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Long rough start?

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Old 04-28-2016, 05:22 PM
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Nothing's impossible and it's not really worth bickering over. I'm glad the owner has gotten his car straightened out. That's the important thing. That's why we're all here.
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
Youll get a nice bump in torque with the y pipe so you can press the gas a little lighter. Has that knocking issue gone away or is it still knocking away?

I have only cold started it twice since the filter. No knocking yet. Did all relearn procedures as well.

Cannot wait to put the new parts in.

I honestly feel like the engine or transmission is going to blow up when putting the pedal down. It has begun spinning the tires a tiny bit and it sounds like a t-rex
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Old 04-28-2016, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattx
I want to know how he more than doubled his gas mileage switching from 87 to 93 and an air filter.
Me too. This is either irresponsible posting or outright lying.

This site has gained excellent reputation because of the collective knowledge and the friendly help offered its members. I feel that several posts made by the OP are damaging the reputation of this site.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattx
I want to know how he more than doubled his gas mileage switching from 87 to 93 and an air filter.
And also with an exhaust leak too lol, and no new knock sensor.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
And also with an exhaust leak too lol, and no new knock sensor.
Theres too many variables to justify whos right and wrong. im awaiting the mpg numbers once everything is fixed. i had a steady 290 to the tank (16gal) with a massive downpipe leak in my 3.2 acura cl. Better yet there has been an improvement so thats the most important part.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
Theres too many variables to justify whos right and wrong. im awaiting the mpg numbers once everything is fixed. i had a steady 290 to the tank (16gal) with a massive downpipe leak in my 3.2 acura cl. Better yet there has been an improvement so thats the most important part.

Yeah thats a good thing the op has found the problem and fixed the issue. i remember when i first bought my 02/i35 the gas mileage sucked 19mpg on the highway, and previous owner ran cheap gas, plus it had a downpipe leak. I did a massive tune-up. I recently got 35mpg on a recent trip, even tho the trip cp may be off slightly I was going 55-60mph the whole way.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:18 PM
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And please show us that filter, if you can hear the kn one and you had a spectre one from the begining then perhaps it was clogged up that bad. my panel filter was 75% filled when i bought my maxima, looked like black playdough.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by maxiiiboy
Me too. This is either irresponsible posting or outright lying. This site has gained excellent reputation because of the collective knowledge and the friendly help offered its members. I feel that several posts made by the OP are damaging the reputation of this site.
Hey look I didn't want to say it but thank you and I agree.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattx
Hey look I didn't want to say it but thank you and I agree.
Mpg wasnt the main purpose of this this thread though.......there wouldnt be a how to on how to properly read mpg if it wasnt commonly messes up. OP wasnt claiming to achieve the highest mpg or anything of the sort so i dont see how any reputation is at risk.
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
Thats happening due to the 87 im guessing. my acura cl with a huge downpipe leak was getting that kind of mileage on 91 gas and with a smaller gas tank. The ecu will pull your timing and will reduce power to prevent knocking on the 87 especialy under wide open throttle. If the above poster is right about the plugs being killed i wouldnt doubt the precats are on the way out due to always running pig rich to not detonate. Raw fuel is literaly the death of cats

How do you keep the car from running rich tho?
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Old 04-28-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
How do you keep the car from running rich tho?
Manualy, you cant. In this case, op is running rich to compensate for lack of detonation resistance and messy sensor readings. Its not his choice to run rich, his ecu is just dumping the fuel because it feels like it needs to. As long as you have no codes and all is well in the motor then the ecu will always go for a 14.7 ratio.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
Manualy, you cant. In this case, op is running rich to compensate for lack of detonation resistance and messy sensor readings. Its not his choice to run rich, his ecu is just dumping the fuel because it feels like it needs to. As long as you have no codes and all is well in the motor then the ecu will always go for a 14.7 ratio.

gocha, cause my car does this sometimes too, not all the time just sometimes.
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
Youll get a nice bump in torque with the y pipe so you can press the gas a little lighter. Has that knocking issue gone away or is it still knocking away?

Its no longer a knock, its a sputter. (Only at startup).

