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P0455 p0440

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Old 09-04-2015, 05:57 PM
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P0455 p0440

Hey guys I'm getting both these codes indicating a leak in the evap system. Canister and hoses look fine but I have had the p0440 before due to a leaky gas cap. Went away after replacing it but my gas "opening" (not sure what to call that) is a little corroded and I'm wondering if that could be causing the gross evap leak indicated by the p0455. If not I saw a lot of people have issues with the evap control valve on the back of the evap canister. Anyone have any experience with this?
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Old 09-04-2015, 11:42 PM
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The EVAP system can be a headache because it has so many possibilities. The EVAP canister vent control valve is a common problem. Take the EVAP canister vent control valve off and see if the plunger inside it moves.

The gas cap is another one (the "opening" it screws into is called the filler tube). If you live in the snowbelt where the salt corrodes everything, the filler tube may have holes rusted into it from the road spray. Since you see some corrosion where the gas cap seats, look in behind the wheel.
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:59 AM
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Thanks Dennis. This car is becoming a headache in general, I'm at the end of my rope. What does one even do if there are holes in the filler tube?
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:21 AM
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The filler tube is a replaceable part, although the cost at the dealer is ridiculous, list price of $231, on-line $174. Body shops probably have other, less expensive non-Nissan sources, but I don't of any.

If the filler tube has holes, it should be replaced. Depending on the condition of the tube, if it had tiny pin holes you could get a can of spray undercoating and spray the tube to seal the holes. I would consider this for testing purposes as any holes would probably get larger. You could also wrap the pipe with fiberglass, but it is messy and a lot of work for a pipe that is rotting.

Also worth checking is the rubber tubing that connects the pipe to the gas tank and also the the tubing for various piping that also connects to the tank.

Here is a link to a parts diagram for a 2001 to give you an idea of the pieces involved. I looked at the part numbers for the 2001 and the 2003 filler tubes and they are different but the drawing looks the same.

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...agram=172_A001
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:51 PM
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Is it not recommended to go aftermarket? A Google search for the part brings up some results for filler tubes between 90-115. Granted I haven't even checked to see if that is the issue yet.
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by dcam0326
Is it not recommended to go aftermarket? A Google search for the part brings up some results for filler tubes between 90-115. Granted I haven't even checked to see if that is the issue yet.
Not sure about aftermarket parts, but for what this stuff is, I can't imagine they would hurt. The evap system is such a pain, and for what it's worth, if you can deal with the codes popping up, I would just leave it alone if you can't figure it out. I've had the minor leak evap code for almost 6 years and continue to ignore them, though code clearing is very easy for me. Every once in a while, it will give me multiple evap codes, but it's not really anything I'm concerned about anymore.

Maybe one day I'll go pull the stuff apart, but it's 0 priority. Nothing is lost but an insanely minuet amount of gas mileage. I recommend saving that money for gas itself, or another potential repair.
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:30 AM
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He can ignore codes as long as his state will let him pass an inspection with the check engine light on.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
He can ignore codes as long as his state will let him pass an inspection with the check engine light on.
That's a really good point. Spaced my mind.
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:26 AM
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Thanks for all the input guys.

Unfortunately Connecticut fails you if your SES is on no questions asked. At least they don't do sniffing/vis inspection.

edt: Update; The vent control valve works fine. I performed this test, skip to around 2:15 :

Valve allows air through when it should and stops it when it shouldn't. The filler tube also appears to have no corrosion whatsoever it even looks newer possibly, but the mouth of the tube is quite corroded.

I'm also in the process of testing that the harness is in fact supplying power but I'm having trouble getting a reading. I should only have to touch the multimeter tips to one of the terminals on the plug below right? Because I've touched everywhere and can't seem to get a reading with the key in the on position.


I tried using a very basic tester thing that lights up a red LED when grounded and touched to the positive battery terminal. It didn't light up when touching (virtually every possible place on) the harness plug.

Last edited by dcam0326; 09-07-2015 at 09:08 AM.
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