Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi

Hello all,

I'm in Houston. I have this 2000 maxima that has been flooded. This maxima's ECU is totally fried. There was a really bad flood this past summer of 2015. I am looking for a local shop that can help me with this issue before I go to the dealership. They want $800 for a blank ECU and $200 to reprogram it. No I cannot claim this on my insurance. No plan for flooding

I did some research and found out that you can swap the ECU with a junkyard one and reprogram it with a consult 3 OBD tool (about $300+). You also need a consult 3 security card for the immobilizer which is another $500. I found this out the hard way cause I couldn't find any info about this. Nobody said anything about a security card.

For the sake of experimenting, I bought one off Ebay for like $300. At this time I did not know about the consult 3 security card thing. The consult 3 tool is pretty pricey but I was like, hey this will work out. BTW you need an XP running computer. So I used virtual box to install XP on my windows 7 computer. Only way to get this done.

After jumping through some hoops to install virtual box, then windows xp and then the consult 3 software I was like "time to wreck this sh*t." I felt like a pro. I went through the adding the VI part (not sure what that even is, I just went with the flow), then the vin and vehicle info and everyting goes smoothly through out this part. The consult 3 communicates with the swapped ECU just fine. I get to the immobilizer and keys programming screen then it asks me to "insert security card." I'm just sitting there dumb founded and confused.

I did some more research and found out that you need to use this damn security card thing along with a consult 3 ECU tool. They go from anywhere to $500 to $800. Some even $1000. You need to have a PCI-E port which I don't have on my laptop. However, you can easily find the security card with an adapter for USB. On Ebay those go for like $540. Not bad but this thing is waaaaaaaaay over priced. Its just a damn chip thing. How complicated can it be that it has to be this much?

I don't have any money for this, but I was so close. Damn I might as well go to dealership and get this done. They are asking about the same amount of money for what I need to spend on tools for. Only difference is that I would have all the tools. Only fear is that I don't even know if I can do it this way. No one has given any clear information on this on any forum.

I am currently looking for a nissan performance shop here in houston. Hopefully they have these cool gadgets and can help me reprogram the ecu for less.

Another thing is that the dealership also told me that "no a used ECU will not work, you need to buy a blank ECU." I am not sure if they are trying to sell me a $800 ECU or are really telling me the truth. I think that is such BS. But I fear that it may be true and my efforts in finding someone to help me reprogram this ECU will go to waste.

In some further research, I found out that I also need some code on the BCM that the used ECU was paired with. I am not sure how accurate this is.

Some advice in this matter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I wouldn't buy any more stuff/tools. It's a total gamble if it will work in the end.

Any reputable shop should have a Consult 3 or just any ol' high end scan tool/diagnostic tool that will be able to program your ECU/keys with ease. You'll just need to call around. I bet you can get this done for under $150.

Don't forget the locksmith option. Some (not all) have the high end tools to program new keys to the ECU. You'll have to call around as well and do some research.

maxiiiboy

Good advice.

I would just add: Get the VIN number of your car. Then, go to courtesyparts.com website and find the serial # of the ECU. Then, make sure you have the right ECU. Only then, have it programmed. The $200 the dealer is asking for is not that bad ... if you shop around, you might be able to save a few dollars, but not much.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Buy nissan datascan II and give the finger to every shop, especially dealers. It takes less than 30 sec to program a key.
It's 50 bucks with the Aussie dollar being so low. You can get a cheap vag com kkl cable off amazon/ebay.

Also, use a 2001 ecu, so EGR is gone.

I just swapped the ecu in my 5.5. It's so easy that Forrest Gump can do it.

The stealership is trying to scam you. That is their business. You should prompty tell them to **** off to their faces.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ey-reprog.html

Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi

Thanks to all for replying.

Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi

Yea I was thinking of that but was unsure about it. Considering how big this forum is, I was hoping a Houstonian would come across it. Haha a total shot in the dark. I'll call around as you suggested. I should be able to find some one.

Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi

Well as far as I've learned from research, an ecu swap requires programming.

Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi

Good advice. The vag kkl cable, is there one specially for Nissan or does the Nissan Data scan take care of that?

If you could give me links to the software to buy, that would be awesome.

On the vag kkl cable, this is what I found:
http://m.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=va...qp=vag+com+kkl


They all say VW or Audi. Im thinking that this wouldn't matter since the Nissan Data scan 2 will be running on my laptop. Correct me if im wrong.