When the engine is cold the exhaust smells rich and is white.



Original air filter color




The color now lol




333 miles this tank. 93 shell Vpower




I'm really hoping the ypipe sparks and injectors fix the rough idle and rich start issue.. sigh
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Old 04-30-2016, 02:42 PM
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I just got 342 miles with about 75% speeding on the highway and some pulls. Almost 23 mpg isn't bad for all the romping I was doing plus city. You're only supposed to shift at redline, right?

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 04-30-2016 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 04-30-2016, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
I just got 342 miles with about 75% speeding on the highway and some pulls. Almost 23 mpg isn't bad for all romping I was doing plus city. You're only supposed to shift at redline, right?
grrrr. Makes me think even more that sum ting wong
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:46 PM
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When was the last time you cleaned the maf? oil based filters can coat them in traces of oil. that can cause misreadings aswell. when you do the plugs shine a light into the cylinder. if you see alot of carbon just do alot of WOT runs to burn it up.
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Old 04-30-2016, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MadMax SE
When was the last time you cleaned the maf? oil based filters can coat them in traces of oil. that can cause misreadings aswell. when you do the plugs shine a light into the cylinder. if you see alot of carbon just do alot of WOT runs to burn it up.

MAF is a new 2001 model with the added thermistor so it works with a 2002. It is about a year and a half old. I will clean it if the new parts do not work
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:15 PM
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This is why a wideband is so nice. You can see exactly how she's running. It's so reassuring every time you look down and see 14.7-15.1 when part throttle/cruising.

It's not spectacular to look at or analyze, but nissan datascan II does a decent enough job of logging that you can see your IV/ignition timing, etc. You can log all of the sensors. It can definitely help diagnose sensor failures.

To be fair, you really can't go off of my numbers. I have a 6 spd 5.7 swap with bolt-ons. If I had an auto it would be like 20 mpg.

Originally Posted by Adamk8824
grrrr. Makes me think even more that sum ting wong
Gotta be the canooter valve.














Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 04-30-2016 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:59 PM
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Gotta be the canooter valve.
Im pretty sure a precat is dying. I get a rattle when the engine is down revving (in neutral).

Its probably the front one correct?
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
Im pretty sure a precat is dying. I get a rattle when the engine is down revving (in neutral).

Its probably the front one correct?
If so, yes, and that means it's ruining your engine. Bits are breaking off the sides as it rattles (hopefully it's not in pieces, yet).
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
If so, yes, and that means it's ruining your engine. Bits are breaking off the sides as it rattles (hopefully it's not in pieces, yet).
The last time I had the y pipe off the right/rear pre cat was able to be pushed up about an inch (the stuff inside). Is this normal? It didnt look broken.
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
The last time I had the y pipe off the right/rear pre cat was able to be pushed up about an inch (the stuff inside). Is this normal? It didnt look broken.
Holyhell! The rear is that bad?!

Those things gotta go ASAP!
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Old 05-02-2016, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Holyhell! The rear is that bad?!

Those things gotta go ASAP!
This thing is a huge moneypit dude sigh
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
This thing is a huge moneypit dude sigh
Gutting is basically free.
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Old 05-02-2016, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Gutting is basically free.
I dont think my mechanic friend would feel comfortable doing it. I just bought two new precats by davico from rockauto. If they break again im shoving a broom through both of them.

Im going to take really good care of the car. Oil changes, 93 premium gas, nice cone air filter. Vias valve zip tied open and my rear resonator cut off.

This should help everything flow better and hopefully run cooler.

My friend thinks on saturday we are doing just a new y pipe... lol im gona show up with 2 pre cats as well.

Last edited by Adamk8824; 05-02-2016 at 08:10 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
I dont think my mechanic friend would feel comfortable doing it. I just bought two new precats by davico from rockauto. If they break again im shoving a broom through both of them.

Im going to take really good care of the car. Oil changes, 93 premium gas, nice cone air filter. Vias valve zip tied open and my rear resonator cut off.

This should help everything flow better and hopefully run cooler.

