02 GLE Climate Control Problem
#1
02 GLE Climate Control Problem
I am having some issues with my climate control on my 02 GLE. So this is what is going on. My A/C and heating is not working correctly. When I turn it on A/C or heater on full blast it blows hot and cold air but it's very little. It will run for about 3-4 mins then shut off. My local mechanic took a look at it and hit it with the gauges to insure the refrigerant is full and it is. Since he doesn't work on A/C or heating that much he told me to take it to a place that specializes in it but I they want way too much just to look at it. What would be the next step to try and figure out what is going on?
#3
#4
It sounds like you have a fan problem. The bushings (bearings) in the fan motor are probably drying out and the motor is binding up and not spinning very fast.
Since the fan blower motor does work a little bit, you don't have an electrical problem. Just get a new blower motor and you will be good to go.
http://www.amazon.com/TYC-700050-Sub...+nissan+maxima
Since the fan blower motor does work a little bit, you don't have an electrical problem. Just get a new blower motor and you will be good to go.
http://www.amazon.com/TYC-700050-Sub...+nissan+maxima
#5
^^^+1
It sounds to me like your fan motor is out. I'm surprised you didn't hear any growling or other audible noise coming from the fan motor like mine did before it went out. I pretty sure the fan motor not working properly is a common problem in the 5th gen Max.
It's a very easy job to replace the fan motor.
It sounds to me like your fan motor is out. I'm surprised you didn't hear any growling or other audible noise coming from the fan motor like mine did before it went out. I pretty sure the fan motor not working properly is a common problem in the 5th gen Max.
It's a very easy job to replace the fan motor.
#6
Figured I'd post on this thread then make a new one.
I have the same problem he has. On full blast barely anything comes out the vents BUT according to the previous owner it's a new blower motor, When it's on full blast the blower motor is VERY loud, so I know it's spinning fast.
When I bought the car he had it all tore apart and broke the evaporator box, so I went to a junkyard and got a new one (Didn't know there was a difference in auto/manual climates) So I don't think I'll get my AC working but I just need heat. Gets to like -30 degrees up here...
I have the same problem he has. On full blast barely anything comes out the vents BUT according to the previous owner it's a new blower motor, When it's on full blast the blower motor is VERY loud, so I know it's spinning fast.
When I bought the car he had it all tore apart and broke the evaporator box, so I went to a junkyard and got a new one (Didn't know there was a difference in auto/manual climates) So I don't think I'll get my AC working but I just need heat. Gets to like -30 degrees up here...
#7
I wonder if the blower motor is actually new from a store or if it is new to the car from a junkyard. Saying that the fan is VERY loud, that is making me wonder. Of course the fan makes a noise, but I wouldn't call it VERY loud. I think the fan motor needs to be replaced.
#8
I mean the dude said he couldn't get it to work either so he got a "new" blower motor, not sure where or if he was even telling me the truth. So he took apart the evap box and broke that. But yea the motor is SOO loud, when it's on it's the only thing you can hear if it's on 4.
The motor looks pretty good yet.
The motor looks pretty good yet.
#9
Being inside the car and sheltered from the outside elements, the fan motor will always "look good". It is what is inside the motor that you can't see but need to be concerned about.
And don't get caught in the newbie trap of "it's new so it must be good". When you are troubleshooting a problem - EVERYTHING - is the potential problem.
And don't get caught in the newbie trap of "it's new so it must be good". When you are troubleshooting a problem - EVERYTHING - is the potential problem.
#11
SO I was just looking at new blower motors and realized that they have like a spot for a hose/tube? I either didn't have one or what but I DID NOT put that hose onto the new blower motor, Could that be the problem?
#12
To test the blower motor, take it out of the car. Spin the squirrel cage by hand and see if it turns freely, which it should Then wiggle the squirrel cage side to side, it should not. Make sure you have it motor held securely and jumper 12 volts to it. It should spin like a ****, without much noise.
That little hose is for air to blow in and cool the motor. The hose goes between the motor and the plenum chamber that the motor mounts in. It is needed in summer time when the blower is sucking in hot outside air.
That little hose is for air to blow in and cool the motor. The hose goes between the motor and the plenum chamber that the motor mounts in. It is needed in summer time when the blower is sucking in hot outside air.
#14
Finaly got them tests done.
The squirrel cage didn't move side to side at all. It turns pretty free, after you let go though, it only spins for a split second and you can faintly hear a "squeaky" noise when it spins.
