cgilley

155K, replaced radiator at 120K.

Last week, the car was running fine, but I did notice that I was hearing the radiator fan more and more. You just get used to how your car sounds. So, yesterday morning, checked the radiator, and it was low. Added about 1/2 gallon 50/50 and topped up the expansion tank. I did not burp the car. The coolant loss does not surprise me as I've been under the hood removing upper intake manifolds a few times over the past couple of months.

Car ran fine. No more fan noise, back to normal.

This morning, I'm running an errand and BAM - CEL came on and now I'm in limp mode. Crap, time to clean the MAF. I was about 5 miles from home, so kept the rpms below 2200. I did NOT look at the temperature gauge - being honest here - it could have been high then.

90 minutes later, it's time to go to the office, hop in the Max and off I go. First thing I notice is that although the CEL is still on (hadn't been reset, no surprise) I am no longer in limp mode. 3 miles from leaving home, I happen to notice the temperature gauge (which really OUGHT not to be in the upper left of the dash - oil pressure and temp need to be right in front of you). at the top and climbing.

Pull over, check things under the hood. Nothing leaking, just hot. Limped home with heater on full blast to help with the cooling. Car still very hot, we're now back into limp mode and I'm coasting home. Noticed that the heat coming from the vents started warm/hot, is now tepid.

Car cooling in driveway now. No coolant under it. I don't have the CEL code yet, but I'll get it.

As soon as the engine cools, going to put it on ramps and burp the coolant system. I'm thinking maybe a thermostat?

Appreciate any suggestions.

Derrick2k2SE

iTrader: (3)

You're clearly loosing coolant somewhere. The heater vents not blowing hot is a sure sign.

You can get a coolant system pressure tester on loan from the local parts store. This will pressurize the system so you can search for leaks. It's much easier on a cool engine in the driveway.

A bad thermostat can cause coolant loss but you'd be overheating a lot by that point. The overheating would be causing the loss. This much coolant loss is most likely a leak somewhere.

mclasser

Check the obvious stuff like hoses, rad, rad cap, etc. Also check the oil cooler line that runs near the oil filter housing. It carries coolant and if it's rusted to hell (like mine is), it's suspect.

cgilley

Well, I agree that low coolant == leak and eventual overheating once it gets low enough, but it's not low anymore. Once I filled it up that is when it started overheating. That's the interesting part.
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Correction: I did just fill it up, and I don't see coolant anywhere under the car (pisses me off when daughter's boyfriend brings his project car over and leaks oil on my driveway, so I watch for fluids. Just put the car up on the ramps, pulled the radiator cap, no coolant seen (I'm sure there is some in there somewhere, but the top of the radiator is bare). So, leak it is. Off to get pressure kit from store.

cgilley

Interesting... borrowed a pressure test kit from the local parts store. System will not hold pressure. Gets up to about 8psi then that's as high as it will go (my info says the system should go to 13psi). As soon as I stop pumping, the pressure fades fairly quickly below 5 psi. Might be that res tank, not sure.

No leaks that I can see, nothing on the ground, and to lose a full gallon+ of coolant in two days begs the question- where's the leak? The guy at the part store threw out a possible head gasket issue, but if that were the case, I would expect smoke out the tail pipe and a serious reduction in performance. And she is running well. Hmm.

Just ran it down to the store and back - all normal.

Mclasser - my Max is out of Maryland - I see what you mean about that pipe being badly rusted. That's a candidate for replacement.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Do you see any areas on the engine that look like a light gray mud has splashed on the engine? This is dried residue from anti freeze.

If a head gasket leaks coolant, it can manifest itself in 3 ways -
1 - leak into the cylinder and come out the tailpipe as whit smoke/steam. Plus the exhaust will have a sweet smell.
2 - leak into the oil. The oil in the oil pan will usually be a sludgy brown looking.
3 - leak out onto the ground.

cgilley

Agreed.

Nothing out the tailpipe, oil looks fine (just changed 2 weeks ago), nothing on the ground. Head bonking on fender

Gallon of coolant in back, waiting for more issues. We'll see how it plays out. If I can nurse it along, maybe I can get to next weekend (buried in work and life).

george__

iTrader: (1)

Coolant
Rad fans

cgilley

Well, I'm going throuugh 1/2 gallon of coolant / day. I suspect that I've got a radiator coming apart, so ordered a new one. Should be here by Saturday, so we'll see if that resolves the issue.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Only 35K on the radiator and it has to be replaced? I hope your not getting the same brand.

cgilley

Hey - it all comes from China these days... you just never know. So I dropped $40 on the radiator. If it isn't (and it isn't - read on), I'll put it on a shelf. If anyone needs a radiator, I'll give you a good deal

So, Mclasser gets the prize. I've been filling the radiator every day and waiting for something dramatic to happen - it did. It's the oil cooler line. My car came from Maryland and New York. My heart wanted the 6 speed, my head was saying, wtf? dude.

Appears that that line is failing and getting worse by the day. It's been a little warm in Atlanta the last week or so. When running, I think the pressure is a tad higher when parked, so I never saw the puddle. Today, I saw the puddle. Running in the driveway, I can see the leak. Looks like an easy fix.

Stupid question of the day: why aren't these stainless? Nissan, ripping defeat out of the jaws of victory.

Good max.

cgilley

I'm coming up short on local parts stores for this line - dealership only?

And for that matter - what about a piece of SS of appropriate diameter? This does not appear to be rocket science.

cgilley

FWIW, I'm going to jury rig this cooler pipe until I get the actual part in. Going to try jbweld first to see if I can stop the leak and get it to go a few more days. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the pipe with some high pressure hose with fittings to get me through.

The Nissan lookup code for this oil cooler pipe is 21302M. The actual part number is 14053-8J110 or Superseded to 14053-8J11A. Cost is $27/33 (sort of shocks me the dealer has lower prices).

After market - Dorman makes this, part 902-098, available at Advanced Auto, O-Reilly's, plan on at least one day ordering. Nominal cost is $42.

Correction: this is the wrong part. At first glance, it looks close but the bracketry is all wrong. Now when I go back to the online ordering, it clearly says it's the wrong part. I think i picked up the Dorman part # from ebay or amazon and just assumed. Sill me.

cgilley

Pleasantly surprised. No one had this in stock, and I wasn't going to wait a week for the dealer. Dropped by Advance Auto Parts, and they'll have it for me tomorrow morning.

Thought I might add this, since cars never break down when it's convenient. Should have ordered the part last night.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Depending on where the hole is located in the pipe, you could slip a piece of rubber hose over the hole in the pipe and put a pair of hose clamps on it. But if you get the new part right away, this won't be necessary.

cgilley

well, seems the part is wrong and I need my wheels, so the epoxied old part goes in in 5 minutes. we'll see if it holds. i'll get the nissan part on order ASAP.

crap, crap and a few more craps.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It seems like it's always some little thing that adds days to a project.