Clutch Pedal Position Scale
06-26-2015, 06:45 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
Clutch Pedal Position Scale
I just purchased a 2002 Nissan Maxima SE ($3000 with fixes and purchase price, will post project details another time)
Since im new to this line of cars, i dont know what a regular/new clutch & pedal should feel like, so ill give a basic diagram describing the pedal feel from the position when its pressed all the way in to when its released.
Clutch feel:
1------2------------------3------4
1 - Floor
1-2 - Pedal has lots of resistance to get to the floor
2-3 - basically feels like a dead zone
3 - clutch feels like its finally catching
3-4 - clutch starts engaging
4 - full pedal release
can you guys tell me your pedal feel similar to above so i know how to compare?
Thanks in advance
Since im new to this line of cars, i dont know what a regular/new clutch & pedal should feel like, so ill give a basic diagram describing the pedal feel from the position when its pressed all the way in to when its released.
Clutch feel:
1------2------------------3------4
1 - Floor
1-2 - Pedal has lots of resistance to get to the floor
2-3 - basically feels like a dead zone
3 - clutch feels like its finally catching
3-4 - clutch starts engaging
4 - full pedal release
can you guys tell me your pedal feel similar to above so i know how to compare?
Thanks in advance
06-26-2015, 10:52 AM
#4
I did swap last year and the clutch on this thing seems to be a bit of a bear.
It requires moderate to heavy pressure to get to the floor. I did remove the stock clutch line contraption and just went with a straight SS line.
I adjusted my engagement. According to your scale: 1-2 dead zone. 2 mine starts to engage and by 3 it is the clutch is fully engaged.
It can be adjusted. Check the FSM to see how to adjust.
It requires moderate to heavy pressure to get to the floor. I did remove the stock clutch line contraption and just went with a straight SS line.
I adjusted my engagement. According to your scale: 1-2 dead zone. 2 mine starts to engage and by 3 it is the clutch is fully engaged.
It can be adjusted. Check the FSM to see how to adjust.
06-26-2015, 01:31 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
I did swap last year and the clutch on this thing seems to be a bit of a bear.
It requires moderate to heavy pressure to get to the floor. I did remove the stock clutch line contraption and just went with a straight SS line.
I adjusted my engagement. According to your scale: 1-2 dead zone. 2 mine starts to engage and by 3 it is the clutch is fully engaged.
It can be adjusted. Check the FSM to see how to adjust.
It requires moderate to heavy pressure to get to the floor. I did remove the stock clutch line contraption and just went with a straight SS line.
I adjusted my engagement. According to your scale: 1-2 dead zone. 2 mine starts to engage and by 3 it is the clutch is fully engaged.
It can be adjusted. Check the FSM to see how to adjust.
SS Line?
FSM?
06-26-2015, 02:01 PM
#7
Also please take the time and get the full stainless steel line replacement (It's about 2.5ft of tubing vs 6 inches). If you planning on doing this mod/maintenance.
Also what you're describing are the symptoms of a worn out clutch.
Also what you're describing are the symptoms of a worn out clutch.
06-27-2015, 10:38 AM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 26
My clutch pedal was like that too when i first got my maxima minus the heavy resistence. It grabbed really high and i thought that was normal. Within a year the clutch started slipping so to me it sounds like your clutch life is nearing its end maybe. After replacing the clutch. The clutch slave and master cylinders and installing the full stainless steel clutch line. Which is awesome btw for making bleeding alot easier. Now my pedal grabs closer to the floor with the right amount of resistence. I fine tuned it by adjusting the pedal under the dash but it takes alot of patience to adjust it just right.
06-27-2015, 11:15 AM
#13
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
adjust the position apparently, i need to drive it once the initial repairs are finished and get a feel for it, but i have a highly recommended transmission expert in my area, i wanted him to replace my clutch, but will ask him about the other things you guys have mentioned, ss line for sure.
06-27-2015, 11:52 AM
#15
Correct.
You have a clutch job coming up soon (one month? two years? Who knows! Only thing you can be sure of is that you are probably on the factory clutch still or a godawful autozone kit... The high engagement points to the final countdown towards clutch failure, the next sign is slipping in high gears)
A clutch job on this car?
