maxinout93

so recently i replaced the coolant tank, since the old one had small holes in it and some blockage from the tank to the radiator. Replaced the radiator cap and now i have heat at idle, but i did a diagnostic on the climate control system and got a code 25. Now the climate control system is acting weird, i turn it on manual 90 degrees fan speed on 4. I get no air from the vents until much later and it keeps doing this, today i smelled a melted plastic smell coming out the vents, so i suspect something went out with the blower motor or its components. smh

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Code 25 or -25 is the sunload sensor located on the left end of the passenger side defroster vent. If you ran this test at night or in a garage that wasn't very well lit up, this would be normal.

The fan problem is one of 2 things, either the fan control amplifier or the fan motor itself.

To test for which one it is, first go under the hood to the fuse block by the battery and check that the 2 fuses (15 amp) at the end towards the front of the car labeled "BLOWER MTR" are good.

Then unplug the 3 wire connector from the fan control amplifier. In the wire harness connector that you unplugged is a thick blue with white stripe wire. This wire is from the fan motor. Turn the ignition switch to ON position (you don't have to start the engine if you don't want to), and ground this thick blue with white stripe wire. Be prepared to see a spark, the fan draws 20 amps or so.

The fan should run at full speed as soon as you ground the wire. If it doesn't, the fan motor is bad. If the fan runs, then the fan control amplifier is bad.

WARNING: If you end up replacing the fan control amplifier, DO NOT leave it hanging out by the wires and turn the fan on. The the amplifier gets very hot and will burn up in a few seconds if it doesn't have air blowing on it.

maxinout93

[QUOTE=DennisMik;9082684]Code 25 or -25 is the sunload sensor located on the left end of the passenger side defroster vent. If you ran this test at night or in a garage that wasn't very well lit up, this would be normal.

The fan problem is one of 2 things, either the fan control amplifier or the fan motor itself.

To test for which one it is, first go under the hood to the fuse block by the battery and check that the 2 fuses (15 amp) at the end towards the front of the car labeled "BLOWER MTR" are good.

Then unplug the 3 wire connector from the fan control amplifier. In the wire harness connector that you unplugged is a thick blue with white stripe wire. This wire is from the fan motor. Turn the ignition switch to ON position (you don't have to start the engine if you don't want to), and ground this thick blue with white stripe wire. Be prepared to see a spark, the fan draws 20 amps or so.

The fan should run at full speed as soon as you ground the wire. If it doesn't, the fan motor is bad. If the fan runs, then the fan control amplifier is bad.

WARNING: If you end up replacing the fan control amplifier, DO NOT leave it hanging out by the wires and turn the fan on. The the amplifier gets very hot and will burn up in a few seconds if it doesn't have air blowing on it.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the reply, I checked the fuses and both were good, it seems it may be the fan control amplifier because the fan was working fine, it just stopped coming on unless i turn it all the way on 4, then it comes on like 5 or ten minutes later full blast lol. But what do you mean by not leaving it hanging by the wires? Is it inside of a vent or something?

maxinout93

well the problem ended up being the blower motor itself, amazing how it can be working perfect one day then/ stop all togather. I thought the blower was fine until i got a burning rubber/ plastic smell again through the vents today/ very intermittent to no operation/ and it would only blow on 1st setting then started to make noise. I went to the junk yard and got a fan amplifier/ and blower motor. I installed the fan amp first/ nothing happend, then installed the blower motor, it works like new now!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear you solved the problem.

I was leaning towards the motor because fan control amplifiers usually work or they don't work. The amplifier is a transistor and transistors work or they blow out like a light bulb. But there is always an oddball one.

maxinout93

yeah man thanks for your help, definitly need heat around this time of the year.