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Old 08-14-2010, 02:50 AM   #1
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Hot start issue - start the car when engine is hot, it will stall

hi, my 03 maxima has hot start issue.

If the car is hot (after driving a while), then stop it and start it again, 80% of time it will stall (rpm quickly go to 0), I will have to give more gas to let it stay, once it stays, then no problems.

The cold start is always good, no issues at all.

Engine won't stall at red lights, so, only a hot start issue.

What could be the problem?

I searched the forum, it could be IAV, MAF or TB need to be cleaned, but it seems most of the problem you guys having are cold start problems, and my problem is hot start, so any suggestions?

Could this be a vacuum leak? As this happened after I replaced my transmission. It was good before I replaced the transmission.

thanks
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:02 AM   #2
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anyone?
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Old 08-17-2010, 03:06 PM   #3
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Clean the throttle body. Mine was doing the same thing, cleaning the throttle body (since we don't have an external IACV) fixes the problem.
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Old 08-17-2010, 08:47 PM   #4
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My car did this when i first bought it. What fuel do you run in the car? I only run 93 octane and i dumped a bunch of fuel system cleaner into the car. Its been a year and a half and i have not had this problem since.
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:01 PM   #5
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try replacing the crankshaft position sensor.

read this also

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2414970
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Old 08-17-2010, 09:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
try replacing the crankshaft position sensor.

read this also

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2414970
Good link, thanks. I'd read the error codes first - if it's CPS ECU would record the code I think.
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:54 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Scottwax View Post
Clean the throttle body. Mine was doing the same thing, cleaning the throttle body (since we don't have an external IACV) fixes the problem.
Thanks. I was thinking about this. But couldn't find any instruction for that... do you have any link?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andypot1985 View Post
My car did this when i first bought it. What fuel do you run in the car? I only run 93 octane and i dumped a bunch of fuel system cleaner into the car. Its been a year and a half and i have not had this problem since.
Thanks. I use regular. I think I can give it a try -> buy a fuel system cleaner and try 93 and see if it works.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
try replacing the crankshaft position sensor.

read this also

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2414970
Thanks for the suggestion, this is the first time I heard about this sensor, I will have to investigate more about this stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Max_5gen View Post
Good link, thanks. I'd read the error codes first - if it's CPS ECU would record the code I think.
Thanks, yes, if I want to replace it I better get the code first. How much does it cost to get the code? I am in Toronto, Canada.

Thanks you all for your help!
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Old 08-18-2010, 03:58 AM   #8
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BTW, once thing I don't understand is, I didn't have this problem before I replaced the tranny, it happened only after the tranny replacement... I am thinking this has something to do with the tranny replacement. I first thought about vacuum leak, but I did a little research and ruled out vacuum leak and symptom is different. Will tranny replacement touch throttle body or crankshaft position sensor?

thanks
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Old 08-18-2010, 08:49 AM   #9
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Yes clean the throttle body, after that do an Idle volume re-learn procedure (It's in the FSM, link is above the Quote button in my sig)

As for cleaning the throttle body, to be safe you'll need a helper or a brick to do it.

1. Get a can of Sea Foam Deep Creep
2. Remove the intake plumbing to the throttle body so you can see the butterfly valve.
3. Set the E-brake
4. Turn car ON, do not start the car.
5. Shift to Drive.
6. Have your helper, human or brick floor the gas pedal.
7. Spray until the carbon is gone, if you are careful you may use a toothbrush to help break it up. Just don't touch the valve.
8. Wait a little bit of time (20 minutes or so) then put your intake back together.
9. Start your car, it will be hard to start because it is essentially flooded. If it doesn't start on the second try, hold the key in the start position and floor the gas. The car should cough back to life. Do not exceed 4 attempted starts. The ECU will kill the fuel system thinking the car is being stolen.
10. Kill some mosquitoes, this is easy just idle the car or rev it up to about 2K. The smoke will be a combination of carbon and seafoam.
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Old 08-22-2010, 02:28 PM   #10
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Thanks!

two questions.

1: where is the TB? do you have a picture?

2: in you FSM link, which PDF shows the relearn steps for idle speed? I checked EC.pdf, didn't see it.


thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Froggmann View Post
Yes clean the throttle body, after that do an Idle volume re-learn procedure (It's in the FSM, link is above the Quote button in my sig)

As for cleaning the throttle body, to be safe you'll need a helper or a brick to do it.

1. Get a can of Sea Foam Deep Creep
2. Remove the intake plumbing to the throttle body so you can see the butterfly valve.
3. Set the E-brake
4. Turn car ON, do not start the car.
5. Shift to Drive.
6. Have your helper, human or brick floor the gas pedal.
7. Spray until the carbon is gone, if you are careful you may use a toothbrush to help break it up. Just don't touch the valve.
8. Wait a little bit of time (20 minutes or so) then put your intake back together.
9. Start your car, it will be hard to start because it is essentially flooded. If it doesn't start on the second try, hold the key in the start position and floor the gas. The car should cough back to life. Do not exceed 4 attempted starts. The ECU will kill the fuel system thinking the car is being stolen.
10. Kill some mosquitoes, this is easy just idle the car or rev it up to about 2K. The smoke will be a combination of carbon and seafoam.
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Old 08-22-2010, 02:50 PM   #11
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start problems when engine hot

This is the typical problems of malfunction of cam shaft position sensor.Base on service maneul could happen one of the following condition;1) no signal at first few second when start 2)no signal when engine is running.3) sent out abnormal penterm.Any code detected? When engine is hot this sensor will start has problem,especially many years old sensor.