A long night if you've done a clutch before.
A fun weekend if this is your first time.
or an expensive trip to the mechanic.
May we suggest going big and getting the JWT kit
, last you long time, and no more 40lb flywheel!
You have a clutch job coming up soon (one month? two years? Who knows! Only thing you can be sure of is that you are probably on the factory clutch still or a godawful autozone kit... The high engagement points to the final countdown towards clutch failure, the next sign is slipping in high gears)
A clutch job on this car?
A long night if you've done a clutch before.
A fun weekend if this is your first time.
or an expensive trip to the mechanic.
May we suggest going big and getting the JWT kit
, last you long time, and no more 40lb flywheel!
Last edited by aackshun; 06-27-2015 at 12:03 PM.
06-28-2015, 11:13 AM
#16
Correct.
You have a clutch job coming up soon (one month? two years? Who knows! Only thing you can be sure of is that you are probably on the factory clutch still or a godawful autozone kit... The high engagement points to the final countdown towards clutch failure, the next sign is slipping in high gears)
A clutch job on this car?
A long night if you've done a clutch before.
A fun weekend if this is your first time.
or an expensive trip to the mechanic.
May we suggest going big and getting the JWT kit, last you long time, and no more 40lb flywheel!
You have a clutch job coming up soon (one month? two years? Who knows! Only thing you can be sure of is that you are probably on the factory clutch still or a godawful autozone kit... The high engagement points to the final countdown towards clutch failure, the next sign is slipping in high gears)
A clutch job on this car?
A long night if you've done a clutch before.
A fun weekend if this is your first time.
or an expensive trip to the mechanic.
May we suggest going big and getting the JWT kit
, last you long time, and no more 40lb flywheel!Also, I wouldn't suggest a repair like this without a proper diagnosis. For all we know, the clutch may be relatively new.
* Do we know if the previous owner tried to adjust the pedal and failed?
* Do we know if someone replaced the clutch master and didn't bother to adjust it afterwards? I've seen professional shops do this.
My advise remains the same. Go hammer on it a little bit. If it'll bark the tires going into 2nd you're probably good for a while. Do the pedal adjustment and keep a big chunk of cash in your pocket.
If it slips, replace the clutch with the knowledge that you're not flushing away your money only to have the same issue with the pedal.
06-28-2015, 11:55 AM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
Correct.
You have a clutch job coming up soon (one month? two years? Who knows! Only thing you can be sure of is that you are probably on the factory clutch still or a godawful autozone kit... The high engagement points to the final countdown towards clutch failure, the next sign is slipping in high gears)
A clutch job on this car?
A long night if you've done a clutch before.
A fun weekend if this is your first time.
or an expensive trip to the mechanic.
May we suggest going big and getting the JWT kit, last you long time, and no more 40lb flywheel!
You have a clutch job coming up soon (one month? two years? Who knows! Only thing you can be sure of is that you are probably on the factory clutch still or a godawful autozone kit... The high engagement points to the final countdown towards clutch failure, the next sign is slipping in high gears)
A clutch job on this car?
A long night if you've done a clutch before.
A fun weekend if this is your first time.
or an expensive trip to the mechanic.
May we suggest going big and getting the JWT kit
, last you long time, and no more 40lb flywheel!Can you be more specific about the JWT Kit? link? product page? a place that sells it?
06-28-2015, 11:57 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
You may be correct but why rush into an expensive and time consuming repair if it's still working properly? As you said, it could last for years.
Also, I wouldn't suggest a repair like this without a proper diagnosis. For all we know, the clutch may be relatively new.
* Do we know if the previous owner tried to adjust the pedal and failed?
* Do we know if someone replaced the clutch master and didn't bother to adjust it afterwards? I've seen professional shops do this.
My advise remains the same. Go hammer on it a little bit. If it'll bark the tires going into 2nd you're probably good for a while. Do the pedal adjustment and keep a big chunk of cash in your pocket.
If it slips, replace the clutch with the knowledge that you're not flushing away your money only to have the same issue with the pedal.
Also, I wouldn't suggest a repair like this without a proper diagnosis. For all we know, the clutch may be relatively new.
