athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

So it finally happened to me. I was driving on the freeway and felt that thud and then it was stuck in 5th gear. I coasted to a stop and restarted and the problem went away. Got the code P0744. I had read it could bethe camshaft position sensor; I changed the front one and the problem went away for a week and is now more frequent as the transmission heats up. This bites. I maintain my car with transmission fluid services regularly, did the Transgo shift kit, and recently transmission cooler an this os what I end up with. The car has 136000 miles on it. It had 88000 miles when I bought it though. It wasn't that well maintained initially, but being a 2005 I thought the issues with transmission would not plague it at the time. What should I do? The Level 10 rebuild is way pricey at $3300 with sending in a core. I don't want to max out my credit card with $2000 left on it, but I can sell some shares of stock worth $1000 to help cover costs. I'm just a resident with medschool loans in forbearance while I train right now. I'm so caught off guard that I'm scrambling for how to manage this. A remanufactured transmission from Nissan is $2500 to $3000 but those haven't proven to be reliable as the problems still arise again. The torque converter is most likely gone on this one. Should I try getting a low mileage 2006 auto transmission. Heck, should I even switch to manual and how much would that cost? To say I'm pissed right now is an understatement. Forgive any errors I wrote, I was writing this from my phone.

JasonOksa

No matter which way you go the repairs will cost money. I would have a shop diagnose the problem properly, even if the torque converter is shot, it shouldn't be anywhere near the prices you listed to replace it. Unless the whole trans is totally shot, why replace the whole thing? You can get a torque converter for about 200.00 plus install costs.

Nightscape

I feel you man. I just had the transgo shift kit installed last week. I brought it home, and was amazed at how well the transmission was shifting with no more jerks and bangs. Took the car onto the freeway that evening and as soon as I started cruising in 5th gear, I heard a thud and the SES light came on with the transmission going into limp mode in 5th gear.

Someone on the board had the same issue and when he pulled the ABS fuse from the fusebox by the passenger headlight, the 5th gear locking problem went away, so I tried that as well, and it does work but I'm pretty sure that it's not a actual "fix".

Took the car back to the shop and got the code P0744. It's still in the shop and I'm waiting to hear back from them. I'm so tired of this car right now. I only have 65,000 miles on my car too.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Update:
The first tech here in Metairie I took it to ran a diagnostic on it which showed a bad presssure solenoid and a bad signal from the TCM, (transmission control module). He said he didn't get a bad signal from the torque converter. Possible causes for the code according to ALLDATA TSB indicates 4 possible causes: TCM, Pressure solenoid, another solenoid, which I forget the specifics of, and the torque converter. He said he didn't know enough about transmission to adequately asses what's going on, so I took it Cottman Transmission. They noted the transmission may not need to be replaced yet. They're going run a full diagnostic on it for free which may take half a day but will let me know tomorrow what the deal is. Ironically, the car didn't act up today. I'm hoping it's just the TCM and/or the solenoid that needs to be replaced and not a whole transmission.

Nightscape: I asked the first guy about the ABS fuse thing, but he couldn't make heads or tails of it.

The sad thing about this is the way by which Nissan is handling it. I was calling my friends at Mech Tech for pointers and they noted that they've been replacing a lot of transmissions in the 2004 to 2006 Maximas. What's worse is the crappy warranty on re-manufactured Nissan transmissions. Nissan only gives a 1 year/12000 mile warranty on this transmission, but a transmission for a 5th gen maxima is 3 years/36000 miles. She told me 3 years/100K miles but I think she meant 36000 as that's more reasonable.