Also, there is no immobilizer security card or something similar involved?

Thanks

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

http://www.nissandatascan.com/

That is the right cable. Blazt cables also work. I got mine off amazon in case I needed to return it easily (some cheapos come broken or don't work from what I hear)
Nothing else is required.

Plug in the cable to the laptop, install the driver (not from the CD), then check the com port in device manager (this can change, so if datascan doesn't connect later, that's why). Change the com port in data scan settings to the correct one and it should connect. Sometimes I had to click it a few times, but it works. If you need help, here's a guide http://www.totalcardiagnostics.com/s...ble-on-windows
Here's a driver mirror that I uploaded just in case (there's a link in the tutorial) http://www.mediafire.com/download/zt...USB-Driver.rar

Click work support, enter the the pin 5523, click program and follow the very simple instructions.

I used the cheapest ebay keys I could find. I can xpost this into the other thread if people want me to.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

2000 might be different than 1999, but a reputable and knowledgeable member couldn't get datascan to work and reprogram the keys.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I thought I've read online about it being doing it on 5.0 gens... I could be wrong. FWIW, A33 VQ30 is listed under supported vehicles (not that there aren't exclusions to some models/years)
A32s are not listed as supported.

I can test this thurs/fri. I'm going to get keys cut for a 2001 and will use datascan.

Omar Abdurrahman Siddiqi

Dude thanks a lot. I'll let you know if it works out for me.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Just did 3 keys on the '01.

The 1st time I used win 8 x64 and the driver installed fine. This time I used win 7 x64 and windows refused to install it b/c it thinks it's the wrong driver (how this is possible idk...device IDs...).

I let windows update install it and was good to go.

DuaLMaGz

Hate to gravedig an old thread but I am really trying to get some more clarification on key programming for these 5th gens. My situation is a little unique, however, similar.
I have a 2006 Sentra with the VQ in it. The person who built the swap used the ECU from a 00-02 Maxima (not sure how to identify what year it's from), along with the IMMU, and engine wiring. I lost the only key a few weeks ago and thought it would turn up by now but it hasn't.
I bought and cut two new keys already I am just unsure of how I want to get them programmed. I would prefer to do it myself but don't know what software I would need or if that vag com or blazt cable would work. All of the "consult-II" scan tool adapters I see online show to support up to 2000 models.
I tried contacting Omar to see if was ever able to program his key but I haven't heard back from him.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

You might be best served by calling a local mobile locksmith and explaining the situation to them. Not all of them will be able to do it but a lot will. They may not need to know the exact year of the ECU to do it. I asked a locksmith our shop does business with and they can do it for between 40-80 dollars. That was the retail price.

There's no simple 00-03 ECU. There were about 12 different ECUs in 2002 alone separated by date and configuration. There's a code marked on the case but I don't know how to read it. If you post a picture of the top someone here may be able to read it. I don't think this is all that important to your case so I'm just sharing info. I'm guessing it's a 3.5 swap and the ECU would be an 02 or 03. That should be plenty of info to give a mobile locksmith.

DuaLMaGz

Yeah I know there are several different ECU's from that year I was just saying mine is a 5th gen but don't know the exact year. I tried calling around but only got ahold of 1 locksmith and he wanted $165 to do it! That is just outrageous..

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

That is very high. Keep calling around. The prices on this type of service can vary greatly between shops.

Many independent repair shops will be able to do it too. Our shop has two different machines that can do in a few minutes.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

3.5 swap... 02-03...use nds2

DuaLMaGz

Okay, thanks!

maxipriest777

I'm trying NDSII. However. I can't even get the FTDI drivers, or, the VAG-COMM
cable drivers to install.

I'm running Windows 7 Professional SP1 32bit version.
Does anyone have a similar experience ?

Or. Those that have successfully installed the drivers and NDSII,
what version of Windows are you using.

Thanks.

DuaLMaGz

Try using a different USB port and when you plug the cable in allow windows to "search for an available driver." If that doesn't work then you can scroll up the thread and you will see where a link for the driver was posted. Download that, install, and then next it pops up asking to install the driver click "browse for driver" and just select your "c:/" drive and hit continue. Might take a minute but should work.
Everything worked for me and I was able to program 2 keys with it.

