Drop-in LED instrument cluster lighting for 5.5 owners. Finally found one that works!
#42
Yes, exactly. The "Cool White" will look blue just as you see in my pics because the tint forces the white to come out that way. If you went Warm Blue it'd be even darker and probably dimmer because that's less light (SBLEDs even has a chart saying so). I personally have not seen an '03 GLE cluster but if you try it please report back!
Last edited by SeedyROM; 04-17-2011 at 11:03 PM.
#43
Oh and post a bigger pic when you can
#44
I have '03 GXE which likely has the same blue tint. I too am very interested in this as from day 1 I always thought the gauge lighting was a bit dim. I would much rather have bright white lighting for the gauges than the blue so I may not be interested unless that's achievable. Is it possible to try a yellow/orange LED with the blue tint to try for a white appearance as the stocks do?
#45
I'm really psyched to do the cluster lights now. Weird, because it was never on my radar until this thread.
#46
Im just busting your b@lls. haha i got ya. yea i think in a little while this may be my next task
#47
"Warm White" LED's Produce a colour output/spectrum almost identical to Incandecents, they are the only LED I've found that can replicate stock intentions regarding tint/colour.
The truth is, they're actually Better. In my testing, I've found that Warm white brings out more vibrant colour, as well, LED's don't change colour over time, so the effect will last for as long as you own the car.
The one downfall is Warm white is not as bright as Cool White, but if you want to keep the stock colouring, this is one direction to go.
This is one of my jobs for people who just want brighter gauges, or brighter gauges with illuminated needles.
Here's the stock Illumination, with BRAND NEW INCANDECENT BULBS, for proper comparison. The Tach/Temp are stock, the Speedo/Fuel gauge are my blue LED Conversion:
Here's an example of one of my tests, in this picture, the Temp Gauge and Tach are illuminated with Warm White LEDs, in stock locations. It's a subtle difference, but the colours are more vibrant, and slightly brighter. You can imagine what it can look like with more than just one LED in the stock locations, or with needles illuminated:
Here is the Temp Gauge test, Single LED Warm White in stock Location, and Needle illumination with Warm white LED as well:
And for fun, this is the same except I have Blue Needle illumination under the Tach:
I can't wait to do a Warm White conversion on an SE, that's going to look great.
#48
Interesting stuff! When you say Warm White, are these the SuperBrightLEDs model or another brand? If they aren't #74-xHP3's, I wonder how it turns out with those exact "bulbs". Might be a tad brighter (or not) and still white which I know some would prefer.
Personally, I just wanted brightness and don't mind the blue at all but I love seeing options. I can't wait to see it on an SE when you try. Good work!
Personally, I just wanted brightness and don't mind the blue at all but I love seeing options. I can't wait to see it on an SE when you try. Good work!
#49
Looks like the link you provided for the #74-xHP3's have a 'Warm White' Colour. Should work fine, as stated, it will be just slightly dimmer. I haven't tried warm white on a GLE yet so I can't say whether it will be white or not, but I'm pretty sure it will be the same colour as stock, and should be brighter than new stock bulbs.
#52
You might have been on the wrong tab briefly. The other two #74 options are $2.49 whereas the correct one is $3.49. Or they could have been messing with their site last night. But yeah, the real price is the higher one, same as I paid
#53
#54
What are the socket size? t1 or ....? It seems like these dont come with new sockets and I would like to get new sockets as my old ones are funky. Great mod btw. Previous owner of my car had it looking good with blue but these look better.
#55
Perhaps he can shed some light on it. I'll shoot him a PM.
#56
The Socket/Holder is something I'd try to get from Nissan if you're attempting to replace it.
I will have a look a bit later I'm in a rush, perhaps there is a part number on them.
What do you mean that your old ones are 'funky' though? If you mean the wedge portion is a bit worn, fear not, just spread the contacts on the 'bulbs'. OR, better still, you can use a precision screwdriver to gently push the contacts in the socket back to position, this will create a tighter fit overall and better contact.
Personally, I'd never replace one unless the contacts were burnt up, which should never happen.
EDIT: No PN on the socket. Just says 'Toshiba V2'. If you can't get them and you need them, PM me, I can send you them, but I suspect it would be cheaper to get them through the dealer.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 04-19-2011 at 11:05 AM.
