jzwu

I recently bought a Mityvac oil extraction kit from Amazon.com and it works well to extract oil from the dipstick, so I don't have to crawl underneath my car to change oil.

But to change the oil filter, I still have to crawl under. So I am thinking about only changing oil filter once a year for about 15,000 miles. Does it last that long? Or that many miles? I have now a NAPA gold oil filter on the car with ~7500 miles. Should I change it now?

I searched the web and found that some say it will be even better 'cuz large particles clog the large pores so the filter does a better job filtering smaller particles. Of course, the opposite opinion is that a clogged filter cannot do its job.

What gives? Also, has anyone used the Mityvac for oil changes? I search the forum and only found a few posts using it for brake fluid change.

Maxgig

iTrader: (5)

IMO I think you would be fine if you let it ride for 2 oil changes, or around 7-10k miles. I wouldn't go much further past that. I tried using an extraction pump back in the late 80's early 90's on my Daytona and Escort but got tired of having to feed the hose into the tube and being uncertain if I had hit bottom or not.

Some guys on here will call you lazy or cheap, I won't, I feel your pain because I've been there. What I would suggest to you though is that you invest in some car ramps and use those every 2nd oil change when you do take the filter off.

jzwu

Yeah, I am thinking the same.

I tried some vacuum oil pumps in the 90's too and it didn't work out at all. But now the Mityvac uses a better technology and works well.

The advantage of the Mityvac is you don't get your hands dirty and there is no oil splashing around on the floor either. It is a bigger pain to clean up afterwards. You can practically wear your business suit and do the oil change barring the filter change.

NisTech

go to a mall parking lot turn steering wheel all the way to right reach underneath with a good filter wrench and there u go

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

potentially shortening the life of your car by letting a crappy napa filter stay on for 15k..and not spending 5 mins or less on the ground=terrible... if you really dont want to do it bring it somewhere dont take shortcuts ever,... im sorry.. a clogged filter cant do its job,....

jzwu

Are you serious? Is it that bad?

I bought the NAPA gold filter because of the good things people say about it, and it costs $8, more than the Nissan OEM one.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Get the mobil 1 filter with some syn oil and change it at 8k miles. Advance is having a sale until the 25th for a 5 qts of any mobil1 syn + oil filter for 30 bucks.

You never change the oil w/o the filter. You can change the filter and reuse the oil with syn (up to 15k mi is good with top offs and amount lost in filter change). Most wear on the engine (until the oil's max life - talking mobil1 syn) is the 1st 3k. So changing at 8k is perfect for getting good protection and not wasting money. If you drive hard, maybe something like 7k would be preferable.

Idk how mobil's oil performs better with several thousand miles on it compared to fresh, but it does.

SEmy2K2go

iTrader: (10)

WTF? Great suggestion

n3985

iTrader: (36)

NAPA Gold are quality filters, but if you want to long service life get Amsoil and be worry free. talkinghorse in the group buy forum has great prices and might as well as pickup an Amsoil Ea air filter or oil while you are at it.

Brianm0121

2 oil changes i'd say

Progress

iTrader: (26)

I've never changed my oil without changing the filter. I'm under the impression the synthetic oil lasts longer than the filter.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Well, that's the point of the thread, to see if anyone has an answer to when it IS clogged, and in bypass.

And no one has an answer so far.

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

right.. but there are too many variable factors.. such as

1.Driving style-''beating on the car'' or never seeing about 4K,..

2.Driving environment-highway/city- differences in speed

3.Location-weather, Temperatures, elevation

4.Type and age of intake/filter- letting more particles/dirt through

5. Oil- types and weights

6. engine- high miles/low miles

and there are prob more that i cant think of

all im saying is with so many variables making it difficult to find a true answer of when its in bypass, why not play it safe and change the oil and filter TOGETHER at somewhere in the middle of the argument...lets say ~5k,..but at the end of the day its your car not mine

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

[quote=mist max2000;6917404]
all im saying is with so many variables making it difficult to find a true answer of when its in bypass, why not play it safe and change the oil and filter TOGETHER at somewhere in the middle of the argument.../quote]

Agreed, except we have no idea what the "middle" is.

