getflushed

I've searched google for an answer but can't find one. I'm leaning towards a egr issue with the problem I'm having with my 2k max. How can I tell if my egr valve is stuck open??? Some people say if you start your car when cold and feel the egr guide tube immediately And its hot its a good indication that its stuck open because the egr should not be opened when engine is cold.? Is this true, other things I've read are to discontect the vac lines and plug them and see if the problem disappears????? That obviously wouldn't work because the valve is stuck So it doesn't matter if its getting the vac or not... You know.... Because its stuck! The vac is supposed to open or close it, vac lines connected or not! If its stuck its stuck! Lol. Everyone that has Read my posts are all kinda leaning towards a vac leak with my problem.( Hard starting, hesitation between 1500 to 2000rpm) I heave done a smoke test and came up with no vac leaks. But.... If the egr was partially stuck (which I heard is just like a vac leak I hear) it wouldn't show smoke cuz all its doing is. Recurulating the smoke though the chambers.... Right.

Sorry for my spelling I use my phone so.... The screens a little small lol

P. Samson

Those are not vacuum hoses that connect to the EGR valve......they are coolant hoses. The EGR valve "muscle" is strictly supplied by a stepper motor just like the IACV (which is why it looks the same). The EGR operation is monitored by the ECM and there are fault codes......whether a stuck open valve will set a code I'm not 100% sure, but low flow definitely will. A scantool will show you how the ECM is commanding the EGR operation.......at idle it should show "0 steps" (closed valve with no flow), and when quickly opening the throttle to accelerate the engine (no load) it should be above 10 steps. Low EGR flow (very often because of a plugged up exhaust supply tube) is more usual than too much. Did you replace the PCV valve......to eliminate the chance that it's flowing too much at idle (if it's gummed up it could flow too much at idle)? Conversely, not enough flow wouldn't be good either.

getflushed

Hey p samson! No I haven't done the pcv yet... I know its not difficult or expensive but when I clean my egr I will swap it out. Hopefully this will cure my issue! Its very annoying! And I don't want any further damage. I. Am going to hopefully get This all done firday night an will let you know the Outcome. Thanks p samson!
One other thing... This is what has been stopping me from doing most things to remedy this problem when I accelerate in the morning and my car starts the "miss/surge/hesitate I notice my headlights flicker??? Would a vac issue bogging the motor cause my dash lights to flicker?? Also when I was playing around with it at work I had it on acc. And started to play with the throttle as soon as I put the throttle in the same place it "bogs" I hear a minor bussing noise coming from my starter that dissapears the more throttle I give it. I scoped it out and the noise is definatly coming from the starter. It cranks fine when I go to start it. I know my starter is good. Its to hard to explain the noise. I showed my mechanic and he kinda just went" hmmm that's is wierd" and that was it! Soooo would a vac leak cause my lights to flicker? Its not a bad flicker but it only dims the lights at the spot that it bogs no where else. I just don't want to try and find a vac leak when all along its a electrical issue. The other thing that makes me think the starter noise has nothing to do with it is because the hesitation is worse when the engine is cold and better when warm.... The sound of the starter doesn't change with warm hot situations. And I don't seem to hear it when the car is running only when acc is turned on.... This could all have nothing to do with it. But its a coincidence that the lights flicker when it bogs and the starter makes that noise at the same position of the throttle when it bogs... Sorry if my dpelling and grammer is bad or some sentences don't make sense I'm typing this all from my black berry and I can't really see what I'm typing lol thanks for. All your help p samson I really appreciate it. A lot! Your very helpful and sound like you know what your talkin about!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

If the EGR was stuck open she wouldn't idle.

getflushed

Yea but it could be partially stuck open allowing it to idle couldn't it? Someone just told me to unplug my egr and see if it makes any difference. I don't know if it will, every where I read about stuck egr valves say that, when its stuck there's hesitation. At 1500 to 2000 rpm that's where I'm having issues... I have done everything else this is all that's left... Or its something to do with electrical then. But I don't see it being electrical because it makes a huge difference with hot and cold runs. Unless my alt is messed, I've heard people say they had hesitation around there as well. I'm going to unplug it and run it and see if it makes a difference.

getflushed

Just unplugged my stepper motor and it made absolutley no difference. Still hesitated at 1200 to 2000 rpm and didn't trip a engine light. Shouldn't it run like crap if I unplugged it???? Also can I unbolt the three allen key screws to take my stepper motor off? Will anything happen if I do like coolant leaking out or anything

P. Samson

It didn't make a difference (at idle anyway) because there is not supposed to be EGR and the coolant temp has to be above a certain temp as well before the system will allow EGR operation. The fault detection system also depends upon the electrical connection between the ECM and the EGR valve. Removing the stepper motor (which includes the pintle valve) won't prove a thing......you'll just have an open exhaust port. I"m pretty sure that your EGR system is probably operating correctly. The "flickering" lights is not normal and could well be connected to your problem. I can't see how you are getting any noise from the starter including the starter solenoid when there should be no power getting to it when the ignition sw. is in "Accessory". A low idle or as the engine quits lights will "dim", but the flickering is odd. With the ignition sw. "On" and/or the engine running do not just go ***** nilly connecting/disconnection things. Do you have good clean and tight battery connections?

getflushed

Ok so.... I'm totally sure now this is an electrical issue... It has to be... There is no other reasonable explination for this, so I guess I will remove my airbox and start by inspection my starter... I just made a video of the sound I'm hearing from my starter, so I will post it. And you can take a look!

getflushed

http://s1140.photobucket.com/albums/...10112-1656.mp4

theres the link just cut and paste it i could figure out how to upload it! lol

pkrainert

Mine pulled up a p0400 code and the starter is doing the exact same thing, I guess you don't have an answer yet do you?

yippzter

Hey guys I have 4th gen maxima and couldnt find anything about egr in 4th gen.

I have vacuum pump and want to try to test egr if egr its working because I have misfire p0301. Yes i already check coils, plugs, injectors, they are working good.
How do I test egr with vacuum pump?

I followed FSM but FSM doesnt say anything about vaccum pump. Only check for resistance. But I have seen people do with vaccum pump but how?
There are 2 hoses and 1 of them is coolant inside. And other one I am assuming its got no coolant but cant reach it.