Its been a long time! Status update/Motor mounts
02-02-2016, 07:01 AM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
Its been a long time! Status update/Motor mounts
Whats up guys, It's been forever but I just wanted to stop by and say hello. Im still pushing my 2k and it's at 218xxx right now.
I wish I could say everything is perfect, but I think I've reached the point where I need to start driving like a normal, calm human being to see how many miles I can get out of it. When you're all tuned up with coilovers and good brakes etc etc you have a tendency to be a bit harder on your car. I feel like its smart for me to start playing nice now that she's old.
On a side note....a little word of advice for those of you who are doing the motor mount swap we all eventually have to do. I did mine 2-3 years ago and i decided to go with the cheaper ebay mounts vs expensive OEM like a lot of people do.
DO NOT FOOL YOURSELF...THESE ARE NOT THE SAME QUALITY AS OEM MOUNTS.......
I got a good couple years out of mine, but the rubber is cracked in my main front mount now, and my passenger side mount is stretched further back than it should be...so now im going to be forced to do them again with OEM mounts one by one as I can afford them on my car which has 218k. For now Im not stressing it too much, im just deciding to drive gentler. I have no idea if having coilovers etc helped to wear them out quicker but my OEM ones lasted 150k+ miles before being really crappy....these lasted more like 30-40k.
I wish I could say everything is perfect, but I think I've reached the point where I need to start driving like a normal, calm human being to see how many miles I can get out of it. When you're all tuned up with coilovers and good brakes etc etc you have a tendency to be a bit harder on your car. I feel like its smart for me to start playing nice now that she's old.
On a side note....a little word of advice for those of you who are doing the motor mount swap we all eventually have to do. I did mine 2-3 years ago and i decided to go with the cheaper ebay mounts vs expensive OEM like a lot of people do.
DO NOT FOOL YOURSELF...THESE ARE NOT THE SAME QUALITY AS OEM MOUNTS.......
I got a good couple years out of mine, but the rubber is cracked in my main front mount now, and my passenger side mount is stretched further back than it should be...so now im going to be forced to do them again with OEM mounts one by one as I can afford them on my car which has 218k. For now Im not stressing it too much, im just deciding to drive gentler. I have no idea if having coilovers etc helped to wear them out quicker but my OEM ones lasted 150k+ miles before being really crappy....these lasted more like 30-40k.
02-02-2016, 08:13 AM
#2
nice update, do the motor mounts effect autos as much?
im at 187k and never looked at em
i hear ya on going harder on the car! it's really noticable when u get in other cars and realize u dont have upgrades
im at 187k and never looked at em
i hear ya on going harder on the car! it's really noticable when u get in other cars and realize u dont have upgrades
02-02-2016, 09:02 AM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
I have the manual motor mounts on my auto with an auto transmission mount. I can only assume a manual would be harder on them...especially with aggressive clutch.
02-03-2016, 06:39 AM
#6
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
I considered doing the ES bushings but I had two seperate friends that had poly bushings tell me "do NOT do those unless you want your daily driver to be a vibrating loud mess at every stoplight". One had a turbo M3 with them, and the other an Rx-7...both had to take them out because it annoyed them so much.
02-03-2016, 06:36 PM
#8
In my auto the symptoms were "clunking" at parking lot speeds (although when the tranny gets old the internal mechanisms will do this a little anyway), and worst of all excessive motor/transmission noise. Back when I first needed them my transmission sounded like it was going bad until I did all the mounts, then it was super quiet again and shifted great.
I considered doing the ES bushings but I had two seperate friends that had poly bushings tell me "do NOT do those unless you want your daily driver to be a vibrating loud mess at every stoplight". One had a turbo M3 with them, and the other an Rx-7...both had to take them out because it annoyed them so much.
I considered doing the ES bushings but I had two seperate friends that had poly bushings tell me "do NOT do those unless you want your daily driver to be a vibrating loud mess at every stoplight". One had a turbo M3 with them, and the other an Rx-7...both had to take them out because it annoyed them so much.
