Bronxboi5

Now I know ppl have gotten these codes before but I havebt found if anyone has solved the problem but I'm throwing Codes 1448 and 0455 came up today...., evap canister and evap control system leak.... Now to be honest I'm a single father and I slipped up on a hot Florida day and left the ac on for my son that was sleeping while I pumped gas but it was 4 days ago.... Could've been the cause who knows:..... But has anyone actually fixed this...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

When you have those 2 codes together, focus on the P1448 code which is the The EVAP canister vent control valve. It's not all that uncommon for the valve to fail if you live up north in the snowbelt, not as common in the south.

The EVAP canister vent control valve is bolted on to the charcoal canister that is behind the driver side rear wheel. It has a metal shaft that becomes corroded and can't move. Sometimes you can take the valve off and spray WD40 type stuff in it and free it up with a screwdriver. Sometimes you can't.

mazda626es

iTrader: (1)

To add a little more to what Dennis said. If you pull everything off, you can test the valve with a battery, if you cant hear it or see it move, you need that replaced.

Bronxboi5

Thank right on the money.... Yeah was a New York car but 4 weeks ago moved to Florida

stockmax

So I'm getting the same codes on my 2000 Max SE. I crawled underneath and noticed that the Evap Canister itself is cracked in the rear (I'm wondering if my son, who has been driving the car lately, back over something and cracked it). Would that cause the system to fail? That is about a $200 part, so don't want to replace it unless I have to.

Also, what is the best way to separate the valve from the canister? I've taken out the two bolts, but it doesn't seem to want to come off. Should I just be a bit more "gorilla" with it?

Finally, somebody mentioned being able to test the valve with a battery. Can you be more specific on how to do this?

Thanks in advance!

Keith

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Those 2 bolts are all that holds the valve on, so some good old brute strength and ignorance coupled with an old sailor's salty language should work wonders.

The canister is filled with small charcoal particles that filter the gas tank fumes from getting into the atmosphere. If the body is cracked, water could get in in there and be absorbed by the charcoal, which could plug the canister and stop air flow and probably cause a check engine code. If the area you live in has not been getting a lot of rain, you're probably ok. I would suggest you seal the crack with silicone sealer or something. Otherwise get another canister. A junk yard part would work and be a lot cheaper. But also, the canister should have a round piece attached on the back end towards the bumper. This is an air filter for the air that enters the canister. If this got knocked off, water will get in.

If you were to buy a new canister, it does not come with the vent control valve. The valve is a separate item.

Testing the valve is not as complicated as you might be thinking. It is just a simple electro-magnet. Get some jumper wires and connect one connector pin to the positive battery terminal and the other connector pin to the negative battery terminal. If you hook the wires up backwards (50-50 chance), the valve won't work. But you won't hurt the valve, either, and you just reverse the wire connections.

Here is a link to the service manual on doing this. Page 661 start talking about the valve and page 663 talks about hooking the valve up to a battery.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/EC.pdf

stockmax

Thanks, Dennis! Appreciate the response.

Keith