5th Gen: What did you do to your 5th Gen today?
. Wikipedia has all that listed about our car.
09-27-2016, 01:53 PM
#2765
I suspect I likely be purchasing the flash tune as well, I've been waiting a long time for something like this to become available again.
10-01-2016, 09:17 PM
#2767
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
The rear VCG for the second time. The first time around the thing fell out right before it contacted the mating suface . 
WHen I finally got it all back together I had a huge puddle of oil under the car.
WHat a B#t*h!
I think I got I right this time around.
WHen I finally got it all back together I had a huge puddle of oil under the car.
WHat a B#t*h!
I think I got I right this time around.
10-02-2016, 03:57 AM
#2769
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Hertford, NC.
Posts: 332
Removed the side motor mount and tranny mount. The side mount was bad enough it needed to be replaced. Filled new one with window weld and also filled the tranny mount. Sanded down the mount and repainted it too. Took off the radiator mounts and sanded them down and painted them. Also ordered new radiator mount bushings.
Letting the mounts cure until Wednesday(my day off) will be installing the new flased ecu then too
Letting the mounts cure until Wednesday(my day off) will be installing the new flased ecu then too
10-02-2016, 07:37 AM
#2770
how do you not see that while putting it back together? are you doing this blindfolded or something?
10-02-2016, 08:50 AM
#2771
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
This time around I put dabs of RTV all around the valve cover edge before seating it in the grooves. I got a back up gasket too in case It leaks again but I think it should be good!
It's happened before on a different car. Make a long story short I had to drop the pan scrape all the new RTV off and re-do. I got it right .
Got to re-do until we get it right.
10-03-2016, 04:12 AM
#2772
10-08-2016, 09:10 PM
#2773
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
Waiting on the new injectors. Replaced the fuel return hose from the regulator with 5/16 universal fuel hose Mad in the USA by Armormark. I guess it was 7mm now it's 7.9mm. I think I pulled the metal pipe it attaches to out of the plastic guide . What a b*#%h! Put new metal bands on both ends.
Last edited by maximatech12; 10-10-2016 at 12:56 AM.
10-16-2016, 11:50 AM
#2777
Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 276
Just had a friend weld up my exhaust for me. The previous owner welded 1 3/4 pipe right before the cat because the flex pipe they bought was too small. Literaly just a smaller(diameter) piece of pipe and gobs of metal is what was in front of the flex pipe to the manifold. I was wondering why my motor would jerk so hard after letting out the gas in gear, it was being choked!
10-17-2016, 06:47 AM
#2778
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
I'm nearing 200k, and the last month or so hasn't been so nice to the poor ol' girl.
I hit a massive pothole doing 65 mph, which instantly resulted in my steering wheel rotating 15 degrees to the left... It also happened to be 1 week after I had installed new struts/mounts and had an alignment done. Anyway, I replaced the inner/outer tie rods plus installed a new driver's CV axle, and all was right with the world.
On the way home from getting an alignment, I got a niiiice rough misfire. It ended up being the spark plugs, but for ****s and giggles I replaced both those and the coils.
To reward it, I spend this weekend detailing it. Clay, Meguiars 105 polish, meguiars 205 polish, and Griot's liquid poly wax and it looks like new
I hit a massive pothole doing 65 mph, which instantly resulted in my steering wheel rotating 15 degrees to the left... It also happened to be 1 week after I had installed new struts/mounts and had an alignment done. Anyway, I replaced the inner/outer tie rods plus installed a new driver's CV axle, and all was right with the world.
On the way home from getting an alignment, I got a niiiice rough misfire. It ended up being the spark plugs, but for ****s and giggles I replaced both those and the coils.
To reward it, I spend this weekend detailing it. Clay, Meguiars 105 polish, meguiars 205 polish, and Griot's liquid poly wax and it looks like new
10-18-2016, 04:04 PM
#2779
Zoom zoom
Installed Cattman headers, fast cat, and Carltonator....I just fell back in love with my max. Now I have to install my dual O2 simulator to get rid of that SES light, and eventually get her tuned
10-18-2016, 07:09 PM
#2781
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
broke the tab on the quick release in the fuel pump container.
It still snaps in place though and now I have a new Filter in. What to do about the broken tab on the return line quick connect?
Can I cut the whole return line out and use universal rubber tube or will it burn up from heat?
It still snaps in place though and now I have a new Filter in. What to do about the broken tab on the return line quick connect?
Can I cut the whole return line out and use universal rubber tube or will it burn up from heat?
10-19-2016, 08:58 PM
#2782
broke the tab on the quick release in the fuel pump container.
It still snaps in place though and now I have a new Filter in. What to do about the broken tab on the return line quick connect?
Can I cut the whole return line out and use universal rubber tube or will it burn up from heat?
It still snaps in place though and now I have a new Filter in. What to do about the broken tab on the return line quick connect?
Can I cut the whole return line out and use universal rubber tube or will it burn up from heat?
You've made a huge mistake!