Tell them to grow a pair or just give them tampons for the giant vag they grew after birth. M3 is inline 6, so it should run smooth (idk what rotaries feel like). It sounds like their cars are just rattle traps like an old 240sx (yes, those will vibrate hard due to the engine and chassis).
If your car is vibrating heavily at idle (or shaking as curious george says), then your idle is too low or it's running like ****. Despite what the loser car reviewers say, the VQ is not a harsh motor (internally balanced, so duh).
For cost, I still say fill them with window weld.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 02-03-2016 at 06:43 PM.
02-04-2016, 04:42 AM
#9
In my auto the symptoms were "clunking" at parking lot speeds (although when the tranny gets old the internal mechanisms will do this a little anyway), and worst of all excessive motor/transmission noise. Back when I first needed them my transmission sounded like it was going bad until I did all the mounts, then it was super quiet again and shifted great.
I considered doing the ES bushings but I had two seperate friends that had poly bushings tell me "do NOT do those unless you want your daily driver to be a vibrating loud mess at every stoplight". One had a turbo M3 with them, and the other an Rx-7...both had to take them out because it annoyed them so much.
I considered doing the ES bushings but I had two seperate friends that had poly bushings tell me "do NOT do those unless you want your daily driver to be a vibrating loud mess at every stoplight". One had a turbo M3 with them, and the other an Rx-7...both had to take them out because it annoyed them so much.
I have ES inserts on one of mine and there is a slight vibration at idle. There is no noise or at least it's not noticeable over the H/TP/E.
Tell them to grow a pair or just give them tampons for the giant vag they grew after birth. M3 is inline 6, so it should run smooth (idk what rotaries feel like). It sounds like their cars are just rattle traps like an old 240sx (yes, those will vibrate hard due to the engine and chassis).
If your car is vibrating heavily at idle (or shaking as curious george says), then your idle is too low or it's running like ****. Despite what the loser car reviewers say, the VQ is not a harsh motor (internally balanced, so duh).
For cost, I still say fill them with window weld.
Tell them to grow a pair or just give them tampons for the giant vag they grew after birth. M3 is inline 6, so it should run smooth (idk what rotaries feel like). It sounds like their cars are just rattle traps like an old 240sx (yes, those will vibrate hard due to the engine and chassis).
If your car is vibrating heavily at idle (or shaking as curious george says), then your idle is too low or it's running like ****. Despite what the loser car reviewers say, the VQ is not a harsh motor (internally balanced, so duh).
For cost, I still say fill them with window weld.
idk it's all opinion , i think for me on a dd would it probably get annoying, a second car that's heavily modified probably not bad.
I can only imagine u like a lil more aggressive driving so I couls see why u don't mind it.
02-04-2016, 06:04 AM
#10
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
Well, the long and the short of it is that I drive my car around all day in between jobs and I occasionally get stuck in some pretty knarly traffic being Atlanta and all. My car is fun and I love it but for something thats only about as fast as an outdated Mustang, it's not worth it to me to have to sacrifice comfort. Not to mention I'm 36....If I take a woman out, I don't want to have to explain to her why the car sounds like its broken. All you have to do is 1 google search for "poly mototr mounts", and theres people saying its too much vibration with everything from Honda's to Corvettes.
As far as my friends go, one is a Lexus technician that has a turbo M3 and the other is a millionaire that has (not kidding) a lifted jeep with a turbo or supercharger.....I cant remember, a factory built Shelby Cobra, a Ferrari F430, an Arial Atom with a supercharger to turbo swap done, and most recently whatever that model of McLaren is that they just started semi mass producing. Oh yeah, and a 4 seater airplane. Sooooo before you ask me to tell him to "nut up" about my 2000 old *** maxima and whether or not I should modify it...he already teases me for spending a dime on that car whatsoever. Lol. Anyways....the mechanic one told me that its not the smartest idea to have motor mounts with different compounds mixed in with rubber ones because the engine will torque in odd ways to compensate for the restriction. Anyhoo....theres no rush because the car drives fine for now..I have some time to think.
