Cylinder 3 misfire. I reset it and went for a drive again to make sure. It came back again this morning . How reliable is the ECU at detecting the this issue. I have already ordered new plugs and I will be replacing the rear valve cover and that coil and the cylinder 3 coil.
Anyone ever deal with this before? Seems pretty random one coil would go bad all of a sudden. This car has performed flawlessly in the past year so surprised this happened without any advanced symptoms
Lastly can i drive with this or will it damage the CATS like mentioned in the FSM. Do i have to worry about piston damage?
Got home, Checked the Code P0303- Random Cylinder 3 misfire. I reset it and went for a drive again to make sure. It came back again this morning . How reliable is the ECU at detecting the this issue. I have already ordered new plugs and I will be replacing the rear valve cover and that coil and the cylinder 3 coil.
Anyone ever deal with this before? Seems pretty random one coil would go bad all of a sudden. This car has performed flawlessly in the past year so surprised this happened without any advanced symptoms
Lastly can i drive with this or will it damage the CATS like mentioned in the FSM. Do i have to worry about piston damage?
02-03-2009, 07:37 AM
#2
P0303 is Cyl 3 misfire, not random/multiple; that's P0300.
Coils sometimes just die, but I'd check the coil and injector, all you really need is a multimeter.
Swap the coil from another cylinder to 3, see if the misfire jumps cylinders.
If you must drive it, unplug that injector to avoid converter damage. No piston worries.
Coils sometimes just die, but I'd check the coil and injector, all you really need is a multimeter.
Swap the coil from another cylinder to 3, see if the misfire jumps cylinders.
If you must drive it, unplug that injector to avoid converter damage. No piston worries.
02-03-2009, 08:04 AM
#3
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iTrader: (89)
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Location: Quincy, MA
Posts: 6,255
P0303 is Cyl 3 misfire, not random/multiple; that's P0300.
Coils sometimes just die, but I'd check the coil and injector, all you really need is a multimeter.
Swap the coil from another cylinder to 3, see if the misfire jumps cylinders.
If you must drive it, unplug that injector to avoid converter damage. No piston worries.
Coils sometimes just die, but I'd check the coil and injector, all you really need is a multimeter.
Swap the coil from another cylinder to 3, see if the misfire jumps cylinders.
If you must drive it, unplug that injector to avoid converter damage. No piston worries.
Last edited by Zack342; 02-03-2009 at 08:17 AM.
02-03-2009, 08:07 AM
#4
02-08-2009, 04:38 PM
#11
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Location: Quincy, MA
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What really sucks is i had to do it twice. I took the manifold off yesterday, did the coil and reassembled everything. Problem didn't go away. decided i would check the plug today and that is what i got. The top part came out and the threaded part remained in the block.
thats when my heart dropped. I used a screw extractor and it came out. I soaked it in WD-40 and it came out.used a vacuum to try to clean the cylinder to make sure no ceramic shards were in there.
thats when my heart dropped. I used a screw extractor and it came out. I soaked it in WD-40 and it came out.used a vacuum to try to clean the cylinder to make sure no ceramic shards were in there.
02-08-2009, 05:22 PM
#12
02-08-2009, 05:31 PM
#13
If you unplug it, and you have no spark, then yes, basically you just deactivated that cylinder. It still builds compression, and feels like hell, but it's inop.
If you've got a dead coil or something, it's best to disable the injector so as to not send raw fuel directly to the converter.
02-08-2009, 05:40 PM
#14
I wouldn't remove it (you'd have fuel flowing everywhere).
If you unplug it, and you have no spark, then yes, basically you just deactivated that cylinder. It still builds compression, and feels like hell, but it's inop.
If you've got a dead coil or something, it's best to disable the injector so as to not send raw fuel directly to the converter.
If you unplug it, and you have no spark, then yes, basically you just deactivated that cylinder. It still builds compression, and feels like hell, but it's inop.
If you've got a dead coil or something, it's best to disable the injector so as to not send raw fuel directly to the converter.
Good to know the next time I blow a coil.
04-22-2013, 12:52 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3
P0303 is Cyl 3 misfire, not random/multiple; that's P0300.
Coils sometimes just die, but I'd check the coil and injector, all you really need is a multimeter.
Swap the coil from another cylinder to 3, see if the misfire jumps cylinders.
If you must drive it, unplug that injector to avoid converter damage. No piston worries.
Coils sometimes just die, but I'd check the coil and injector, all you really need is a multimeter.