My friend thinks on saturday we are doing just a new y pipe... lol im gona show up with 2 pre cats as well.
Hopefully that's the last repair you need. Those precats must have gotten eaten badly. I'm chasing gremlins myself Between my rad support, wheel bearing, iacv, and engine/tranny mounts. I don't even want to mention the exhaust...im in NY so you can only figure the quantity of rust in it. If it wernt rusty bolts and no codes I would have removed the cats immediately. Also look into using penzzoil synthetic 2 stroke oil as an gas additive. Alot of users swear by it and I'm sure it would do wonders in lubricating all those new fuel system pieces you have there and for cold starts. On top of that it's dirt cheap and cleans carbon overtime. I will be using with EVERY fill up until the car dies.

The link inside the thread is a very good read. http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-discussion-using-tc-w3-oil-additive-24208.html
Or better yet
https://maxima.org/forums/fluids-lubricants/665423-marine-tc-w3-two-stroke-oil-gasoline-additive-new.html

Last edited by MadMax SE; 05-03-2016 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Gutting is basically free.
can you use a drill to remove the cat material, thas what im about to do to my rear pre-cat this week. Got it at a shop now to replace the rear pre cat because i stuck a screw driver inside the 02 sensor hole and the stuff moved inside it. Plus they want $650 to replace it just for labor. I said no just replace the bolts at the yipe on both converter connections and i can just gut the rear pre cat in place.
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
can you use a drill to remove the cat material, thas what im about to do to my rear pre-cat this week. Got it at a shop now to replace the rear pre cat because i stuck a screw driver inside the 02 sensor hole and the stuff moved inside it. Plus they want $650 to replace it just for labor. I said no just replace the bolts at the yipe on both converter connections and i can just gut the rear pre cat in place.
Why so expensive for labor? I called a shop today and he said it shouldn't be too expensive as its just some pre cats. He didnt give me a price, but he is reasonable, I have been there before.

I just need to let it out. Some a hole removed my splash shields from the bottom of the car and did NOT put them back.

I have water getting on my belts, engine, and radiator support. I am not happy.

I just had to buy 2 splash shields and the fasteners to hold them on. I wish I knew which shop did it....
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Old 05-03-2016, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
can you use a drill to remove the cat material, thas what im about to do to my rear pre-cat this week. Got it at a shop now to replace the rear pre cat because i stuck a screw driver inside the 02 sensor hole and the stuff moved inside it. Plus they want $650 to replace it just for labor. I said no just replace the bolts at the yipe on both converter connections and i can just gut the rear pre cat in place.
Yes. The more ruined the cats are the easier they are to remove.

I have gutted a rear cat that was super solid by drilling holes and beating it with a big chisel. It's very tough material when in good condition. It's also harder b/c there's no wide opening like the front cat.
Yours should be weaker since it's already loose.

The front should be easy to pop out if it doesn't just fall out.

Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 05-03-2016 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Child_uv_KoRn
Yes. The more ruined the cats are the easier they are to remove.

I have gutted a rear cat that was super solid by drilling holes and beating it with a big chisel. It's very tough material when in good condition. It's also harder b/c there's no wide opening like the front cat.
Yours should be weaker since it's already loose.

The front should be easy to pop out if it doesn't just fall out.
lol yeah i know exactly what u mean, with a good cat the stuff is hard to remove. My main cat, stuck a screwdriver in there and it is solid as a rock almost.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
Why so expensive for labor? I called a shop today and he said it shouldn't be too expensive as its just some pre cats. He didnt give me a price, but he is reasonable, I have been there before.

I just need to let it out. Some a hole removed my splash shields from the bottom of the car and did NOT put them back.

I have water getting on my belts, engine, and radiator support. I am not happy.

I just had to buy 2 splash shields and the fasteners to hold them on. I wish I knew which shop did it....
Its pretty expensive for me because my car came from new jersey/snow belt. So you can only imagine how rusted in place the y-pipe bolts are at the cat connections. Even though the top manifold stud screws seem to come right off. Been to 7 places and no one wanted to touch it. Even though i wanted to replace it, for now its gonna get the rusty bolts removed and i will gut it like a fish.
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Old 05-03-2016, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
Its pretty expensive for me because my car came from new jersey/snow belt. So you can only imagine how rusted in place the y-pipe bolts are at the cat connections. Even though the top manifold stud screws seem to come right off. Been to 7 places and no one wanted to touch it. Even though i wanted to replace it, for now its gonna get the rusty bolts removed and i will gut it like a fish.
That's sad no one will work on it. It took my friend 15 minutes to get the y pipe off and my cars from the east coast Connecticut/new York. He used a torch to heat the bolts, but it still took only 15 minutes.


