I have so many questions about replacing ignition coils.
09-29-2014, 02:46 PM
#1
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Location: Lawrence, KS
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I have so many questions about replacing ignition coils.
I've been having some trouble with my '02 Maxima. I took it in for a power steering leak and the mechanic took a look at several other problems I was having. Turns out one of my ignition coils is bad and needs replacing. He quoted me at $600 for parts and labor; I had to ask a car enthusiast coworker before I understood what a ripoff that was for how easy it was to replace the coils and plugs myself. I'm gonna give it a try, but I have a lot of questions first and was hoping you could help me out. I have very little experience with car maintenance and repair outside of maintaining fluid levels and swapping out wiper blades, so please bear with me: you might have to explain things like you would to a five year old.
1. Should I replace all 6 coils and plugs at once, or should I replace them as they wear out? I've heard arguments from both sides, but it would make sense to me to get them done in one fell swoop, especially as I need to replace all the spark plugs anyway. Who wants to tell me I'm wrong? No worries: I often am.
2. I found this set of 6 coils on Araparts; does anyone have thoughts on the pricing or quality of Araparts' coils? $120 is what the mechanic wanted to charge me for a single coil, so I can't tell if these are inferior parts or if he was trying to rob me.
3. The mechanic also priced me for spark plug boots, but from this YouTube video on replacing 00-03 Maxima coils, I didn't see him using spark plug boots. Is he an idiot, or does this engine not actually need plug boots? And if I do need them, how do they fit into the system?
4. The set of coils from Araparts also comes with dielectric grease, but the video didn't show its application. Was that probably cut out, or does the COP setup not need the grease? If it does, could someone point me to a guide for applying it?
5. I was quoted for a new intake plenum gasket set without being told why it was needed; is this a part that probably needs replacement as well? For a point of reference, my car has 137,000 miles on it. I hadn't heard of the gasket before I saw it on the estimate, so I wasn't sure if he was just tacking it on for the extra dollars.
Any help is appreciated. I want to be able to do more to my car than top off fluids and I want to be able to do it with confidence.
1. Should I replace all 6 coils and plugs at once, or should I replace them as they wear out? I've heard arguments from both sides, but it would make sense to me to get them done in one fell swoop, especially as I need to replace all the spark plugs anyway. Who wants to tell me I'm wrong? No worries: I often am.
2. I found this set of 6 coils on Araparts; does anyone have thoughts on the pricing or quality of Araparts' coils? $120 is what the mechanic wanted to charge me for a single coil, so I can't tell if these are inferior parts or if he was trying to rob me.
3. The mechanic also priced me for spark plug boots, but from this YouTube video on replacing 00-03 Maxima coils, I didn't see him using spark plug boots. Is he an idiot, or does this engine not actually need plug boots? And if I do need them, how do they fit into the system?
4. The set of coils from Araparts also comes with dielectric grease, but the video didn't show its application. Was that probably cut out, or does the COP setup not need the grease? If it does, could someone point me to a guide for applying it?
5. I was quoted for a new intake plenum gasket set without being told why it was needed; is this a part that probably needs replacement as well? For a point of reference, my car has 137,000 miles on it. I hadn't heard of the gasket before I saw it on the estimate, so I wasn't sure if he was just tacking it on for the extra dollars.
Any help is appreciated. I want to be able to do more to my car than top off fluids and I want to be able to do it with confidence.
09-29-2014, 03:02 PM
#2
ignition coil
Ideally you need to use OEM genuine nissan ignition coil at Courtesyparts.com to get rid of the SES light.
Second choice is OEM aftemarket parts at Rocauto.com, get the Hitachi brand.
Those igniton coils that you bought, just give me favor, return it to where it belong.
Its better to replace the rear ignition coil (1,3,5)because is not easily accessible, you need to remove the intake manifold.
Replace the rear valve cover and gasket (buy the 6th Gen 2004 its the same and cheaper compare to 5th Gen)
Second choice is OEM aftemarket parts at Rocauto.com, get the Hitachi brand.
Those igniton coils that you bought, just give me favor, return it to where it belong.
Its better to replace the rear ignition coil (1,3,5)because is not easily accessible, you need to remove the intake manifold.
