2kMaxim

So I've recently completed the exhaust with the Y pipe. Everything's good for now but I eventually will want to tune out the small low rpm rasp as I'm an avid sound man. My current exhaust chain is Ypipe>Test pipe>Stainless b pipe>Stock muffler. Basically straight through. Awesome power and WOT sound but a little a gnarly at low Rpms. Nothing loud...but not quite "tuned". There's a Vibrant oval resonator that I'm thinking of having welded into the test pipe. This resonator is meant to take out rasp according to the literature. I was curious if anyone has done a similar thing with good results. My friend says not to discredit a high flow cat, but I feel like putting on a y pipe, then adding a cat is an oxymoron? Anyone dealt this this issue and solved it with a resonator?

Cotozic

I know with the 3" stainless exhaust from BRM, I put a resonated test pipe on it and have no rasp, but a deep growl. I know I chose the resonated pipe instead of a straight pipe to avoid the potential rasp, but I don't know how the straight pipe sounds in person.

I know this isn't your setup, and it doesn't have the stock muffler, but the resonated test pipe with a 14" resonator on my set up gives no rasp.

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

Get a carltanator. It's exactly what you're looking for. It's big and quality is tops. Cmax I believe can help you I'll try and post a pic in a min

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

<a href="http://s1175.photobucket.com/user/matt_mcdonald4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/C8A24951-419C-4FCE-A11F-4AC329A26A31_zps7fop2kt2.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1175.photobucket.com/albums/r625/matt_mcdonald4/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-05/C8A24951-419C-4FCE-A11F-4AC329A26A31_zps7fop2kt2.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo C8A24951-419C-4FCE-A11F-4AC329A26A31_zps7fop2kt2.jpg"/></a>

george__

iTrader: (1)

4"

bigger the better

2kMaxim

I was looking at this guy....could get it welded right into the test pipe.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00180...211590-0798212

Mattx

iTrader: (2)

2kMaxim

How does it sound?

D.Stillwell

Which Ypipe did you get?

The raspy sounds all come from having an unequal length Ypipe vs. equal length.

I have no rasp and a very smooth, toned sound. And I'm only using the supplied Megan Racing resonator which is a bullet style straight pipe. My setup is equal length 2.5" Cattman Ypipe and 2.5" full exhaust (currently with stock cat, because my used hi-flow cat started to stink like a$$)

Hi-flow cat is a good idea IMO, I need myself a new one actually.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
how is the droning?

D.Stillwell

Depends on how loud the music is

No seriously, it's enough to drive some average folk into going bat-$h!t crazy. But then again, the sounds it makes are known to make grown men jizz their pants...

Its all subjective, but it's definitely not quiet by any means.

2kMaxim

With all due respect, I have a small bit of rasp because I don't have a cat. Cats provide a wall of screens that kill the rasp. Actually now that my back seats are back up , it doesn't sound raspy anymore. I was carrying a piano action with the seats folded down and I could hear the muffler directly.....I'm gonna hold off on the resonator for now. When I drive it aggressively it sounds soooo mean

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

If you still have a stock rear muffler and you think it's a bit raspy it's due to the fact that you chose a test pipe....My 3" Cattman was a bit on the droney side for my taste so I manufactured/fitted a Magnaflow 6" round x 18" muffler with flanges to be a pure bolt on for the 3" Cattman exhaust guys and it really quieted things down alot....BUT!!!! If you're still running the 2" OEM size tubing or a 2.5" upgraded Catback using a 22" long x 4" round Magnaflow will work well....GL

2kMaxim

Yeah it's 2.5 from the ypipe on back I believe. I've definitely given some thought to the resonator. I figured if I got the resonator welded into the test pipe, it might give the look of a cat Problem I face is I have an awesome muffler shop where the owner said he's willing to overlook the test pipe if he looks in my hood and sees a pre cat. And if it passes obd II test. He didn't put the Y on, I had my regular mechanic do that. So if I let him see under the car he may or may not still be ok with passing me...lol

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

This is why I believe bolt on's are superior! Reinstall a good Cat, perform your State Inspection, then do your muffler (flanged) then reinstall your testpipe....EZ!

2kMaxim

Well technically right now I could still pass....he'd still see that front precat under the hood...LOL. Unless he hung around in back where it kinda smells like a racecar

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Let the other guy or another shop do it or Do it yourself (Fit and have a shop weld it for you)it's not hard!

