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Old 01-17-2009, 02:27 PM   #1
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Service Engine Soon Light

Hey guys the other sday the service engine soon light came on so i had to think real hard about taking it to the stealer ship. Well to Sat 1/17 I took it to my local dealer to get it checked out. Well after an hour of waiting they diagnosed the problem to be the catalytic convertor.

I have 96754 miles on the car and the service guy told me sometimes they last to 200k miles and sometimes they go as fastas 60k mikes. Well then he hit me with the price 1200.00, I said what the hell. Then he said you may want to check around. He tried to get me a goodwill repair but corporate nissan denied it. Now i feel violated after all the money i spent buying this car and going to the dealer for service. So make sure to check the light out if it comes on.. Oh by the way the stealership reset the light and told me it may come back on soon. Any ideas chime in im listening.

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Old 01-17-2009, 03:54 PM   #2
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i thought emissions related stuff was warrantied to 120000 miles?
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Old 01-17-2009, 04:14 PM   #3
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Your in floridda and dont have emisssions. But the y pipe that deletes the cats and atleast gain some horsepower for $250 or less.
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Old 01-17-2009, 04:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon05 View Post
Hey guys the other sday the service engine soon light came on so i had to think real hard about taking it to the stealer ship. Well to Sat 1/17 I took it to my local dealer to get it checked out. Well after an hour of waiting they diagnosed the problem to be the catalytic convertor.

I have 96754 miles on the car and the service guy told me sometimes they last to 200k miles and sometimes they go as fastas 60k mikes. Well then he hit me with the price 1200.00, I said what the hell. Then he said you may want to check around. He tried to get me a goodwill repair but corporate nissan denied it. Now i feel violated after all the money i spent buying this car and going to the dealer for service. So make sure to check the light out if it comes on.. Oh by the way the stealership reset the light and told me it may come back on soon. Any ideas chime in im listening.

Talon05
Cat --- and 1200 bucks?
I didnt know they were that expensive
at 32 K miles, one of mine crapped out but it was under warranty

1200? ****
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Old 01-17-2009, 05:24 PM   #5
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You might check on some people parting out their cars after accidents. You can usually get a pretty good price from people on here. I have heard about a bunch of 1 car wrecks on here due to ice on the road.
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Old 01-17-2009, 06:11 PM   #6
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yeah they're pricey. some people steal them

that's an awesome idea above. If you do not have emissions inspection, this is the perfect reason to mod a ypipe.
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Old 01-17-2009, 06:56 PM   #7
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emissons warranty is cover 8years/80k. which cat are we talking about? if its one of the pre-cats than getting a new aftermarket y-pipe won't help.
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Old 01-18-2009, 12:16 AM   #8
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I had the same problem with my 05 max. I picked up my max from the dealer after having the timing belt tensioners replaced for the squeaking noise, about 8 hours later I get the SES light. Took it to the dealer next day and the cat needed to be replaced. Luckily for me, I was still barely within my 36,000 mile warranty.
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Old 01-18-2009, 01:23 AM   #9
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go to your local muffler repair shop and get an aftermarket cat they are so much more efficient and won't break your pocket. They will cut and weld it for you pretty cheap.
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Old 01-18-2009, 02:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynameispee View Post
emissons warranty is cover 8years/80k. which cat are we talking about? if its one of the pre-cats than getting a new aftermarket y-pipe won't help.
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Originally Posted by po8pimp View Post
go to your local muffler repair shop and get an aftermarket cat they are so much more efficient and won't break your pocket. They will cut and weld it for you pretty cheap.
Yes exactly! The ECM doesn't care about the post cat located in the Y pipe, it only monitors the precats that bolt to the exhaust manifolds. So aftermarket Y pipe or having a universal OBDII cat cut and welded in won't help anything.

Can you tell us what the code was? Was it P0420, P0430 or a different code? There is an issue with the VQ35s in Maximas, Altimas and Quests where the bank 1 catalytic converter has a heat sheild that is spot welded on in three places and these spot welds tend to break thus making a rattle/buzzing sound when your accelerating near 2500 rpm. Also sometimes thesr spot welds break off in a way where it creates a small hole in the catalytic converter and allows outside air to enter the cat and thus fooling the rear oxygen sensor into an improper reading and telling your ECM the cat is bad when in fact the cat is still good, it just has a hole in it.

Let us know what code it really is because there is a couple things you can do.

1. Replace the catalytic converter assembly thats bad at your cost since your 8/80k emissions warranty is over orrr...

2. You can take it to a muffler shop and have the person weld closed that small hole the broken spot weld left behind. Then you can have him reattatch the heatsheild.
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Old 01-18-2009, 05:24 AM   #11
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Yes exactly! The ECM doesn't care about the post cat located in the Y pipe, it only monitors the precats that bolt to the exhaust manifolds. So aftermarket Y pipe or having a universal OBDII cat cut and welded in won't help anything.

