'99 Maxima rough idle
04-21-2004, 12:49 PM
#1
Newbie - Just Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1
'99 Maxima rough idle
I have been troubleshooting the rough idle on my 99 Maxima with 55k (like many others based on all the posts I have seen). The problem is best-described as and intermittent jump or bump in the motor every 10-15 seconds (sometimes more often some times less often). I have only noticed the problem when the engine is at full operating temperature.
I had a 60k tune up done with no improvement. The dealer had no idea what the problem but mentioned the coil issue. They want $700 and no guarantee that will fix issue.
There are no codes or lights that have ever come on and the engine has never stalled or been hard starting. With no codes the dealer is as lost as I am.
I have seen several posts and know that there is a tech bulletin about the coils but don’t know the details. To my knowledge the 99’s are the only 4th generation that have the coil problem. I pulled out all the coils and checked each one of them per Chiltons manual. As expected all checked out fine. I bought 4 used coils off a ’96 (2 front and 2 back) and replaced them one at a time to try to figure out which one was bad. Every time I replaced one, I thought, “this is it” this will fix it. With only 4 replaced (I moved the coils all around but still have 2 of the originals in) out of 6 one or more still may be bad and or the new/used one could have been bad also? Maybe that’s why the dealers want to replace them all at once. However, I don’t believe in the domino theory. I have no way of knowing the used coils I bought aren’t bad (I know you get what you pay for and they were cheap)
What I don’t understand is that if a coil or two are bad how come the motor is fine at all other speeds except the idle? If the coil is bad the spark would fail on the plug. I would think that when the motor was under load while accelerating the coils would be more apt to fail. Also when the motor is cold then why not fail then? Are the windings in the coil pack failing or the boot?
For a time I gave up on the coil issue and tried some injector cleaner. Once again for a half a tank full I thought I fixed it, but no, problems back.
The only other thing the dealer mentioned was the 91 octane. I usually use it but sometimes use 87 octane. The dealer said that the EGR valve could be intermittently sticking. I have since run injector cleaner through the motor and 3 tanks of 91 octane. I have looked for the EGR valve but can’t find it per the Chiltons manual.
Any one that can add any useful advice, I would be very grateful
Thanks, Frustrated ’99 owner
I had a 60k tune up done with no improvement. The dealer had no idea what the problem but mentioned the coil issue. They want $700 and no guarantee that will fix issue.
There are no codes or lights that have ever come on and the engine has never stalled or been hard starting. With no codes the dealer is as lost as I am.
I have seen several posts and know that there is a tech bulletin about the coils but don’t know the details. To my knowledge the 99’s are the only 4th generation that have the coil problem. I pulled out all the coils and checked each one of them per Chiltons manual. As expected all checked out fine. I bought 4 used coils off a ’96 (2 front and 2 back) and replaced them one at a time to try to figure out which one was bad. Every time I replaced one, I thought, “this is it” this will fix it. With only 4 replaced (I moved the coils all around but still have 2 of the originals in) out of 6 one or more still may be bad and or the new/used one could have been bad also? Maybe that’s why the dealers want to replace them all at once. However, I don’t believe in the domino theory. I have no way of knowing the used coils I bought aren’t bad (I know you get what you pay for and they were cheap)
What I don’t understand is that if a coil or two are bad how come the motor is fine at all other speeds except the idle? If the coil is bad the spark would fail on the plug. I would think that when the motor was under load while accelerating the coils would be more apt to fail. Also when the motor is cold then why not fail then? Are the windings in the coil pack failing or the boot?
For a time I gave up on the coil issue and tried some injector cleaner. Once again for a half a tank full I thought I fixed it, but no, problems back.
The only other thing the dealer mentioned was the 91 octane. I usually use it but sometimes use 87 octane. The dealer said that the EGR valve could be intermittently sticking. I have since run injector cleaner through the motor and 3 tanks of 91 octane. I have looked for the EGR valve but can’t find it per the Chiltons manual.
