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Old 03-12-2009, 11:51 AM   #1
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How to pull ABS codes?

I did a search and for some reason, most of the threads seemed completely unrelated.

My ABS light came on this morning after driving about 2 miles. Turn off the car, the light is out when I restart but comes back on after driving a mile or so. I noticed the last restart, that just before the ABS light came on, my speedometer was reading 20 mph and I know I was going faster than that. When the ABS light came on, the speedometer returned to the actual speed I was going, which was 40 mph.

I just had the axle, hub and wheel bearing replaced on Monday and this problem started today (Thursday). I've driven about 200 miles since the work was done. Wet and cold today, so all I have done was look at the front wheel area to make sure the ABS sensor isn't just hanging down. Other than making sure the sensor bolt is tight, what else should I be looking at?
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:01 PM   #2
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Is your cruise control working? If not, any of those lights on and/or flashing?

Gonna need a Consult machine to get codes.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Is your cruise control working? If not, any of those lights on and/or flashing?
I didn't check the cruise control. The ABS light is solidly illuminated though.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:09 PM   #4
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Did you replace the parts previously? If not, did you talk to your mechanic?

Sounds like a bad sensor. They typically damage the wiring/sensor when removing all the surrounding parts.

Might want to check resistance in the wiring. You have the ESM? Check page BR-62 for reference.
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Old 03-12-2009, 12:39 PM   #5
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The best way is to ohm test the speeds sensor.
Is the ABS engaging at all during braking?
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Old 03-12-2009, 02:32 PM   #6
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Found the problem...the shop didn't tighten the bolt for the ABS sensor. I figured I'd pull the sensor out, thinking maybe they got grease on it. Put the 12mm socket on the bolt and it wasn't even tight. Still removed the sensor to make sure it was clean. Took a lot more turns of the ratchet to tighten it back down than to remove it.
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Old 03-12-2009, 03:55 PM   #7
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Good deal! Easy fix.
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:05 PM   #8
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Now. if only tightening a bolt would take care of my bad O2....
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:21 PM   #9
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Just spray it with WD40
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:52 PM   #10
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Since the either search function is FUBAR, or the threads are gone....how do you pull the ABS codes?
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Since the either search function is FUBAR, or the threads are gone....how do you pull the ABS codes?
Have you read this thread you posted in? If so, you would have seen in post #2, where I said you need a Consult II machine (dealer) to scan.
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Old 03-12-2009, 06:15 PM   #12
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mine just came on also
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Old 03-12-2009, 06:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VQP0WER View Post
...They typically damage the wiring/sensor when removing all the surrounding parts....
What kind of mechanic do you take your cars to that "typically" break parts and not fix them.

Anyways, if it was just a loose sensor than that was an easy fix.

You can read the ABS codes with other scan tools besides the Nissan Consult tool, just not with your regular code reader.
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Old 03-12-2009, 06:40 PM   #14
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You can read the ABS codes with other scan tools besides the Nissan Consult tool, just not with your regular code reader.
And what scanner would this be, and who would have one?
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Old 03-12-2009, 06:47 PM   #15
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And what scanner would this be, and who would have one?
More than likely a Modis, Solus, etc high end diagnostic tool can read the codes. Most likely found in the higher end shops, not your typical mom and pop type places due to extreme cost.

But a CONSULT-II is easier to find, and is guaranteed to read them.

Actually, IIRC Cipher can read the ABS codes as well.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:04 PM   #16
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I was actually looking at a nice Actron scanner, but the dang thing can only read Domestic ABS codes.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:22 PM   #17
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my abs light is on as well. just started happening on Tuesday...I was driving home from work sitting at a red light, and i felt the pulsation of the ABS engaging/disengaging FOLLOWED by the amber "ABS" light in my dash

(arrrrgh another damn problem with the max *sigh*)

So at this point i cut the car off, and start it back up....ABS light is OFF.......I then drive for two blocks and it comes back on


Today it goes out and I drive for like 75 miles without it coming on, now its back on and going on/off....

