BiZzL3

ok so i was driveing home and i notice that my Brake light and my Battery light are both now on?... what does this mean and is there a way to reset the light's? i know on my 4th gen i did some thing like push the door button so many times then turn the car on..... any idea's?

nismopc

iTrader: (3)

alternator and/or battery

soto2635

iTrader: (3)

2x on mine i had this same issue and i had to replace the battery and alternator

3x i had to get mine replaced as well

nzelinsky

iTrader: (1)

sounds like alternator. It hasnt happened on my max but several other cars. Be careful you might get stranded

arcueda

iTrader: (3)

yup alternator most likely
had that problem

sanford7575

probably alternator.
get a volt meter and ck valtage of battery with and without engine on. should be arpund 13.5 and 12.5 respectively

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Most likely - alternator and you might have less than 10 miles to go .

BiZzL3

Thanks everyone, its all over..... i was driveing to work this morn and ALL my lights came on and ALL my gauges were jumpin, i got to work and DONE, lol put a new battery in it and i atleast got it home.........thanks again

Nelsito65

^^Not sure what you mean by "I got it to work and DONE", but this might not be the end of the problem. You should get that alternator checked before it ruins the new battery too, in case it is something you also need to replace.

princeholiday

my friend just found out her max brake and engine light came on too...I heard people not suggesting autozone alternators, what about advancedauto, and if not..what other suggestions?

mandyfig

You will damage your new battery of the issue is the the alternator. Did your battery supplier check if the alternator was charging sufficiently? And it was the battery which had an issue?

Battery issues are totally different from alternator issues. Your description is more of alternator problem.

Get the alternator tested pronto. If your alt is defective, your battery will last a few months only and you will be back in the same boat.

We (a lot of us) have been through your kind of symptoms.

Nelsito65

Brake and Service Engine lights can point to different problems by themselves. Brake light could be, among other things, as simple as a burnt brake bulb. Ask your friend to have the car scanned for codes too if the SES light has come on.
And by the way, I purchase most of my parts from Autozone, including my alternator, and I have had no issues with their parts. But I know some other members can't say the same.

princeholiday

Anywhere to have her have the alternator installed in brookyln, ny area besides stealership...thanks for the help...

Nelsito65

I'll step aside for others to advise; I'm a couple of blocks away from there...
If anything fails try the local forums:
http://forums.maxima.org/northeastern-u-s-11/

mandyfig

Mine's from advanceauto...can not complain, lifetime warranty.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Oh, you'll understand one day . I think, he is on the right track - based on his symptoms alt was undercharging the battery so he could only go as far as the charge in the battery itself allowed him to. I also think his 'dead' battery is still good - just needs to be recharged, preferably out of the car. I don't think there's any other problem with the car.

Nelsito65

Now I'm not sure I understand you. You "don't think there's any other problem with the car"? You mean the only problem was a dead battery?... but, the alt undercharging the battery is not a problem?... . I guess I'll understand one day...

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

I meant - no other problem besides bad alternator, there's nothing else to check there at the moment. I was also objecting to the idea that in his case alternator can possibly ruin new battery. I'd definitely check the voltage at 1k rpm after alt replacement of course.

mandyfig

This is not related to this post but I have come to realize that auto shops (had a direct experience with PepBoys a long time ago), to be specific certain mechanics will diagnose a bad battery and will go ahead and sell you a battery. A few weeks later, you take it in because your NEW battery is limping along and then they say, it is the alternator.

It was the alternator from day 1.

Replacing an alternator is much harder than swapping a battery they can quickly send you on your way.

Just an observation. I have heard it too many times.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Sadly but true... There's an option to actually check things around but they always take an easy route often at the owner's expense.

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

to batt or alt

MR MAD MAX 2K

my brake light came on today wen i started the car but went of later wen i was drivin what do that meen i hope not the altornator this car is becomeing a money pit i just put in a ac conpressor and thats not cheap

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

Check level of your brake fluid. My definition of a 'money pit' is $1k/year when it's 8+ years old.. If it exceeds that then yes, you've got one.

sontakke

I don't know about you but new car payment is in excess of $500 per month. Money pit is if your car needs $6000 per year in maintainance

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

At that rate almost anything fits definition of 'good, reliable car' . Seriously, I meant the money you actually paying for maintenance and was referring to the used ones, 6+ years old. At certain point any car requires more than 1k/year in maint+repairs. Some reach this limit earlier, some later. My 1993 SE so far still under the mark and 2k one has been probably around $800/year, including T1R summer tires and fluid/brakes changes. Over 10 years / 300k km I replaced 4 coils, starter, oxygen sensor, battery, ebrake, CV boots, ball joint, motor mounts, wheel bearing, rotors. I did all of that myself (ex bearing replacement) which helped to keep costs down as well as to avoid extra problems. I screwed up 2 sensors: MAF and ABS and was out for about $350 as a consequence, considering it price for education .

traffik

Yes she can take it to BYPerformance on cooper ave. @347-537-5975

arima

is my problem just brewing? I had the brake/battery light come on over a month ago. It came on over the weekend again. Does it stay on or does it just kind of stays on a few seconds? Both times it happened as i was parking the car. I've driven the car for the last 4days and nothing. Should i be worried.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

If both lights were on you should be and check alternator soon if only brake light was on - check your brake fluid level instead.

arima

both lights came on at the same time, but it was on less then 10second and then went away.

Nexus67

iTrader: (23)

Sounds like the beginning of the end. Would definitely check the alternator. When mine starting going, the light wasn't consistent, but the car finally did die (luckily I was within autoshop range and didn't have to go far).

BLACKKILA.GTR

iTrader: (16)

brake and battery light is an alty fail indication.... i just went through this and i had a performance alry on the car... make sure after u replace the alty that the battery is fullly charged

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys.....

I got the good old brake and battery lights this morning as I was driving around looking for parking.

I only drove a couple blocks with them on, then parked the car. My question is how far can one typically drive after the lights come on?

I have an appointment with my mechanic this afternoon and he is about 20-25 miles away, and I have to stop to pick up an alternator on the way. What do think my chances are of making it there without breaking down?

We can start a pool on whether I will make it or not and I will let you know the results tomorrow

stockmax

Just curious, what does the brake light have to do with the alternator?

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

Vball, when my alternator went out, I literally had about 10-15 mins of run time, before the car shut off. Granted, I had the A/C on, radio on, etc., and hitting your brake lights sucks up a TON of juice. If you were able to head to your mechanics shop without ANY accessories on (headlights, wipers, etc.), and rarely using your brakes, you _might_ make it. My suggestion would be to bring a spare fully charged battery with you, to swap out if needed.

ColdRain

just updating, this should be 14.5 with engine on and 12.5 with engine off at minimum.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info. Since I posted, I added a battery to my order thinking the same thing. The parts store is only 4 miles away so I should make it there on time. Unfortunately I dont have any tools so I will have to buy a wrench there too. Do you know the size of the battery nuts? I believe its 10mm.

BlackMacks

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, a simple 10mm box/open wrench will take your battery terminals off.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

great.....thanks! Wish me luck....i am heading out soon.....

I hope I make it and dont have to change the battery....its raining like a b!tch here today

Nelsito65

The brake light alone, usually nothing; the brake and the battery lights is usually an indicator of a bad alternator. There are also other light combinations that point to a bad alternator.

sontakke

Was there ever even any indication of alternator going before both lights went solid? Were they flickering once in a while in the past? How many miles?

I am wondering if I should just proactively change the alternator.

- Vikas