AC bearing
10-06-2011, 05:17 AM
#1
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Posts: 64
AC bearing
Just wanted to ask a little advice - my ac bearing is making noise and my mechanic acknowledges this. However he doesn't want to replace the bearing, he wants to replace the whole compressor. His reasoning is that there's a chance for a leak and that I would have to bring it in again; therefore replace the while thing.
Is this right? Or should I be looking to have just the bearings replaced. This is a 2000 SE with 185k.
Thanks in advance
Is this right? Or should I be looking to have just the bearings replaced. This is a 2000 SE with 185k.
Thanks in advance
10-06-2011, 05:29 AM
#2
just replace it...FYI mine started about 190k and lasted til about 210k....IJS
(ill say this, since the search button is fail right now, some people have replaced just the bearing, but i'd just recommend getting another one so you dont have to worry about it again, hopefully)
either way replace it yourself and just have him recharge the system
(ill say this, since the search button is fail right now, some people have replaced just the bearing, but i'd just recommend getting another one so you dont have to worry about it again, hopefully)
either way replace it yourself and just have him recharge the system
10-06-2011, 07:12 AM
#5
with that many miles just replace the unit and be over with.... the mechanic is right, replacing the ball bearing is an option but it will just eliminate one of the potential problems that could occur with the compressor...
10-06-2011, 07:15 AM
#6
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Cool air is coming out though which makes me think that the compressor itself is just fine. The compressor replacement is about $700 and I'm trying to not replace the whole unit if I don't have to
10-06-2011, 07:58 AM
#8
I'd like to see you replace just the pulley, and then read about the results.
Last week, my mechanic replaced the tension pulley, and that eliminated about 90% of the mystery rattle noise that I've been living with for over a year now. That other 10% we're both sure now is the A/C. It gets louder with the A/C on.
However, just like your mechanic, mine is mostly sure the entire compressor needs to be replaced. I've said otherwise, and his answer was for me to research it here first, then talk more with him about it if I decide to go that route. (Your mechanic seems for more adamant about his opinions.)
Since the tension pulley solved most of my problems, I'll probably leave well-enough alone. But I can't help but be curious about this solution.
Last week, my mechanic replaced the tension pulley, and that eliminated about 90% of the mystery rattle noise that I've been living with for over a year now. That other 10% we're both sure now is the A/C. It gets louder with the A/C on.
However, just like your mechanic, mine is mostly sure the entire compressor needs to be replaced. I've said otherwise, and his answer was for me to research it here first, then talk more with him about it if I decide to go that route. (Your mechanic seems for more adamant about his opinions.)
Since the tension pulley solved most of my problems, I'll probably leave well-enough alone. But I can't help but be curious about this solution.
10-06-2011, 12:00 PM
#12
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Last year, another mechanic who listened to my engine (back then it was not so noticeable) replaced the idler pulley and that obviously didn't do anything.
So I left the mechanic today and called another person who would be willing to replace the bearing, if that was the case.
At Autozone, i found this bearing (if the hyperlink fails; it's part MT2206). For those that would know, can you confirm that this would be the correct part number?
Thanks
So I left the mechanic today and called another person who would be willing to replace the bearing, if that was the case.
At Autozone, i found this bearing (if the hyperlink fails; it's part MT2206). For those that would know, can you confirm that this would be the correct part number?
Thanks
10-06-2011, 02:24 PM
#14
and what about when you actually need the a/c to help you defrost the windows or clear all the moisture from the inside of the front windshield when it gets all fogged up???
with that many miles just replace the unit and be over with.... the mechanic is right, replacing the ball bearing is an option but it will just eliminate one of the potential problems that could occur with the compressor...
with that many miles just replace the unit and be over with.... the mechanic is right, replacing the ball bearing is an option but it will just eliminate one of the potential problems that could occur with the compressor...
Heat is for defogging windshields. Idk why you're using AC.
10-06-2011, 04:35 PM
#15
Ha. No.
10-06-2011, 05:41 PM
#16
Heat works just fine for defogging and I no longer allow the compressor to run unless I'm using the damn AC.
If I wanted the compressor to fail twice as fast, then I'd have it running anytime I drive the car.
I started to notice how it runs for no (good) reason at all when my bearing started making noise. Now, had it not been running all these years, then I wouldn't have to replace the damn bearing, now would I? That's why I'm pissed.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-06-2011 at 05:54 PM.
10-06-2011, 05:56 PM
#17
The pulley is always spinning, regardless whether or not the clutch engages the compressor. You know that, right?
Last edited by Rochester; 10-06-2011 at 06:01 PM.
10-08-2011, 01:56 AM
#21
The defrost system uses the a/c compressor to dry the air used to defrost the windshield. It may not be that beneficial in humid climates; however, it is vital in dry climates. I've actually had the fogging get worse when I ran a defrost system in Colorado without a functioning a/c system.
10-08-2011, 09:14 AM
#22
The a/c compressor should not run when the temperature is below 35 degrees, regardless of what you set the dash controls to. If your compressor runs below the freezing temperature, you have a problem that needs to be fixed.
10-08-2011, 10:35 AM
#23
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Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 497
The defrost system uses the a/c compressor to dry the air used to defrost the windshield. It may not be that beneficial in humid climates; however, it is vital in dry climates. I've actually had the fogging get worse when I ran a defrost system in Colorado without a functioning a/c system.
10-08-2011, 01:34 PM
#24
That seems backwords. The more humidity, the more need for the AC to take the moisture out of the air.
10-08-2011, 04:57 PM
#25
I believe it's due to a humidity imbalance. It seems like there is extra humidity in the system without the dryer. In a more humid climate, I think the air is similar in humidity levels.
10-08-2011, 05:50 PM
#26
When was the last time you changed the internal cabin air filter, excessive fogging of the windshield is also cause by a very dirt cabin filter as the internal air is not moving correctly through the system.
10-08-2011, 05:54 PM
#27
Wasn't this a thread about changing the pulley on the A/C? How's that going?
10-09-2011, 06:39 AM
#28
Automotive 101. The reason the A/C Compressor runs in defrost mode is twofold. 1) Dehumidify the interior air, especially during recirculation mode. 2) Prevents A/C compressor seizure/seal failure due to lack of lubrication. When sitting idle for long cold periods the lubricant in bearings/seals/etc drys out. The lubricant is in the coolant. No compressor actuation=no coolant flow=no lubrication.
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