Swap the coil from another cylinder to 3, see if the misfire jumps cylinders.
If you must drive it, unplug that injector to avoid converter damage. No piston worries.
How do you check the injector? Sorry I'm an extreme newb. but getting into the fixing my own car thing because i can't afford to pay out the a$$ taking it to the dealership. I have a friend mechanic who does all the work for cheap, I buy the parts and do all the research.
Thanks in advance
04-22-2013, 12:58 PM
#17
How do you check the injector? Sorry I'm an extreme newb. but getting into the fixing my own car thing because i can't afford to pay out the a$$ taking it to the dealership. I have a friend mechanic who does all the work for cheap, I buy the parts and do all the research.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
04-22-2013, 03:44 PM
#18
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3
Ok so here's the history on my issues and car (I've spent about 10 hours researching all the issues and codes and several trips to my local mechanic who works out of his garage and this is where I'm at):
Car details:
- 2000 Maxima GLE - Standard transmission
- 170k miles
- I've owned for 1 year and other than what is described below, I have not performed any major repairs, other than regular oil changes and replaced the rear struts.
Previous Symptoms:
1. CEL on (was blinking before but not since I changed the ignition coils)
2. Was having very poor gas mileage, about 18mpg but now back up to 23mpg after replacing the ignition coils.
3. Engine Shuttering and CEL blinking - (has not happened since switching the ignition coils)
4. Failed NOX emmissions on the smog test (CO2 and other readings were within limits).
Codes:
1. P1320 E MIL - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
2. P1320 E PEND - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
3. P0303 G MIL - "Cyclinder 3 misfire detected"
4. P0430 G - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold.
Repairs performed:
About a month or two ago:
1. Replaced Spark plugs with plugs supplied by Autozone.
2. O2 Sensors: Replaced both Upstream O2 sensors (but not the downstream because I was trying to save $, and from what I read, the Upstream O2 sensors control the A/F ratio, and the downstream O2 sensors give the readings to the ECU as far as if the Cat's are doing their job. I decided to buy the downstream O2 sensors.
3. Had the mechanic remove and clean the EGR valve (to help with the high NOX emmisions)
Cleared the codes and all of them eventually came back, lasted about a week or so without the CEL cioming back on, enough to pass the smog test.
About a Week ago:
1. Ignition Coils: Switched out all the coils with UNITED IGNITION WIRE coils purchased from RockAuto.com
I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on within the first 20 minutes of driving. The only code I get now is the P1320 1 and 2. I cleared them again and they came back again.
My car runs much better now, gas mileage is back to where it was when I bought the car around 23mpg, although I've read others having up to 28mpg, but they had several performance modifications.
All the info I've gotten from the forums is that Nissan's don't like aftermarket coils and the car can run fine even though the ECU gives the CEL and P1320 code.
I called Rockauto.com and United Wire Corp and they say they get their coils from Standard Motor Products and claim that they are one of the largest coil manufacturers out there. They suggested that I return the coils and get the Standard Motor Products and see if those work.
They also have some Hitachi brand which are slightly more expensive but maybe those work better since they are Japanese?
Sorry for the long winded post, but i figure better to have all the info than go back and forth 10 times.
Car details:
- 2000 Maxima GLE - Standard transmission
- 170k miles
- I've owned for 1 year and other than what is described below, I have not performed any major repairs, other than regular oil changes and replaced the rear struts.
Previous Symptoms:
1. CEL on (was blinking before but not since I changed the ignition coils)
2. Was having very poor gas mileage, about 18mpg but now back up to 23mpg after replacing the ignition coils.
3. Engine Shuttering and CEL blinking - (has not happened since switching the ignition coils)
4. Failed NOX emmissions on the smog test (CO2 and other readings were within limits).
Codes:
1. P1320 E MIL - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
2. P1320 E PEND - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
3. P0303 G MIL - "Cyclinder 3 misfire detected"
4. P0430 G - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold.
Repairs performed:
About a month or two ago:
1. Replaced Spark plugs with plugs supplied by Autozone.
2. O2 Sensors: Replaced both Upstream O2 sensors (but not the downstream because I was trying to save $, and from what I read, the Upstream O2 sensors control the A/F ratio, and the downstream O2 sensors give the readings to the ECU as far as if the Cat's are doing their job. I decided to buy the downstream O2 sensors.