We know at zero miles the filter is good. We have no upper limit to when it is bad.

jzwu

To be scientific, a study is needed to show under the Normal driving condition how long (many miles) an oil filter gets fully clogged, kinda like those oil flow tests done for oil filters.

Another point is that the 2001 Maxima owner's manual says under normal driving condition the oil & filter change interval is 7500 miles. So I assume Nissan knows at least the OEM oil filter will last that long.

Often I find the manufacturer's recommended service intervals are quite liberal, meaning they are not pushing to the limits at all.

zero2sixtyZ

iTrader: (30)

Would it be worth it by not replacing the filter? I'd rather have piece of mind than $7-10 per oil change.

jzwu

Well, it is not about $$$. Talking science and facts here.

P. Samson

As mist max2000 has explained quite well to you, nobody is going to be able to tell you when the filter will start to bypass because of all the variables that will affect the point at which the oil flow through the filter media will be restricted enough (a sufficient pressure differential across the filter) to cause the bypass valve to open. Instead of second guessing the manufacturers recommendations in the Owner's Manual, which by the way makes no differentiation because of dino or synthetic oil use in relation to oil change frequency, I highly recommend that you simply follow those recommendations. In other industries (ie. aircraft) where the engines are worth up to about 20 million bucks plus and damage caused by lubrication issues can cost millions to repair, they do have an impending filter clogging warning system for the main oil filter (among others), but I doubt that you are ever going to find that on any standard production car.

vball_max

iTrader: (5)

I just bought a case of 12 amsoil filters. If you by if from the guys in the group buy section (talkinghorse or HTPerformance), it comes out to like $0.50 more per filter than the M1 filters. And the quality and performance are far superior and guaranteed for 25k miles. I will still be changing mine every 5k because I am ****, but if you want longer change intervals, it may be something to consider.

modenaf1

iTrader: (3)

I don't **** around. My VQ30DE has near 180K miles on it and rev the crap out of it sometimes. Every 3000 miles when I go to do my oil change it hasn't burned a drop. Never have I had an engine so reliable in that regard. I don't mess around and take any chances with it though since I drive it hard. Religiously every 3 k I put on a new Mobil 1 m1-110 oil filter and new oil.

CoolMax

iTrader: (7)

http://forums.maxima.org/fluids-lubr...viscosity.html

jzwu

Because local Nissan Stealership wants $9.99 for the OEM oil filter, I am getting the Mobil 1 or K&N one at Autozone or Kragen.

Which one is better? They cost about the same around $12-13.

I have heard the Mobil 1 had leaking problems and I have had not so good experience with the K&N air filter. Never used K&N oil filter before and I hope it is a different design/mechanism.

Progress

iTrader: (26)

I have used the Mobil 1 filter since I've had the car and have had no problems with it.

Norm Peterson

If you're that worried about getting your hands dirty, perhaps automotive mechanical maintenance isn't right for you. But if you are going to get into this either from choice or financial necessity - keep a set of clothes that are barely one step above shop rag status. Sloppiness can be avoided. Lay down some newspapers under everything, and I think some drain pans come with lids. And I wouldn't dream of doing an oil change inside the garage in the first place.

Actually, I look at having to crawl down underneath to get at the drain plug and the filter as being an situation that forces me to get down there where I can look at other stuff.

Not changing the filter means that your fresh oil change starts out at least 6% dirty before you even leave the driveway based on the amount of oil trapped in the filter and the passages connected to it that no vacuum method will ever remove. Being easier to see the oil level on the dipstick is not enough reason to leave that old stuff in the engine.


Edit: I change the oil variously between 3000 and 5000 miles, and I use the slightly longer of two Nissan filters (don't have part number handy). And I use a new drain plug ring each time, too. To keep a $30k car maintained, I'm not going to complain about having to spend a few extra dollars two or three times a year.