When i put the car in accessory mode, the ABS light stays on and i can hear the ABS disengaging/engaging as i go from Ignition off, to Ignition on

Would this be sensor related or would it be the ABS pump/actuator?

Since consult II is the next best thing and the ABS light is on, based on what im reading the best thing to do is to take it into the STEALERSHIP since i dont know any one local with a consult II
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:32 PM   #18
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hi-tek,

Your cheapest option right now would be to pull the tires off and clean the sensors. If that doesn't seem to work, you might have to bite the bullet.
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Old 03-12-2009, 10:55 PM   #19
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sorry to go off topic but is something wrong with the search engine cuz its not giving related topics??
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Old 03-12-2009, 11:07 PM   #20
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Sucks that my regular code reader wouldn't pull the codes but glad I figured it out anyway.
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Old 03-13-2009, 03:41 PM   #21
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Have you read this thread you posted in? If so, you would have seen in post #2, where I said you need a Consult II machine (dealer) to scan.
Yes, I did see where you said that.

I'm looking for a write up of the "ground pin #9" method.
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Old 03-13-2009, 03:54 PM   #22
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Yes, I did see where you said that.

I'm looking for a write up of the "ground pin #9" method.
That may work for prior models, but the A33B FSM specifically states that they can only be pulled via a diagnostic scanner. No mention of grounding the OBD-II connector at all.

If you clearly saw that you need a diagnostic machine to check, as you said above, then why are you asking for a method that doesn't exist?
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Old 03-13-2009, 04:19 PM   #23
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That may work for prior models, but the A33B FSM specifically states that they can only be pulled via a diagnostic scanner. No mention of grounding the OBD-II connector at all.

If you clearly saw that you need a diagnostic machine to check, as you said above, then why are you asking for a method that doesn't exist?
Simply because I don't know that, just that someone stated it.

Just because it isn't in the manual, doesn't mean it doesn't exist!
It appears that either pin 7 or 9 is the magic one. Hmm.
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Old 03-13-2009, 05:51 PM   #24
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Simply because I don't know that, just that someone stated it.

Just because it isn't in the manual, doesn't mean it doesn't exist!
It appears that either pin 7 or 9 is the magic one. Hmm.
Go ahead and ground those pins and let us know how it turns out....
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Old 03-13-2009, 09:51 PM   #25
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hi-tek,

Your cheapest option right now would be to pull the tires off and clean the sensors. If that doesn't seem to work, you might have to bite the bullet.

*sighs*THANKS VQPOWER.Im sick of the Max right about now

I just dumped 3500 dollars into it to get the throttle body replaced, ECU, IACV, New Mirror/Painted, New Tires, and wheel hub/bearing

Im sick of it......im not putting another 2 grand into it..........

G35 here i come
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Old 03-14-2009, 05:18 AM   #26
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Go ahead and ground those pins and let us know how it turns out....
Are you speaking from experience? Or....what?

Has anyone compared the wiring differences (if any) between the 5 and 5.5 gens ABS systems?

I'm just wondering if the only diffferences is in the FSM, with people following the original "ground pin 8" erronious information...so they just decided to take the self diagnosis out all together.
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Old 10-12-2010, 04:49 PM   #27
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Figured I'd dig this up instead of creating a new thread...

I just replaced the right rear ABS sensor on my 2002 and the ABS light is still on, based on Scottwax's solution just tightening the bolt turned the light off. When I went to replace the sensor the bolt was so corroded that the head broke clean off, the new sensor took quite a bit of effort to even seat all the way so I figured not having the bolt would be fine as it doesn't seem like it will go anywhere...will this really not turn the light off?
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:43 AM   #28
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Getting ABS codes thru ABS light

Quote:
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Have you read this thread you posted in? If so, you would have seen in post #2, where I said you need a Consult II machine (dealer) to scan.
Hey VQPwr: I definitely got the ABS light to blink some codes in my 03 Max by grounding the #9 pin (top right on wider side of OBDII connect) to the #5 pin (count right 2 left on lower row starting directly under #9)

Now i have no idea what to do with the codes cuz they're not on the OBDII list I have....
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:56 PM   #29
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Hey VQPwr: I definitely got the ABS light to blink some codes in my 03 Max by grounding the #9 pin (top right on wider side of OBDII connect) to the #5 pin (count right 2 left on lower row starting directly under #9)

Now i have no idea what to do with the codes cuz they're not on the OBDII list I have....
there is a self diagnostic procedure in the 2000 & 2001 fsm that is not in the 2002 & 2003 fsm. It is the "ground pin 9" procedure that you did. if you get the BR section of the 2001 manual, the procedure on grounding pin 9 starts on page 49 and a list of the "blink codes" is on page 63.