3. Had the mechanic remove and clean the EGR valve (to help with the high NOX emmisions)
Cleared the codes and all of them eventually came back, lasted about a week or so without the CEL cioming back on, enough to pass the smog test.
About a Week ago:
1. Ignition Coils: Switched out all the coils with UNITED IGNITION WIRE coils purchased from RockAuto.com
I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on within the first 20 minutes of driving. The only code I get now is the P1320 1 and 2. I cleared them again and they came back again.
My car runs much better now, gas mileage is back to where it was when I bought the car around 23mpg, although I've read others having up to 28mpg, but they had several performance modifications.
All the info I've gotten from the forums is that Nissan's don't like aftermarket coils and the car can run fine even though the ECU gives the CEL and P1320 code.
I called Rockauto.com and United Wire Corp and they say they get their coils from Standard Motor Products and claim that they are one of the largest coil manufacturers out there. They suggested that I return the coils and get the Standard Motor Products and see if those work.
They also have some Hitachi brand which are slightly more expensive but maybe those work better since they are Japanese?
Sorry for the long winded post, but i figure better to have all the info than go back and forth 10 times.
04-22-2013, 03:51 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: NJ
Posts: 734
i once in a while get the p0300 code i still drive it but it goes on and off its been off for about a month without turning on. i had a misfire in 2 and i changed it with a oem coil and it went away. in the summer i want to change my valve covers front and rear, gaskets, spark plugs and really have to comtemplate if i want to get brand new coils cause coils are expensive
04-22-2013, 03:52 PM
#20
Ok so here's the history on my issues and car (I've spent about 10 hours researching all the issues and codes and several trips to my local mechanic who works out of his garage and this is where I'm at):
Car details:
- 2000 Maxima GLE - Standard transmission
- 170k miles
- I've owned for 1 year and other than what is described below, I have not performed any major repairs, other than regular oil changes and replaced the rear struts.
Previous Symptoms:
1. CEL on (was blinking before but not since I changed the ignition coils)
2. Was having very poor gas mileage, about 18mpg but now back up to 23mpg after replacing the ignition coils.
3. Engine Shuttering and CEL blinking - (has not happened since switching the ignition coils)
4. Failed NOX emmissions on the smog test (CO2 and other readings were within limits).
Codes:
1. P1320 E MIL - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
2. P1320 E PEND - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
3. P0303 G MIL - "Cyclinder 3 misfire detected"
4. P0430 G - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold.
Repairs performed:
About a month or two ago:
1. Replaced Spark plugs with plugs supplied by Autozone.
2. O2 Sensors: Replaced both Upstream O2 sensors (but not the downstream because I was trying to save $, and from what I read, the Upstream O2 sensors control the A/F ratio, and the downstream O2 sensors give the readings to the ECU as far as if the Cat's are doing their job. I decided to buy the downstream O2 sensors.
3. Had the mechanic remove and clean the EGR valve (to help with the high NOX emmisions)
Cleared the codes and all of them eventually came back, lasted about a week or so without the CEL cioming back on, enough to pass the smog test.
About a Week ago:
1. Ignition Coils: Switched out all the coils with UNITED IGNITION WIRE coils purchased from RockAuto.com
I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on within the first 20 minutes of driving. The only code I get now is the P1320 1 and 2. I cleared them again and they came back again.
My car runs much better now, gas mileage is back to where it was when I bought the car around 23mpg, although I've read others having up to 28mpg, but they had several performance modifications.
All the info I've gotten from the forums is that Nissan's don't like aftermarket coils and the car can run fine even though the ECU gives the CEL and P1320 code.
I called Rockauto.com and United Wire Corp and they say they get their coils from Standard Motor Products and claim that they are one of the largest coil manufacturers out there. They suggested that I return the coils and get the Standard Motor Products and see if those work.
They also have some Hitachi brand which are slightly more expensive but maybe those work better since they are Japanese?
Sorry for the long winded post, but i figure better to have all the info than go back and forth 10 times.
Car details:
- 2000 Maxima GLE - Standard transmission
- 170k miles
- I've owned for 1 year and other than what is described below, I have not performed any major repairs, other than regular oil changes and replaced the rear struts.