Nightscape

I bit the bullet and bought a brand new valve body for $800 today. Getting it installed tomorrow free of labor charge. The shop charged $300 originally for the shift kit and is doing this out of courtesy. I'm probably not going to keep this car long enough to go through another valve body (knock on wood). The shop owner who is working on my car knew about the valve body express, valve body pros remanufactured valve bodies and was strongly against them.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

So I just got my car back from the Cottman Transmission. They couldn't find anything wrong with it, and the code didn't even come up. I need to add that I changed the fusable link holder between the original mechanic's place that diagnosed the code and the transmission place due to me inadvertently touching the negative terminal with a spanner when I was changing out the camshaft position sensor a week ago in hopes of resolving this issue. The interior lights were all out and I had to use shift lock to get the car in drive as I was leaving the first mechanic's place (This burnt fuse in the fusable holder link has happpened to me before; that's why I didn't sweat it :-P). Despite all that, the car was running fine that day. The transmission guy said that the battery reset may also have reset the P0744 code as he couldn't pick it up on the scanner. The car worked fine for him as well and he had it for a whole day.

I talked to him more about the problems with our transmission. Ironically, there was a Volvo with a similar P0740 code that came in this morning that had our transmission. I asked him about the ABS fuse fix. Here's where it gets interesting. He notes that taking out the ABS fuse disengages the lockup. This lockup is meant to keep the car in a particular gear as to save gas. The only downside to removing the ABS fuse is that you don't save as much gas, but the car runs fine with no damage to the transmission or the engine. He noted that a while back, cars would have a model available with lockup versus one without lockup. It likens to a overdrive feature in a sense. He said if my transmission needed to be rebuilt, he could work with me and replace the necessary parts and offer a limited warranty. He noted a full rebuild, costing around $2500, by him would be covered by a 3 year/36000 mile warranty. Heck, that beats the dealership's 1 year/12000 mile warranty. He noted since I already have an updated valve body, that wouldn't need to be replaced if the situation arose for a rebuild. I pray the symptoms don't come back; but if they do, I'll definitely remove the ABS fuse and roll like that until either the ABS fuse fix no longer stops the symptoms or I have the funds to take care of it once and for all.

po8pimp

I don't know guys. I think it might be the solenoids causing the error you are getting. That is what is reworked with the shift kit. If the shop doing them were in a hurry and didn't take the care needed to complete the install correctly, then that could be what's causing this. I had my kit installed over 6 months ago and drive this car fast and hard with smooth shifting. Not saying all people are going to get the same results, but they should be very similar if done correctly.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Mine has been the same way up till a week ago. I had the shift kit done about 5 months ago. It took them 2.5 days to do it since they took the valve body to a transmission guy to do themselves. The transmission guy I talked to today who looked at my car said the problem isn't coming from the valve body but from somewhere else in the transmission. She's behaving right now; I pray she stays that way. If other poeple are having problems with this code, I'd recommend taking the ABS fuse out like "used parts" suggested.

po8pimp

I know the dealership sux, but have you gone into the service department and asked about the code you are getting? Check and see if there are any TSBs on this. if the problem went away with the new CSP sensor installed, then came back only as the car heats up, then that sensor could be bad again. Sounds crazy, but heat damages a lot of things, and all it needs to do is transfer to that piece of plastic/magnet, and crack it enough for the oil to get inside and damage it. Even some of the 5th gens were having problems with the sensors. just food for thought.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Didn't try the dealership as they would charge a $90 diagnostic fee. I felt the two shops I visited were enough. Plus, with 136,000 miles, the dealership wouldn't do anything for me. The ALLDATA paperwork from the first mechanic basically said everything that needs to be said about the P0744 code and the transmission guy said that ALLDATA is the most up to date and precise resource on diagnostic codes and troubleshooting. I initially changed the CPS because of a previous thread recommending it; but now that I review everything, the P0744 code didn't even correspond directly to the CPS. I talked to three mechanics in total about this issue. My favorite ones at Mech Tech said that code usually means the transmission is done, the first mechanic I took it to for diagnosis didn't know too much of what it mean. Finally, the transmission guy was the most knowledgeable in giving hope and insight into what the code actually means.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Well... it's back again. This time I took out the ABS fuse and the car is running fine. However, I definitely wouldn't recommend this fix. First, the speedometer doesn't work at all and stays at 0 mph. Second, the ABS, SLP, TCS OFF, CEL, and Brake lights all come on. Third, the gas gauge fluctuates with every turn and steadies itself at the correct mark when driving straight. It's going back to the transmission place now that the code has resurfaced. I'll drop it off tomorrow, and take it from there.

