TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Ok, banging this together off the top of my head after a very long day, at 1:15 A.M., don't expect much!

Quickly: This thread is for NO CRANK // NO START issues. I'm only focussing on NO CRANK in this OP. And doing so briefly. I would suggest another thread for "CRANKS BUT WON"T START" issues, because those are more in-depth, and mostly separate issues.

This thread will serve to collaborate as much information as possible. Most of the no-starts are common things, so let's start there.

I would ask any members that have the time (I don't) to dig up a few good No-Start threads that have good information, and I'll post them in the OP for quick-reference.

Likewise anyone with solid diagnosis and info please PM it to me or post it. If you're unsure if it's solid info, please PM me.


Let's get going. If after reading my first scenario you're still unable to fix it, or have a separate issue, then please COPY AND PASTE the layout below, and fill in your Information before posting. This will allow us to help you better, and writing it out may even give you the answer before you post it.

FIRST: Mileage, Transmission Type (Auto/Manual), and YEAR OF CAR. The 2000/2001 and 2002/2003 are different, list all this info.

SECOND: Tell us what your car is doing. You need to be as specific as possible. Any recent work done on the car IS IMPORTANT, think hard about it and re-trace any steps you've taken on the car lately that could be related.

THIRD: Relevent Modifications to the car. ie. Battery Relocate, Aftermarket flywheel, engine swap, Remote car starter, Turbo Timer, push-start button integration, and so on. If you're not sure if it's relevent, just tell us anyways. This is not your "MOD LIST" copied and pasted, just the stuff that matters.

FOURTH: Is your C.E.L/S.E.S./Check Engine Light on? If it is, don't bother posting until you have it scanned and find out what the code is. Post results. If there's no codes, simply put NO CODES here.

EXAMPLE:

FIRST: 2001 Automatic, 100,000 Miles

SECOND: Turn the Key to "ON" position (Just before Cranking). All lights are on nice and bright in the dash. Headlights turned ON they're nice and bright also.
Turn key to START, Single click heard around Steering Column but no cranking, no other noises.
Tried wiggling the key and starting it but it made no difference.
Tried Moving the SHIFT LEVER From PARK to NEUTRAL and starting it, No difference.

THIRD: No known Relevent Mods.

FOURTH: NO CODES

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

1. Grab your $6 Harbour Freight (or whatever) test light. YOU WANT AN INCANDECENT (Normal) TEST LIGHT> > And you should also have a Voltmeter/Multi Meter, these can be had about $10-20 if you buy a cheap one, which will work fine for little stuff like this.



-Locate your Trigger wire to your starter. This is under the Airbox, so get the whole Intake out of the way, easy job. ( PICTURE CREDIT TO DENNISMIK)

Labled "TEST POINT A"




-Once you see the starter on the Driver-side of the engine, you'll see 3 Wires on it. 2 Big wires and one Small one. The small one is the trigger wire. Trace it back fromt he starter about 14" and you'll see a little plug connection, disconnect that. Now put the Ground Clamp of the test light on the Negative terminal (Make sure it's on good, test by probing the Positive side of the battery with the probe end).

Now probe the Disconnected Plug with the Test light. You want to probe the feed side, (Not the disconnected starter side).

Have a friend try to start the car while wiggling the test light probe (to ensure contact).

||
>>TEST LIGHT LIGHTS UP: Reconnect the Plug, now test again at the Starter end where it's soldered on.
||
>>TEST LIGHT LIGHTS UP: Probe The remaining Connections on the starter (big wires) with key in the "ON" position, but NOT CRANKING. You should have power at one but not the other.

>>Now Grab The Voltmeter and probe the Big wire that you just found power on, this should be Battery voltage (Let's say, 12.5 Volts
>> Now Turn the key to Crank (trying to start) and watch that voltage reading at the starter cable, if it stays at 12.5 Volts >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Replace the Starter.

If the Voltage drops off during this test, then you have a bad Cable/Connection, most likely a bad Battery terminal, and you need to investigate the Large Battery/Starter Wiring and Main Grounds/wires.
-----------------
||
>>TEST LIGHT DOES NOT LIGHT UP, Proceed to #2

2. Check Battery Voltage with voltmeter. Should read 11.8V or higher.

3. Check Battery Voltage while a friend has the key in the "START" position (trying to crank it over). If the car isn't actually cranking over, the Voltage SHOULD NOT drop. If it does drop signifigantly, you have a loose/bad connection, OR you have a seized/smoked starter. If either is the case, you'll smell it or physically see it smoking/arking.
This condition should pop the fuse pretty quick if you hold it in 'crank' for more than a couple few seconds.

If Voltage doesn't drop when your buddy tries to crank it Proceed to #4

4. Have the car boosted, see if it does anything. If it makes no difference, you can be somewhat assured that your DIRECT issue (no-start) is NOT due to the battery at this time.

