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Old 07-25-2012, 05:03 PM   #1
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Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator?

Question:

1. If fuel is present in the vacuum hose of the FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator), does this indicate a bad FPR?

2. Can someone confirm that the vacuum hose is the small hose on top of the FPR and the fuel hose is the larger hose on the bottom of the FPR?

3. Has anyone used the $30 EBAY adjustable FPR? How to hook it up and if it's worth it vs OE FPR $70.

When I disconnected the smaller hose on top of the FPR, fuel came out. I'm thinking this may be the culprit of the starting issue on my car that I've been troubleshooting for a while now.
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Old 07-25-2012, 06:58 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_Maxima_SE View Post
Question:

1. If fuel is present in the vacuum hose of the FPR(Fuel Pressure Regulator), does this indicate a bad FPR?

Correct!

2. Can someone confirm that the vacuum hose is the small hose on top of the FPR and the fuel hose is the larger hose on the bottom of the FPR?

Correct! Smaller hose is vacuum hose.

3. Has anyone used the $30 EBAY adjustable FPR? How to hook it up and if it's worth it vs OE FPR $70.

Have not tried ebay but replaced with OEM and it starts up even faster.

When I disconnected the smaller hose on top of the FPR, fuel came out. I'm thinking this may be the culprit of the starting issue on my car that I've been troubleshooting for a while now.
FPR is definitely culprit if it is leaking fuel in vacuum line. The FPR keeps the pressure in the rail. FPR is failing once fuel is in that vacuum line.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:09 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini Boom View Post
FPR is definitely culprit if it is leaking fuel in vacuum line. The FPR keeps the pre
sure in the rail. FPR is failing once fuel is in that vacuum line.
Thanks Trini Boom! I'll be ordering an OE FPR soon! Will give an update once I change it out!
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Old 07-31-2012, 09:39 PM   #4
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Today I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Still no change. I'm still having trouble starting the car. I would have to step on the gas pedal a few times, not all the way though before it'll start. I checked the vacuum hose on the new fuel pressure regulator and old fuel pressure damper and they both have fuel in them!!! I suspect fuel in the vacuum line is why I have to step on the gas pedal to get it to start?

I'm stomped once again. Could my problem be a bad fuel pressure damper?
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Old 08-01-2012, 01:38 PM   #5
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Makes no sense to me why fuel is still in there. Disconnec the vacuum hose and have someone turn the key to ON and see if it is still leaking fuel. Where did you get the FPR? Also when you start the car from cold in the morning, where does the RPM needle go to? Number reading here...
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Old 08-02-2012, 11:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trini Boom View Post
Makes no sense to me why fuel is still in there. Disconnec the vacuum hose and have someone turn the key to ON and see if it is still leaking fuel. Where did you get the FPR? Also when you start the car from cold in the morning, where does the RPM needle go to? Number reading here...
It's a Beck Arley OE replacement FPR from www.rockauto.com. When starting, RPM goes up between 1100-1400 then it will either drop down to 500 then back to 1000 or just dip down to 0. Earlier today I took off the throttle body for inspection. There was a puddle of fuel around the EGR tube. How this could happen?! I also disconnected the vacuum line from the FPR damper it had fuel in it as well...
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:02 AM   #7
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Not trying to sound smartarse or anything -- but are you sure that's not still fuel in there from before?
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Old 08-03-2012, 09:53 PM   #8
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Cam sensor or Crank sensor!
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:07 AM   #9
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Here are the results checking for fuel in the vacuum line again for the FPR and the FPR Damper:

FPR - Not a lot but very small droplets of fuel comes out.

FPR Damper - Fuel just keeps coming out.

I'll try and record a video of this for you guys later.
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMax03 View Post
Cam sensor or Crank sensor!
The cam sensor resistance checked out good. I replaced one of the crank sensor (REF, the one by the crank pulley) already. A fellow org. member said the resistance of the crank sensor should change if a magnetic item was by it. The front crank sensor showed no change of resistance when I tested it with my multimeter. I will be replacing that one soon.