Any one that can add any useful advice, I would be very grateful
Thanks, Frustrated ’99 owner
04-21-2004, 11:02 PM
#2
slackass
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 227
for those who dont know:
The primary job of the EGR is to lower combustion chamber temps thus lowereing NOX (tailpipe emission)
as for location, i believe it is under the throttle cable linkages...
http://autoclinic.net/article/imports/nissan_p0400.htm
The primary job of the EGR is to lower combustion chamber temps thus lowereing NOX (tailpipe emission)
as for location, i believe it is under the throttle cable linkages...
http://autoclinic.net/article/imports/nissan_p0400.htm
04-22-2004, 06:29 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 686
Originally Posted by DCORAZAL
I have been troubleshooting the rough idle on my 99 Maxima with 55k (like many others based on all the posts I have seen). The problem is best-described as and intermittent jump or bump in the motor every 10-15 seconds (sometimes more often some times less often). I have only noticed the problem when the engine is at full operating temperature.
I had a 60k tune up done with no improvement. The dealer had no idea what the problem but mentioned the coil issue. They want $700 and no guarantee that will fix issue.
There are no codes or lights that have ever come on and the engine has never stalled or been hard starting. With no codes the dealer is as lost as I am.
I have seen several posts and know that there is a tech bulletin about the coils but don’t know the details. To my knowledge the 99’s are the only 4th generation that have the coil problem. I pulled out all the coils and checked each one of them per Chiltons manual. As expected all checked out fine. I bought 4 used coils off a ’96 (2 front and 2 back) and replaced them one at a time to try to figure out which one was bad. Every time I replaced one, I thought, “this is it” this will fix it. With only 4 replaced (I moved the coils all around but still have 2 of the originals in) out of 6 one or more still may be bad and or the new/used one could have been bad also? Maybe that’s why the dealers want to replace them all at once. However, I don’t believe in the domino theory. I have no way of knowing the used coils I bought aren’t bad (I know you get what you pay for and they were cheap)
What I don’t understand is that if a coil or two are bad how come the motor is fine at all other speeds except the idle? If the coil is bad the spark would fail on the plug. I would think that when the motor was under load while accelerating the coils would be more apt to fail. Also when the motor is cold then why not fail then? Are the windings in the coil pack failing or the boot?
For a time I gave up on the coil issue and tried some injector cleaner. Once again for a half a tank full I thought I fixed it, but no, problems back.
The only other thing the dealer mentioned was the 91 octane. I usually use it but sometimes use 87 octane. The dealer said that the EGR valve could be intermittently sticking. I have since run injector cleaner through the motor and 3 tanks of 91 octane. I have looked for the EGR valve but can’t find it per the Chiltons manual.
Any one that can add any useful advice, I would be very grateful
Thanks, Frustrated ’99 owner
I had a 60k tune up done with no improvement. The dealer had no idea what the problem but mentioned the coil issue. They want $700 and no guarantee that will fix issue.
There are no codes or lights that have ever come on and the engine has never stalled or been hard starting. With no codes the dealer is as lost as I am.
I have seen several posts and know that there is a tech bulletin about the coils but don’t know the details. To my knowledge the 99’s are the only 4th generation that have the coil problem. I pulled out all the coils and checked each one of them per Chiltons manual. As expected all checked out fine. I bought 4 used coils off a ’96 (2 front and 2 back) and replaced them one at a time to try to figure out which one was bad. Every time I replaced one, I thought, “this is it” this will fix it. With only 4 replaced (I moved the coils all around but still have 2 of the originals in) out of 6 one or more still may be bad and or the new/used one could have been bad also? Maybe that’s why the dealers want to replace them all at once. However, I don’t believe in the domino theory. I have no way of knowing the used coils I bought aren’t bad (I know you get what you pay for and they were cheap)
What I don’t understand is that if a coil or two are bad how come the motor is fine at all other speeds except the idle? If the coil is bad the spark would fail on the plug. I would think that when the motor was under load while accelerating the coils would be more apt to fail. Also when the motor is cold then why not fail then? Are the windings in the coil pack failing or the boot?