Replace the rear valve cover and gasket (buy the 6th Gen 2004 its the same and cheaper compare to 5th Gen)
09-29-2014, 04:48 PM
#3
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I haven't bought anything yet; I was coming on here for advice long before I made any major purchases.
Do you have any advice as to my questions about the dielectric grease or boots?
Do you have any advice as to my questions about the dielectric grease or boots?
09-29-2014, 05:09 PM
#5
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Michigan
Posts: 139
When I was thinking of getting plugs and coils for my 2000 Infiniti I30 I found this article quite helpful. I don't know if you could apply this info to your car, but maybe it might help you decide on some things (like buying OEM equivalent plugs and ignition coils).
09-29-2014, 05:31 PM
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 48
I had this problem on my 03 once. My valve covers were leaking into the spark plug chambers and causing coils to break down. So I did what they are recommending and replaced the back threw coils with oem. (they are the best for the job) and because you have to take the intake and all off, trust me you want to not have to do that on the regular. I did replace the front with aftermarket. (they only take a few minutes to replace) Keep in mind if your valve cover gaskets are leaking into the chambers the seals are not serviced separate so we ended up replacing the entire covers but with the new models 30 per cover vs 200-250 per side which is stupid and ridiculous, but it is what it is. I hope this helps. Good luck my man!
09-29-2014, 05:31 PM
#8
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 836
1. I would only replace a coil as they fail. I replaced one coil at 120k and at 155k the rest are fine. Once you learn how to remove the intake manifold then it is not a big deal to do it again later.
2. Way to many stories of failing aftermarket coils. Oem!!!
3. Don't worry about boots.
4. Don't worry about grease.
5. If you have to remove the valve covers then you have to replace the gasket every time. Get the 2004 maxima rear valve cover and gasket. It is way cheaper and higher quality.
Hope this helps!
2. Way to many stories of failing aftermarket coils. Oem!!!
3. Don't worry about boots.
4. Don't worry about grease.
5. If you have to remove the valve covers then you have to replace the gasket every time. Get the 2004 maxima rear valve cover and gasket. It is way cheaper and higher quality.
Hope this helps!
09-29-2014, 06:49 PM
#9
I would recommend you use dielectric grease to help contain the energy and and prevent any high voltage leaks...
09-29-2014, 09:02 PM
#13
OP pull coil packs from the junkyard, rears are a different length then the front so make sure you do pull from both sides. I'd reccomend only replacing each one as they die. Sparkplugs definatley change all of them at the same time. NGK only. I use coppers, cheap and strong.
Last edited by bumpypickle; 09-29-2014 at 10:40 PM.
09-29-2014, 10:07 PM
#14
I have a set of 6 OEM coils for sale. Check out my for sale thread:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-top-hats.html
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-top-hats.html
09-30-2014, 08:40 PM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,779
If you are going to buy coils, but OEM from Nissan (online or dealer) or buy Hitachi brand (who manufactures coils for Nissan). They seem to be the the only two that seem to be reliable in our cars. I have the Hitachis in my car for close to two years now and they are going strong. Got them from rockauto.
10-02-2014, 06:35 AM
#16
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 218
[QUOTE=bumpypickle;8988357]OP pull coil packs from the junkyard, rears are a different length then the front so make sure you do pull from both sides. I'd reccomend only replacing each one as they die. Sparkplugs definatley change all of them at the same time. NGK only. I use coppers, cheap and strong.[QUOTE]
This guy knows.
This guy knows.
10-02-2014, 11:51 AM
#17
OP pull coil packs from the junkyard, rears are a different length then the front so make sure you do pull from both sides. I'd reccomend only replacing each one as they die. Sparkplugs definatley change all of them at the same time. NGK only. I use coppers, cheap and strong.
10-02-2014, 07:51 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,779
OP pull coil packs from the junkyard, rears are a different length then the front so make sure you do pull from both sides. I'd reccomend only replacing each one as they die. Sparkplugs definatley change all of them at the same time. NGK only. I use coppers, cheap and strong.
And OP, the NGK platniums are OEM, cost a couple dollars more and are good for 100k miles. Well worth the money even if you only run them for 50k-75k miles.
10-02-2014, 07:52 PM
#19
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,779
[QUOTE=WTF?;8989034][QUOTE=bumpypickle;8988357]OP pull coil packs from the junkyard, rears are a different length then the front so make sure you do pull from both sides. I'd reccomend only replacing each one as they die. Sparkplugs definatley change all of them at the same time. NGK only. I use coppers, cheap and strong.