hmr1979

Is there a poll on this particular forum with how many 6th gens with bad transmissions?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Check out the link: http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...-problems.html

Well... the shop called. It's going to cost me about $3500 for the rebuild which includes a 3 year/36000 mile warranty on the whole transmission, including my updated valve body with the transgo shift kit. After, calling around, it's the best option to go with. He said he was also using a Colaen (sp) steel clutch pack kit versus the OEM one. He noted it's a racing style application. The owner of the shop used to drag race cars at the track and deals a lot with transmission meant for racing applications. The whole thing sucks as I'm having to take out a loan to pay for this. This car has put me in a financial bind, but I don't have an alternative at this point and have to go through with this repair. I definitely won't be autocrossing this car ever again unless I have money to blow; only did it once.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Update: Got my car back today after about a week. The parts supplier kept sending the shop the wrong gears for my car. Anyway, I as I was pulling out, I noticed the same issue with the wire harness off the positive battery terminal arose again, but some of the lights were working. None of the fuses on the fusible link weren't burnt. I made sure the wire harness snapped into place and all was well. There are two connectors to the fusible link; I noticed the one closet to the firewall looked burnt. Would I have to replace the whole harness at some point? Sigh.
If that wasn't enough, the damn transmission acted up again after I picked it up from the shop and dropped $3200 on a complete rebuild! Same issue as last time. I was stuck in 5th. I took the car to autozone and this time not only did I get a P0744 code but a P0745 code for bad solenoid. This P0745 code wasn't there initially when I had it scanned at autozone 2 weeks ago. She's going back to the shop tomorrow. I've about had it with this car.

@bighobbz

wow! i will be glad when some one finds the real fix to this problem! i have a 04 max and it drives crazy maybe 2wice a week. reading all the post im getting nervous!!

MaxJ04

iTrader: (4)

well when i had the tranny stuck in 5th gear, all my friend did was replaced the cam sensor in both banks. and make sure the wires are not corrode . and if your transmission ECU isn't updated . please take it to nissan to have them install a updated version on it. and then try it again.

all my problems were solved. because of these small issues.

hope this helps.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

But one would get a code pointing to the CAM sensors am I correct? My code kept saying it was the torque converter and a bad solenoid. I STILL haven't got my car back yet The transmission guy said the valvebody is the culprit and is awaiting one with the Sonnax kit installed from VBX valve bodies. Apparently, the Cottman Transmission techs are point ting the Sonnax kit as the solution to the valve body problem and not the Transgo shift kit. I'm supposed to get her back on Wednesday.

gawoods

my 04 with 70k miles just experienced this intermittent problem. The engine cranked over more times than usual, once it did start the transmission was locked in 5th gear. SES light was on. Removed the negative battery cable and left it overnight. Next day car started normally and transmission was back to normal. Drove the vehicle approximately 5 miles, all was fine. Drove the car later same day, all was fine. Before the engine could cool off, restarted with same issue, hard to start, transmission locked back in 5th gear.

If it were cam sensors that would explain the hard start issue but why would the transmission be locked in 5th gear?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

You're lucky. It's most likely your camshaft position sensor or sensors that may need to be replaced. Head over to autozone to get the code read. Autozone usually sells the sensors for about $45 to $60 depending on if it's the front or rear bank sensor versus the $100 plus at the dealership. It's very easy to change out as well.

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

Damn what a pain... I hope you get it all sorted out!

po8pimp

the CSP sensors let the transmission know what RPMs the car is at. If the sensor goes bad the car goes directly into limp mode which is 5th gear.

gawoods

I took it in to the dealership who confirmed the bad camshaft sensors. They replaced them and all is running well. $374.99 later...

traveler1

Got the same code today, P0744. Rough shifting, Limp Mode...THIS SUCKS MAN!