Previous Symptoms:
1. CEL on (was blinking before but not since I changed the ignition coils)
2. Was having very poor gas mileage, about 18mpg but now back up to 23mpg after replacing the ignition coils.
3. Engine Shuttering and CEL blinking - (has not happened since switching the ignition coils)
4. Failed NOX emmissions on the smog test (CO2 and other readings were within limits).
Codes:
1. P1320 E MIL - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
2. P1320 E PEND - "Distributor Signal Interrupt"
3. P0303 G MIL - "Cyclinder 3 misfire detected"
4. P0430 G - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold.
Repairs performed:
About a month or two ago:
1. Replaced Spark plugs with plugs supplied by Autozone.
2. O2 Sensors: Replaced both Upstream O2 sensors (but not the downstream because I was trying to save $, and from what I read, the Upstream O2 sensors control the A/F ratio, and the downstream O2 sensors give the readings to the ECU as far as if the Cat's are doing their job. I decided to buy the downstream O2 sensors.
3. Had the mechanic remove and clean the EGR valve (to help with the high NOX emmisions)
Cleared the codes and all of them eventually came back, lasted about a week or so without the CEL cioming back on, enough to pass the smog test.
About a Week ago:
1. Ignition Coils: Switched out all the coils with UNITED IGNITION WIRE coils purchased from RockAuto.com
I cleared the codes and the CEL comes back on within the first 20 minutes of driving. The only code I get now is the P1320 1 and 2. I cleared them again and they came back again.
My car runs much better now, gas mileage is back to where it was when I bought the car around 23mpg, although I've read others having up to 28mpg, but they had several performance modifications.
All the info I've gotten from the forums is that Nissan's don't like aftermarket coils and the car can run fine even though the ECU gives the CEL and P1320 code.
I called Rockauto.com and United Wire Corp and they say they get their coils from Standard Motor Products and claim that they are one of the largest coil manufacturers out there. They suggested that I return the coils and get the Standard Motor Products and see if those work.
They also have some Hitachi brand which are slightly more expensive but maybe those work better since they are Japanese?
Sorry for the long winded post, but i figure better to have all the info than go back and forth 10 times.
04-23-2013, 08:32 AM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3
Is there a sure way of getting this rubber component out? I can't even get to the spark plug now if I wanted to remove it because the rubber cap from the ignition coil is over the spark plug.
Finally I just took the rubber cap off the Nissan OE coil and inserted it into place, so it just fit into the cap from the aftermarket coil. car seems to run ok. Not as good as with the brand new coils (which are the aftermarket United Wire Corp. ones) but I'm returning those for the Hitachi's which are slightly more expensive and supposed to be better, yet not as expensive as OE parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sklar-Instruments-Allis-Locking-Tissue-Forceps-8-3X4-Teeth-Surgical-Forceps-New-/281093664596?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D350299820753%26ps%3D54
04-03-2017, 06:44 AM
#22
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: 585 area code
Posts: 41
still having the p1800 code and p0303 code
okay so over the weekend I replaced all coils and spark plugs also manifold gasket on my 02 maxima and then I started the car it was no longer skipping and ran and idled perfect only part that I know of as of now that I need was the part for the p1800 which is the vias...but for some reason I still got the p0303 still is there something I possibly missed?
04-04-2017, 06:02 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,284
okay so over the weekend I replaced all coils and spark plugs also manifold gasket on my 02 maxima and then I started the car it was no longer skipping and ran and idled perfect only part that I know of as of now that I need was the part for the p1800 which is the vias...but for some reason I still got the p0303 still is there something I possibly missed?
04-04-2017, 06:30 AM
#24
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: 585 area code
Posts: 41
Awww man thanks so basically kinda reset the computer okay thanks
06-26-2017, 06:15 AM
#25
i am bumping this, if I have had a P0302 (cylinder #2 misfire detected) for an unknown amount of time should I be concerned?
id say maybe about a month since I felt my accelartion take a dump one day really badly, hasnt been too noticable since, but i will not forget the day the maxima did not get up and go and when I asked it to.
I have inspection due, and have this code. I want to get OEM, but is hitachi just as good for coils?
is it crazy or anything else I should know when hiring a shop to do coils?
I just did spark plugs 25k miles ago, and am on original coils from 2002.
215k miles on the odometer.
id say maybe about a month since I felt my accelartion take a dump one day really badly, hasnt been too noticable since, but i will not forget the day the maxima did not get up and go and when I asked it to.
I have inspection due, and have this code. I want to get OEM, but is hitachi just as good for coils?
is it crazy or anything else I should know when hiring a shop to do coils?
I just did spark plugs 25k miles ago, and am on original coils from 2002.
215k miles on the odometer.
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