dcam0326

2001 SE automatic. Transmission has been acting funky (shifting hard at the top of second and third, especially uphill). Just recently I noticed the RPMs jumping up and down on the highway, even with cruise control on. It only happens between 2500-3000 rpms. I can feel it happening. I can't tell **** from the dipstick on this car so I'm not sure what to think about the fluid level. From the dipstick it seems high but I don't think that is accurate. Here's a video, I have CC on in this video.



I'm gonna drop the pan next weekend and clean the sludge/check for metal then just do a drain and fill. Hopefully that helps but has anyone ever experienced this issue? I'm reading it could be the torque converter locking and unlocking wrong. I can't afford transmission service!

maxinout93

how fast are you going? are you on a hill? I assume its the torque conver locking unlocking based on speed ect.

Cotozic

Yeah, I didn't notice anything abnormal.

dcam0326

I was going appx 70 mph on a flat surface. This was mild. Occasionally it will do this 10 times in a row jumping up and down. Its almost always around 2800 rpm or so.

Edit: transmission just slipped when catching 2nd gear going uphill. That is a first for me

maxiiiboy

Drop the pan, clean the magnets, and do three consecutive "drain-and-fills". Three repetitions are needed to replace 99% of your AT fluid. Then, install a grounding kit (you can get one cheap from one of the members, just search). Your shifting should be as smooth as butter then; if not, you may need solenoids or perhaps the transmission was damaged by the previous owner.

dcam0326

That's the plan for this weekend, drain and fill the first time and clean the pan. What exactly does the grounding kit help with? I'm reading that it helps voltage when your car is using more from having something like a more demanding audio system.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

TC locking and unlocking?

Don't drain and fill unless you want to waste money. Take off the cooler hose and pump all of the old **** out.

maxiiiboy

My own explanation is that the more stable your power distribution is, the better for all the electronics in your car. Both your shifting points and shifting behavior are controlled by input from many sensors; sensor inputs are voltages that depend on the power distribution quality (voltage supplied, parasitic resistance, etc.). In addition, shifting mechanics itself is controlled by the quality of power applied to the shifting solenoids. From my own experience, both shifting and throttle response improved considerably after I installed my grounding kit.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I believ you and I have the same issue. I too posted a video and there was none who could help. Mine actually happens in a rhythm with maybe just a second between the rise and drop in rpm.
I've found I can shift out of drive into 3rd and it still does it. So I dont think its in the tranny. Or maybe it is, but perhaps a solenoid issue or even in the tcm, though I think it would happen more consistently for me if that was the case. I can't say for sure, but it almost seems like its a throttle body issue, as if it has a hard time reading my throttle position or perhaps the butterfly is pulsating. Of course, yours is not likely TB related since its cable actuated.

I only have this happen when temps are cool to cold or when its raining. Goes away after car is warmed up.

BTW, I have a Shinjiduo ground kit, HD2 kit, and running Amsoil. My symptoms existed both before and after these mods.

Its hard for me to navigate on my mobile. Search for posts by me in this forum to find that thread. I'm sure I added a video. Be nice to do a more formal comparison.

BronxSleeperMax187

I'm sure you must have A code by now, you did not tell us....sounds like A p0744 IMO. Let us know? You might have to change the Solenoids, that might still not fix the problem 100% but will help atleast. Had same problem and got worse, did the whole drain and refill and made it worse, ordered some solenoids and now it good but at times it does it again but rarely....car is old and might just ride it till its dead for good lol.....6speed next

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Here is the thread.
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ny-thread.html

No solution. Originally concluded normal but it has continued and if truly "normal," then everyone would experience this.
I have never had a code. Not got better or worse. Seems directly temp related and always stops after car has warmed. I recall doing some research on the Quest and they have a similaar issue which has been linked to the tcm, supposedly.

Given at least one member can confirm replacing solenoid pack and didn't resolve, is say it likely comes down to Tq Conv. Or TCM. I e got used to it, anymore its moderately annoying only half the time. Still would like to know the problem.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Definitely sounds TC related (but perhaps through fault of the TCM). TC shouldn't lock until it warms up.

dcam0326

Thanks for all the good responses guys. I'll look into the grounding kit since that's a cheap way to throw money at the problem Lol

That's the one that runs into the radiator at the base right? I recall when I replaced my radiator it was leaking a dark brown colored tranny fluid (which is not the actual color of my fluid. Could that indicate a clog?

Damn that is scary close to what I'm experiencing, except that I have an occasional slip between first and second gear.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Correct. The driver's side hose is the return. I take it off and run the engine till fluid flow sputters (so it doesn't run the pump dry). At least 6 quarts should come out. I then fill up the pan (4 qts) and have someone shift through the gears until the color changes or at least a couple quarts if using a dark fluid. Fill it again, shift through gears and check level. Add 10 oz of lubegard ATF treatment.