#57
Tuner and Seedy,
Thanks for the insight on this.
Since its a T5, that will only fit, will these go into a 'led/bulb' holder on the back? Cause I was thinking, I could use these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-T...item51988fdd1b
straighten out the wire, pull it out of the wedge and put it in the ones for the cluster.
Note, I haven't pulled my guage cluster yet. Just wondering if this would work
SOrry for all the questions. Just want to make sure i have everything before I open her up.
Thanks for the insight on this.
Since its a T5, that will only fit, will these go into a 'led/bulb' holder on the back? Cause I was thinking, I could use these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-T...item51988fdd1b
straighten out the wire, pull it out of the wedge and put it in the ones for the cluster.
Note, I haven't pulled my guage cluster yet. Just wondering if this would work
SOrry for all the questions. Just want to make sure i have everything before I open her up.
#58
Tuner and Seedy,
Thanks for the insight on this.
Since its a T5, that will only fit, will these go into a 'led/bulb' holder on the back? Cause I was thinking, I could use these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-T...item51988fdd1b
straighten out the wire, pull it out of the wedge and put it in the ones for the cluster.
Note, I haven't pulled my guage cluster yet. Just wondering if this would work
SOrry for all the questions. Just want to make sure i have everything before I open her up.
Thanks for the insight on this.
Since its a T5, that will only fit, will these go into a 'led/bulb' holder on the back? Cause I was thinking, I could use these
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-x-T...item51988fdd1b
straighten out the wire, pull it out of the wedge and put it in the ones for the cluster.
Note, I haven't pulled my guage cluster yet. Just wondering if this would work
SOrry for all the questions. Just want to make sure i have everything before I open her up.
You can get it to fit the socket with some modification, but to get it to fit into its actual location in the gauge cluster you would need to dremel/drill the circuit board hole bigger, and if you do that, then the socket won't lock into place.
In short, it won't fit without modification. As well, it won't give a signifigant increase in light output to be honest. I have tried 5 SMDs exactly like that, likely of higher quality, and not only did they hotspot, but they weren't as bright as you would think (brighter than the OP's method, but not worth the effort, plus they hotspot).
Don't apologize for the questions, that's what this forum is here for. These aren't basic knowledge questions, so it's all good.
EDIT: Happy 2000th Post to me
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 04-19-2011 at 08:11 PM.
#59
The Wedge size (bulb type) is T5.
The Socket/Holder is something I'd try to get from Nissan if you're attempting to replace it.
I will have a look a bit later I'm in a rush, perhaps there is a part number on them.
EDIT: No PN on the socket. Just says 'Toshiba V2'. If you can't get them and you need them, PM me, I can send you them, but I suspect it would be cheaper to get them through the dealer.
The Socket/Holder is something I'd try to get from Nissan if you're attempting to replace it.
I will have a look a bit later I'm in a rush, perhaps there is a part number on them.
EDIT: No PN on the socket. Just says 'Toshiba V2'. If you can't get them and you need them, PM me, I can send you them, but I suspect it would be cheaper to get them through the dealer.
#60
5.5 GLE Brighten
Here's the GLE job I did today. Turned out very well. Pictures taken in daylight with something draped over the gauges.
Pics with Point and Shoot (No, I still haven't gotten a good camera, sorry), there are no visible hotspots to the human eye.
Also, The Point and shoot made it look kind of blue in the pics, it's pretty white in real life.
Before (STOCK):
After (Budget-5.5 Brighten Job without Hot-Spots):
Pics with Point and Shoot (No, I still haven't gotten a good camera, sorry), there are no visible hotspots to the human eye.
Also, The Point and shoot made it look kind of blue in the pics, it's pretty white in real life.
Before (STOCK):
After (Budget-5.5 Brighten Job without Hot-Spots):
#61
#62
By Budget I mean it's under $150 (standard LED gauge conversion price).
The OP's method will work great, it just can't get any brighter, and there will be hot spots. Very decent method though, and very cheap!
#63
For fun comparison.
Firstly, I realize this may come across as a 'my way is better' jab. I want to assure you that is not the intention. I am thrilled that the OP has found a drop in that works, you guys should all take advantage of it.