I don't see how the Cam or Crank sensors have anything to do with fuel in the vacuum line. Only starting issues...
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Old 08-07-2012, 05:31 AM   #11
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Here is the youtube link to my video showing the problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myeMe...ature=youtu.be
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Old 08-07-2012, 07:16 AM   #12
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I could be wrong but I do not think you should have fuel coming out of the fuel damper vacuum line(like at all and yours is consistent). You may want to check the other vacuum line as well because I noticed one drip off the FPR when you first tried to start the car. So you may still have fuel in that vacuum line as well(did it cut off when you plugged this line back in or did someone shut off the car?). I'd wait for others to confirm you need a new fuel damper but I can't confirm of deny its your starting issue.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:27 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_Maxima_SE View Post
The cam sensor resistance checked out good. I replaced one of the crank sensor (REF, the one by the crank pulley) already. A fellow org. member said the resistance of the crank sensor should change if a magnetic item was by it. The front crank sensor showed no change of resistance when I tested it with my multimeter. I will be replacing that one soon.

I don't see how the Cam or Crank sensors have anything to do with fuel in the vacuum line. Only starting issues...
That is not true- on 2k model those sensors are just spool of wire which doesn't change 'resistance' when you place magnet nearby but it will generate small voltage fluctuation if you move magnet in its proximity which probably can be registered by multimeter in mV range. The key element here is moving magnet; just placing it next to sensor won't generate anything after initial spike.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:10 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigLou55 View Post
I could be wrong but I do not think you should have fuel coming out of the fuel damper vacuum line(like at all and yours is consistent). You may want to check the other vacuum line as well because I noticed one drip off the FPR when you first tried to start the car. So you may still have fuel in that vacuum line as well(did it cut off when you plugged this line back in or did someone shut off the car?). I'd wait for others to confirm you need a new fuel damper but I can't confirm of deny its your starting issue.
The car did shut off when I plugged the vacuum line back into the FPR. Does this mean fuel is still present in the vacuum line? I was using my remote starter to start the car.
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:22 AM   #15
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Unfortunately you have another defective unit bud. Your beck/arney regulator needs to get returned.

I would buy an OEM unit if it were me. If ANY fuel ever comes out then your diaphragm is compromised period. It can also be leaking the other way and bypassing too much fuel in back to the return. The quick test are some vise grips gently squeezing the return line to falsely "limit" the return fuel and bumping up pressure. If that helps your starting condition then you have your answer - you could have it both ways.


When you plug the vacuum line back in (at idle) it will cause a lean out. The vaccum the engine produces at idle keeps your pressure lower as the diaphragm is controlled directly by that vacuum line (which should be completely cleaned/cleared out before the next regulator goes in). I'm not sure if you're having any other associated issues with your ride, but good job coming to the regulator for your hard start. If it leaks there it is bad, bummer you got a new defective part but it does happen - and often times confuses folks that trust in a new part simply because it is new.

I would get an OEM unit, clean out all the fuel you can and then report back. Any trace amounts of fuel in the intake manifold will evaporate and/or burn out soon enough.

Last edited by noahrexion; 08-08-2012 at 08:25 AM..
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Old 08-08-2012, 08:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_Maxima_SE View Post
The car did shut off when I plugged the vacuum line back into the FPR. Does this mean fuel is still present in the vacuum line? I was using my remote starter to start the car.
its a large chance it is clogged, because before you hooked up that vacuum line it was running fine.
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noahrexion View Post
Unfortunately you have another defective unit bud. Your beck/arney regulator needs to get returned.

I would buy an OEM unit if it were me. If ANY fuel ever comes out then your diaphragm is compromised period. It can also be leaking the other way and bypassing too much fuel in back to the return. The quick test are some vise grips gently squeezing the return line to falsely "limit" the return fuel and bumping up pressure. If that helps your starting condition then you have your answer - you could have it both ways.


