Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

I did a search and for some reason, most of the threads seemed completely unrelated.

My ABS light came on this morning after driving about 2 miles. Turn off the car, the light is out when I restart but comes back on after driving a mile or so. I noticed the last restart, that just before the ABS light came on, my speedometer was reading 20 mph and I know I was going faster than that. When the ABS light came on, the speedometer returned to the actual speed I was going, which was 40 mph.

I just had the axle, hub and wheel bearing replaced on Monday and this problem started today (Thursday). I've driven about 200 miles since the work was done. Wet and cold today, so all I have done was look at the front wheel area to make sure the ABS sensor isn't just hanging down. Other than making sure the sensor bolt is tight, what else should I be looking at?

VQP0WER

Is your cruise control working? If not, any of those lights on and/or flashing?

Gonna need a Consult machine to get codes.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

I didn't check the cruise control. The ABS light is solidly illuminated though.

VQP0WER

Did you replace the parts previously? If not, did you talk to your mechanic?

Sounds like a bad sensor. They typically damage the wiring/sensor when removing all the surrounding parts.

Might want to check resistance in the wiring. You have the ESM? Check page BR-62 for reference.

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

The best way is to ohm test the speeds sensor.
Is the ABS engaging at all during braking?

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Found the problem...the shop didn't tighten the bolt for the ABS sensor. I figured I'd pull the sensor out, thinking maybe they got grease on it. Put the 12mm socket on the bolt and it wasn't even tight. Still removed the sensor to make sure it was clean. Took a lot more turns of the ratchet to tighten it back down than to remove it.

VQP0WER

Good deal! Easy fix.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Now. if only tightening a bolt would take care of my bad O2....

VQP0WER

Just spray it with WD40

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Since the either search function is FUBAR, or the threads are gone....how do you pull the ABS codes?

VQP0WER

Have you read this thread you posted in? If so, you would have seen in post #2, where I said you need a Consult II machine (dealer) to scan.

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

mine just came on also

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

What kind of mechanic do you take your cars to that "typically" break parts and not fix them.

Anyways, if it was just a loose sensor than that was an easy fix.

You can read the ABS codes with other scan tools besides the Nissan Consult tool, just not with your regular code reader.

VQP0WER

And what scanner would this be, and who would have one?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

More than likely a Modis, Solus, etc high end diagnostic tool can read the codes. Most likely found in the higher end shops, not your typical mom and pop type places due to extreme cost.

But a CONSULT-II is easier to find, and is guaranteed to read them.

Actually, IIRC Cipher can read the ABS codes as well.

VQP0WER

I was actually looking at a nice Actron scanner, but the dang thing can only read Domestic ABS codes.

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

my abs light is on as well. just started happening on Tuesday...I was driving home from work sitting at a red light, and i felt the pulsation of the ABS engaging/disengaging FOLLOWED by the amber "ABS" light in my dash

(arrrrgh another damn problem with the max *sigh*)

So at this point i cut the car off, and start it back up....ABS light is OFF.......I then drive for two blocks and it comes back on


Today it goes out and I drive for like 75 miles without it coming on, now its back on and going on/off....

When i put the car in accessory mode, the ABS light stays on and i can hear the ABS disengaging/engaging as i go from Ignition off, to Ignition on

Would this be sensor related or would it be the ABS pump/actuator?

Since consult II is the next best thing and the ABS light is on, based on what im reading the best thing to do is to take it into the STEALERSHIP since i dont know any one local with a consult II

VQP0WER

hi-tek,

Your cheapest option right now would be to pull the tires off and clean the sensors. If that doesn't seem to work, you might have to bite the bullet.

MaxSE2001

iTrader: (1)

sorry to go off topic but is something wrong with the search engine cuz its not giving related topics??

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Sucks that my regular code reader wouldn't pull the codes but glad I figured it out anyway.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I did see where you said that.

I'm looking for a write up of the "ground pin #9" method.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

That may work for prior models, but the A33B FSM specifically states that they can only be pulled via a diagnostic scanner. No mention of grounding the OBD-II connector at all.

If you clearly saw that you need a diagnostic machine to check, as you said above, then why are you asking for a method that doesn't exist?

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Simply because I don't know that, just that someone stated it.

Just because it isn't in the manual, doesn't mean it doesn't exist!
It appears that either pin 7 or 9 is the magic one. Hmm.