Also, I don't really get many Gauge Cluster Customers from here anyways due to shipping expense, so it really doesn't bother me.
This is a really cheap way to upgrade your gauge lighting!
Personally, it wouldn't be bright enough for me, but it's a HUGE improvement over stock, and I am willing to bet that's good enough for a lot of you, especially factoring the cost differences. For those who are curious, my LED conversion on the 5.5 (shown) is about $125 right now.
I need to grab a few of the HPx3's for the LCD portion. I'm also hoping to get a few Coloured SMD's to try this method with (not the HPx3's)
Anyways I just curious to see a couple comparison pics, so I figured I'd post them.
~~~~~~Stock~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~OP's Drop in HPx3 LEDs~~~~~~~~~~~Tuner's 'Budget Friendly' 5.5 LED Conversion
Also, I don't really get many Gauge Cluster Customers from here anyways due to shipping expense, so it really doesn't bother me.
This is a really cheap way to upgrade your gauge lighting!
Personally, it wouldn't be bright enough for me, but it's a HUGE improvement over stock, and I am willing to bet that's good enough for a lot of you, especially factoring the cost differences. For those who are curious, my LED conversion on the 5.5 (shown) is about $125 right now.
I need to grab a few of the HPx3's for the LCD portion. I'm also hoping to get a few Coloured SMD's to try this method with (not the HPx3's)
Anyways I just curious to see a couple comparison pics, so I figured I'd post them.
~~~~~~Stock~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~OP's Drop in HPx3 LEDs~~~~~~~~~~~Tuner's 'Budget Friendly' 5.5 LED Conversion
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 04-22-2011 at 08:24 PM.
#65
#68
Non-existant due to lack of overall light and a LED colour that is too 'blue'. Those drop in LEDs are likely around 8000k based on the pictures (guessing).
Explaination:
LED's do not generally output the same Colour Spectrum as Incandecents, White LED's especially are difficult to get in a 'true white', which is somewhere between to 4500-5500k. Incandecents normally have a colour closer to 3000k.
What does this all mean in this application? The gauge tinting is designed for Incandecents that are in the 3000k range.
The redline is tinted, it illuminates a different colour by light refracting off of it, with the general lack of uniform lighting and almost total lack of the proper colour, it just doesn't illuminate hardly at all.
If the light were brighter it would illuminate simply because it's forced to (enough light behind it).
If the light were the proper colour, it would illuminate because it's pulling the proper colours out of the light that is there.
My gauges use both of these characteristics to illuminate the red-zone. That's why I made my own custom 'bulbs'.
I also let one of my 'tricks' out of the bag earlier in this thread, (see post #47)that's using a 'warm' white LED instead of 'cool' white. Warm white is more of a 2000-3500k, as such it will work almost the same as the incandecent. The downfall is 'warm' white LED's are quite a bit dimmer than 'cool' white LEDs, as such, they won't illuminate the gauges as bright. I would actually suspect 'warm' white to be similar to stock, possibly just a bit brighter.
Hope someone can test that soon and post for us.
Explaination:
LED's do not generally output the same Colour Spectrum as Incandecents, White LED's especially are difficult to get in a 'true white', which is somewhere between to 4500-5500k. Incandecents normally have a colour closer to 3000k.
What does this all mean in this application? The gauge tinting is designed for Incandecents that are in the 3000k range.
The redline is tinted, it illuminates a different colour by light refracting off of it, with the general lack of uniform lighting and almost total lack of the proper colour, it just doesn't illuminate hardly at all.
If the light were brighter it would illuminate simply because it's forced to (enough light behind it).
If the light were the proper colour, it would illuminate because it's pulling the proper colours out of the light that is there.
My gauges use both of these characteristics to illuminate the red-zone. That's why I made my own custom 'bulbs'.
I also let one of my 'tricks' out of the bag earlier in this thread, (see post #47)that's using a 'warm' white LED instead of 'cool' white. Warm white is more of a 2000-3500k, as such it will work almost the same as the incandecent. The downfall is 'warm' white LED's are quite a bit dimmer than 'cool' white LEDs, as such, they won't illuminate the gauges as bright. I would actually suspect 'warm' white to be similar to stock, possibly just a bit brighter.
