No spark in cylinder 4
#41
Here is a link to a TSB on your car.
https://docs.google.com/document/pub...Gey9nESrJwgUiU
Check the harness where it says.
https://docs.google.com/document/pub...Gey9nESrJwgUiU
Check the harness where it says.
#42
Never have liked that All Data format. Here is another view:
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-076b.pdf
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB01-076b.pdf
#43
I have to admit that I am at a loss to figure this out. If you checked the continuity of the wire between the ECU and the coil and found it to be good, why would you want to run a replacement wire?
But more to the point, you need to figure out if the coil is getting the signal to fire. And for that matter, is the fuel injector getting its signal? Theoritically you need an oscilloscope for this, but maybe you can see the reading on a voltmeter jumping around.
But more to the point, you need to figure out if the coil is getting the signal to fire. And for that matter, is the fuel injector getting its signal? Theoritically you need an oscilloscope for this, but maybe you can see the reading on a voltmeter jumping around.
#44
Running new wire is the only way to know for sure.
I repaired a light socket and had continuity with near zero resistance, but almost no power crossed it. I no longer trust those tests haha.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 05-10-2012 at 09:00 PM.
#45
Continuity doesn't mean anything, necessarily. That only means there's low enough resistance for a small amount of power to travel. Even measuring the actual resistance may not tell you jack.
Running new wire is the only way to know for sure.
I repaired a light socket and had continuity with near zero resistance, but almost no power crossed it. I no longer trust those tests haha.
Running new wire is the only way to know for sure.
I repaired a light socket and had continuity with near zero resistance, but almost no power crossed it. I no longer trust those tests haha.
#46
Continuity can also be back feed through the harness. Check every wire in that bundle of harness the tsb talks about. Cause even small cracks or tears can cause a short or open to ground which can make seem like there is continuity, other than that find a known good ecm and test it.
#47
Just talked to my master tech here at my nissan shop and he says the only way you can fix that code is by replace the factory plugs and factory coils. He stressed to replace them all otherwise its just gonna jump from cylinder to cylinder. I'm sorry that its the coils of all things. But he is a 10 year vet here and I trust his word, you should too. Good luck.
#48
Just talked to my master tech here at my nissan shop and he says the only way you can fix that code is by replace the factory plugs and factory coils. He stressed to replace them all otherwise its just gonna jump from cylinder to cylinder. I'm sorry that its the coils of all things. But he is a 10 year vet here and I trust his word, you should too. Good luck.
Continuity can also be back feed through the harness. Check every wire in that bundle of harness the tsb talks about. Cause even small cracks or tears can cause a short or open to ground which can make seem like there is continuity, other than that find a known good ecm and test it.
#49
Just talked to my master tech here at my nissan shop and he says the only way you can fix that code is by replace the factory plugs and factory coils. He stressed to replace them all otherwise its just gonna jump from cylinder to cylinder. I'm sorry that its the coils of all things. But he is a 10 year vet here and I trust his word, you should too. Good luck.
#50
Tested coils resistance dont work in this case. the coil is good but the transistor in the coil that receive the signal is bad. So your coils is good and bad at the same time.
#51
#52
Like I said it is but its not, it is the transistor is bad in it but replacing them will only fix the p1320 code. For the misfire code check your #4 injector with a know good one. I have a feeling that might be your problem. Maxima injectors have always been know to foul up. Sorry for the confusion early if i didn't make myself clear. And sorry for the late reply been very busy.
#53
Like I said it is but its not, it is the transistor is bad in it but replacing them will only fix the p1320 code. For the misfire code check your #4 injector with a know good one. I have a feeling that might be your problem. Maxima injectors have always been know to foul up. Sorry for the confusion early if i didn't make myself clear. And sorry for the late reply been very busy.
#54
You can't rely on OHM reading from an injector cuz a bad one will still test good sometimes. If the new ECU don't fix it your misfire and the coil is good than its your injector. If you need a injector you can get one off any 99-01 Maxima(you might be able to get one off a older one but most 4th and 5th gens should have the same injectors but you should verify first).
#55
KillaKarebear - I think what he's saying is that if he removes the #4 coil (which you say probably has a bad transistor) and swaps that coil with the one from, say, #2, he still gets the same cylinder 4 misfire, which tells him (and me) that it doesn't have to do with the coils, unless multiple are bad, but, in that case, it should cause a P0300 random/multiple misfire and/or multiple cylinder misfire codes (in the scenario described P0302, P0304).
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
#56
KillaKarebear - I think what he's saying is that if he removes the #4 coil (which you say probably has a bad transistor) and swaps that coil with the one from, say, #2, he still gets the same cylinder 4 misfire, which tells him (and me) that it doesn't have to do with the coils, unless multiple are bad, but, in that case, it should cause a P0300 random/multiple misfire and/or multiple cylinder misfire codes (in the scenario described P0302, P0304).
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
Thank for the clarification Nathan!
#57
No worries mate. Though, I do recommend the injector test first since it's easier. As a matter of fact, it may be that the injector is operating properly but is clogged. Might be easier to do, and will definitely be the cheaper fix if that's what it ends up being. Keep us posted.
-Nathan
-Nathan
#58
KillaKarebear - I think what he's saying is that if he removes the #4 coil (which you say probably has a bad transistor) and swaps that coil with the one from, say, #2, he still gets the same cylinder 4 misfire, which tells him (and me) that it doesn't have to do with the coils, unless multiple are bad, but, in that case, it should cause a P0300 random/multiple misfire and/or multiple cylinder misfire codes (in the scenario described P0302, P0304).
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
I think what we're looking at here is an injector issue on number 4, a harness issue, or a troubled ECM. I think the OP is on the right track.
I would pull the rail and make sure that all the injectors are firing like they should. Get a container big enough to catch any and all fuel, pull the rail off with the injectors still connected, disconnect all the coils, and crank the engine. If you can use separate containers for each of the injectors that would be best. Otherwise, this is a two man operation, as one of you will have to watch the injectors to make sure each one fires. That will tell you pretty clearly if #4's injector is really spraying fuel or not. Just a thought.
-Nathan
#59
Swapping the coil is only for the misfire code. Like a I said before the only known way to fix the p1320 code is to replace all the coils unless its the ECU. But if he has changed them with the daily driver than i would think its the ECU too. But as far as the misfire goes I still think it's an injector. It's really the only component left. I also agree with Nathan on how to find the injector that is acting up(if any at all). I would use Gatorade bottles on each injector. I would also compare it to the other injectors and watch on the spray pattern on make sure they all act the same.
-Nathan
#62
#63
-Nathan
#64
Not really. I fixed it for cheap just took a while. Put all parts I pulled out back on the car including ECU for 30 mins. Now I need to take the car in for detail.
#65
If your plugs are new, coils too, continuity checks fine on the wires and your injectors are good, then chances are your ECU is gone. Look on ebay. They got everything on there.
#67
#69
Double check everything after you swapped the ECU. I still had the same issue after the swap in turned out I forgot a bad coil in that cylinder after so much swapping. Check plug, coil, signal wire and injector before you get new harness.
#70
#71
#72
I have a 96 Nissan Maxima with the exact same problem no spark on cylinder 4 to the coil somebody's gotta help us
#73
I had to replace all the coil connectors on my engine harness. heat and plastic aren't a good combo.
not the most ideal wiring method but it hasn't given me any issues so far and it has been at least a year...
not the most ideal wiring method but it hasn't given me any issues so far and it has been at least a year...
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