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I went to my local dealer and haggled with them to get the same price as Courtesy Nissan. Remember to get the gasket also.
**Their pic is wrong btw; That part number is for the housing and thermostat combo. It "cant" be removed from the housing. Should look like this:
Seriously only $25 from the dealer for a thermostat? I paid $50 for a new STANT brand thermostat from pep boys a few days ago wow. Well update today is I installed a used radiator because i was desperate for a solution to the overheating problem grabbed one from pullapart, and most likely found out it may be bad also. I took the car to Midas to find out exactly what was going on. They did a series of flushes and backflushed the heater core and radiator, I was told there was alot of debris and bugs ect that came out. So they did all of that only to try to charge me for a new radiator install and another coolant flush. I declined as i would have been paying almost $700. I will get a new radiator and install it and hope that is indeed the problem.
Seriously only $25 from the dealer for a thermostat? I paid $50 for a new STANT brand thermostat from pep boys a few days ago wow. Well update today is I installed a used radiator because i was desperate for a solution to the overheating problem grabbed one from pullapart, and most likely found out it may be bad also. I took the car to Midas to find out exactly what was going on. They did a series of flushes and backflushed the heater core and radiator, I was told there was alot of debris and bugs ect that came out. So they did all of that only to try to charge me for a new radiator install and another coolant flush. I declined as i would have been paying almost $700. I will get a new radiator and install it and hope that is indeed the problem.
I just put a new radiator in mine yesterday. It was a Spectre from Amazon, but Oreily sells the same part. ~$65 on amazon.
I just put a new radiator in mine yesterday. It was a Spectre from Amazon, but Oreily sells the same part. ~$65 on amazon.
Easiest radiator install I've ever done.
I just bought a radiator from Orileys last night and installed it. Seems that the fan bolt holes are smaller than oe. Was running out of time and didnt bother to bleed it jus filled with antifreeze and drove home where it attempted the overheating again smh.
I just bought a radiator from Orileys last night and installed it. Seems that the fan bolt holes are smaller than oe. Was running out of time and didnt bother to bleed it jus filled with antifreeze and drove home where it attempted the overheating again smh.
Same problem here, minus the overheating.
The oem rad has little nuts that hold the bolt. The Spectre one just has plastic holes that aren't threaded. I used a 1/4" elec impact to put them in.
As far as the bleeding, mine took every bit of 30 minutes running with the cap off before the low speed fans turned on and the bubbles stopped. My driveway is pretty steep so I just parked it nose in and let it run till that point. Turned it off and left it alone for a few hours then went out and topped off the rad. Put in nearly a quart after the cooldown.
You might (most likely) have air in the system still. Not saying that's your root cause, but it certainly doesn't help.
If your fans are working (which they are), your rad is new (which it is), your thermostat is new (which it is) and you're still overheating, there aren't many more options.
The oem rad has little nuts that hold the bolt. The Spectre one just has plastic holes that aren't threaded. I used a 1/4" elec impact to put them in.
As far as the bleeding, mine took every bit of 30 minutes running with the cap off before the low speed fans turned on and the bubbles stopped. My driveway is pretty steep so I just parked it nose in and let it run till that point. Turned it off and left it alone for a few hours then went out and topped off the rad. Put in nearly a quart after the cooldown.
You might (most likely) have air in the system still. Not saying that's your root cause, but it certainly doesn't help.
If your fans are working (which they are), your rad is new (which it is), your thermostat is new (which it is) and you're still overheating, there aren't many more options.
Waterpump
Headgasket
Air in the system.
Yeah the 2 most expensive items the water pump and hope headgasket is good. Havent driven the car much but seems like coolant is sucking into the engine since the radiator install from last night from the resorvior tank. But I installed a stant thermostat from pepboys and some people may suggest that to get a nissan brand thermostat. I will do that tomarro and flush some lines/ add more coolant and see if the overheating still occurs. If it indeed does then I know where to look next, Air/ waterpump or head gasket.