Can you tell us what the code was? Was it P0420, P0430 or a different code? There is an issue with the VQ35s in Maximas, Altimas and Quests where the bank 1 catalytic converter has a heat sheild that is spot welded on in three places and these spot welds tend to break thus making a rattle/buzzing sound when your accelerating near 2500 rpm. Also sometimes thesr spot welds break off in a way where it creates a small hole in the catalytic converter and allows outside air to enter the cat and thus fooling the rear oxygen sensor into an improper reading and telling your ECM the cat is bad when in fact the cat is still good, it just has a hole in it.

Let us know what code it really is because there is a couple things you can do.

1. Replace the catalytic converter assembly thats bad at your cost since your 8/80k emissions warranty is over orrr...

2. You can take it to a muffler shop and have the person weld closed that small hole the broken spot weld left behind. Then you can have him reattatch the heatsheild.
I like this guy, no homo lol. Can you hang out in the 6th gen forums more often pleaseee?!?! You are a huge help with everything ive seen you reply to so far.
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:04 AM   #12
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Cattman headers with the Y-pipe cat and o2 relocation bungs will solve your issue.

Cattman you want to chime in?

Kamski
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Old 01-18-2009, 02:32 PM   #13
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Thanks for the quick response from everyone on here. Someone asked for the code which was------ Code # P0240 for BANK 1 CATALYST SYSTEM. Yeaj florida suspend emissions a few years ago and I'm think of getting it check out first by a local muffler shop and see what my other choices are. Mine lasted to 96k what in the hell would make the CAT go out a 36k.

Once again thanks for the advice this Board and 6TH GEN group are awesome
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talon05 View Post
Thanks for the quick response from everyone on here. Someone asked for the code which was------ Code # P0240 for BANK 1 CATALYST SYSTEM. Yeaj florida suspend emissions a few years ago and I'm think of getting it check out first by a local muffler shop and see what my other choices are. Mine lasted to 96k what in the hell would make the CAT go out a 36k.

Once again thanks for the advice this Board and 6TH GEN group are awesome
You may wanna double check that code, im not gettin any info for P0240 however P0420 is for bank 1 catalytic converter efficiency. Possible causes for this code can include intake or exhaust leaks on that bank or the cat itself could be dead or exhausted.

But honestly I think its that spot weld thats broken off, does your repair order state this or are they just saying the cat is bad? Can you scan the repair order you got from the dealer and post it?

Here's a pic of the suspect cat and heatsheild im talking about under TSB NTB05-013.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:54 PM   #15
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Don't seem quite right to me.
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Old 01-18-2009, 04:30 PM   #16
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Hey Turbizzy thanks for the information and the picture, I will head to the muffler shop soon as possible and have them do an overall check. The stealership will not see my 1200.00 bucks no time soon or in the future.
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Old 01-24-2009, 03:40 AM   #17
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Check for a hole in the heat shield area and did not see any holes. I have driven about 150 miles since the dealership checked it out last weekend and the light has not come back on. So I'm will have a local shop check it out soon just to be safe. One of my buddies told me to go to racingline and get the mod to replace the stock CATS.
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Old 01-24-2009, 10:06 AM   #18
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Not sure what that mod is exactly, you have a link or info on it?

When you checked the heatsheild, did you stick a screwdriver between the cat and heatsheild and carefully pry on it to check to see if the sheild is still attatched to the welds? Do it carefully cuz you don't wanna actually break off the weld if it is still attatched. All you wanna do is see if the welds are good, theres 3.

Otherwise, just check for intake leaks and if all is well then you really might just need a cat. I've seen those go bad pretty often. It might show up sooner and sooner as the cat dies out.
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Old 01-24-2009, 04:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by po8pimp View Post
go to your local muffler repair shop and get an aftermarket cat they are so much more efficient and won't break your pocket. They will cut and weld it for you pretty cheap.
not always the answer. with the precats on our cars, there is a huge space issue. they have special flanges to attach the rest of the exhaust and cant be moved forward or backward because it will effect how they are lit during the closed loop stage of you engine fuel trim. with the post cats you might be able to weld one in, but ti will look like *** and there will probably still be a space issue.
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Last edited by Shoey1; 01-24-2009 at 04:07 PM..
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:09 AM   #20
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I took my 2004 maxima to the dealer and they said catalytic convertor, cam & crank position sensors all need to be replaced. $2300 later my maxima is ridding fine again. if I didn't like this car so much I would have put it up for sale already but what else am I gonna get for less than $10,000 that's this tight?
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:09 AM
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