Edit: make sure you aren't using the CD that came with the cable.

maxipriest777

Thanks for quick response. However. After trying the tips that you gave, for, most all of today. It still doesn't work.

Windows 7, continues to give me the error message "Windows failed to find software drivers for your device, USB-Serial.

That happens, whether or not, I chose to search locally on C:\ or, let Windows do an on-line search.

I have installed all drivers referenced in this thread, with no change in results.
I have used multiple different USB ports, even taken the cable and drivers over
to a sys admin guy that was running on Windows 8 on his laptop. With the same result as I had. At this point. The only common denom. Is the cable !!!

Also. I tried installing the drivers on Win7 32bit/Win7 64bit, Win8 32bit. All failed.
I'll try a new cable from ebay.

Thanks again.
I'm thinking there must be a problem with the cable.

DuaLMaGz

Don't give up just yet. Okay, before installing the driver right click the file and go to properties. Under " compatibility " select the box and click the one that says Windows XP (service pack 3) I think.

maxipriest777

Look what I just found in the ebay store, from which I purchased my VAG Cable.
That info, is from other buyers. I wish I would have seen that first.

Might not work?
Couple things to look out for. The install disk comes in a small form factor that pretty much any modern disk drive can not use. So your forced to download the software elsewhere. Second I've tried on multiple lap tops and my desktop to get the drivers to install for the cable to work. Even following the instructions on the vag-com site I've had no luck saving some scratch wasn't worth it just by legit vagcom and save yourself the headache.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: new | Sold by: thesiliconvalley

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by adaada-zthpew Apr 28, 2016
never works
this product will not work, the USB connector does not work, the driver can not be installed on the laptop with windows 7 just throw my money away
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: new | Sold by: thesiliconvalley

DuaLMaGz

What does he mean by "legit" vagcom? What cable did you buy? This is the one that I bought and would recommend.

maxipriest777

I bought the exact same one from ebay.

Exact same cable.

maxipriest777

Update.
I found the correct driver for the 409.1 cable that I purchased off ebay.
Installed the driver for the cable. Windows7 now recognizes the USB-Serial device,
at port 05. Used that as the port# in the NDSII communication settings.
But. NDSII fails to connect to connect to my Maxima.

The moral of this story is. How good/bad the NDSII stuff works, is, all dependent on
the connection cable being used.

I'm pretty sure that this point, the 409.1 cable that I purchased is not going to work
with with NDSII

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Did you you check "generic cable" b/c it's on blazt cable by default.

Those blue cables appear to be all the same. Unless it's defective, it will work and the driver I posted should work.

maxipriest777

Those blue cabled may LOOK all the same, but, are definitely. NOT. All the same. Some have the FTDI chipset in them, others, do no not.

I appreciate the pointers to the drivers that you posted. But. They do not work
with this cable.

Yes. I checked the Generic cable check box. I'm pretty confident in saying, that the only cable that will work with NDSII, are cables with the FTDI chipset.
In the NDSII owners manual, the two references to cables are, BlazeII, and, FTDI
Chipped cables.

For others who may be having the same dilemma.
Here are the correct drivers for this 409.1 cheapee cable,
as given to me, by the ebay seller.

Here is the link of the driver for you:
http://download.nsioutlet.com/LK-1194.rar


If you couldn't open rar file, please download this file for assistance
http://download.thesiliconvalley.net/wrar351.exe



On a side note. VDS-Lite will work with this cable, and, drivers

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

You have CH341SER. Mine are CH340. It should work, anyway. It's just usb to serial.

maxipriest777

I haven't opened this cable.
It's on it's way back to the ebay seller.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

BTW, depending on cable, usb chipset and whether NDS2 feels like working, sometimes you have to click connect several times.

Unless the cables are actually defective, they'll work. The chip is pretty irrelevant as tons of ppl have bought them for their pos VWs lol. The protocol is what's important. Simply don't install the FTDI driver if the chip supports it.
Yep, just checked amazon, people are using that chip with NDS2.

maxipriest777

I hear what you're saying, about the Cable/Driver should be irrelevant, the only thing that matters, is, the protocol. However. That appears not to the case, in, this, case.

I tried clicking connect, at least a dozen or so times. I'm going to spend a little more $,
to get the correct cable. After all. That, is, what's referenced in the users manual.