Max139617

iTrader: (9)

This. I have mine at 850 as well. Helps smooth out the vibrations at idle as an added bonus

Blassmasta

Pretty sure stock idle on a 5.5 6speed is 600. His is running nuts on.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

You are right. Mine have always been around 7-750 when I bought them

Regardless, 600 is too low. That will get you the bare minimum of 14 psi that nissan calls for (with plain ol 30 weight). Idk about you guys, but bare min. oil pressure isn't a good bar

Blassmasta

Valid point for sure.

Blassmasta

What did you do exactly to fix this problem? I am currently in the same boat.
Car is hard to start - engine runs smooth but has no real power (when you can get it to start). My old boat anchor sounded like someone threw a handful of nails down the intake manifold but it would still pull. This one purrs like a kitten but has all the torque and horsepower of a Geo Metro.

New sensor on order from the dealer. Did you end up putting a new sensor in? Seems odd that it would crap out precisely at the time the engine is pulled apart. But that looks like what's happened!

Chorca

Mine never started hard, it always started immediately. However, I had a SES light and a code for the knock sensor, due to the incompatibility. At the same time had codes for the secondary o2 sensors, but i'm not sure those put it in limp mode, as they're just catalyst monitoring; without a knock sensor the car can't tell if it's destroying itself.

Once I swapped the cable and sensor back to the older style, cleared the code (Using NDS II), it immediately ran much better while driving. Idle and low speed were unchanged.
I just used one from AutoZone, and a cable from Courtesy Nissan, as my local dealer won't sell the individual sub-harnesses for some reason. (and I snapped off the connector on the end of the original cable. Brittle plastics.)

Make sure you don't drop the sensor!

Blassmasta

Oh shoot - my apologies, my issue is with the crank sensor, not the knock sensor. I'm seeing what I want to see now - getting desperate for a solution. It's funny, I'm actually hoping the crank sensor is toast. 'Cause if it ain't, then I don't know what the heck to do.

On the subject of the crank sensor (since I've gone there now), did you find it was a pretty crummy fit in that hole? big step between the oil pan and the bellhousing, o-ring doesn't even really seal the thing in there. Mickey mouse design if you ask me. it's like they missed that bit of the casting on the gearbox and said "to hell with it". It just looks wrong.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

I don't think is that big of a deal there's nothing in there that can be damaged by dust particles so I wouldn't worry!

Heck mine are uneven and also different size since my swap...lol (I did freak out a bit) but a fellow members suggested "fvck it just throw it on there" and it works just fine

Blassmasta

Yup! That's what mine looks like. OK, feel a little better now. Thanks for that confirmation. The picture says it all. Unfortunately either my sensor is dead, or there's a bad connector or wire in the harness going to it. Hopefully when I plunk it in, it'll work.

nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Get a used sensor and see if it works,if not download the FSM and pull out the multimeter reader and probe away...

Blassmasta

That's the plan. Don't even really now where to start if the new one doesn't work though. Other than checking resistance of components my skill with a multimeter is pretty limited.

Blassmasta

Solved this problem only to expose more. Traced the harness for the Crank Sensor to find it terminates at a connector that's part of a group of 4 right on the front of the motor (nearest the radiator). 2 green ones, one light blue and one dark blue. Just to the left of the rad cap.


3 of them are for 02 sensors and one of them is for the Crank Sensor ... which happens to be one of the dark green ones.

What are the chances that the two green ones are mixed up? I would assume these things were all made to fit only one way and therefore idiot-proof. Well, the chances are damn good because the 2 dark green ones are completely interchangeable. I swapped the male/female parts of the 2 connectors - turned the key and voila! I have a Crank Sensor signal. Problem solved right? Wrong.

No more code p0335. Now I have p0011 & p0021 (Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced) ... both banks. And a random misfire code for good measure. Pulled out and bench tested both VVT actuators - both functional. Replaced both Camshaft Position sensors with known good ones. No change. Oil is brand new and topped off.

The codes come up immediately after starting. Every time. Both Banks. My theory; Crankshaft and Camshafts are not in phase. The fact that it's both banks makes me think flywheel alignment. Rough idle and way down on power. I think the flywheel is retarded by one hole on the crank flange. I have a theory on why it's only one hole out but I'll save that for later.

Thoughts?
Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0021
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0021
Copyright OBD-Codes.com

Chorca

If you're using the aftermarket flywheel, make sure you're in the FWD position, not the RWD position. Check that paperwork I sent over, make sure you're in the right slot.

Blassmasta

Nope - Factory dual mass.

Chorca

Just wanted to throw an update in here, that everything is still running smoothly.
Did a 1000-mi drive this past weekend and it performed perfectly, everything is quiet and smooth.

Since the swap, I've added an OBX muffler (kept the factory midpipe) and a Hidden Hitch. I should note this seems to conflict a little with the OBX muffler, one of the mounts bangs against the hitch a lot. I'll have to figure out a solution.