Um, obviously he doesn't.
This guy knows.
10-02-2014, 10:10 PM
#20
DUDE! Stop! They are NOT different lengths on a 2002 or 2003 Maxima. The OP (and me) own 02's and they are the same length and part number for all six coils.
And OP, the NGK platniums are OEM, cost a couple dollars more and are good for 100k miles. Well worth the money even if you only run them for 50k-75k miles.
And OP, the NGK platniums are OEM, cost a couple dollars more and are good for 100k miles. Well worth the money even if you only run them for 50k-75k miles.
I think I've had and touched too many maximas. I can't even keep that straight LOL
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 10-02-2014 at 10:15 PM.
10-03-2014, 07:42 AM
#21
Yup on my 3.0 the bank1 coils have the connectors on top ,where the bank2 coils have the connectors on the side
10-03-2014, 07:59 AM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 218
Hmmmm.....food for though.....the NGK coppers are a lot easier to fire, and therefore considerably easier on the coils.....hence why people with plenty of experience always bring them up. I know it's blasphemy around here, but OEM isn't always best.
10-03-2014, 06:41 PM
#23
NGK have a better performance but the lifespan is 35,000 miles. Platinum lifespan is up to 120, 000 miles. If you can do it yourself to replace the sparkplug, you better off use the NGK copper. If not, just the labor alone will cost you $500.00, because you need to remove the intake manifold for VQ35DE engine to access the 1,3,5 sparkplugs. Its about 4 hours of labor. VQ30DE engine , you can access the 1,3,5 sparkplugs without removing the intake manifold.
Last edited by colt149; 10-04-2014 at 05:06 PM.
10-03-2014, 10:11 PM
#24
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 218
NGK have a better performance but the lifespan is 35,000 miles. Platinum lifespan is up to 120, 000 miles. If you can do it yourself to replace the sparkplug, you better off use the NGK copper. If not, just the labor alone will cost you $500.00, because you need to remove the intake manifold for VQ35DE engine to access the 1,3,5 sparkplugs. Its about 4 hours of labor.
I completely agree, and well stated.
10-04-2014, 06:00 PM
#27
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,779
NGK have a better performance but the lifespan is 35,000 miles. Platinum lifespan is up to 120, 000 miles. If you can do it yourself to replace the sparkplug, you better off use the NGK copper. If not, just the labor alone will cost you $500.00, because you need to remove the intake manifold for VQ35DE engine to access the 1,3,5 sparkplugs. Its about 4 hours of labor. VQ30DE engine , you can access the 1,3,5 sparkplugs without removing the intake manifold.
10-04-2014, 07:32 PM
#28
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Thanks for all the advice, guys! I've learned a lot about my engine over the last couple of days. I'm glad I asked the questions I did; I really hoped that the shop wasn't going to try to take advantage of me and charge me for services and parts I didn't need. When girls walk into shops, I guess we should just learn to expect that. Time to nut up and do my own work!
(And for anyone who was concerned, I DO know the difference between a VQ30 and a VQ35!
)
(And for anyone who was concerned, I DO know the difference between a VQ30 and a VQ35!
)
10-05-2014, 09:56 AM
#29
Thanks for all the advice, guys! I've learned a lot about my engine over the last couple of days. I'm glad I asked the questions I did; I really hoped that the shop wasn't going to try to take advantage of me and charge me for services and parts I didn't need. When girls walk into shops, I guess we should just learn to expect that. Time to nut up and do my own work!
(And for anyone who was concerned, I DO know the difference between a VQ30 and a VQ35! )
(And for anyone who was concerned, I DO know the difference between a VQ30 and a VQ35!
)
11-01-2014, 11:37 AM
#31
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 106
Ok, I've read many many posts about coils, as I need to replace mine. I know everyone says buy OEM, but does anyone know about the MasterPro coils from O'reily? They actually come with a lifetime warranty, so they couldn't be bad right? I was wondering if it was just a re-branded OEM coil, but I'm going to go check them out and see how they look, ie green dot, grey dot, no dot, etc... I replaced one about 7 years ago and it's been fine. I still have to figure out which one is faulty.
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