Initially had TCS, ABS, SLIP and BRAKE lights on with tranny popping roughly from 1-2-3 gears speeding up and or slowing down through same gears. Replaced ABS module (due to Action Nissan of Nashville saying this was what they diagnosed it as). Only the BRAKE light went off. The other lights were still on, though. A week later, I just happened to think of checking all fuses. The fuse box the dash had all good fuses. The fuse box under the hood had blurred printing, so I couldn't tell what fuses were for what. A later trip to Action revealed the ABS fuses under the hood were blown? There's a single block fuse with two 30 amp and one 50 amp fuses all in one Tetris shaped block. I jerked the hood on one of their cars up and replaced mine with theirs. For all of 5 minutes, all lights 4 error lights went off but only stayed off for under a mile. Then all came back on but BRAKE. I said the hell with it and replaced my original ABS module back on the car and returned the recently purchased one back the what ****-poor business I got it from (Don't do business with basiccarparts.com).

At this point, I take it in to a real mechanic/shop (Non-Nissan Stealership). This shop replaced left rear ABS sensor and same wheel hub (told was warped and that caused malfunction of ABS sensor) and had some engine and tranny codes reset. Ran pretty smooth for about a week or almost a week. Cost $765.89. No Limp-Mode initially, after replacing ABS sensor and resetting engine/tranny codes. And no error lights now, but it's now going into Limp-Mode about twice a week or more and the CEL comes on 4-5 times a week, usually triggering said Limp-Mode.

Reading these threads brings hope one moment, reading of the same problems but from another Maxima owner who, at first, sounds as if they've remedied the situation, but in the end, the same issues and or codes, if not more? So it sounds as if there's multiple causes and issues with no mainline remedy.

I hate that I went from being a thru and thru HONDA-man (1996 Hinda Civic - Most Reliable Car I've Ever Owned) to thinking I was about to become a thru and thru Nissan-man, only to get shafted (no CPS pun meant).

To NISSAN Motor Corp - May you burn in hell for not putting enough $ into more research and development of your transmissions prior to screwing us consumers out of hundreds to thousands of dollars.

So its either (from reading thread after thread):

1-CPS's Cam Position Sensors (2)
2-Flushing of tranny fluids
3-Torque Converter Circuit Intermittent
4-Valve Body
5-Gremlins
6-Aliens
7-2012

I mean, damn Nissan. At one point I was hyped to have purchased my 06 Maxima. Now I see I should have been sniped instead.

So I am to the point of taking a gallon of gas and a match to this son-of-a-*****in car and getting a real thrill out of watching the damn thing POP one last time!!!!!!!

Now, what did I do with that match....

po8pimp

dude it has to be the CSP sensor. Camshaft position sensor. Go get both, replace one at a time, and see which one if not both are bad. Return the one you don't need. Make sure it is clean when you return it. they won't take it otherwise. Just tell them you bought it for the repair shop just in case. I had this happen a couple years ago and have been golden since.

traveler1

Well, I will be damned. After not knowing which way is up or down with these tranny issues, and following the good advice of some other Maxamillians out there.....No code of death, no tranny poppin (sounds like a rap song), shifting smooth as BUTTER!

I will go ahead and be negative and ask for how long though?

+++++UPDATE++++++
POS (fill in the blanks) is doing it again. Flushed fluids today as well and still trying to shift hard. Haven't updated ECU software though? Dunno if it'll help? Stealership says Autozone or Advance sensors aren't dependable (imagine that, tryin to make a sell) and I may still need genuine Nissan parts and he also says that the ECU shouldn't need updating and that it won't affect the shifting!?!

po8pimp

what is that good advice you speak of. Some other person might have the same issue. Your solution could be different than mine.

traveler1

Well, I did speak way too soon! The thing shifts harder now and hits limp-mode more often with 2 brand new CPS modules?

po8pimp

As bad as this sounds, I recommend limping into a dealer and having them diagnose it. Wait for them to tell you what they think it is, then throw what you had done at them. Most will try and swindle money from you if you don't know what you are doing, however you know more than just the average Joe. This way if what they are saying is incorrect then have them diagnose it again. Also make sure they show you proof to back up their claim. If they say Valve body, then make sure they have codes, results of pressure tests, etc. The more info you get the better you can get a second opinion or help. They have the tools and are the experts so to say.