When you plug the vacuum line back in (at idle) it will cause a lean out. The vaccum the engine produces at idle keeps your pressure lower as the diaphragm is controlled directly by that vacuum line (which should be completely cleaned/cleared out before the next regulator goes in). I'm not sure if you're having any other associated issues with your ride, but good job coming to the regulator for your hard start. If it leaks there it is bad, bummer you got a new defective part but it does happen - and often times confuses folks that trust in a new part simply because it is new.

I would get an OEM unit, clean out all the fuel you can and then report back. Any trace amounts of fuel in the intake manifold will evaporate and/or burn out soon enough.
What about the Fuel Pressure Damper? I checked the vacuum line of the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Pressure Damper. They both connect to the same t-fitting. If they share the same vacuum source, I'm thinking the Fuel Pressure Regulator is not faulty since when the car is running, no fuel comes out of it. However, the Fuel Pressure Damper is at fault because when the engine is running, fuel just keeps coming out. Does this make sense???
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:50 AM   #18
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Yes of course, if fuel is coming out (of either) of the vaccum port it is bad, needs replacing .

The damper actually helps the regulator maintain (constant/smooth) pressure by damping fuel pump/injector pulses - they work in unison but almost in an identical way. Both have that vacuum operated diaphram atop that fuel should never be leaking past.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:41 PM   #19
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Well, what da heck happened? LOL - I have a similar problem with my mom's Maxima that I need to resolve. Did you replace both parts and it started working? If not, what was the fix? PLEASE POST BACK SOON!!

FYI - I have posted a thread over here:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maxim...html#post81719 ... if you'd like to chime in.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:11 PM   #20
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Today I just received and installed the new pressure regulator damper. The car starts right up! Troubleshooting this problem took me longer than I expected LOL.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:52 PM   #21
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Summary

Here's the summary of my thread:

My problem: The Maxima has a hard time starting. In most cases, I would have to step on the gas at the same time when starting the ignition for it to run. Once it started running, I have to keep the rpm constant at 1K-1.5K RPM for 2-5 seconds before it has a stable idle. There is no performance loss after the car has successfully started.

How to troubleshoot:
- This requires two people and one if you have remote start. Disconnect the Vacuum line of the Fuel Pressure Regulator AND Fuel Pressure Damper and check for fuel. There should be NO fuel present in the Vacuum lines or Vacuum port of the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Pressure Damper.
- Total Diagnostic time: 5-10 minutes.
- Difficulty: EASY

The solution:
- A New O.E. Fuel Pressure Regulator ($70-$120 on EBAY)
- A New O.E. Fuel Pressure Damper ($115-$150 on EBAY)

** Anyone with basic mechanical skills should be able to replace these parts in 2-4 hours. It's VERY IMPORTANT when dealing anything fuel related on the car to relieve all the fuel pressure out by removing the 15 AMP Fuel Pump fuse in the fuse box under the dash of the driver side, removing the fuel cap, and starting the car until it can't start anymore. **

Tools needed for this job:
- 10mm socket with ratchet
- Socket extension
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pliers

The Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper is fairly easy to replace.
1. Remove Air Intake.
2. For the Fuel Pressure Regulator, remove the two 10mm bolts on it. Use pliers to move the clamp down on fuel hose. Then CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the the fuel hose and vacuum hose on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
3. For the Fuel Pressure Damper, there are a total of 5 10mm bolts you have to remove. Two on the Damper, one on the bracket in the middle of the damper hose, and two at the end of the damper hose. Use pliers to move the clamp down on fuel hose. Then CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the the fuel hose and vacuum hose on the Fuel Pressure

**Make sure there is an O-Ring on the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper or else Fuel will be everywhere when you attempt to start the car**

I hope this thread is helpful to anyone who is having similar problems on their Maximas. GODSPEED
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:58 PM   #22
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Great summary. Stickie worthy!
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Old 08-29-2012, 06:01 AM   #23
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glad you found and corrected your issue...happy starting!
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:12 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000_Maxima_SE View Post
Here's the summary of my thread:

My problem: The Maxima has a hard time starting. In most cases, I would have to step on the gas at the same time when starting the ignition for it to run. Once it started running, I have to keep the rpm constant at 1K-1.5K RPM for 2-5 seconds before it has a stable idle. There is no performance loss after the car has successfully started.