Yeah the 2 most expensive items the water pump and hope headgasket is good. Havent driven the car much but seems like coolant is sucking into the engine since the radiator install from last night from the resorvior tank. But I installed a stant thermostat from pepboys and some people may suggest that to get a nissan brand thermostat. I will do that tomarro and flush some lines/ add more coolant and see if the overheating still occurs. If it indeed does then I know where to look next, Air/ waterpump or head gasket.
If you rev the engine quickly with rad cap off, and water shoots out like a geyser (I've seen it squirt 6 ft just from starting it), then you know the pump is working.
Also, you can take the internals out of the old t-stat and run it wide open and you'll see the water flowing a lot through rad cap hole.
Water pump almost never fails except under extreme circumstances (only water corroding impeller to bits, ice, etc).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; 09-27-2016 at 02:55 PM.
If you rev the engine quickly with rad cap off, and water shoots out like a geyser (I've seen it squirt 6 ft just from starting it), then you know the pump is working.
Also, you can take the internals out of the old t-stat and run it wide open and you'll see the water flowing a lot through rad cap hole.
Water pump almost never fails except under extreme circumstances (only water corroding impeller to bits, ice, etc).
Thanks alot man for that info greatly appreciated.
Another tidbit about burping the cooling system - don't have the radiator filled all the way. That way it won't spray out as badly. Have the top tank filled only half way, that way the air can get out without pushing all the coolant out.
If the problem is indeed air in the system, it should've worked it's way out by now since you've tried bleeding the system a few times. Maybe there's a lot of air in there for some reason.
I drove around with a leaking radiator for like 6 months. It wouldn't gush, but would seep from the top seam. This was the prime opportunity for air to get into the system and cause an overheat, but it never did. When my mechanic finally replaced the rad, I heard a rushing water noise behind the dash -- a classic sign of trapped air. Again, no overheat.
Point of the story is that it's pretty difficult to overheat these cars with air in the system.
Well i installed a new nissan thermost, new radiator new oem radiator cap and bled the system twice, drove 1 mile and it still is overheating. Im hoping the water pump is bad because with the radiator cap open and stepping on the gas during the bleeding procedure nothing really comes out of the radiator like it used to. Its been air trapped in the heater core for a while because i used to hear the waterfall everytime i start the car, now i dont hear that anymore, and plus there is no gush of water upon starting the car with the radiator cap off like childovcorn menchend above. So hopefully the blades have corroded on the water pump which at 202K miles the coolant was obviously neglected by the previous owners because there is stop leak in there and it was a rusty orange color. But I will have a shop look at it on monday to perform a block test first, and then if it passes then proceed with the water pump install. I dont think ive blown a headgasket tho as the first time i saw the temp climb above normal i shut the car off and havent really driven it anywhere since then only a mile from a cold start. Cranks up fine and no steam or nothing. Just once warm the fans stay on full blast. I went to the infiniti dealership and was surprised the the labor on the water pump is just 4 hours and around $500
Well i installed a new nissan thermost, new radiator new oem radiator cap and bled the system twice, drove 1 mile and it still is overheating. Im hoping the water pump is bad because with the radiator cap open and stepping on the gas during the bleeding procedure nothing really comes out of the radiator like it used to. Its been air trapped in the heater core for a while because i used to hear the waterfall everytime i start the car, now i dont hear that anymore, and plus there is no gush of water upon starting the car with the radiator cap off like childovcorn menchend above. So hopefully the blades have corroded on the water pump which at 202K miles the coolant was obviously neglected by the previous owners because there is stop leak in there and it was a rusty orange color. But I will have a shop look at it on monday to perform a block test first, and then if it passes then proceed with the water pump install. I dont think ive blown a headgasket tho as the first time i saw the temp climb above normal i shut the car off and havent really driven it anywhere since then only a mile from a cold start. Cranks up fine and no steam or nothing. Just once warm the fans stay on full blast. I went to the infiniti dealership and was surprised the the labor on the water pump is just 4 hours and around $500
Another tidbit about burping the cooling system - don't have the radiator filled all the way. That way it won't spray out as badly. Have the top tank filled only half way, that way the air can get out without pushing all the coolant out.
