2002 maxima SE potential owner
#1
2002 maxima SE potential owner
2002 SE silver 212kmiles needs a little work, starts right up, idles fine, then idle drops, as if its going to stall but does not, then idle straightens out for a while then drops again but does not stall, tapping noise from somewhere when this happens each time, once warm drives great and no noticable problems only at idle. The car is $1750 needs a few light bulbs, hid low beams, turn signal, pass windows dont work. I think I would b a good buy and I like it, just that low idle tapping issue has me a little worried.
#6
is it an AT? "tapping" noise at idle could be failed motor mounts (i'd probably call it more of a whirring). AT mounts are designed to soften at idle and stiffen at driving speeds. that would be unrelated to your idle problem though
a possibility with your idle could be the IACV dying. could give erratic idle (would suspect it would stall completely if part completely failed) and the stepper motor makes some nice ticking noises.
a thing to watch out for on 5/5.5 gen is there's potential for ecm damage with failed iacv. and the other main thing that could fail and damage ecm is the AT motor mounts, lol. i guess i'm suggesting to check the ecm if you think it might be one of those parts.
want to clarify i'm not an expert on these things, but those might be a few places to start looking.
a possibility with your idle could be the IACV dying. could give erratic idle (would suspect it would stall completely if part completely failed) and the stepper motor makes some nice ticking noises.
a thing to watch out for on 5/5.5 gen is there's potential for ecm damage with failed iacv. and the other main thing that could fail and damage ecm is the AT motor mounts, lol. i guess i'm suggesting to check the ecm if you think it might be one of those parts.
want to clarify i'm not an expert on these things, but those might be a few places to start looking.
#7
is it an AT? "tapping" noise at idle could be failed motor mounts (i'd probably call it more of a whirring). AT mounts are designed to soften at idle and stiffen at driving speeds. that would be unrelated to your idle problem though
a possibility with your idle could be the IACV dying. could give erratic idle (would suspect it would stall completely if part completely failed) and the stepper motor makes some nice ticking noises.
a thing to watch out for on 5/5.5 gen is there's potential for ecm damage with failed iacv. and the other main thing that could fail and damage ecm is the AT motor mounts, lol. i guess i'm suggesting to check the ecm if you think it might be one of those parts.
want to clarify i'm not an expert on these things, but those might be a few places to start looking.
a possibility with your idle could be the IACV dying. could give erratic idle (would suspect it would stall completely if part completely failed) and the stepper motor makes some nice ticking noises.
a thing to watch out for on 5/5.5 gen is there's potential for ecm damage with failed iacv. and the other main thing that could fail and damage ecm is the AT motor mounts, lol. i guess i'm suggesting to check the ecm if you think it might be one of those parts.
want to clarify i'm not an expert on these things, but those might be a few places to start looking.
#8
Id have to run a scan on it to pull a code or take to autozone. Once it idles, its as if there is a clogged egr valve, or clogged fuel injector. Then comes this knocking sound as if something is loose, and then goes bak to normal, but I will have to take it a more experienced mechanic before I drop the cash on it since it is an As-is deal. But drives good
#9
Id have to run a scan on it to pull a code or take to autozone. Once it idles, its as if there is a clogged egr valve, or clogged fuel injector. Then comes this knocking sound as if something is loose, and then goes bak to normal, but I will have to take it a more experienced mechanic before I drop the cash on it since it is an As-is deal. But drives good
#11
Knocking could be shot motor mounts, but who knows if you can't isolate it.
Idle probably just needs reset.
For the millionth time: There is no goddamn IACV. Also, there's no EGR.
If you can't do a compression test on it, then I'd stay away for sure.
mileage + precats = clunker usually (big oil burner)
Price is too high, regardless. It needs various repairs (more that you don't know about, guaranteed) and I assume it's an auto? That's transmission time sooner or later.
I'd have to pay 1k, and still spend several hundred on parts just to make it right (with lots of labor to trash the cats). For an auto, that's not even worth it to me.
If you want a solid 5th gen just stick with the 3.0. They're built better, too, imo. People are blinded by the extra power of the 3.5, then are gravely disappointed when the known issues arise.
Idle probably just needs reset.
For the millionth time: There is no goddamn IACV. Also, there's no EGR.
If you can't do a compression test on it, then I'd stay away for sure.
mileage + precats = clunker usually (big oil burner)
Price is too high, regardless. It needs various repairs (more that you don't know about, guaranteed) and I assume it's an auto? That's transmission time sooner or later.
I'd have to pay 1k, and still spend several hundred on parts just to make it right (with lots of labor to trash the cats). For an auto, that's not even worth it to me.
If you want a solid 5th gen just stick with the 3.0. They're built better, too, imo. People are blinded by the extra power of the 3.5, then are gravely disappointed when the known issues arise.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 01-27-2015 at 10:07 PM.
#12
Knocking could be shot motor mounts, but who knows if you can't isolate it.
Idle probably just needs reset.
For the millionth time: There is no goddamn IACV. Also, there's no EGR.
If you can't do a compression test on it, then I'd stay away for sure.
mileage + precats = clunker usually (big oil burner)
Price is too high, regardless. It needs various repairs (more that you don't know about, guaranteed) and I assume it's an auto? That's transmission time sooner or later.
I'd have to pay 1k, and still spend several hundred on parts just to make it right (with lots of labor to trash the cats). For an auto, that's not even worth it to me.
If you want a solid 5th gen just stick with the 3.0. They're built better, too, imo. People are blinded by the extra power of the 3.5, then are gravely disappointed when the known issues arise.
Idle probably just needs reset.
For the millionth time: There is no goddamn IACV. Also, there's no EGR.
If you can't do a compression test on it, then I'd stay away for sure.
mileage + precats = clunker usually (big oil burner)
Price is too high, regardless. It needs various repairs (more that you don't know about, guaranteed) and I assume it's an auto? That's transmission time sooner or later.
I'd have to pay 1k, and still spend several hundred on parts just to make it right (with lots of labor to trash the cats). For an auto, that's not even worth it to me.
If you want a solid 5th gen just stick with the 3.0. They're built better, too, imo. People are blinded by the extra power of the 3.5, then are gravely disappointed when the known issues arise.
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