2000 I30 Rear Brakes
#1
2000 I30 Rear Brakes
Last year I had the front brakes and rotors changed. I purchased Power Stop KOE 2280 from Rock Auto and my local mechanic put them on. I have been pleased with these brakes. I could have changed the rear brakes at the same time, but the mechanic said they had about 50% pad remaining and since I only put on about 3,000 mile per year, I decided to wait.
The local Nissan dealer had an oil chance special ($18.99 including rotation of tires) and I had that done today. I ask them to look at the rear brakes. They said I have about 30% remaining. They also mentioned that when I get my rear brakes replaced, new rotors will be required because the current ones are fairly rusty.
I looked on Rock Auto's website today and see two kits that will work. One is Power Stop KOE 1168 and the other KCOE 1168. The only difference is the latter includes calipers.
The Nissan dealer only mentioned brake pads and rotors, but since they took a cursory look, that does not mean I do not need new calipers. My questions are how does one know if new calipers are needed and should I just have the calipers replaced when the mechanic is changing the pads and rotors.
Thanks!
Anovice
The local Nissan dealer had an oil chance special ($18.99 including rotation of tires) and I had that done today. I ask them to look at the rear brakes. They said I have about 30% remaining. They also mentioned that when I get my rear brakes replaced, new rotors will be required because the current ones are fairly rusty.
I looked on Rock Auto's website today and see two kits that will work. One is Power Stop KOE 1168 and the other KCOE 1168. The only difference is the latter includes calipers.
The Nissan dealer only mentioned brake pads and rotors, but since they took a cursory look, that does not mean I do not need new calipers. My questions are how does one know if new calipers are needed and should I just have the calipers replaced when the mechanic is changing the pads and rotors.
Thanks!
Anovice
#2
It's not customary to replace calipers as a matter of routine. And I sure as Hell wouldn't replace OEM calipers that are working well with Chinese knock-offs that might not last six months. Unfortunately, Rock Auto is one of those companies that won't tell you where their products are made. I only buy from them if it's a brand I'm sure isn't Chinese, or if it's a small product I don't mind sending back after I read the box.
#4
Thanks!
I am going to leave well enough alone, including not changing the rotors and pads with 30% remaining.
Going forward, how will I know when I need to change the pads? Since I will be changing the rotors at the the same time, what would be wrong with waiting until I hear a squeal or a noise indicating that the pads are finished? As mentioned, I only put on approximately 3,000 miles per year (1,700 miles are on one trip all highway) and I am one mile for the mechanic.
Anovice
I am going to leave well enough alone, including not changing the rotors and pads with 30% remaining.
Going forward, how will I know when I need to change the pads? Since I will be changing the rotors at the the same time, what would be wrong with waiting until I hear a squeal or a noise indicating that the pads are finished? As mentioned, I only put on approximately 3,000 miles per year (1,700 miles are on one trip all highway) and I am one mile for the mechanic.
Anovice
#8
Serious, possibly noobish question - why should you change your pads at 30%? Why not wear them down to 10 or 20%? Is it just to avoid any possibility of running the pads down to 0% (which is a good reason) or is there some other mechanical reason?
#9
Go on youtube and save $$$...this is easy bro. My car got 3 original calipers with 200k miles...I changed one almost A year ago cause the piston was so hard to turn in the rear I had no choice....that was easy too with A buddy of mines. I got mines from Autozone....still fine and car stops on A dime after doing all rotors pads and that one caliper all together....don't half A$$ things that can save ur life.
#12
There's no mechanical reason. It's just good practice not to wait until they're too thin. People who try to squeeze the last 5K miles from their pads always end up with the brakes grinding.