For a time I gave up on the coil issue and tried some injector cleaner. Once again for a half a tank full I thought I fixed it, but no, problems back.
The only other thing the dealer mentioned was the 91 octane. I usually use it but sometimes use 87 octane. The dealer said that the EGR valve could be intermittently sticking. I have since run injector cleaner through the motor and 3 tanks of 91 octane. I have looked for the EGR valve but can’t find it per the Chiltons manual.
Any one that can add any useful advice, I would be very grateful
Thanks, Frustrated ’99 owner
I have the same exact problem as you..I went to a local mechanic..he tested the EGR valve..He said it was fine..However the symptom remains..Odd thing is I had my Ks replaced last month, and KS code is showing again as well as the 0302 code...We resetted ecu..Im 100% sure it will light up again...This symptom only happens when Im at normal temp, just like yourself..I think I will try Lucas fuel system service to see if this would make a difference.
04-22-2004, 07:35 AM
#5
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 188
I had the same problem.
I replaced one in the back row and the car ran fine for a few months. Then the bump at idle came back.
Then I tried the whole set from a working 96. That made my idle problem even worse. Maybe 96 coils are not compatible with the 99 cars.
I then purchase two more new ones for the back row. So with the back row new and the original 99 coils on the front row, it now runs beautiful. It is so smooth, that I can't tell the car is on when I'm sitting at a light.
I replaced one in the back row and the car ran fine for a few months. Then the bump at idle came back.
Then I tried the whole set from a working 96. That made my idle problem even worse. Maybe 96 coils are not compatible with the 99 cars.
I then purchase two more new ones for the back row. So with the back row new and the original 99 coils on the front row, it now runs beautiful. It is so smooth, that I can't tell the car is on when I'm sitting at a light.
05-30-2008, 05:32 AM
#6
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1
99 maxima idle jump, studder, bump
i am having the exact same problem. the studder when in drive but stopped. also the engine revs hard and fast when i start it. both of these issues started immediately, right after i had an oil change at jiffy lube two days ago. had 100k tune up with platinum spark plugs installed a month ago and everything was fine. do you think jiffylube put crap oil in my car? they used Quakerstate 10w30 bulk oil (live in Phoenix)... what should i do?
Last edited by dlpatte1; 05-30-2008 at 05:35 AM.
05-30-2008, 06:26 AM
#7
Do you guys have aftermarket intakes or reusable air filters?
The oil from K&N and similar filters fouls up the MAF from time to time and causes rough, jumpy idle and even stalling.
Head to an autoparts store, get a can of MAF cleaner and try that. It's $6 and has solved similar problems on my car before. In my opinion the stuff is worth it's weight in gold.
If it doesn't solve your problem you're only out $6 and your MAF will be clean
The oil from K&N and similar filters fouls up the MAF from time to time and causes rough, jumpy idle and even stalling.
Head to an autoparts store, get a can of MAF cleaner and try that. It's $6 and has solved similar problems on my car before. In my opinion the stuff is worth it's weight in gold.
If it doesn't solve your problem you're only out $6 and your MAF will be clean
05-30-2008, 04:02 PM
#8
I have a '99 SE with 112k on the clock and last summer I had some idle issues. Eventually I got the 0302 EGR code, so I had to clean the EGR out. I just got an 0302 code again yesterday, so I'm going to open it up and clean/test the EGR again.
On a related note, another of my cars a 97 Mercury Mountaineer also had EGR problems kick in around the ~90k mark so it isn't just Maximas. The EGR system is so overrated.
-hype
On a related note, another of my cars a 97 Mercury Mountaineer also had EGR problems kick in around the ~90k mark so it isn't just Maximas. The EGR system is so overrated.
-hype
05-30-2008, 04:21 PM
#9
while you are feeling the rough idle try disconnecting the coils one at a time. if the idle changes every cylinder i would start looking somewhere else like the throttle body or iac. if you unplug one of the coils and the idle doesnt change look for your problem at that cylinder.
