WarriorA33

So today i noticed a belligerent loss of power in the 1st or 2nd gear 2-3k mark where it drops about 1k and just picks back up where it left off like it's tuesday and unicorns are flying and it also has another hesitation in higher ranging rpms, like it wants to lose power but it hesitates and keeps going not like with 1st/2nd it just hesitates

It's kinda a hard issue to describe it dosent grind or backfire, or just not shift.

what i'm dealing with
2001 nissan maxima se
JN1HS36P0KW036051 Vin
4 a/t (not sure w/ lsd or not)
62k miles
dealership maintained by past owner
60k dealership maint hasn't been done
(I hate dealerships)

I think it's trans filter/fluid

WarriorA33

Bump

A little update, i've continued to drive the car, driving it regularly up to 2k, it runs and drives fine but only sometimes when i push it to 3k and up it just dies and drops to 2k or to idle until it remembers it needs to go into gear and it actually goes.

Still confused kinda waiting to make a move on maintenance, it's my daily so i cant exactly tear into it quite yet.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Maf?

WarriorA33

It throws no code on the scanner, i'm leaning away from transmission issue i think it's more like a vacuum leak, it only does it under a heavier load.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Vac leaks are more pronounced at light load. MAF never throws a code that I've seen unless it's completely dead. A bad maf will definitely stop it from revving high and producing power.

WarriorA33

how would i go about diagnosing it for the maf?

Unclejunebug

Have you ever cleaned the MAF? It would be worth a try and is cheap/easy to do. This write-up says to use Torx #15 screwdriver but I used a #20 and it was a better fit.

How to clean your MAF

WarriorA33

I actually just replaced the MAF, now it's throwing a CEL and still showing symptoms although the power has came back it's still killing itself at 3k rpms, i'm leaning into TPS now

WarriorA33

So another update after some driving time, the CEL is still on. it stopped all the syptoms, it's still hesitant at 4 - 5k rpms. The idle is about 400 - 500. otherwise it drives fine and i'm starting to hear a whistle from the engine bay

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

bad maf and vac leak?

Definitely sounds like there's a vac leak for sure, now.

WarriorA33

Could it be a dirty iavc? But it still is throwing a code, I'll get it scanned tomorrow

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

IACV would only matter at idle. I hope you have done the coolant bypass on it, already, though.

BronxSleeperMax187

Does it happen right away or after its been driven or warmed up and do the symptoms go away for A little if you shut off car and restart it?

WarriorA33

The whistling dosent go away it does it every time I hit the throttle, Its only been idling itself down after its gotten hot and same with the hesitation at higher rpms. Another new one is when I turn the a.c. on full blast at idle in park, it idles itself down to struggling to stay on

clive

Poor idle control is usually the AIC valve, when did you clean it last? No, wait, I am thinking of my Gen IV and this isn't a Gen IV is it ...

WarriorA33

No it's the fifth generation lol, it's now whistling a little louder and more consistantly at higher throttle levels

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Time to break out the ether and find the leak. Or just pull the manifold, reseal it and check all the hoses.

WarriorA33

So i let a guy ai work with borrow the car for like 30 minutes, he drove it to and from did what he needed to do. I get in the car and the check engine light is off, and it's no longer hesitating. Still whistling, kinda, but all symptoms of an issue are gone. It's confusing me more than the problem itself..

00Lightsout

is it FOR SURE a whistle, or could it be a squeezing AC pulley bearing that when engaged causes too much resistance?... or any other pulley for that matter.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, OT:

I don't want to be a nag, but if you value your car, never let anyone drive it unless you trust them with your life and then some. I don't care if it's family. Plenty of people lose good cars that way or cost themselves lots of money. Even if it's not their fault the car is gone.

WarriorA33

I normally don't, but it was a matter of a wellness check of someone i work with and i was occupied to where i couldn't get out of it, all was well though. The issues came back and it's gotten worse, it's starting to look like a clogged cat, it's still whistling but i cant find a leak. It's making a rumbling noise from underneath the cabin and it's not making the normal note it usually does, it's almost silent.

WarriorA33

It's not a pulley, it's coming from the TB throttle control area, under no load the only symptom it shows is it idles itself down sometimes, more so when it's hot or the a/c or heat is on.

cdoublejj

could the manifold be the reason for my weird idle?

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...le-2001-a.html

sorry to thread jack. can OPs car rev up in neutral? what would happen oif the CATs were getting clogged up? PCV valve?

WarriorA33

yes it can, checking pcv valve today. essentially it messes with the flow of exhaust and your back pressure.

WarriorA33

so it came back on and i got it scanned, p0171 p0174 p0100
guy at autozone tells me it's two bad o2 sensors but before i go buy parts i;d rather see if i get a response on here

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

unplug the O2s and find out

1st two codes say too lean like a vac leak. 3rd code says MAF.
So, you likely have a vac leak based on the hissing sound and your MAF/wiring to the MAF is bad or the MAF problem is causing it to run way lean and the hissing is inconsequential.

The car will never run correctly without a working MAF and can exhibit all kinds of crazy issues.

cdoublejj

can bad maf wiring cause high idle and is there a way to find out if it's the issue?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I doubt your issue is related unless i throws a maf code.