VQP0WER

Go ahead and ground those pins and let us know how it turns out....

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

*sighs*THANKS VQPOWER.Im sick of the Max right about now

I just dumped 3500 dollars into it to get the throttle body replaced, ECU, IACV, New Mirror/Painted, New Tires, and wheel hub/bearing

Im sick of it......im not putting another 2 grand into it..........

G35 here i come

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Are you speaking from experience? Or....what?

Has anyone compared the wiring differences (if any) between the 5 and 5.5 gens ABS systems?

I'm just wondering if the only diffferences is in the FSM, with people following the original "ground pin 8" erronious information...so they just decided to take the self diagnosis out all together.

MintVQ35

iTrader: (1)

Figured I'd dig this up instead of creating a new thread...

I just replaced the right rear ABS sensor on my 2002 and the ABS light is still on, based on Scottwax's solution just tightening the bolt turned the light off. When I went to replace the sensor the bolt was so corroded that the head broke clean off, the new sensor took quite a bit of effort to even seat all the way so I figured not having the bolt would be fine as it doesn't seem like it will go anywhere...will this really not turn the light off?

Maxxed2DMaxx

Hey VQPwr: I definitely got the ABS light to blink some codes in my 03 Max by grounding the #9 pin (top right on wider side of OBDII connect) to the #5 pin (count right 2 left on lower row starting directly under #9)

Now i have no idea what to do with the codes cuz they're not on the OBDII list I have....

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

there is a self diagnostic procedure in the 2000 & 2001 fsm that is not in the 2002 & 2003 fsm. It is the "ground pin 9" procedure that you did. if you get the BR section of the 2001 manual, the procedure on grounding pin 9 starts on page 49 and a list of the "blink codes" is on page 63.

download fsm:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

Shift_Max

iTrader: (18)

That is actually correct and that is why I like Uprev.

kingrukus

iTrader: (41)

I definitely need to try this ground pin 9 procedure asap.

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

I tried this pin#9 method and I could definately tell that codes were being thrown but the blinks were so faint as though the light was dimming not blinking.I couldnt read them...oh well.

HotshotVQ35

iTrader: (5)

my abs light is on, anyone got a pic of where the sensor is on the hub, or wherever its located?

MintVQ35

iTrader: (1)

The rear sensors are to be found on the rear door side of the axle with 1 bolt holding it in place, if you remove the rotor you'll see the reluctor that the sensor magnet picks up it's signal from. The fronts are located in the cv joint.

Maxxed2DMaxx

Thanks for the post DennisMik with the heads-up on the 2000-01 fsm w the ABS diagnostic codes.

Maxxed2DMaxx

Just a heads up to anyone pulling out an ABS sensor to inspect and clean, where corrosion is an issue (salted roads), if the retaining bolt head snaps don't try prying out the sensor without a good soaking in penetrating oil (I like Castle Thrust) and working it free; it's plastic and will snap. Once its soaked for a bit try light taps to break it free and it pulls straight out.

jglaw

I had to replace my ABS sensor last winter. Got an OEM part from Advance Auto only to find out the connector wasn't right!!! What a pain, anyways ended up getting the part from the dealer and my TCS SLIP ABS lights all went off!
My local dealer checked the code without charging me and cut me a good deal on the ABS sensor so it worked out alright.

dozu

so I pulled the code - it's 35 - rear left sensor open circuit.... that means the sensor is dead, right?

so I tried to loosen the bolt and I gave it a good soak of WD-40 and it still snapped (

now what - time to bring it to the shop?

thanks.

btw - mine is 5th gen and the 'grounding method' does work to pull the code.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, the 5th gen ABS codes are readable with nothing more than a paper clip, the discussion was on the 5.5 not having that capability.

An open circuit code means just that, the computer is not receiving any input from that sensor. This could mean a sensor failure, or a circuit failure (as it says right in the code description).

Follow the diagnostic procedure starting at BR-62.

Personally I would start off with making sure everything was plugged in and scoping the sensor, if that checked out then verifying circuit integrity from the LR up to the ABS control unit.

SteveB123

iTrader: (2)

Bust out the sensor from the outside (after pulling the rotor) and push the new one in. Friction fit will do the job.....any car near salt will snap that bolt.
My rear right has been held in by friction for three years now, no issue.