The filter on your car was a lifetime filter now since you changed it you might experience filter failure
10-20-2016, 04:14 AM
#2783
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
Within the fuel pump assembly level sensor/fuel temp sensor I'm not seeing any of the electrical connectors shielded from the fuel.
How do they run 12V to a pump without covering any of the contacts from direct fuel contact?
a little air and this things going to blow!
My concern is also with the rubber seal ring around the fuel pump access opening.
The seal pops out and then is oversized and doesn't want to fit back into the groove.
Last edited by maximatech12; 10-20-2016 at 04:36 AM.
10-20-2016, 05:32 AM
#2784
I wish the injectors were lifetime.
Within the fuel pump assembly level sensor/fuel temp sensor I'm not seeing any of the electrical connectors shielded from the fuel.
How do they run 12V to a pump without covering any of the contacts from direct fuel contact?
a little air and this things going to blow!
My concern is also with the rubber seal ring around the fuel pump access opening.
The seal pops out and then is oversized and doesn't want to fit back into the groove.
Within the fuel pump assembly level sensor/fuel temp sensor I'm not seeing any of the electrical connectors shielded from the fuel.
How do they run 12V to a pump without covering any of the contacts from direct fuel contact?
a little air and this things going to blow!
My concern is also with the rubber seal ring around the fuel pump access opening.
The seal pops out and then is oversized and doesn't want to fit back into the groove.
The rubber seal may have deformed with age. I haven't had one apart in a while to remember how it fits on these cars.
10-20-2016, 06:53 AM
#2785
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
There was a bit of burnt appearance on the copper wire where it solders to the posts of the FLS/FTS connectors.
Almost looked like a really old light bulb socket connector you pull from an old house ceiling.
Without any air I doubt even a small arc could ignite inside of the tank. It could just smother the arc?
Almost looked like a really old light bulb socket connector you pull from an old house ceiling.
Without any air I doubt even a small arc could ignite inside of the tank. It could just smother the arc?
10-20-2016, 04:48 PM
#2786
The burn may be from when it was originally soldered. If the wires got hot enough to leave burn marks the insulation would be burned or at least blistered. The power line should be fused to keep the line from burning if some malfunction causes the wires to heat up too much. As long as the wires are secure there should never be sparks.
There's plenty of air in the tank.
There's plenty of air in the tank.
10-21-2016, 05:11 AM
#2787
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
what I eventually realized was that the flange that fits around the access opening actually fits on a certain way.
If you don't line up the flattened area with the tank you may get a Level sensor temp sensor code.
After removing the screws then turning the flange in the right position it snapped in place perfectly.
I think if anyone tried to screw it down with out lining up the flat sides it doesn't fit right.
If you don't line up the flattened area with the tank you may get a Level sensor temp sensor code.
After removing the screws then turning the flange in the right position it snapped in place perfectly.
I think if anyone tried to screw it down with out lining up the flat sides it doesn't fit right.
Last edited by maximatech12; 10-21-2016 at 05:14 AM.
10-22-2016, 07:51 PM
#2789
Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 298
^ nice wheels
Started but did not complete installation of obx 3.0 headers. What a nightmare. Managed to get the front manifold off; I have one more nut to remove off the rear that is hard to reach from under or over. 6 hours not enough. Too many brackets and shields are stubborn. Wish me luck.
Started but did not complete installation of obx 3.0 headers. What a nightmare. Managed to get the front manifold off; I have one more nut to remove off the rear that is hard to reach from under or over. 6 hours not enough. Too many brackets and shields are stubborn. Wish me luck.
10-22-2016, 08:30 PM
#2790
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: QC (canada)
Posts: 48
^ nice wheels
Started but did not complete installation of obx 3.0 headers. What a nightmare. Managed to get the front manifold off; I have one more nut to remove off the rear that is hard to reach from under or over. 6 hours not enough. Too many brackets and shields are stubborn. Wish me luck.
Started but did not complete installation of obx 3.0 headers. What a nightmare. Managed to get the front manifold off; I have one more nut to remove off the rear that is hard to reach from under or over. 6 hours not enough. Too many brackets and shields are stubborn. Wish me luck.
you'll know next time!
10-22-2016, 08:51 PM
#2791
Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 298
10-22-2016, 09:30 PM
#2792
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: QC (canada)
Posts: 48
10-23-2016, 10:15 AM
#2793
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
This could prevent a lot of rust from forming.
10-23-2016, 02:00 PM
#2794
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: QC (canada)
Posts: 48
there is no way you gonna get the water hose when there is 6 feet of snow everywhere outside! (Unless you got a summer and winter car)
10-23-2016, 04:21 PM
#2795
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 972
Waiting on the new injectors. Replaced the fuel return hose from the regulator with 5/16 universal fuel hose Mad in the USA by Armormark. I guess it was 7mm now it's 7.9mm. I think I pulled the metal pipe it attaches to out of the plastic guide . What a b*#%h! Put new metal bands on both ends.
Car runs good but now I think I need a new upstream O2 sensor on the right bank.