Norm

Colonel

Mobil1 filters run on my Rav, MR2 and Maxima for years. Never a leaking problem.

I also:
* check that the o-ring comes off with the filter.
* clean the mating surface on the engine.
* smear a a new oil film on the new filter gasket.

Cheaping out and not spending 10 minutes and 12 bucks is not a good thing. You either need money or motivation. Money to have it done right or motivation to do it yourself correctly.

And I would NEVER leave a filter on for 15K...thats just plain insane. I change my filters at 6 months on my long OCI's. Some filters are claiming longer OCI's, but I would do personal testing first before I just ran 15K on a filter. And while the testing is good, to test one batch of oil I can purchase two filters.

On the maxima its easy. Slow spin until the oil starts to drain out the filter. Come back later and spin it off. Add oil to the new filter, spin it on and fire up the car. Let it run like a minute check for leaks and turn it off. About 30 - 60 minutes later check the oil level and top off as necessary.

maxipower

i haven t seen any mention of a fram oil filter,,i use fram in my 2001 se with castrol synthenic oil 10w30 for winters and 10w40 in hot summer months,,,i wonder if the fram is doing its job as filtering ,,i only got 63 k miles on my se..i do my own oil and filter changes and it takes less than 20 minutes ...i change my oil three times a year,,,

kdarcangelis870

For the record, I have not heard anything good about the fram oil filters. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/515 My 2000 gle has only seen oem nissan filters and Castrol GTX oil. Cheaping out on a 8 dollar oil filter then having it leak, clog, or bypass valve fail and seize up your 4000 dollar engine doesn't sound very logical to me. Change the filter with the oil.

spaceghost85

definitely agree there is no reason for you not to change you oil filter every time you change your oil, its only 8 bucks if you don't have that to spare you have bigger problems

jzwu

Well, I always use Nissan oil filter and for once the NAPA Gold when I was far from any Nissan dealer. I used to take my car to a local shop to do oil change and bringing a Nissan oil filter, but I recently moved and the the local shops take forever to do an oil change. Guess it is not a profitable service.

It takes over 1 hr to have it done. So I would rather do it myself as I did before. But you know after every oil change I got my hands and forearms dirty and the smell doesn't go away for a few days. During which time my love life just goes down the drain (wife wouldn't even let me get close.... LOL

So because of this, I got the Mityvac and hope to do a clean job myself whenever I want. For my other Toyota cars, I can change the oil filter without getting under the car since they are front mounted.

Colonel

Wow. The Maxima is about the easiest oil change until we got my wifes Rav. You must not be doing something correctly. There should be no reason to get oil all over your hands and forearm. At most when you pull the drain plug you will get oil on your one hand. Might want to find someone close that changes oil and get some pointers.

And should you be that sloppy, use some Fast Orange hand cleaner. No oil smell afterwards.

jzwu

Actually the biggest oil splash happens when changing the oil filter. There is leftover oil in the filter and when you get it off oil just pours out since the filter is oriented downward.

Am I doing it wrong?

Norm Peterson

You can't help what drips down onto the lower parts of the engine (you'll need a rag anyway, and you might want to wear latex gloves), but you can do a few things to help keep it from finding a path down your arm. Try holding the filter such that most of your hand is above and at the very end of the can instead of underneath near the threads. If some gets on your thumb, keep holding your thumb pointed down.


Norm

Colonel

Filter should be hand tight. I "unscrew" it just a bit until it starts dripping and then give it about one or two more SLOW spins. This allows the greater portion of the oil to come out of the filter. Once the oil slows considerably or stops I then carefully unspin it the rest of theway.

Latex gloves are a good suggestion as well.

jzwu

Just changed out the oil filter with Mobil 1. Slowly turned the filter until it started to drip and a cardbox with newspapers underneath to catch oil.

It was a clean job and my hands didn't get dirty at all with latex gloves.

Thanks guys for the help!