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Old 07-29-2014, 04:40 PM
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Help

Well went to go to the store last night and started my car, but it took about 6 or 7 times of turning over for motor to start. I turned it off and try again and it only took once. Went shopping for about 45 minutes and came out and the same thing happened again.

And then today, was happening again but had to leave so I put it into reverse and my idle dropped to about 500rpms and it felt like my car was gonna stall, but put it in drive and my idle went back to normal of around 800rpms.

I don't think it's the battery because all my lights stay on, and it continues to start. But not sure whether the IACV would cause that? Or if my starter is going bad?
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:00 PM
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Well, I get the unlucky task of changing the alternator on this thing...
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:41 AM
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For next time.

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Old 07-30-2014, 08:24 AM
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Good luck fixing that alternator
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by KrayZie
Well, I get the unlucky task of changing the alternator on this thing...
How did you come to that conclusion? Doesn't sound like an alternator to me. Did you get it and the started tested at a local auto store?

Sounds like an ECTS almost (hard warm/hot starts). Or a bad CPS/harness. Alternator light would cause your battery light to come on even though the car is still functioning. Same thing with a belt that decided to go away, the second the alternator stops spinning or dies, that light along with another will come on.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:07 AM
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Got the conclusion of a bad alternator from Autozone. They hooked their little machine up to my battery and ran their test, said my battery was good, but my alternator had failed the test. The part I don't understand is 1)no lights have come on, and secondly why has my battery yet to die if it isn't recharging? When it first starts it takes it a little bit to start, like a whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr, and finally gets going but sounds like the battery is dead. But once its on, and doesn't sit for to long it doesnt take AS long to start, but still longer then normal.

Went to change it out yesterday night, and couldn't get the idler pulley nut off for the life of me, and needless to say is now round and stripped to hell

Ive got the new alternator, as well as an Optima battery in my cars trunk, just waiting for the current battery to die before I have time to get it replaced, assuming it is the alternator and not something else.

Last edited by KrayZie; 07-31-2014 at 03:10 AM.
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Old 07-31-2014, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by KrayZie
Got the conclusion of a bad alternator from Autozone. They hooked their little machine up to my battery and ran their test, said my battery was good, but my alternator had failed the test. The part I don't understand is 1)no lights have come on, and secondly why has my battery yet to die if it isn't recharging? When it first starts it takes it a little bit to start, like a whirr whirr whirr whirr whirr, and finally gets going but sounds like the battery is dead. But once its on, and doesn't sit for to long it doesnt take AS long to start, but still longer then normal.

Went to change it out yesterday night, and couldn't get the idler pulley nut off for the life of me, and needless to say is now round and stripped to hell

Ive got the new alternator, as well as an Optima battery in my cars trunk, just waiting for the current battery to die before I have time to get it replaced, assuming it is the alternator and not something else.
Yeah when mine died it brought me about 45 miles home. Then I got brave and drove it the next day and sure enough, electrical demons kicked in and the gauges all went to 0, and the car started bucking and barely limped me home.

Try a set of vice grips. That's what I've used in my day but I know there are tons of other options for stripped bolts these days.
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Old 07-31-2014, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Yeah when mine died it brought me about 45 miles home. Then I got brave and drove it the next day and sure enough, electrical demons kicked in and the gauges all went to 0, and the car started bucking and barely limped me home.

Try a set of vice grips. That's what I've used in my day but I know there are tons of other options for stripped bolts these days.
I have driven about 150 miles since I first noticed that problem. The only problem it gives me is starting, and an occasional rev drop when in reverse. So originally I thought it was the starter, until Autozone told me otherwise.

I have tried vice grips, but didn't have a big enough one, but also tried a pipe wrench but that damn nut is stuck. Sprayed it with Liquid Wrench, brake cleaner, and horrible WD40, but to no avail. If only they could of but the nut for the alternator on the other side of the alternator it would of been fine!
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:56 PM
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Would a bad battery cause the test Autozone does to see if battery and alternate is bad, to cause it to show a bad alternator?

I replaced the battery in my car tonight, from some crap cheap brand, to an Optima battery, took it back to Autozone and had them test both battery and alternator, and they said everything came back fine now.

I've heard if I remove the negative cable off the battery while the car is running and it continues to run that the alternator is good, if it dies the alternators bad. Is that true?

And lastly, is there some special way of getting that damn idler pulley nut off that I missed? It's stripped to hell now, but maybe theres still a way to get it off without damaging the bolt its on?
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Old 08-03-2014, 12:10 PM
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