05-30-2008, 07:20 PM
#11
Its a 99.. I had the same prob. I changed the Egr for a new one, tune up, TPS, and guess what the prob. didnt go away until i bought all new coils at the dealer $416.73 and thats with my emp. discount. the car runs like it never did before Smooth quick response i love it.. save youself the headache and just buy the coils.
05-30-2008, 09:17 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: South Denver Area(ish)
Posts: 393
I have been troubleshooting the rough idle on my 99 Maxima with 55k (like many others based on all the posts I have seen). The problem is best-described as and intermittent jump or bump in the motor every 10-15 seconds (sometimes more often some times less often). I have only noticed the problem when the engine is at full operating temperature.
I had a 60k tune up done with no improvement. The dealer had no idea what the problem but mentioned the coil issue. They want $700 and no guarantee that will fix issue.
There are no codes or lights that have ever come on and the engine has never stalled or been hard starting. With no codes the dealer is as lost as I am.
I have seen several posts and know that there is a tech bulletin about the coils but don’t know the details. To my knowledge the 99’s are the only 4th generation that have the coil problem. I pulled out all the coils and checked each one of them per Chiltons manual. As expected all checked out fine. I bought 4 used coils off a ’96 (2 front and 2 back) and replaced them one at a time to try to figure out which one was bad. Every time I replaced one, I thought, “this is it” this will fix it. With only 4 replaced (I moved the coils all around but still have 2 of the originals in) out of 6 one or more still may be bad and or the new/used one could have been bad also? Maybe that’s why the dealers want to replace them all at once. However, I don’t believe in the domino theory. I have no way of knowing the used coils I bought aren’t bad (I know you get what you pay for and they were cheap)
What I don’t understand is that if a coil or two are bad how come the motor is fine at all other speeds except the idle? If the coil is bad the spark would fail on the plug. I would think that when the motor was under load while accelerating the coils would be more apt to fail. Also when the motor is cold then why not fail then? Are the windings in the coil pack failing or the boot?
For a time I gave up on the coil issue and tried some injector cleaner. Once again for a half a tank full I thought I fixed it, but no, problems back.
The only other thing the dealer mentioned was the 91 octane. I usually use it but sometimes use 87 octane. The dealer said that the EGR valve could be intermittently sticking. I have since run injector cleaner through the motor and 3 tanks of 91 octane. I have looked for the EGR valve but can’t find it per the Chiltons manual.
Any one that can add any useful advice, I would be very grateful
Thanks, Frustrated ’99 owner
I had a 60k tune up done with no improvement. The dealer had no idea what the problem but mentioned the coil issue. They want $700 and no guarantee that will fix issue.
There are no codes or lights that have ever come on and the engine has never stalled or been hard starting. With no codes the dealer is as lost as I am.
I have seen several posts and know that there is a tech bulletin about the coils but don’t know the details. To my knowledge the 99’s are the only 4th generation that have the coil problem. I pulled out all the coils and checked each one of them per Chiltons manual. As expected all checked out fine. I bought 4 used coils off a ’96 (2 front and 2 back) and replaced them one at a time to try to figure out which one was bad. Every time I replaced one, I thought, “this is it” this will fix it. With only 4 replaced (I moved the coils all around but still have 2 of the originals in) out of 6 one or more still may be bad and or the new/used one could have been bad also? Maybe that’s why the dealers want to replace them all at once. However, I don’t believe in the domino theory. I have no way of knowing the used coils I bought aren’t bad (I know you get what you pay for and they were cheap)
What I don’t understand is that if a coil or two are bad how come the motor is fine at all other speeds except the idle? If the coil is bad the spark would fail on the plug. I would think that when the motor was under load while accelerating the coils would be more apt to fail. Also when the motor is cold then why not fail then? Are the windings in the coil pack failing or the boot?
For a time I gave up on the coil issue and tried some injector cleaner. Once again for a half a tank full I thought I fixed it, but no, problems back.