Last edited by waukly6; 08-22-2010 at 02:57 PM..
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Old 10-30-2010, 11:35 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by waukly6 View Post
This is the typical problems of malfunction of cam shaft position sensor.Base on service maneul could happen one of the following condition;1) no signal at first few second when start 2)no signal when engine is running.3) sent out abnormal penterm.Any code detected? When engine is hot this sensor will start has problem,especially many years old sensor.

No code at all.
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:47 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisk View Post
No code at all.
Have you performed idle re- learn procedure after transmission replacement?

I recently replaced my radiator support together with radiator and the car started to have this hot start stalling problem. After performing idle air re- learn procedure it came to normal. Search the forum there should be one for your year model.

In my case ECU seemed to freak out after I disconnected air temperature sensor during radiator replacement. While I can't see how it could be relevant and I'm sure I didn't touch MAF, TPS or other sensors this is what happened nonetheless.
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Old 10-30-2010, 02:47 PM   #14
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Just tried idle relearn, doesn't work, still the same
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Old 10-30-2010, 03:36 PM   #15
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Just tried idle relearn, doesn't work, still the same
Well it was worth a try... Silly question but still - does it idle at correct rpms after the engine is warmed up?
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:46 PM   #16
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Clean the throttle body, that's the solution.
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Old 10-31-2010, 06:56 AM   #17
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Well it was worth a try... Silly question but still - does it idle at correct rpms after the engine is warmed up?
yes, it does, even before the idle relearn.

I am going to perform the TB cleaning today.

Now I am little worried what if I cannot start the car within thye four tries after the cleaning?

This is what I meant:

Quote:
Do not exceed 4 attempted starts. The ECU will kill the fuel system thinking the car is being stolen.
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Old 10-31-2010, 10:29 AM   #18
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Ive had this same problem for awhile now. I just give it a little gas on hot starts from keeping the engine from stalling.

I'm on the fence about cleaning the throttle body, as I've read numerous horror stories about touching the butterfly and whether you should put your keys to the 'on' position.
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:07 PM   #19
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Good news, clearned the TB and the problem seems to be gone. I followed this instrucitons (don't have the link at this moment):

Quote:
Unplug the MAF connector
Remove an intake/air cleaner assembly from the TB
Turn ignition switch "on" (don't start the engine)
Put transmission on any gear (6 MT)
Floor the accelerator and secure it somehow at this position (I usually push it with a long wooden stick and hang on to a metallic frame of the bottom of the driver seat)
Now you get the throttle fully open and can start cleaning TB and butterfly valve.
Use dedicated TB cleaner (AutoZone ~$3). Spray, let it soak, wipe with a soft cotton rag. Don't use a paper as its' tiny abrasive particles can damage the special coating inside of TB. Do it several times till it's clean.
Use toothbrush to reach dip areas
Don't apply any significant force to the butterfly valve to avoid damaging the servo motor (important!)
When all done you may get some MAF related code, just erase it. Also, you'll get higher idle due to the better air flow (around 700 - 750 RPM). You can live with it or perform an idle relearn procedure. However, driving in this condition I noticed, the pinging that my car usually emits is completely gone. It's back after reseting an idle
I have a AT, so I put the gear to D and the butterfly is fully open when floor the accelerator. I sparyed seafoam and then cleaned it with cloth, I didn't touch butterfly only cleaned the TB, it was really bad.

after that I got P0113 error then I erased it and no problem yet.

So the key for the 02-03 DBW TB is to not force butterfly to open. In another words, floor the accelerator to let it open.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, it really helped me.
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:08 PM   #20
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I have previously owned Camry, 2 accords, 1 civic, they all have higher mileage then this maxima, why I don't have the problem on those cars? Is it NISSAN specific problem?

thanks
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:52 AM   #21
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I used Deep Creep this AM on the throttle body, but did it with the car running, figured I'd give the combustion chambers and intake manifold a good cleaning while I was at it.

With the MAF off the intake, car will not let you rev over 2500rpms, had a helper giving it just enough gas to prevent a stall, ran like that for 3-4 minutes, shut engine down for 15 minutes. Put everything back together, started engine up, smoked out the neighborhood, ran the car around the block to blow the loose carbon out, worked fine.

It did throw a code as soon as I restarted after having the MAF off, 1102 I think. I just erased it with my $35 ebay code reader and it did not come back. Idle and everything else seems fine.
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Last edited by trooplewis; 11-01-2010 at 09:56 AM..
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:06 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brisk View Post
I have previously owned Camry, 2 accords, 1 civic, they all have higher mileage then this maxima, why I don't have the problem on those cars? Is it NISSAN specific problem?

thanks
and especially puzzling for me was that in your case it started right after transmission replacement. I thought TB couldn't get dirty from transmission replacement... Congrats with fix, hope it lasts.
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:06 PM
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