If this makes no difference, proceed to #5

5. "Add a ground" with the booster cables. Clamp one end on the Starter casing (bigger cylindrical part) and the other end on the negative battery terminal. Now try to boost/start the car again. This just ensures that the ground for the starter is sufficient. If the car starts you know it's a main ground issue.

6. Time to check fuses. This can, and probably should, be done as one of the first things. This needs to be done with a test light for accuracy, without removing the Fuses. Probe each side of the fuse, if one doesn't have power on one side, remove it and inspect it, it's probably blown.

Now that you know you have power, your fuses are good, your battery is good, the main connections are good, etc, and you still have NO CRANK//NO START, you need to track down the smaller portion of the starting circuit. This includes things like PARK/NEUTRAL switch, CLUTCH SWITCH, IGNITION SWITCH, and so on.

My head is kind of spun right now on this, I'll read over it tomorrow and revise/change as necessary. I don't have much info on the smaller component diagnosis (clutch switch/p/neutral switch), so I'm not getting into that right now. If that's where the above troubleshooting has left you, then please post your issue!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Here is a photo of the starter in my 2000 Maxima.

Also, here is a link to the photo album that contains this photo and others. Some show airbox removal and some have notations.

http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?albumid=7157



Test Point A - Trigger wire from ignition switch via relays.
Test Point B - 12 volts to starter motor when the solenoid is energized.
Test Point C - Covered by rubber boot. Cable from battery... better be 12 volts.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

^^Perfect!!!

The link shows beautiful pics with labling to assist with Air Intake Removal. No further description/pics of that process needed, IMO!

tophersmadmax

I have gone thru 2 starters so far and I would say it is the starter without a doubt. PITA to get in and out as the back bolt will need swivel and extensions galore to loosen and tighten. Make sure you get one with lifetime warranty as my first one lasted 8 months, but was replaced for free. Good luck!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Smh. This is why you can't have nice things

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

No offense, guy, but you need to re-read what this thread is all about.

mcintosh420

well im new to this site so bare with me...
i pulled into a gas station about 6 months ago and shut the car off came back out and it cranked a bit but very slowly wouldnt start. i pushed it away from the pumps popped the hood tightened up my battery connections and agian cranked very slowly but it caught and started up drove my girlfriend back to work and then drove home shut it off. havent been able to get it to crank since.

its a 2000 SE 268k automatic
battery is good not even 6 months old
ive replaced the starter since it died that day(no change)
ive replaced the ignition switch fuses (under hood and in dash)
i have power dash lights up bright
and i can jump the starter with a screwdriver and get the car to fire up when i get in and try to give it gas it dies off like the fuel pump isnt running. which leads me to think ignition switch which i have ordered and ill pick up and install in the morning. if that doesnt work what is left?

and also i love my maxima's this happened 6 months ago ive since bought a 2nd maxima which runs great. so anything quick and easy to pull off my running one is right there for testing id like to get it running to replace my girlfriends junk grand am lols :P

mcintosh420

now im out of ideas. hoping someone else can give me a couple to try.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

1) If it cranks = starter good

2) If it doesn't fire up = no fuel or no spark

3) If no fuel pressure = check fuel pump

mcintosh420

it wont crank unless i jump the power to the signal wire on the starter will not crank with the key at all. i think i got it figured out though the starter end of the signal wire isnt getting power. but it has power from the feed end. so im assuming the starter is defective out of the box. i went and had them order me a replacement. picking it up tommorrow and crossing my fingers that will fix the issue

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Yup

big-daddy-j-dawg

Cam position or crank position sensor? Happened to me once. Just a thought.

mcintosh420

im kinda afraid of that...sounds expensive

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

Pretty sure the crank/cam sensors won't make the starter not crank.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

PLEASE re-read the First post in this thread. I took the time to write it out to HELP you, if you skip stuff, you are only HURTING YOURSELF.

For instance:

^^^ DO that. And then we'll go over it! It sounds like you're on the right track, but please help keep this thread informative and helpful to others by FOLLOWING THE SYSTEM that's been layed out.

mcintosh420

FIRST: Mileage 168k, Transmission Type (Auto), and YEAR OF CAR. 2000 model GXE

SECOND: turn the key and a single click from what sounds like the glove box and under the drivers side dash. no dim lights when attempting to start fuel pump seems to be on. same results when attempting to boost.security light is flashing not solid.