The only other thing the dealer mentioned was the 91 octane. I usually use it but sometimes use 87 octane. The dealer said that the EGR valve could be intermittently sticking. I have since run injector cleaner through the motor and 3 tanks of 91 octane. I have looked for the EGR valve but can’t find it per the Chiltons manual.
Any one that can add any useful advice, I would be very grateful
Thanks, Frustrated ’99 owner
06-05-2008, 07:16 PM
#13
Had this problem spent hundreds of dollars - fixed for $7
I bought a 95 SE 2 years ago and started having the stuttering/jerking issue. I changed injectors, coils, fuel pump and spent a great amount of money on all of this. In the end it took a call to Russia to my friend who told me that he fixed his passat with the same symptoms by replacing the mass air flow (maf) sensor. I knew that this was a possibility but never believed that everything was so simple. Instead of replacing it, i bought the 6 dollar CRC MAF creaner and autozone, and now the car runs great. The dirty MAF throws no codes - it just screws up the mixture and thus the car runs like sh*t. If the MAF cleaner doesnt help, buy a MAF from a totaled max at a junkyard. BTW as xenomax said if you disconnect the coils one at a time and there is a noticible difference (the engine starts shaking) - then its not the coil.
09-27-2009, 08:30 PM
#14
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2
I want to thank all of you guys and Maxima.org you guys saved me $$$$$$$$$ and time and lozing my mind...this FIX WORKED FOR ME...MAF CLEANER!!!
The short story..I swaped my 94 clean altima for 98 with 2005 3.5 with 5spd yes i got a great deal but not without some freaking out I did all my own work 280zx and 323 mazada but nothing like this there were wire not connected and bla bla bla..so the guy i got it from didnt like the bad gas milage and it has a lowing kit on it as well after market k&n air intake ***** that k&n oil FFFF'"SS up the MFS!!!!!! FYI
along with 14600 with 98 ecu and harness..shorty headers.it came with new starter and battery
(CHECK ENG LIGHT STAYS ON AND AIRBAG and i tried the airbag thread)...I PUT ON LITTLE CHIP DAILNEW FRONT AXELS saw that black thick oily crap in my tireweld and saw small hole in my boot so got me axel the other was replaced just after i got it...been 6mths now. WOW!!!When i first got it starting it was a pain cause sometime it would just click or stall right after it turned over??,so the TEMP SWITCH put on it didnt have one and after i got the injectors cleaned and fuel filter and no more stalling and I got new NGK PLAT plugs new exhust and clean K&N air the car ran worst other than it wound't stall . Nobody new FECALMATTER!! THEN I SAW THIS TAG AND IT FIXED MY ISSUE.CURRENTLY CAM SENCOR LEAKING I READ I JUST NEED TO REPACE THE O-RING??AND I JUST REPLACE THE OCU SENCOR NO MORE OIL LEAK DOWN THERE AND IT ONLY HAPPAND WHEN I WAS DRIVING SO NO OIL POOLS IN THE DRIVEWAY BUT THANK G*D THATS FIXED AND .....THANKS dex\\
Do you guys have aftermarket intakes or reusable air filters?
The oil from K&N and similar filters fouls up the MAF from time to time and causes rough, jumpy idle and even stalling.
Head to an autoparts store, get a can of MAF cleaner and try that. It's $6 and has solved similar problems on my car before. In my opinion the stuff is worth it's weight in gold.
