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looks like my gas lid solenoid is not getting power, i hooked test light to the plug and no light. all the fuses under the dash test fine with a test light. not sure what gives?
So if you did not find voltage on one of the wires (purple) at the solenoid, then you evidently have a wiring problem. But double check fuse # 3. It is in the top row, 3rd from the left end. This fuse also powers the trunk release, so if the trunks pops open, fuse # 3 is good
Trunk pops open no problem. fuse #3 is good. I beleive i did but, perhaps i should try and test that connector and again and do my best to make sure there absolute positive contact with the pins inside.
Does any one know the name of the solenoid or the part number of it? I'm curious as to what they cost.
The part is called "Actuator Assy-Fuel Lid Opener". Depending on the year of your car, there are 3 different ones. 78850-2Y000 or 78850-5Y700 or 78850-5Y724. And they are expensive as hell - from #157 to $195 !!!
But first find out if you have 12 volts on the purple wire before you go buying anything from anywhere.
Well the trunk no longer opens unless the key is out and i press the button the remote/fob. I wonder if wire broke when i first tried that new light in my drunk, maybe just before the fuse blew.
it all seems to have started at the time of or not long after that i popped the fuse with some Chinese LED i tried in the trunk. Ill re re re check the number 3 fuse and check for voltage at the purple wire. just didn't know if someone knew something already about this issue before i embark on a wiring adventure.
EDIT: so i've heard posts where it only opens with the fob or only the button on the door. looks like i'll need to check for the valet switch. I hope that's all that's wrong with the trunk.
To clarify my earlier post, the purple wire from fuse #3 goes to both the fuel lid solenoid and the trunk open solenoid. There should be 12 volts on that purple wire all the time as long as the battery is connected and charged up.
On the fuel lid solenoid, the other wire is yellow/red stripe. This wire gets connected to ground when you push the switch in the car.
The trunk lid circuit is a little more complex. The other wire is a blue wire that gets connected to ground by the SECU module. If you put a ground jumper wire on the blue wire and the solenoid works, it doesn't look good for the SECU. It could always be a broken wire, though.
What year is your car? the trunk lid circuit is not identical on the 5.0 and 5.5 max.
There are no relays used for the trunk opener or gas filler cover.
Check fuse # 13, center row, 2nd from the left end. This fuse supplies power to the trunk lamp and also the SECU. The SECU is what actually operates the trunk lid opener. The key fob and the button in the driver's door go to the SECU. The gas filler cover does not use the SECU.
Did you ever verify that there is 12 volts (from fuse #3) on the purple wire that goes to the 2 solenoids? That is the only thing that the 2 solenoids have in common.
The part is called "Actuator Assy-Fuel Lid Opener". Depending on the year of your car, there are 3 different ones. 78850-2Y000 or 78850-5Y700 or 78850-5Y724. And they are expensive as hell - from #157 to $195 !!!
But first find out if you have 12 volts on the purple wire before you go buying anything from anywhere.
dee dee dee prices. Free from junkyard. Every overpriced part should be a lawsuit. It's anti-consumer planned obsolescence.
fuse #3 is being supplied with 12v and is giving 12v on the other post. idk which post is purple on fuse #3 as the back of the fuse block is just a bunch of relays i didn't know about. i might assume since the bottom post of fuse #3 is 12v that the top post is probably the purple wire. I took the plug off the actuator and put the black lead of the DMM on the yellow and Red lead to the Purple and had someone work the gas lid button the drivers door and zip zilch nada.
I had plugged a faulty and way to too many amps LED in the trunk socket when this started. The trunk release and release buttons all worked fine for a while.
I'm wondering why the trunk release button eventual quit working too? The trunk only releases now with the fob when the key is out the ignition.
anyone know where these wires run? i'm assuming the interior floor, i have yet to figure out to remove the interior pillars and rocker covers. my battery/brake light came on again and my alternator post likes like it has mig weld spatter on the post. i need to fix this and probably do the grounding mod.
what's more interesting is the dash lights are sort of intermittent or won't light until a short drive. HOWEVER i've found another indicator on the alternator.
EDIT: oh yeah voltage look great! 13.8 off and 15.0-15.2v when the car is on, even when that bolt is glowing hot. perhaps it's over charging?
oh yeah voltage look great! 13.8 off and 15.0-15.2v when the car is on, even when that bolt is glowing hot. perhaps it's over charging?
NO NO NO. That alternator is B-A-D.
When running, voltage should be 14.2. When the engine is off, the voltage should be about 12.5. At 13.8 volts, the battery is telling you it is about to short out internally from being over charged. Examine the battery carefully to see that the sides are not bulging. If the sides are bulging, get that battery out of the car before it explodes.
For some reason the photos aren't displaying on my computer, so I can't comment on them.
no bulging, not hot to the touch. hopefully it isn't shot. i shut the car off after the above photo, the front nor passenger window wanted to roll up very fast and the multimeter was reading 13.1 with car off. it's been sitting all day i'm gonna check on the battery again.
When running, voltage should be 14.2. When the engine is off, the voltage should be about 12.5. At 13.8 volts, the battery is telling you it is about to short out internally from being over charged. Examine the battery carefully to see that the sides are not bulging. If the sides are bulging, get that battery out of the car before it explodes.