As far as my friends go, one is a Lexus technician that has a turbo M3 and the other is a millionaire that has (not kidding) a lifted jeep with a turbo or supercharger.....I cant remember, a factory built Shelby Cobra, a Ferrari F430, an Arial Atom with a supercharger to turbo swap done, and most recently whatever that model of McLaren is that they just started semi mass producing. Oh yeah, and a 4 seater airplane. Sooooo before you ask me to tell him to "nut up" about my 2000 old *** maxima and whether or not I should modify it...he already teases me for spending a dime on that car whatsoever. Lol. Anyways....the mechanic one told me that its not the smartest idea to have motor mounts with different compounds mixed in with rubber ones because the engine will torque in odd ways to compensate for the restriction. Anyhoo....theres no rush because the car drives fine for now..I have some time to think.
02-04-2016, 12:14 PM
#14
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
I also think having coilovers transfers a LOT of impact to the engine due to the chassis being so stiff. I'm only on 50% firmness and theres some dips in the highway sometimes that feel like they are making the car airborne.
02-04-2016, 03:04 PM
#15
Movement of the engine (TQing backwards) is pretty much solely restricted by the rear mount. You could use a urethane for the rear and regular for the front if you want to lessen the vibration.
And so I was correct. He's a big baby.
It's also possible to fill a mount yourself without making it completely solid. Window weld is very thick. If you cut the nozzle like you would on a caulk gun, then you will get a bead out of it. If you cut it just large enough for a thick bead (still will be a hard squeeze). Then when you fill it up, it will have some air gaps (if you hold the nozzle above the surface). This will provide a lot of cushion like a stock mount does with the gaps, but it won't be weak
And so I was correct. He's a big baby.
It's also possible to fill a mount yourself without making it completely solid. Window weld is very thick. If you cut the nozzle like you would on a caulk gun, then you will get a bead out of it. If you cut it just large enough for a thick bead (still will be a hard squeeze). Then when you fill it up, it will have some air gaps (if you hold the nozzle above the surface). This will provide a lot of cushion like a stock mount does with the gaps, but it won't be weak
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 02-04-2016 at 03:15 PM.
02-05-2016, 09:11 AM
#16
Yeah..I drive closer to 12k a year and I can be a little "aggressive" at times..lol
Yeah you can get away with it on things that are small or not signifigant sometimes.
I also think having coilovers transfers a LOT of impact to the engine due to the chassis being so stiff. I'm only on 50% firmness and theres some dips in the highway sometimes that feel like they are making the car airborne.
i agree with the theory of a stiff setup can't help all that much either, been riding lowered and stiff for 90k miles...there has to be subtle indirect things being effected
02-05-2016, 10:01 PM
#17
My 00 has new mounts all around, and its great, but my 02 with polys is a world of difference. Just feels more responsive when you drop gears, and accelerating in general. But there is some slight, slight vibration on the start up. Its not too bad. I can see why you wouldn't want them, for even more comfort. Im just glad my engine is comfortable
02-06-2016, 06:26 AM
#18
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 539
Movement of the engine (TQing backwards) is pretty much solely restricted by the rear mount. You could use a urethane for the rear and regular for the front if you want to lessen the vibration.
And so I was correct. He's a big baby.
It's also possible to fill a mount yourself without making it completely solid. Window weld is very thick. If you cut the nozzle like you would on a caulk gun, then you will get a bead out of it. If you cut it just large enough for a thick bead (still will be a hard squeeze). Then when you fill it up, it will have some air gaps (if you hold the nozzle above the surface). This will provide a lot of cushion like a stock mount does with the gaps, but it won't be weak
And so I was correct. He's a big baby.
It's also possible to fill a mount yourself without making it completely solid. Window weld is very thick. If you cut the nozzle like you would on a caulk gun, then you will get a bead out of it. If you cut it just large enough for a thick bead (still will be a hard squeeze). Then when you fill it up, it will have some air gaps (if you hold the nozzle above the surface). This will provide a lot of cushion like a stock mount does with the gaps, but it won't be weak
My 00 has new mounts all around, and its great, but my 02 with polys is a world of difference. Just feels more responsive when you drop gears, and accelerating in general. But there is some slight, slight vibration on the start up. Its not too bad. I can see why you wouldn't want them, for even more comfort. Im just glad my engine is comfortable
06-19-2016, 12:10 PM
#19
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,284
I have ES inserts on one of mine and there is a slight vibration at idle. There is no noise or at least it's not noticeable over the H/TP/E.