How is the rust underneath the car? I'm really nervous to see my car on a lift. I know my lower radiator support is beginning to rust. My engine mount hooks look like they are beginning to rust
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
That's sad no one will work on it. It took my friend 15 minutes to get the y pipe off and my cars from the east coast Connecticut/new York. He used a torch to heat the bolts, but it still took only 15 minutes.


How is the rust underneath the car? I'm really nervous to see my car on a lift. I know my lower radiator support is beginning to rust. My engine mount hooks look like they are beginning to rust
Yes it is sad man I got really frustrated. The rust isn't too bad cause I've seen worse. But the pipe area near my precats just the bolts seen frozen in place. And shops try to make money from you because they see the word infiniti.
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
Yes it is sad man I got really frustrated. The rust isn't too bad cause I've seen worse. But the pipe area near my precats just the bolts seen frozen in place. And shops try to make money from you because they see the word infiniti.
Oh gosh infiniti does sound expensive! Theres gotta be somewhere. I hope you get it sorted out friend
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
Oh gosh infiniti does sound expensive! Theres gotta be somewhere. I hope you get it sorted out friend
lol I have it at midas right now so they are going to replace the rusted bolts and then i can go from there, as far as gutting or replacing anything.
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
lol I have it at midas right now so they are going to replace the rusted bolts and then i can go from there, as far as gutting or replacing anything.
Nice glad its getting fixed. Take pics of the inside of the cats and post them here! Im gonna upload mine lol
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Old 05-04-2016, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
Nice glad its getting fixed. Take pics of the inside of the cats and post them here! Im gonna upload mine lol
Ok I will
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Old 05-05-2016, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
Ok I will
Dropping my car off tomorrow. They want $270 total to install both pre-cats

Its a bit more than id like to pay, but another shop refused the job completely, and the other shop I used to go to is a con artist. He tried charging me $400 to replace my power steering reservoir. I fixed the leak for $1.50 (hose clamps).

So $270 for someone more trust worthy, and I get a loaner. What do you think?
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Adamk8824
Dropping my car off tomorrow. They want $270 total to install both pre-cats

Its a bit more than id like to pay, but another shop refused the job completely, and the other shop I used to go to is a con artist. He tried charging me $400 to replace my power steering reservoir. I fixed the leak for $1.50 (hose clamps).

So $270 for someone more trust worthy, and I get a loaner. What do you think?
Sounds good to me, where do u live so i can come there to get mine installed lol. Midas didnt install my pre cat. What they told me is i need to get a new bank 2 pre-cat and ypipe for them to complete the install. they didnt want to risk damaging the bank 2 cat in order to remove the bank 1 cat. Now come to find out i have a dead cell in my battery, which was giving me driveabilty issues and didnt know it. I see a bank 2 cat on ebay i think i may get, and a walker y-pipe on amazon.
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
Sounds good to me, where do u live so i can come there to get mine installed lol. Midas didnt install my pre cat. What they told me is i need to get a new bank 2 pre-cat and ypipe for them to complete the install. they didnt want to risk damaging the bank 2 cat in order to remove the bank 1 cat. Now come to find out i have a dead cell in my battery, which was giving me driveabilty issues and didnt know it. I see a bank 2 cat on ebay i think i may get, and a walker y-pipe on amazon.

Im from Connecticut. I think its a reasonable price now that I think about it. I do not recommend ebay cats! I bought a cat from ebay, i never installed it. I just bought another cat from rockauto. I compared the two side by side. The davico one from rockauto has a wider pipe and has a great warranty. Its inspected as well.

The ebay one is cheap and will not flow as well. The pipe is smaller. Just trying to help!
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