00Lightsout

blah blah blah...take a look at my problem in the video below!
http://youtu.be/MCKfL72sFVo?hd=1

2000 SE, automatic

NO CODES
I have:
new throttle body gasket(installed 2 weeks ago)
the IACV is a couple years old from Autozone
newer MAF
newer Coil Packs
newer plugs
engine grounding kit
electronic motor mounts replaced with ES manual mounts

the last code I saw was 1.5 years ago for the rear bank cat below threshold....it eventually went away :-/

I don't know how to get the timing back to 15*, or why the RPM's are soooooo baaaaad. My idle is at 900-1100 for idle, HORRIBLE!! I tried the relearn TPS trick 3 times and it did nothing. My gas mileage is the worst ever, and I feel a power loss. My exhaust smells RICH when the motor is cold. I'm sure I could use new cats, no prob there...but I don't see how that would relate to the RPM's being all over, and the RPM Gap.

holy crap this is frustrating. I've spent weeeeeeeks and weeks toying with this SE, and need it back on the road asap!!

Thanks everyone!!!!!!!!!

getflushed

mine does the same thing!!!!! well the sticking bouncing rpm at the exact same rpm range!!!! i suspected tps.... adjusted and tested.. same issue.. mine is.far more.worse when the motor is cold.... i have done almost everything minus throwing a new.tps at it plz plz plz let me know if.u.discover ur.issue im at work and typing quick sorry if.its messy [/B]

00Lightsout

BUMP..idea's anyone?????

getflushed

well.... thanks... put a new tps in and bam its made a huuuuuge difference all round... each gear feels more peppy,shifting is perect , no lag.. no uncomfortable 2nd to 3rd mooshy shift.. perfect starts it smooth takeoffs.... amazing ... hopefully when i wake up it drives the same....cuz ive been trying to fix this issue for a long time.....

getflushed

mine had nothing to do with the top plug on the tps it was all the bottom (open closed circut) unplug it.. if it runs better... bam!

00Lightsout

thanks getflushed, glad to hear it fixed your problem...I will try a new TPS asap!

00Lightsout

TPS closed throttle: .70K ohms
TPS open throttle: 3.5K ohms

anyone know what is should be from the factory?

00Lightsout

one thread says .5K ohms - 4.0k ohms. if this is the case my TPS has too narrow of a range from Closed to WOT. I will be pulling off the TB installing a new TPS, Clean the already newer IACV, clean all wiring connections, reinstall then SMOG.

Another indication of the TPS is the fuel mapping is off b/c it dumps so much fuel in that I can smell the unburned gas coming out of the exhaust!

crossing my fingers & saying a prayer that this works

00Lightsout

HELP HELP HELP!!!!!!!!

well...
*I replaced and adjusted the TPS(.6K ohms @ closed, 4.1k ohms @ wot)
*cleaned the IACV(rather dirty for a newer part)
*MAF(didn't need cleaning but did it anyways)...
The idle has smoothed out a little, and only drops down to around 750 once it's fully warmed up. I still get the RPM jumps from 1600-1700 and the gap of RPMS between 1700 & 3200. There is no smooth RPM's between 1700 & 3200. The RPM's will NOT hold above 1700 an any point even with my foot on the accelerator or my hand holding the throttle open. It jumps from 1700 to 3200 or higher, holds the RPM's for 1 second, then drops back down to jumping at 1600-1700.

I am going to try the IDLE RELEARN process AGAIN...maybe this will set the ECU's memory of the TPS back to relearn...that is if the ECU memorizes the TPS responses.

What is the vacuum line on the top of the throttle body that has the small metal rod resting on the throttle cable bracket???? I pulled the rod downwards to see the engine responses and it runs exactly like the jumping I am getting between 1600-1700...maybe this vacuum line needs replacing? When I accelerate the little rod pops out then goes right back up inside.

00Lightsout

INPUT?

I took it for a drive around the block in "D" it shifts fine with a little bit of a jump from first to second. When I keep the automatic shifter in "1st" and get it to the 1600-1700 mark the car jerks and jumps around like a pony :/ I'm beginning to think that the car needs a new flywheel sensor...you know the sensor that is bolted in near the radiator that is sandwiched between the transmission and the engine block. Also, I believe that my transmission needs a new output shaft o-ring to maintain proper pressure inside the torque converter during shifting.

I don't believe it is ECU related, but would like to pull the ECU anyways to check everything.

At least the car is smog ready with the new TPS, and it can be driven...it's just needs a tweek to get it back to perfection. a full R&R of the engine & trans is in order and finally finishing my engine lift upgrade.

if you have any insight whatsoever, please share...I haven't gotten many posts with advice on what else to check.

video coming today/tomorrow of the TB reaction to the new TPS, Cleaned IACV, Cleaned MAF & Cleaned IAS.

00Lightsout

passed smog just fine!! No need for new cats...tailpipe burns super clean. The last shop I took it to was not a smog only station :/ suckers tried to pull my hood over my eyes and tell me I needed new cats...NOT!!!

Still have the jerking during the 1-2 shift. Is the above mentioned sensor the only sensor that measures transmission performance, or are there others that I should test???? anybody???

getflushed

Im pretty sure a few sensors have affects trans shifts mainly the revolutionary speed sensor to determine motor to trans power distrubution which would have a huge role in shift points and how the vehicle shifts

A-BOY

hi



i got question my electronic motor mounts need to be replaced how did you do that
i ahave 2k max like you

00Lightsout

00Lightsout

I will take the RSS out, and test it. also...this BAD SHIFTING started after the first attempt at the TPS relearn process...anyone know if they are related?

scottpic

This is SO frustrating!
I found this video... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCKfL72sFVo

This shows the exact problem my car has.

I installed a new TPS and set the clearance by the book.
The throttle body is clean.
The coils read good.
The MAF reads good.
No engine codes.

WHY is the RPM jumping from 1600 to 2300, EVEN if you feather the throttle SO slightly, as soon as you get it to 1600 it shoots up.
Then will bounce 1600 - 2000.

I would greatly appreciate help here!
Thanks.

00Lightsout

that is my video & YouTube channel

cdoublejj

i noticed your car is idling too high as well. mine has managed to defy laws of physics.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...le-2001-a.html

How ever mine runs almost perfectly except for the high idle and occasion hard shift. I have no solid reasoning to suspect my TPS unlike you.