* Do we know if the previous owner tried to adjust the pedal and failed?
* Do we know if someone replaced the clutch master and didn't bother to adjust it afterwards? I've seen professional shops do this.
My advise remains the same. Go hammer on it a little bit. If it'll bark the tires going into 2nd you're probably good for a while. Do the pedal adjustment and keep a big chunk of cash in your pocket.
If it slips, replace the clutch with the knowledge that you're not flushing away your money only to have the same issue with the pedal.
From what part of the car do you adjust the pedal?
06-28-2015, 12:50 PM
#19
It's under the dash at the pedal mechanism.
It's not a simple adjustment and it's a pain in the butt to reach. You can also cause problems if you go to far in either direction or don't leave enough play.
Your best bet is to search for a "how to" on this site or on Google. I could walk you through it but better writers than myself have already done the work. I'll be happy to answer specific questions though if you choose to try it.
It's not a simple adjustment and it's a pain in the butt to reach. You can also cause problems if you go to far in either direction or don't leave enough play.
Your best bet is to search for a "how to" on this site or on Google. I could walk you through it but better writers than myself have already done the work. I'll be happy to answer specific questions though if you choose to try it.
06-29-2015, 01:52 AM
#21
If you email them they will be very helpful. I love my JWT flywheel and clutch. Been running it for three years now and 60,000 miles. No issues at all.
06-29-2015, 06:42 AM
#22
You may be correct but why rush into an expensive and time consuming repair if it's still working properly? As you said, it could last for years.
Also, I wouldn't suggest a repair like this without a proper diagnosis. For all we know, the clutch may be relatively new.
* Do we know if the previous owner tried to adjust the pedal and failed?
* Do we know if someone replaced the clutch master and didn't bother to adjust it afterwards? I've seen professional shops do this.
My advise remains the same. Go hammer on it a little bit. If it'll bark the tires going into 2nd you're probably good for a while. Do the pedal adjustment and keep a big chunk of cash in your pocket.
If it slips, replace the clutch with the knowledge that you're not flushing away your money only to have the same issue with the pedal.
Also, I wouldn't suggest a repair like this without a proper diagnosis. For all we know, the clutch may be relatively new.
* Do we know if the previous owner tried to adjust the pedal and failed?
* Do we know if someone replaced the clutch master and didn't bother to adjust it afterwards? I've seen professional shops do this.
My advise remains the same. Go hammer on it a little bit. If it'll bark the tires going into 2nd you're probably good for a while. Do the pedal adjustment and keep a big chunk of cash in your pocket.
If it slips, replace the clutch with the knowledge that you're not flushing away your money only to have the same issue with the pedal.
A planned expensive repair?
Or having your car stuck in the road?
Because you chose to be ignorant about a pretty important repair item that has an unknown history and shows signs of being weak.
Not just talking out of my @$$, I've had clutches fail in cars that barked third on the day they died [Damn you OEM Nismo Japan products]
I've also driven a clutch that was showing the same signs that the OP is mentioning, and it could have lived a lot longer, but one mistake (Was a teenager, rookie days) and it was dead, could put the car in gear while running w/o the clutch dead.
Now on the flipside.
I'm not saying the OP should jump right into a clutch repair, this weekend, but saving away for it would be a great idea right now.
-Try the pedal adjustment... Which is so annoyingly hard I don't see why anyone in the their right mind would ever adjust it.
[Sidenote: People who replace the clutch master cylinder with a brand new one, tends to have high engagement and needs some adjustment]
-Try the full stainless line replacement... Great maintenance item, car should have came with it from the factory.
-Hell even replace the slave cylinder, haven't had one that was lazy or was weak, all of my slave cylinders worked 100% fine until the moment they failed.
Funny thing is if you plan on owning the car long enough, you'll end up doing all of these things
Last edited by aackshun; 06-29-2015 at 06:46 AM.
06-29-2015, 07:37 AM
#24
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 80
This will give him a great opportunity to judge the system as a whole, he's a good mechanic, had worked on my dads transmission on a big job and was very honest about it, charged for only parts when he saw the clutch, in such bad shape, but my dad wasnt able to pay for the labor at the time.
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