If it was a slow leak perhaps dirt contaminated it. Idk how it would become clogged without a stupid amount of neglect.

I don't think it's worth spending lots of cash on expensive fluid for old trannies that have issues, but Idemitsu type J or HP is available for a reasonable price (I believe this is what nissan relabels). 10 qts for $56 on ebay.
If you're really cheap, then you could just use walmart dexron with the ATF treatment lol

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

The HD2 resolved my 1-2 slip.

Hard shifts can be a symptom of bad/blown engine mounts.

dcam0326

So my plan is to start from the bottom and work my way up

- Drain old fluid out through cooler hose, and refill + add lubeguard
- Install grounding kit
If those don't make any difference
- Try junkyard TCM (not worth buying one brand new at this point)

If none of that works
- Find a tall bridge
- Maybe transgo kit?

Like I said I really only need this car to survive another year or two. This damn car... this problem didn't even begin until the *day after* I finally replaced my radiator support after putting it off for almost a year.

Will update when I do the repairs!

I know for a fact my front engine mount is shot... like... really bad. I should have just done it when I fixed the rad support but I was broke and didn't want to shell out for it just yet.

Will update when I do the repairs!

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

I think changing the fluid is fine, but I wouldn't spend top dollar on Amsoil or anything at this time. Primarily because it is highly unlikely it's as simple an issue as the fluid. If you end up going HD2, you're just going to have to change the fluid again.

I think the other problem with your list is that you plan to spend money where I am confident it just won't help. Ground kits are great, but they are really only a band aid for issues a car is already having, not a fix/solution. The kit really just helps with bad grounds that have appeared over time and with age. Remember, I have HD2 and a ground kit and it did not resolve my issue.

I say this because you said you have limited funds. Here is my opinion on what your list should look like.
1. Replace motor mounts (maintenance first!!) Won't resolve rpm issue, but is necessary so that additional damage/problems don't occur.
2. Try a cheap junk yard TCM.
3. Replace shift solenoids.

3.5. IF and ONLY if you have the money, when you do the solenoids, THIS is the perfect time to install the HD2 and change fluid to Amsoil. Just makes the most sense and saves you labor and materials.

Just my opinion, for what it's worth.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

No need to spend money on mounts. Pump that **** full of urethane. But it does take a couple days to dry.

dcam0326

Can't really afford to have the car out of commission for a few days between school and work. What do you think about just putting in manual motor mounts? They seem relatively cheap and they're a direct fit as I'm reading, but some people seem to have severe vibration at idle and other people say it's very minor. I'd assume the brand of the mount has an impact on the difference in vibration?

For the record I'm looking at these http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.1114

But I'm confused as to what I'm looking at. Are these fitted into the housing of the electric mounts after gutting out the rubber part? Do they need to be placed in with a machine press or something?

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Those are inserts that you press into the housing after removing all of the rubber and liquid (I like to use fire LOL). I have them and they're wonderful for 6 speed. Vibration is slight at idle. I didn't install them (were already on the car), but I imagine they're like any ES bushing. Put them in the deep freeze, then slide em in with grease and a mallet.

dcam0326

Well that makes it simple since there's no more liquid in my mounts

I'm reading that the diameter on the housing of the SE and GLE mounts is larger than a GXE and using GXE housing is better. Why can't they just sell an assembly!?

Btw I'm basing that off this review on the site:

So it seems like just the front mount? But it also seems like it should fit anyway, just that a GXE front housing is recommended.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I don't know. Autos suck, so not my thing

If you want to go to the junkyard, I would get both mounts, gut and fill with window weld and replace at your convenience. Cheap, effective and no down time.

dcam0326

When you do your mounts like that do you just cure it solid then drill through it after so you can fit it in place?

BronxSleeperMax187

Don't do it IMO....ebay non electric ones are 80 shipped for all 4 mounts, had em for couple months now in NYC pot hole city and beat the life outta this car at times.....put some of that window weld to see how long it holds up in cracks between mounts .....within A week or two that crap was falling out like soft rubber after being hard as hell...imagine if I would have gutted them and filled only with weld

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

You didn't do it right, imo. I've cheated and only filled in the gaps and cracks before (squirted into every little crack). I cleaned the **** out of them with carb cleaner and cut out the loose rubber piece. Then, I filled them up with window weld (3M brand) AND added a thick layer on the outsides. They've held up fine and I only let them half dry before installing them.

And I've done a complete fill, too. 1.5 yrs on these.

Maybe you need a full cure before instantly beating the **** out of it. That stuff dries very slowly.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I guess you could do it that way, but I'm lazy.

I layed them on their side and used the rubber flap that came on the mount as backing and filled them while having the metal insert in the center.

It doesn't have to be in there perfectly straight or centered. One of mine is noticeably tilted, but it boltedup with no issue.