The squirrel cage didn't move side to side at all. It turns pretty free, after you let go though, it only spins for a split second and you can faintly hear a "squeaky" noise when it spins.
#15
Turning freely without wiggle is good, but the squeak is not. The squeak is most likely the bushings (that are used in place of bearings) are beginning to lose their lubrication.
I expected the motor to be in worse shape than what it is. Check in the duct where the motor screws in and see if there is any debris in there like leaves or whatever. The loud noise the motor makes has me wondering. If there is no junk in the ducts, only the motor could be making the noise.
Is there a junkyard near you? For a couple of bucks you could get a motor to test with.
I expected the motor to be in worse shape than what it is. Check in the duct where the motor screws in and see if there is any debris in there like leaves or whatever. The loud noise the motor makes has me wondering. If there is no junk in the ducts, only the motor could be making the noise.
Is there a junkyard near you? For a couple of bucks you could get a motor to test with.
#16
It sounds like you have a fan problem. The bushings (bearings) in the fan motor are probably drying out and the motor is binding up and not spinning very fast.
Since the fan blower motor does work a little bit, you don't have an electrical problem. Just get a new blower motor and you will be good to go.
http://www.amazon.com/TYC-700050-Sub...+nissan+maxima
Since the fan blower motor does work a little bit, you don't have an electrical problem. Just get a new blower motor and you will be good to go.
http://www.amazon.com/TYC-700050-Sub...+nissan+maxima
Sorry for the late reply. Had to go out of state but back home now. So I took the car to a mechanic my friend knows and he took the glove box out and tried replacing the blower motor control module with a new one but it did the same thing. He also noticed that the plug that goes into it was all burnt up indicating there may be some kind of short in the electrical going to that module. He didn't have time to go any further into today but told me to come back next week. Any idea what I should check next?
#18
So I finally have time to work on this issue again. I removed the motor and checked if the shaft had any play and their was non. So I went ahead and tested the motor by hooking it up to a car battery and it spins just fine and not making any noises. The control unit seems to be working fine and I can defrost my rear window. What should I check next?
#19
One thing you guys need to learn is to tell us about your car and what options it has that are related to your problem. At least you stated that you had a 2002 gle, which is more than some people will do. However, that is not enough. Do you have the manual climate controls or the auto climate controls? Because you have the GLE model, I assume you probably have the auto climate control system. And if my assumption is correct, do you have the Nissan navigation system?
Since your answers haven't allowed me to pin point the exact cause of your problem, I would like you to run the built-in self diagnostic for the auto climate controls. Go to page 43 in the link below and follow the instructions for starting the diagnostic.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/HA.pdf
But in post # 16 you also made a statement that "the plug that goes into it was all burnt up" in regards to a mechanic changing "the blower motor control module". "Blower motor control module" is not an actual part name. Did the mechanic use the term "blower motor resistor" or "fan control amplifier"?
But the burnt up plug comment concerns me. Wires and connectors that are subjected to the high temperatures caused by a short can crystallize the metal and it looses its ability to conduct electricity. The metal also becomes brittle and breaks if you try to bend it.
Can you post a close-up photo of that plug?
Since your answers haven't allowed me to pin point the exact cause of your problem, I would like you to run the built-in self diagnostic for the auto climate controls. Go to page 43 in the link below and follow the instructions for starting the diagnostic.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/HA.pdf
But in post # 16 you also made a statement that "the plug that goes into it was all burnt up" in regards to a mechanic changing "the blower motor control module". "Blower motor control module" is not an actual part name. Did the mechanic use the term "blower motor resistor" or "fan control amplifier"?
But the burnt up plug comment concerns me. Wires and connectors that are subjected to the high temperatures caused by a short can crystallize the metal and it looses its ability to conduct electricity. The metal also becomes brittle and breaks if you try to bend it.
Can you post a close-up photo of that plug?
#20
Yes mine has the auto climate control. It was the blower motor resistor. He replaced it with a new one but still no go. I can post pic's in the morning of the plug he was talking about.
I will also do the self diagnostic from the PDF you have included and post what I got from it too.. Thanks for the help.
I will also do the self diagnostic from the PDF you have included and post what I got from it too.. Thanks for the help.
Last edited by dr3am; 10-20-2015 at 11:23 PM.