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Old 11-11-2010, 06:41 AM   #30
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Actually, IIRC Cipher can read the ABS codes as well.
That is actually correct and that is why I like Uprev.
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Old 11-11-2010, 07:03 AM   #31
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I definitely need to try this ground pin 9 procedure asap.
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Old 11-11-2010, 08:52 AM   #32
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I tried this pin#9 method and I could definately tell that codes were being thrown but the blinks were so faint as though the light was dimming not blinking.I couldnt read them...oh well.
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:00 AM   #33
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my abs light is on, anyone got a pic of where the sensor is on the hub, or wherever its located?
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Old 11-11-2010, 01:42 PM   #34
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Quote:
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my abs light is on, anyone got a pic of where the sensor is on the hub, or wherever its located?
The rear sensors are to be found on the rear door side of the axle with 1 bolt holding it in place, if you remove the rotor you'll see the reluctor that the sensor magnet picks up it's signal from. The fronts are located in the cv joint.
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:52 PM   #35
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Thanks for the post DennisMik with the heads-up on the 2000-01 fsm w the ABS diagnostic codes.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:32 AM   #36
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Just a heads up to anyone pulling out an ABS sensor to inspect and clean, where corrosion is an issue (salted roads), if the retaining bolt head snaps don't try prying out the sensor without a good soaking in penetrating oil (I like Castle Thrust) and working it free; it's plastic and will snap. Once its soaked for a bit try light taps to break it free and it pulls straight out.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:38 AM   #37
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I had to replace my ABS sensor last winter. Got an OEM part from Advance Auto only to find out the connector wasn't right!!! What a pain, anyways ended up getting the part from the dealer and my TCS SLIP ABS lights all went off!
My local dealer checked the code without charging me and cut me a good deal on the ABS sensor so it worked out alright.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:43 PM   #38
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now what

so I pulled the code - it's 35 - rear left sensor open circuit.... that means the sensor is dead, right?

so I tried to loosen the bolt and I gave it a good soak of WD-40 and it still snapped (

now what - time to bring it to the shop?

thanks.

btw - mine is 5th gen and the 'grounding method' does work to pull the code.
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Old 01-11-2012, 01:53 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dozu View Post
so I pulled the code - it's 35 - rear left sensor open circuit.... that means the sensor is dead, right?

so I tried to loosen the bolt and I gave it a good soak of WD-40 and it still snapped (

now what - time to bring it to the shop?

thanks.

btw - mine is 5th gen and the 'grounding method' does work to pull the code.
Yes, the 5th gen ABS codes are readable with nothing more than a paper clip, the discussion was on the 5.5 not having that capability.

An open circuit code means just that, the computer is not receiving any input from that sensor. This could mean a sensor failure, or a circuit failure (as it says right in the code description).

Follow the diagnostic procedure starting at BR-62.

Personally I would start off with making sure everything was plugged in and scoping the sensor, if that checked out then verifying circuit integrity from the LR up to the ABS control unit.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:55 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dozu View Post
so I pulled the code - it's 35 - rear left sensor open circuit.... that means the sensor is dead, right?

so I tried to loosen the bolt and I gave it a good soak of WD-40 and it still snapped (

now what - time to bring it to the shop?

thanks.

btw - mine is 5th gen and the 'grounding method' does work to pull the code.
Bust out the sensor from the outside (after pulling the rotor) and push the new one in. Friction fit will do the job.....any car near salt will snap that bolt.
My rear right has been held in by friction for three years now, no issue.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:55 AM
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