Hope someone can test that soon and post for us.
Last edited by TunerMaxima3000; 04-23-2011 at 09:20 AM.
#69
Uh-oh!
If the redline goes away in the gauge at night with this drop-in, then count me out. This mod is no longer for me.
I can't believe I didn't notice that until now. I usually notice these things.
Damn it. I was really looking forward to this, too.
If the redline goes away in the gauge at night with this drop-in, then count me out. This mod is no longer for me.
I can't believe I didn't notice that until now. I usually notice these things.
Damn it. I was really looking forward to this, too.
#70
#71
I mean just look at it.
That said, this is another bonus to going the full custom route with TunerMax. Redline all up in your face
#72
Update:
First, thank you for doing the research Seedyrom. This was a fairly straightforward mod, and I love the results. The only issue I had was that the polarity was not marked on the leds which caused some guess and test moments. Didn't take too long.
Second, I want to address the redline. I have an 02 SE and my redline is bright after the change. I was going to live with it being gone, but it's there and brighter than stock. I'm not sure why the difference, but it's clearly there. Rochester, you can now resume your desire to do this cheap mod.
First, thank you for doing the research Seedyrom. This was a fairly straightforward mod, and I love the results. The only issue I had was that the polarity was not marked on the leds which caused some guess and test moments. Didn't take too long.
Second, I want to address the redline. I have an 02 SE and my redline is bright after the change. I was going to live with it being gone, but it's there and brighter than stock. I'm not sure why the difference, but it's clearly there. Rochester, you can now resume your desire to do this cheap mod.
#73
Update:
First, thank you for doing the research Seedyrom. This was a fairly straightforward mod, and I love the results. The only issue I had was that the polarity was not marked on the leds which caused some guess and test moments. Didn't take too long.
Second, I want to address the redline. I have an 02 SE and my redline is bright after the change. I was going to live with it being gone, but it's there and brighter than stock. I'm not sure why the difference, but it's clearly there. Rochester, you can now resume your desire to do this cheap mod.
First, thank you for doing the research Seedyrom. This was a fairly straightforward mod, and I love the results. The only issue I had was that the polarity was not marked on the leds which caused some guess and test moments. Didn't take too long.
Second, I want to address the redline. I have an 02 SE and my redline is bright after the change. I was going to live with it being gone, but it's there and brighter than stock. I'm not sure why the difference, but it's clearly there. Rochester, you can now resume your desire to do this cheap mod.
What colour did you go with? the 'cool white' or the 'warm white'? Warm white would likely illuminate the Red Zone as I mentioned a couple posts ago.
#74
I took a couple pics. They're kinda blurry, but I'll post one. Cool White. I was going to do the Warm White, but I always go low-key. I thought I would switch it up and do something a little more "obvious" this time.
#75
Here's the before/after pics. A little blurry, but the mod has already been documented well by others who pioneered it. I took the photos to show a friend how they turned out.
I need to open it back up and reverse the polarity for the lower bulbs. Didn't have time to mess with it anymore tonight.
I need to open it back up and reverse the polarity for the lower bulbs. Didn't have time to mess with it anymore tonight.
Last edited by nelledge; 04-25-2011 at 05:45 AM.
#76
Here's the before/after pics. A little blurry, but the mod has already been documented well. I took the photos to show a friend how they turned out.
I need to open it back up and reverse the polarity for the lower bulbs. Didn't have time to mess with it anymore tonight.
I need to open it back up and reverse the polarity for the lower bulbs. Didn't have time to mess with it anymore tonight.
#77
#80
Glad to hear you've had success nelledge! I hope more of you report back, that way we can get an idea of the quality of these LEDs. They do warn on their site about the polarity which as you said just takes flipping it before reinstalling the cluster.
Funny you should mention this. I was out driving tonight and noticed that I can see mine as well. I wouldn't say it's "bright" really but it's definitely visibly glowing. I guess my pics really don't show it too well. Can't wait to see your pics, blurry or otherwise.
Second, I want to address the redline. I have an 02 SE and my redline is bright after the change. I was going to live with it being gone, but it's there and brighter than stock. I'm not sure why the difference, but it's clearly there. Rochester, you can now resume your desire to do this cheap mod.