#22
One thing you guys need to learn is to tell us about your car and what options it has that are related to your problem. At least you stated that you had a 2002 gle, which is more than some people will do. However, that is not enough. Do you have the manual climate controls or the auto climate controls? Because you have the GLE model, I assume you probably have the auto climate control system. And if my assumption is correct, do you have the Nissan navigation system?
Since your answers haven't allowed me to pin point the exact cause of your problem, I would like you to run the built-in self diagnostic for the auto climate controls. Go to page 43 in the link below and follow the instructions for starting the diagnostic.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/HA.pdf
But in post # 16 you also made a statement that "the plug that goes into it was all burnt up" in regards to a mechanic changing "the blower motor control module". "Blower motor control module" is not an actual part name. Did the mechanic use the term "blower motor resistor" or "fan control amplifier"?
But the burnt up plug comment concerns me. Wires and connectors that are subjected to the high temperatures caused by a short can crystallize the metal and it looses its ability to conduct electricity. The metal also becomes brittle and breaks if you try to bend it.
Can you post a close-up photo of that plug?
Since your answers haven't allowed me to pin point the exact cause of your problem, I would like you to run the built-in self diagnostic for the auto climate controls. Go to page 43 in the link below and follow the instructions for starting the diagnostic.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2002/HA.pdf
But in post # 16 you also made a statement that "the plug that goes into it was all burnt up" in regards to a mechanic changing "the blower motor control module". "Blower motor control module" is not an actual part name. Did the mechanic use the term "blower motor resistor" or "fan control amplifier"?
But the burnt up plug comment concerns me. Wires and connectors that are subjected to the high temperatures caused by a short can crystallize the metal and it looses its ability to conduct electricity. The metal also becomes brittle and breaks if you try to bend it.
Can you post a close-up photo of that plug?
#23
Thanks for the photos. On the burned connector, that connector was on a fan motor that burned up. The black stuff that you are probably thinking is dirt is smoke from the fire. Being inside the car and hidden up in the corner of the dash, that connector never gets dirty.
I can't see the metal contacts clear enough to be 100% certain, but I think that connector should be replaced. Seeing this photo combined with you having removed the motor and connecting it to the battery is making me think that the connector is no good. Visit a junk yard and cut one off of a car there.
On the other photo of the control panel, it has everything illuminated. It sounds like you are saying that you don't have the dash light. Off the top of my head, I don't know how that works. I'll have to go look at my car.
I can't see the metal contacts clear enough to be 100% certain, but I think that connector should be replaced. Seeing this photo combined with you having removed the motor and connecting it to the battery is making me think that the connector is no good. Visit a junk yard and cut one off of a car there.
On the other photo of the control panel, it has everything illuminated. It sounds like you are saying that you don't have the dash light. Off the top of my head, I don't know how that works. I'll have to go look at my car.
#24
Thanks for the photos. On the burned connector, that connector was on a fan motor that burned up. The black stuff that you are probably thinking is dirt is smoke from the fire. Being inside the car and hidden up in the corner of the dash, that connector never gets dirty.
I can't see the metal contacts clear enough to be 100% certain, but I think that connector should be replaced. Seeing this photo combined with you having removed the motor and connecting it to the battery is making me think that the connector is no good. Visit a junk yard and cut one off of a car there.
On the other photo of the control panel, it has everything illuminated. It sounds like you are saying that you don't have the dash light. Off the top of my head, I don't know how that works. I'll have to go look at my car.
I can't see the metal contacts clear enough to be 100% certain, but I think that connector should be replaced. Seeing this photo combined with you having removed the motor and connecting it to the battery is making me think that the connector is no good. Visit a junk yard and cut one off of a car there.
On the other photo of the control panel, it has everything illuminated. It sounds like you are saying that you don't have the dash light. Off the top of my head, I don't know how that works. I'll have to go look at my car.
As for the control panel the FSM states there should be a circular light that should be on left of the "Auto" on the display. I don't know if my model has this light and never noticed it before as I've only had the car a year. I'll post an update in the morning after I change the plug to the blower motor with pics of how I did it too. Thanks for all the help. I really do appreciate it as I use this car to save gas for commuting.
Last edited by dr3am; 10-21-2015 at 11:37 PM.
#26
Idk.. didn't have time today to replace the connector to the blower motor. The FSM states clearly a dot should be there but no conformation yet. I have time tomorrow to do the connector to see if it may fix the problem.
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