THIRD: 100% stock no fun i know lol

FOURTH: it throws an EVAP line code (which has been there since i bought the car) but no new codes since it stopped starting

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Did you follow the steps in post #2? If so where did you end up? Did your test light light up on the trigger wire harness? And at the starter?

mcintosh420

oops i meant to say i will give that update in the morning after the replacement starter is in sorry about that.
but yes i have followed all your steps that lead me to find the trigger wire to be faulty in the new starter i had installed so i am returning for a new one and putting it in.

mcintosh420

installed the new starter when i got home fired right up purrs like a kitten thank you very much!!

it was a defective trigger switch wire wasnt attached properly. cheap chinese aftermarket parts i knew i should have ordered OEM lesson for next time. thanks agian

carman336

Just a simple one for you guys. My sister has a 2003 se 3.5 and the start signal fuse somehow worked it's way lose. Check all the fuses and push them in.

lilblucoupe

FIRST: 135,000 auto 2003 GLE
SECOND: had P0340 code so i replaced the cam sensor and clean my battery cables and now it wont even crank over. If i bypass the starter inhibitor relay it will crank but no start.

THIRD: all stock
FOURTH: no lights

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Did the car have issues starting before you replaced the Cam sensor, or did you do that only because there was a code for it?


Either way initially from what you've said it sounds like you have a bad ground or terminal connection right around the battery, remove them and clean them, retest.

lilblucoupe

finally tracked it down to the neutral safety switch not giving a ground to the starter inhibitor relay. I guess it was one of those crazy things that just happen to happen at the same time. Thanks

lilblucoupe

ok i tried the safety switch and it still didnt fix this. I can ground the starter inhibitor relay and it will start. But now my AC doesnt work or my cooling fans either. Its gotta be a ground problem i would think. Still need help!

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

please respond to my questions and also clean grounds

Brian Canady

The only thing you need to remove the starter once you remove the air box is a 3/8" ratchet, a 3" extension, a 17mm deep well socket and a 14mm deep well socket, and a breaker bar if its the oem starter. Maybe some pb blaster. The rear bolt is going to be 17mm, and the front will be 14mm. The rear goes through the starter and into the block, and the front goes directly into the block.

SpottyJ

2002 Nissan Maxima, SE, 6-spd/manual transmission.

165,000 miles

No special mods.

Car just stopped running while on the road. Towed home.

When trying to start, sometimes get a click. Most of the time rapid clicking.

Conduct the starter test as outlined above - And starter tested good.

Battery shows 12 volts. Tried to start using another battery, no change.

I visually checked the fuses.

Any ideas?

Update: for "kicks" I decided to bump start the car, and it started! And now starts fine, multiple times, go figure. Still not sure what happen and am I concerned with future reliability. I am considering replacing the starter anyway - THOUGHTS?


TIA

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

bad solenoid on the starter

maxiiiboy

This behavior (poor start, intermittent failure to start, clicks, etc.) is what I experienced during the 3-4 weeks before my starter failed. When it failed, it failed hard, and it did cost me a tow, and a fix at my mechanic place ($220 for a new starter, plus about $150 for labor).

I am thinking of buying a replacement starter - Rockauto sells new Hitachi-made starter for about $85 or $90 - just to be ready when this happens next time; perhaps in 20-30k miles assuming the new starter lasts as long as the OEM did. BTW, my car is an Automatic, so I don't have the option of kick-starting; a big drawback.

However, I am not sure how to explain why your car died on your way home. Did you check your codes, incl. pending codes? Also, battery connections, ground integrity, etc.

SpottyJ

Thank you for the reply. No "new" codes - I have an emission code that has been there a while. Not sure why the car died (although my daughter was driving, so I don't know exact situation).


I did replace the starter today - very, very easy on the 2002. Just remove the air intake and it was easy to access. I am not automobile repair savvy, and did this in 20 mins start to finish. Hope this solves my problem.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Cam sensor will kill it like that and it can be VERY intermittent. Like once per month or less.

LabbRat

First:2003, Automatic, 181K


Second: No Relevant mods


Third: Performed all checks, all tests good, car will start fine for a week then start clicking with no cranking. After several attempts of turning key and clicking, car will start right up! I took the starter off and had Auto Zone test it and it tested good. Could this be a cam sensor as some guys have mentioned?


Fourth: No codes

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

same thing I said before - bad starter solenoid - replace the starter

george__

iTrader: (1)

That one bolt on the starter is a painn

Any tips?

It's so long

LabbRat

Thanks, I was kinda leaning toward doing that even though it tested good at Auto Zone. After reading countless threads about this issue, I think its worth throwing $130 at it just to eliminate the starter out of the equation!

LabbRat

Mine was a little tight, but came right out. I used a 17mm socket with a 2" extension and had plenty of space to break it free. Then it came out by hand. I had the starter off the car in about 20 minutes, start to finish.

george__

iTrader: (1)

Did you do it from the top or bottom?

jjubert

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you buy a brand new starter, not that refurbished crap!

LabbRat

Did it all from the top. My car has a short ram air intake, and I didn't even need to remove it to access the starter bolts.