2kMaxim

Yeah. I need to dyno it this way before I do anything.....If the results are badass I might not touch it further..lol

2kMaxim

So I'm giving it some thought. I think when funds are back to normal I'm gonna have my mechanic gut my front precat. Then with the Y pipe I just out in it will basically be like full headers. I'll use non foulers on the sensors and put a magnaflow cat where the test pipe is. Badabing....big power...no smell

Jord61194

I have a 2002 max STRAIGHT PIPED. no cats. no resonators. I gutted my pre cats, and no cats after. I have a 3" brm resonatorless catback. with the muffler they provide. I changed the high flow cat to a test pipe and that's when the rasp started. moral of the story. have a resonation at the test pipe. ps. my car is stupid loud and drones like there is a pipe organ in my car....

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

My car isn’t raspy at all. And I also have no cats, pre or main. It might be those gutted pre-cats you have, vs headers. My car also isn’t terribly loud. I credit that the huge Carltonator. (6" round, 30" long)

ateick

iTrader: (1)

+1^

I have pretty much the same setup. Gutted pre and main cats with a huge Magnaflow resonator. Never any rasp. At times I almost wish it was louder but then I remember the drone before the Magnaflow.

2kMaxim

Yeah I still haven't gutted the other precat yet. I want to dyno with this ypipe on to see what the difference is. I've had a couple different opinions on whether the front precat will even be worth the trouble or not since its straight piping and the element itself isn't that big. Also no hassle with non foulers or Sims this way. Depending on the dyno I might direct that money into an safc tune...lol. Also putting one of those Vibrant oval resonators into the test pipe right behind the y pipe might fix the tiny low rpm rasp area.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

The Vibrant won't sound nor flow as good as the 6" round Magnaflow (Magnaflow Muffler use a 1 piece seamless straight thru design perforated tube) Vibrant is a 3 piece straight thru design tube

2kMaxim

Just to be clear, this is the one I mean...it's only about 10 inches long
http://www.tunersports.com/images/pr...-resonator.jpg

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

It's Too small to make a difference....Sorry to have to tell you that!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The only way a 10" (and even then it might be farfetched) is if it were baffled, but then we go back to the topic of the title of this thread.

2kMaxim

It's advertised that it was made to reduce "rifling" sound in straight through exhausts. I assume that's another word for rasp. I don't need the exhaust quieter.....I really don't NEED anything.....I'd just like to reduce rasp way down low in the rpm range. I'm really thinking my plan of gutting the front pre cat, using non foulers, and slapping a magnaflow cat where the test pipe is isn't a bad idea. Cleans up sound and cleans up smell which does occasionally bother me...lol. I'm sure I'll sacrifice a couple hp and gain a couple torque....at least that's what happened with my IS300

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

So, you're saying, you’d basically be making more horsepower earlier in the RPM range, and lose some hp in the higher revs.

I wouldn’t assume that, but the engines are fairly different. FWD V, vs RWD I, etc. But, either way, if the sound bothers you, do something about it, that’s what I did.

2kMaxim

Yeah...basically I'm just ****. Older cars that are "tricked out" in the performance category not the bling category ride a fine line IMO. If you go overboard on looks=lame.....if you go overboard on sound=lame. In my opinion I'm right on the line with sound....I would be totally ok with the sound if it was supercharged or something. But it's a hair too loud and stinky for say, dates......lol. The only thing I'm worried about is the fuel mix being rich if I ditch both precats. This wouldn't matter but if I'm gonna stick a cat downstream....I don't want it fouled quickly. Is this gonna make it so I have to get it tuned out with an SAFC? See...too many angles! Lol

D.Stillwell

Mine with the ypipe and gutted front cat definitely smells like *** anytime you go WOT.

But, it doesn't smell any other time except WOT.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

A Magnaflow Glasspack would solve your problem....

2kMaxim

Like a cherry bomb? I've actually seen those and wondered about them. In the muscle car days your car wasn't **it unless it had glasspacks Or so they tell me....

Jord61194

The rear precat is a royal *****. But they both make a difference. But as far as drone and rasp. I had no rasp at all till the hi flow catcat delete. And it only rasps at 3500. When everything is still warming up to running temp. And the drone started when I switched to 3" piping

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Cherrybomb glasspacks are louvered! Magnaflow glasspack are just slender space savings bullet type but with perforated cores not louvered!

2kMaxim

Haha..ok

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Louvered = terrible.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

When you ditch both precats, your car will be slightly lean because your car is breathing better. But the ECU, continually reading the O2s will adjust it back to slightly rich again. You would rather be slightly rich than slightly lean.

OEM injectors, no tuning necessary.

2kMaxim

Even with non foulers holding the sensors back from the stream?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Nope, the MAF is used for that (AFR’s). O2’s pretty much take care of idle and anything below 25 MPH and VERY low throttle angles. If we’ve learned anything in the past 15 years it’s that these are terribly rich from the factory as it is and still require AFR tuning even in stock form, even more so when modified.