Tell them to grow a pair or just give them tampons for the giant vag they grew after birth. M3 is inline 6, so it should run smooth (idk what rotaries feel like). It sounds like their cars are just rattle traps like an old 240sx (yes, those will vibrate hard due to the engine and chassis).
If your car is vibrating heavily at idle (or shaking as curious george says), then your idle is too low or it's running like ****. Despite what the loser car reviewers say, the VQ is not a harsh motor (internally balanced, so duh).
For cost, I still say fill them with window weld.
Tell them to grow a pair or just give them tampons for the giant vag they grew after birth. M3 is inline 6, so it should run smooth (idk what rotaries feel like). It sounds like their cars are just rattle traps like an old 240sx (yes, those will vibrate hard due to the engine and chassis).
If your car is vibrating heavily at idle (or shaking as curious george says), then your idle is too low or it's running like ****. Despite what the loser car reviewers say, the VQ is not a harsh motor (internally balanced, so duh).
For cost, I still say fill them with window weld.
06-19-2016, 12:36 PM
#20
I have ES inserts on one of mine and there is a slight vibration at idle. There is no noise or at least it's not noticeable over the H/TP/E. Tell them to grow a pair or just give them tampons for the giant vag they grew after birth. M3 is inline 6, so it should run smooth (idk what rotaries feel like). It sounds like their cars are just rattle traps like an old 240sx (yes, those will vibrate hard due to the engine and chassis). If your car is vibrating heavily at idle (or shaking as curious george says), then your idle is too low or it's running like ****. Despite what the loser car reviewers say, the VQ is not a harsh motor (internally balanced, so duh). For cost, I still say fill them with window weld.
06-19-2016, 02:07 PM
#21
It's pretty simple to keep it in the middle. Take the outside flaps thing (it's a cover I guess), put it on and lay the mount facing down on the cover. Put the pin in and fill her up. Just make sure the pin is centered on both axis and let dry for 3 days. I guess you could hold the lin with a screwdriver or something.
One of mine was fairly crooked, but it didn't matter, bolt slid right through.
Use carb cleaner if leaving the rubber in and squirt urethane into any cracks. Mine are nearly 2 yrs old and look the same as when I did it.
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 06-19-2016 at 02:16 PM.
06-19-2016, 11:08 PM
#22
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,284
[QUOTE=Child_uv_KoRn;9115081]You can leave all of the rubber if you wish. I cut a piece out of one of the mounts that holds the pin in place b/c it was totally busted.
It's pretty simple to keep it in the middle. Take the outside flaps thing (it's a cover I guess), put it on and lay the mount facing down on the cover. Put the pin in and fill her up. Just make sure the pin is centered on both axis and let dry for 3 days. I guess you could hold the lin with a screwdriver or something.
One of mine was fairly crooked, but it didn't matter, bolt slid right through.
Use carb cleaner if leaving the rubber in and squirt urethane into any cracks. Mine ar e nearly 2 yrs old and look the same as when I did it.[ /QUOTE]
Thanks for your response man both my engine mounts are. Completely bad. Got a rear one from amazon. But. Instead of spending $50 for a front mount I got one from pull a part and. Some window. Weld to fill it.
It's pretty simple to keep it in the middle. Take the outside flaps thing (it's a cover I guess), put it on and lay the mount facing down on the cover. Put the pin in and fill her up. Just make sure the pin is centered on both axis and let dry for 3 days. I guess you could hold the lin with a screwdriver or something.
One of mine was fairly crooked, but it didn't matter, bolt slid right through.
Use carb cleaner if leaving the rubber in and squirt urethane into any cracks. Mine ar e nearly 2 yrs old and look the same as when I did it.[ /QUOTE]
Thanks for your response man both my engine mounts are. Completely bad. Got a rear one from amazon. But. Instead of spending $50 for a front mount I got one from pull a part and. Some window. Weld to fill it.
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