If it doesn't solve your problem you're only out $6 and your MAF will be clean
Shoto925
Senior Member
'96 Maxima GLE
i bought the 6 dollar CRC MAF creaner and autozone, and now the car runs great. The dirty MAF throws no codes - it just screws up the mixture and thus the car runs like sh*t. If the MAF cleaner doesnt help, buy a MAF from a totaled max at a junkyard. BTW as xenomax said if you disconnect the coils one at a time and there is a noticible difference (the engine starts shaking) - then its not the coil.Tver_Chupra06
Member
95 Maxima SE
The short story..I swaped my 94 clean altima for 98 with 2005 3.5 with 5spd yes i got a great deal but not without some freaking out I did all my own work 280zx and 323 mazada but nothing like this there were wire not connected and bla bla bla..so the guy i got it from didnt like the bad gas milage and it has a lowing kit on it as well after market k&n air intake ***** that k&n oil FFFF'"SS up the MFS!!!!!! FYI
along with 14600 with 98 ecu and harness..shorty headers.it came with new starter and battery
(CHECK ENG LIGHT STAYS ON AND AIRBAG and i tried the airbag thread)...I PUT ON LITTLE CHIP DAILNEW FRONT AXELS saw that black thick oily crap in my tireweld and saw small hole in my boot so got me axel the other was replaced just after i got it...been 6mths now. WOW!!!When i first got it starting it was a pain cause sometime it would just click or stall right after it turned over??,so the TEMP SWITCH put on it didnt have one and after i got the injectors cleaned and fuel filter and no more stalling and I got new NGK PLAT plugs new exhust and clean K&N air the car ran worst other than it wound't stall . Nobody new FECALMATTER!! THEN I SAW THIS TAG AND IT FIXED MY ISSUE.CURRENTLY CAM SENCOR LEAKING I READ I JUST NEED TO REPACE THE O-RING??AND I JUST REPLACE THE OCU SENCOR NO MORE OIL LEAK DOWN THERE AND IT ONLY HAPPAND WHEN I WAS DRIVING SO NO OIL POOLS IN THE DRIVEWAY BUT THANK G*D THATS FIXED AND .....THANKS dex\\Do you guys have aftermarket intakes or reusable air filters?
The oil from K&N and similar filters fouls up the MAF from time to time and causes rough, jumpy idle and even stalling.
Head to an autoparts store, get a can of MAF cleaner and try that. It's $6 and has solved similar problems on my car before. In my opinion the stuff is worth it's weight in gold.
If it doesn't solve your problem you're only out $6 and your MAF will be clean
Shoto925
Senior Member
'96 Maxima GLE
i bought the 6 dollar CRC MAF creaner and autozone, and now the car runs great. The dirty MAF throws no codes - it just screws up the mixture and thus the car runs like sh*t. If the MAF cleaner doesnt help, buy a MAF from a totaled max at a junkyard. BTW as xenomax said if you disconnect the coils one at a time and there is a noticible difference (the engine starts shaking) - then its not the coil.Tver_Chupra06
Member
95 Maxima SE
Last edited by dmack69; 09-27-2009 at 08:48 PM. Reason: TO SAY THANKS
09-28-2009, 12:05 AM
#15
oaky, seriously im not in the mood to read everything you just said. so im gonna go ahead and say a couple things.. 1. This thread is like a year old these problems are all already fixed.. , 2. im glad to hear that MAF cleaner worked for you.. But you dont exactly need to tell the whole world.. and 3. Please No CAPS.
But im not going to sit here and flame you... If this thread were new im sure these people would be grateful that you were trying to help, just try to stick to new threads from now on please?...
But im not going to sit here and flame you... If this thread were new im sure these people would be grateful that you were trying to help, just try to stick to new threads from now on please?...
11-06-2009, 07:47 AM
#17
nycmaximas member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 644
Im actually glad that this thread popped back up... I was looking at an issue like this for my car. I will try the MAF Cleaner. But I did hear that you could damage the sensor if you aren't careful?? I don't remember where I saw that but???
Besides that rough idle... My car would just stall when I put it in Drive???? Neutral or Park is fine but once I'm in Drive or Reverse, It would die????
Any Help????
Besides that rough idle... My car would just stall when I put it in Drive???? Neutral or Park is fine but once I'm in Drive or Reverse, It would die????
Any Help????
12-03-2010, 11:52 AM
#18
Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: cleveland tn
Posts: 62
Im actually glad that this thread popped back up... I was looking at an issue like this for my car. I will try the MAF Cleaner. But I did hear that you could damage the sensor if you aren't careful?? I don't remember where I saw that but???
Besides that rough idle... My car would just stall when I put it in Drive???? Neutral or Park is fine but once I'm in Drive or Reverse, It would die????