Yes Ive had the coolant pressure tested at least twice, Once at pep boys, and another time at precision tune. They say the system is holding pressure.
Another tidbit about burping the cooling system - don't have the radiator filled all the way. That way it won't spray out as badly. Have the top tank filled only half way, that way the air can get out without pushing all the coolant out.
ok great info man i was filling the radiator all the way up and i noticed that once the coolant levels were lower it would not splash out as much just the fans are constantly running.
About how long should the bleeding procedure take?
Last edited by maxinout93; 10-01-2016 at 10:57 AM.
This is idea is perhaps off the wall, but check the ECTS. If it is bad, it causes some weird things. I would check with the engine cold so that you know it should be reporting outside temperature. There are 2 ways to check it.
The easiest way to check it is to use an obd code reader that has a "live data" capability. Plug the reader in, turn the ignition switch on and check the ECTS output.
The other way is to unplug the wires from the sensor and measure the resistance of the sensor. At 68º F, the sensor should measure 2.1 to 2.9K ohm. As temperature goes up, resistance goes down.
Was your car running hot when you replaced your water pump? What are the likely chances that I blew a head gasket? I am ancious to find out what the test is gonna be like tomarro and hope that its just the water pump smh.
Was your car running hot when you replaced your water pump? What are the likely chances that I blew a head gasket? I am ancious to find out what the test is gonna be like tomarro and hope that its just the water pump smh.
How many times did you let the car overheat? It's my understanding that VQ35's seldom blow head gaskets but of course, anything's possible.
Was your car running hot when you replaced your water pump? What are the likely chances that I blew a head gasket? I am ancious to find out what the test is gonna be like tomarro and hope that its just the water pump smh.
It would run hot, yes. HG was not leaking at the time. Original water pump was good. T-stat would not open (couldn't figure it out, but didn't drill a bleed hole in it). During the winter the head warped more or something and HG leaked. It was ****ed when I bought it.
It's possible the HG is bad, but you do have to really overheat it. If the coolant never boiled, then I would assume it shouldn't be warped.
How many times did you let the car overheat? It's my understanding that VQ35's seldom blow head gaskets but of course, anything's possible.
Well I never let it get to the top of the temp guage. It usually stays solid in the middle or below until it warms up a bit and needle goes up above the middle a little so i immediatly turn it off. BUt havent really been driving it lately only just to diagnose it.
Well good news guys my problem was indeed the water pump!! The pump itself was still good and the o-rings were still intact. Its just that the blades had corroded badly from previous owners neglecting to change the antifreeze. There was only maybe one blad left intact on the pump, thats kinda why it was so difficult to diagnose because i was not loosing any coolant, but when childof corn said to rev the heck out of the motor with the radiator cap off, and see if the coolant shoots out and it didnt, then i knew exactly what to pinpoint. This was a hard issue to diagnose and ive spent money on things i didnt really need only for the car to still run hot, so I had to do my own part replacing ect to get to the bottom of it because as many nissans that ive owned, ive never had a chain driven water pump go bad. I now have hott heat and most of all the car is not overheating. I will upload a picture of the bad pump soon. Thanks to all who helped!
Well good news guys my problem was indeed the water pump!! The pump itself was still good and the o-rings were still intact. Its just that the blades had corroded badly from previous owners neglecting to change the antifreeze. There was only maybe one blad left intact on the pump, thats kinda why it was so difficult to diagnose because i was not loosing any coolant, but when childof corn said to rev the heck out of the motor with the radiator cap off, and see if the coolant shoots out and it didnt, then i knew exactly what to pinpoint. This was a hard issue to diagnose and ive spent money on things i didnt really need only for the car to still run hot, so I had to do my own part replacing ect to get to the bottom of it because as many nissans that ive owned, ive never had a chain driven water pump go bad. I now have hott heat and most of all the car is not overheating. I will upload a picture of the bad pump soon. Thanks to all who helped!