For some reason the photos aren't displaying on my computer, so I can't comment on them.
no bulging, not hot, battery MAY still be good after the taking the last photo i shut it off and even 1 at a time neither passenger windows wanted to roll up and the voltmeter with car off was reading 13.1v of course the Optima yellow top is a deep cycle. i let it sit all night, i'll check it again.
here are the photos again, maybe you can try to copy and paste these imgur photo links.
The first photo that you linked showing the nut looks like something was touching it that caused sparking/arcing. The nut also looks like it has been overheated and the metal has crystalized. Is that what the second photo is showing? I may not understand what I am looking at.
I have never seen the nut on the alternator glow. I would think that the amperage to do that would cause the wire to burn up first. There is a 120 amp fuse on that wire.
But still, the alternator putting out 15 plus volts is not good. A higher voltage causes more current to flow through the electrical devices. Motors and solenoids won't be affected, but transistors and integrated circuits can be. This would include the ECU, master power window switch, the SECU and the radio. But probably not, at least for short periods of time. Get that alternator replaced ASAP.
The first photo that you linked showing the nut looks like something was touching it that caused sparking/arcing. The nut also looks like it has been overheated and the metal has crystalized. Is that what the second photo is showing? I may not understand what I am looking at.
I have never seen the nut on the alternator glow. I would think that the amperage to do that would cause the wire to burn up first. There is a 120 amp fuse on that wire.
But still, the alternator putting out 15 plus volts is not good. A higher voltage causes more current to flow through the electrical devices. Motors and solenoids won't be affected, but transistors and integrated circuits can be. This would include the ECU, master power window switch, the SECU and the radio. But probably not, at least for short periods of time. Get that alternator replaced ASAP.
the second photo is of the post glowing, those were my thoughts as well. maybe alternator guy got bad parts or just ins't as good with Jap stuff. thinking about grabbing a high output unit off ebay. My guy supposedly upgraded this alt to 118 amps. and has been working fine so far of course car is 99% stock
alternator tested fine. insulator was damaged after being so hot, my guy replaced it for free. came home tonight to reinstall it and no crank, no lock or unlock lights, pretty dead that tells me there is a parasitic draw and or short to ground somewhere. i'm hoping the gas lid trunk circuit is the problem. i think i may try and start with parasitic draw test.
alternator tested fine. insulator was damaged after being so hot, my guy replaced it for free. came home tonight to reinstall it and no crank, no lock or unlock lights, pretty dead that tells me there is a parasitic draw and or short to ground somewhere. i'm hoping the gas lid trunk circuit is the problem. i think i may try and start with parasitic draw test.
The main one that is used is .The 2000 is different but it can be upgraded to a 2002 + thats the one below. They are way easy to install . I can take one out in less than a minute.they are on ebay .78850-5Y700
They are simple positive and negative,i test them all the time with a battery. if you have to put a simple switch on it.
The main one that is used is .The 2000 is different but it can be upgraded to a 2002 + thats the one below. They are way easy to install . I can take one out in less than a minute.they are on ebay .78850-5Y700
They are simple positive and negative,i test them all the time with a battery. if you have to put a simple switch on it.
Why thank you very much!!!
Got the alternator back in the car after 3 hours and lots of swearing. immediately after start it's i'm reading 14.8 volts on the batter posts and 13.2 volts at rest. i'm lacking an amp meter atm but, am continuing trouble shooting.
EDIT: down to 13.0 volts at rest in the time it took to posts this. i wonder if it's possible my batter is jacked up? did i jack it up tightening my negative terminal? i noticed it has this small amount of white stuff on the negative terminal now? i added an extra ground wire to the driver side inner fender on what looks like a blast resistor when i had a new negative terminal installed. the old negative copper wire was stripped back cleaned and new solid decent end was crimped on with big old bolt cutters and small but, not think black wire was crimp along with the negative battery cable. i ran that behind the air box the "ballast resistor's" bolt/nut. this wire has proper crimped on eyelet.
EDIT: down to 12.9v in the time it took to post edit. took off negative cable and it jumps between 12.9v and 13.0v. now to try and track down the drain.
EDIT: pulled a number of fuses and left them out including fuse number 3 and didn't make much different, it even jumped up to 15.8 volts while running! gonna see if i can find the ground strap for the engine.
EDIT: put a test light between the negative post and cable with the car off and doors closed and and boy did that puppy light up. it pulsates. idk if this because the car is self testing systems each time the the battery is unhooked. (some luxry cars do this and power systems for a bit before the draw drops off) i need some sleep now.
Got the alternator back in the car after 3 hours and lots of swearing. immediately after start it's i'm reading 14.8 volts on the batter posts and 13.2 volts at rest. i'm lacking an amp meter atm but, am continuing trouble shooting.
this is all it has ,no cuts or bolts .it pushes in .then the lock ring goes on. Then just plug in the cable.
well the charging system seems to be operating correctly today. we'll see if it drains over night. i double checked all my fuses yet the car will not lock or un lock with FOB unless it's running. inside door locks do not work unless the car is running as well. that is odd and i don't know how to get it to work again. i just put in brand new battery in the FOB just a few minutes ago.
EDIT: found i had my interior lights/locks fuse 1 slot over (wrong)
07-20-2016, 02:36 PM
dee dee dee prices. Free from junkyard. Every overpriced part should be a lawsuit. It's anti-consumer planned obsolescence.