Any Help????
Besides that rough idle... My car would just stall when I put it in Drive???? Neutral or Park is fine but once I'm in Drive or Reverse, It would die????
Any Help????
12-05-2010, 05:37 PM
#19
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
I'm glad this thread popped up. I'm having the current issue right now, I have a 98 with approx 125k miles and the issue hasn't left for a year now. I'll give my mechanic a call (he already replaced the coils and cleaned the throttle body and maf..still same issue) tomorrow to check the other things this thread was talking about (egr valve, engine mounts, wire harnesses.. etc.). Hopefully we can get to the bottom of this cuz it's driving me nuts!
01-07-2011, 09:35 PM
#20
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
Ok so here's an update:
A week after my previous post I finally made it to my mechanic, advised that it may be the fuel injectors. *No engine light. Decided to throw it on the carbon clean (something like that) to clean out the fuel system. After picking it up it felt fine for about 20 minutes and the sputtering came back.. not too surprised actually lol i'm getting used to it.
a couple of weeks ago cel comes on and was showing misfire on cylinder one. Mechanic changed spark plug on one and switched coils on one and three to see if it's the coils. If cel comes back and shows misfire on 3 then we know it's def the coil.
a couple of days ago driving home car is sputtering like crazy with harsh idling and throws another cel (which i was actually happy about lol) because of cylinder 3 misfire. Mechanic replaces coil 1 and puts the coils in proper order.
Picked it up today and drove it for 15 min before getting home just to try to duplicate the issue. So far so good but i'm feeling confident that this solves the problem.
FYI no engine light came on until the misfire on cylinder one and that was about a year and a half of this crap!
A week after my previous post I finally made it to my mechanic, advised that it may be the fuel injectors. *No engine light. Decided to throw it on the carbon clean (something like that) to clean out the fuel system. After picking it up it felt fine for about 20 minutes and the sputtering came back.. not too surprised actually lol i'm getting used to it.
a couple of weeks ago cel comes on and was showing misfire on cylinder one. Mechanic changed spark plug on one and switched coils on one and three to see if it's the coils. If cel comes back and shows misfire on 3 then we know it's def the coil.
a couple of days ago driving home car is sputtering like crazy with harsh idling and throws another cel (which i was actually happy about lol) because of cylinder 3 misfire. Mechanic replaces coil 1 and puts the coils in proper order.
Picked it up today and drove it for 15 min before getting home just to try to duplicate the issue. So far so good but i'm feeling confident that this solves the problem.
FYI no engine light came on until the misfire on cylinder one and that was about a year and a half of this crap!
01-20-2011, 01:11 PM
#21
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
final update. the next day sputtering came back. Mechanic finally was able to get the problem to come about all the time. Bad fuel injector on cylinder 5. Still the check engine light never reflected that problem.. replaced fuel injector and problem FINALLY gone!
01-21-2011, 08:27 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Worcester, MA
Posts: 4,011
yeah man, if its not plugs, pump, coils, sensors, FPR, or MAF, then its the injectors.
The factory service manual has a procedure for testing them. Your mechanic is only good at nuts and bolts. He sucks at diagnostics apparently.
The factory service manual has a procedure for testing them. Your mechanic is only good at nuts and bolts. He sucks at diagnostics apparently.
02-21-2011, 05:39 PM
#23
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 9
I am glad you guys have all these problems and its not just a simple fix. I recently bought a 2k SE with a a/t and has a cel and rough idle. It does have almost 200k miles. The person I bought it from just replaced the coils in sep of 09 so I am guessing its not the coils. I did do a quick tear down of the intake down to the TB. Maf looked immaculate, so I am not sure that could be a problem. Tb was gummed up so I went to town with some gumout and that helped the idle a tad. I havent taken it to the auto store since this is such a glorious holiday that even the banks are closed. So without knowing the code I am thinking that if the TB was gummed up that bad that the EGR might be worse. I am fairly knew to nissan engines and own only chevy LS engine trucks. Even though this is a gen 4 area the engines are the same are they not?
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