JFC. That MFer needs shot. That means it was mostly water. It's a good thing you don't live up north. Ice would have ****ed it up good.
Well good news guys my problem was indeed the water pump!! The pump itself was still good and the o-rings were still intact. Its just that the blades had corroded badly from previous owners neglecting to change the antifreeze. There was only maybe one blad left intact on the pump, thats kinda why it was so difficult to diagnose because i was not loosing any coolant, but when childof corn said to rev the heck out of the motor with the radiator cap off, and see if the coolant shoots out and it didnt, then i knew exactly what to pinpoint. This was a hard issue to diagnose and ive spent money on things i didnt really need only for the car to still run hot, so I had to do my own part replacing ect to get to the bottom of it because as many nissans that ive owned, ive never had a chain driven water pump go bad. I now have hott heat and most of all the car is not overheating. I will upload a picture of the bad pump soon. Thanks to all who helped!
thanks for update, and glad ur back up and running hot
thanks for update, and glad ur back up and running hot
Thanks man the car seems to be running much better than ever, and the heat is hott. Im so glad for you guys help, at 202K miles i took a nice trip outta town lol.
im worried as heck w my current over heating issues..(i hope i didnt warp anything) ...sigh.... if thermostat doesnt do it... im gonna guess water pump.... based on your thread. i did radiator only cpl years ago
im worried as heck w my current over heating issues..(i hope i didnt warp anything) ...sigh.... if thermostat doesnt do it... im gonna guess water pump.... based on your thread. i did radiator only cpl years ago
As soon as you see that temp gauge needle rise any further than where it is supposed to sit, you should immediately turn the car off. Unless you are towing something or sitting idle in extreme heat, there is no reason the temp should rise unless something malfunctioned. With the amount of times you claimed it hit 100% temp, I would not be surprised if something is warped.
Yup. These cars should never move the needle past normal operating temp.
The cooling systems are very good unless something's wrong. If it does move you have an issue that could get worse without warning.
Last week I had to oversee an outdoor project. I was able to do it from inside my car.
Here in FL the temps were in the mid to high 90s and I was in the full sun, on white gravel through the hottest part of the day with no breeze. I left the car idling with the AC cranking the entire time. The needle didn't move one bit.
i hear ya guys, fingers crossed, the damn shop drove it around to "diagnos" as well, and found a leak on the tube at the top connected to teh head, they cant do it, i am driving less than 500 feet (half block down the road) to a shop that can tomorrow.
fingers crossed guys, i am really freaking scared.
guys, heres whats next, the next shop (50 yards down road) knows what the last shop found (leak in hose connected to head) and that an oil change didnt show anything out of the ordinary (in other words old oil was clean and didnt appear to be mixed)
does this test below seem legitimate or accurate,
he is going to open the radiator , run the car, and test for carbons in the coolant system, he said they will know right away if there is something wrong w the head gasket if they detect any carbon in the radiator / coolant system with this test.
Does this sound true? I need all the help I can get guys, seems like my car is on the chopping block and it will be all on this guys word.... or test... or both...
called shop at 1021 am, still working on "diagnosing" its either good that an easy carbon coolant test didnt tell them anything, or.... bad they can figure out whats actually wrong......
its the thermostat, and the water cooler pipe gaskets (the cast aluminum, water pipe thing that transfers coolants to the each side of the block)
they said theres a chance when they remove the water cooler pipe thing that they may find pitting in the thing it self or the block, but wont know till they get there... i am gonna research to find the right term on this pipe
09-24-2016, 01:11 PM
