Are both front shocks the same?
#1
Are both front shocks the same?
So I just replaced all 4 shocks(rears were a PITA - way more so than the fronts). After I was done battling with the rears I did the fronts, and wasn't paying attention to which shock I grabbed. Does it really matter if I installed the "wrong" shock on the wrong side? I'm just assuming thAt one is slightly stiffer to compensate for the fact that the engine is on one side? Or should I pull them out and put them on the right sides if they are incorrect?
#4
The only major difference is the abs and Brake line clip locations.
But yes, put them in the right spots, because you don't want to have a problem with that.
It sucks that you messed up, it happens. Now fix it.
But yes, put them in the right spots, because you don't want to have a problem with that.
It sucks that you messed up, it happens. Now fix it.
#5
#7
I thought this for a second too, but no, when you put the left side on the Right, you turn it 180* to accomodate, which puts the spring seat in the same position no matter what.
#9
Honestly, if they fit, there's not any crazy reason you CANT do it. But to do it PROPERLY (mismatch) you need to cut off and re-weld the abs/brake line brackets in the right location.
I can't think of a situation where it would make sense to do it though.
I can't think of a situation where it would make sense to do it though.
#15
#17
Took the wheels off and looked, they are in fact on the correct sides (ABS and Brake clips did line up). 170k on the fronts and they still had some life left in them(I'm 2nd owner - previous owner did all maintenance at dealership, Carfax showed no suspension work, and the shocks I pulled off were OEM). Not too shabby, Nissan.
AznRyan - its an easy mistake to make. If you were running on 3 hours of sleep, I guarantee you could have made the same mistake.
One oddity I noticed when putting them back on - the passenger side strut mount didn't want to line up properly(it was kinda of hard to get it off as well). I had to grind out a little bit from each of the holes (we are talking a VERY little bit, nothing I'm worried about from a structural perspective) in order to actually install the top bolts. Has anyone else experienced this? This is the side I hit with a pothole HARD a little over a year ago and am wondering if I warped something.
At any rate, installation was successful. Now I just need some free time to tackle the ball joints.
AznRyan - its an easy mistake to make. If you were running on 3 hours of sleep, I guarantee you could have made the same mistake.
One oddity I noticed when putting them back on - the passenger side strut mount didn't want to line up properly(it was kinda of hard to get it off as well). I had to grind out a little bit from each of the holes (we are talking a VERY little bit, nothing I'm worried about from a structural perspective) in order to actually install the top bolts. Has anyone else experienced this? This is the side I hit with a pothole HARD a little over a year ago and am wondering if I warped something.
At any rate, installation was successful. Now I just need some free time to tackle the ball joints.
#18
Again, easy mistake to make - especially if you do the rears first which are identical to each other.
#22
AznRyan - no worries, I can't say I've never done the same
So after replacing all 4 struts, I am still having some suspension issues. Apparently hitting that pothole did more damage than just popping a tire. I still have a clunk when hitting some bumps, and the suspension feels "wobbly". So looks like I have to replace both control arms (one might be bent - and I found them as a set for $95 shipped, so that way I also get new balljoints for less hassle), and a strut mount on the right side(only $22 shipped - I think it was hard to get back in the car because it was bent!)
I jacked the car up and did NOT feel any wobble in the tires in the 6-12 or 3-9 positions. Does that mean my tie rods are likely OK? They are cheap enough to replace, but sounds like they are a big PITA.
Luckily I have a 6 month warranty on my alignment, so the additional alignments shouldn't cost anything (this go around, and then again if I need to replace tie rods)
So after replacing all 4 struts, I am still having some suspension issues. Apparently hitting that pothole did more damage than just popping a tire. I still have a clunk when hitting some bumps, and the suspension feels "wobbly". So looks like I have to replace both control arms (one might be bent - and I found them as a set for $95 shipped, so that way I also get new balljoints for less hassle), and a strut mount on the right side(only $22 shipped - I think it was hard to get back in the car because it was bent!)
I jacked the car up and did NOT feel any wobble in the tires in the 6-12 or 3-9 positions. Does that mean my tie rods are likely OK? They are cheap enough to replace, but sounds like they are a big PITA.
Luckily I have a 6 month warranty on my alignment, so the additional alignments shouldn't cost anything (this go around, and then again if I need to replace tie rods)
#25
#26
The plan is to replace the CAs (so that I get new balljoints) and the strut mount (which I KNOW is bent), and see how things go, if I still have issues, then I will replace the tie rods (do I need to do both sides, or can I just do the one that is having issues?).
#27
#28
Yeah, it is a marked difference. However, they weren't as terrible as I have seen in other cars with 100k less mileage. I am VERY impressed with the OEM strut quality. I have heard that they are actually re-branded KYBs.
Once I get the rest of the parts on, she should handle like new. And the best part is, for basically a complete suspension overhaul, it still cost me less than 1 or 2 months of car payments if I bought it new
Once I get the rest of the parts on, she should handle like new. And the best part is, for basically a complete suspension overhaul, it still cost me less than 1 or 2 months of car payments if I bought it new
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