How to troubleshoot:
- This requires two people and one if you have remote start. Disconnect the Vacuum line of the Fuel Pressure Regulator AND Fuel Pressure Damper and check for fuel. There should be NO fuel present in the Vacuum lines or Vacuum port of the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Fuel Pressure Damper.
- Total Diagnostic time: 5-10 minutes.
- Difficulty: EASY

The solution:
- A New O.E. Fuel Pressure Regulator ($70-$120 on EBAY)
- A New O.E. Fuel Pressure Damper ($115-$150 on EBAY)

** Anyone with basic mechanical skills should be able to replace these parts in 2-4 hours. It's VERY IMPORTANT when dealing anything fuel related on the car to relieve all the fuel pressure out by removing the 15 AMP Fuel Pump fuse in the fuse box under the dash of the driver side, removing the fuel cap, and starting the car until it can't start anymore. **

Tools needed for this job:
- 10mm socket with ratchet
- Socket extension
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pliers

The Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper is fairly easy to replace.
1. Remove Air Intake.
2. For the Fuel Pressure Regulator, remove the two 10mm bolts on it. Use pliers to move the clamp down on fuel hose. Then CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the the fuel hose and vacuum hose on the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
3. For the Fuel Pressure Damper, there are a total of 5 10mm bolts you have to remove. Two on the Damper, one on the bracket in the middle of the damper hose, and two at the end of the damper hose. Use pliers to move the clamp down on fuel hose. Then CAREFULLY use a flathead screwdriver to pry off the the fuel hose and vacuum hose on the Fuel Pressure

**Make sure there is an O-Ring on the Fuel Pressure Regulator and Damper or else Fuel will be everywhere when you attempt to start the car**

I hope this thread is helpful to anyone who is having similar problems on their Maximas. GODSPEED
Thank you very much for a really nice summery. I am having the similar problem for a long time it will help me a lot. Just one question. How to diagnose if either the Fuel pressure regulator or Fuel damper is bad not both. Please let me know guys. I really appreciate everybodys help.
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:08 PM   #25
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great job summarizing it dude!
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Old 12-22-2012, 09:20 PM   #26
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Hi One more question is there a fuel pressure damper in 4th gen nissan maxima ??? I have a 1998 and I do not find a fuel pressure damper. I also tried to refer to my Haynes manual and it looks likes in 4th gen we do not have one can any one confirm me.

Thanks a lot
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:15 PM   #27
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Sorry to dredge this one up but I have a question concerning this and did not want to start another hard start thread. I have been having an extending cranking issue for the past few weeks. I just pulled my vac lines to troubleshoot and there is fuel pouring out of the fuel damper. I am confident this is the cause to my extended cranking BUT I have another issue and would like some opinions as to whether it is related or not.

In addition to extended cranking I'm also have a bad misfire that is more present at lower rpms. If I let it sit at idle it will get progressively worse until it starts to cut out. Could it be that my damper/fpr is so blown that it is causing a dead cylinder condition? Or is it likely I've fouled my plugs by now with the extremely excessive amount of fuel going into the engine? If i pull the vacuum line from the damper with the car off it will have a steady stream of fuel coming out until it empties. I can go check resistances on my CKPS's but I think it would be highly coincidental for one of them to go out in rapid succession after the damper. The misfire came a few days after the extended cranking started.

Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated. Again my apologies for pulling up a year old thread but it seemed most relevant.

Edit: Forgot to mention I put the car on a Snap On Modis Diagnostic tool. Only codes were for multiple cylinder missing and cyl 5 misfire. Replacing that coil pack made no difference. Unplugging the other coil packs made the car run worse.

Last edited by 5th gen dd; 12-11-2013 at 08:10 PM..
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:56 PM   #28
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I'm hoping when you say "fuel damper"you really mean fuel pressure regulator. Because a fuel damper will always have fuel at all Ports. If it is the FPR you are refererring to, I suggest you change it first and see what happens. Fuel pressure that is way off will cause misfires and all kinds of problems.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:56 PM
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