Icons04SilverMax

Did you go to a nissan dealership to get your ecu updated when you changed the sensors out? If not that might be the problem now.

traveler1

So just go in and ask to have my ECU updated? I'm sure they will try to snowball a sell.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

One has to have the ECU updated when you change out the CPS sensors? Where did you read this from? I'm curious because I changed out the front most sensor when I had my problem. I had no codes though. It went away for a week and came back.
My car has been at the transmission shop for the past 8 weeks. Intermittently, they would tell me it's fixed. I would go at most 2 days before the same problem happens again. They've done a rebuild, changed the valve body that had the Transgo kit installed to a VBX valve body, changed the torque converter, even disconnected the transmission cooler I had installed 2 weeks prior to the symptoms starting citing that the cooler was cooling the transmission too much and that the valve body didn't have an air pocket to breathe while at operating temps (this was this past Friday). They disconnected the cooler and the problem still persists. The transmission shop which is Cottman has been on the phone with the dealership, VBX, and Cottman's national tech and still don't have a solution for it. The P0744 code still keeps rearing it's ugly head. There are three causes: bad pressure solenoid, torque converter, transmission control module/ computer. The computer is the only thing that hasn't been done yet, and they'll change it tomorrow. They gave me a rental 2 weeks ago. I told them I couldn't borrow my sister's car indefinitely prior to them paying for a rental car. I'm so sick of this car right now. I thinking they should have installeda re-manufactured transmission from Nissan and installed the VBX valve body that includes updates and the Sonnax parts on it instead of rebuilding it. I'm praying it gets fixed, but I don't know what to do next if it's not resolved. I've spent $3700 already on this rebuild. All the work they've been putting into it with replacing the computer and tearing it down is on them. The only reason I went with them is because of the 3 year/36000 mile warranty they offered.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I can't stop laughing at that "tranny poppin" term.

KevMaster

Unheard of relearning ECU after cam sensor replacement but then again who knows what fixes the real problems. I am leaning more and more towards getting "supposedly fixed" newer version of valve body from nissan instead of rebuild valve body if I ever require surgery on my transmission. I heard lots of pros and cons about rebuild valve body performance in long run.

MIKERNM1990

how u know about Code? by nissan dealership tell you about it?

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

I took it to autozone initially and they discovered it on their OBDII sensor for free which just stated a P0744 torque converter code on the receipt. After that, I took it to a mechanic who is a family friend, and he printed me the ALLDATA technical service bulletin that explained in detail what the code meant and the 3 possible causes. It's the same one that the transmission experts are using since it's the most comprehensive source out there.

athlon omega

iTrader: (4)

Got her back today after 9 weeks. Thank God! I was beginning to fear that she would never get fixed. They ended up replacing the transmission computer behind the glove box, and that seems to have done the trick. I'm driving her, cautiously hoping that problem doesn't come back.

KevMaster

Good to see your ride is back all fixed. Please keep us updated on how things are looking after an expensive repairs.

hmr1979

I have been tryin to follow the transmission saga, but I didn't really know it was also with the 5AT.
Does anyone know roughly if it's been a major issue with 2006s?
I know the 2004 has been pretty bad, but not sure whats the rough stats on 2006s.

Yes, I am askin cause i got a 2006 and I am approaching 100k

po8pimp

if you haven't replaced your transmission or haven't experienced the signs we have all stated yet, then you should be fine.

KevMaster

I have 2004 SE fully loaded with 5AT shiftronic. Never missed any fluid change interval. With that I also have transmission hard shifts issue. It was completely normal shifts until I reached 110k milestone few months ago. Do not want to scare you off though.