Picodroid

To start, this is on my 2004 Maxima SL 4SPD auto, has about 113K on it. I've owned it since it had around 83K .

About 8 months after I bought it, it developed a strange, and very intermittent issue. I was driving down the highway and notice my speedometer was pegged at 0mph, and my ABS and BRAKE lights were on. I pulled over, turned it off and on, and it was fine.

The issue reappeared infrequently, but each time it did, it'd be harder to get to go away. Shifting into neutral then back into gear fixed it for a bit, then stopped. I thought it might have been temperature or weather (rain) related, but it definitely isn't. Then this issue started happening when initially starting the car. Restarting it right away, or turning the ignition on but not cranking it would work, but that became hit-or-miss.

Now, the issue seems to come and go frequently. It'll happen daily for 2-3 days in a row, stop for a few more, then come back. Sometimes it'll go back to normal as soon as I pull away, or at 70mph down the highway.

Last week it happened every day, every time I started it for the entire week. Same going into this week, but over the weekend it came out of it. With this, I've noticed a decline in the display's readout of the MPG. Normally it's 20-22mpg mixed, but since this past week it dropped... 17mpg.. 15... 14... 9... and just now on my way home from work it said 7.4mpg! The total distance calculates at about 26mpg (8.3 gallons, 219 total miles estimated by the car), which is normal. So that's a new, weird part of the problem.

To explain the issue further, this is what happens usually:
When starting the car, the dash will light up. It won't show the oil light right away as it usually does, after about 1-2 seconds it flashes the oil light on then off in about 1/2 a second.
After this, the ABS and BRAKE light come on.
I hear the radiator fan go on.
Multiple items won't work: Windshield wipers, AC, speedometer, cruise control.

I could be wrong, but it seems those items are all speed related. The cruise control and speedometer are obvious. I'm assuming the wipers and AC (blows, but no cold air, as if the compressor isn't running) both rely on road speed, or engine speed, to run properly.

Could this be something with a speed sensor? Or is it some weird electrical glitch I'm missing? Please let me know if you've got ANY idea what this could be, as it's driving me nuts. I'll be DDing a different car and lending the Maxima to my parents soon and would like to avoid this problem continuing for them.

Thanks guys!

Costee

Scan the car. Could be your camshaft sensor.

Picodroid

I haven't had a check engine light for some time, but it did show up with this recent problem. So I pulled out my OBD bluetooth device and Torque Pro on my smartphone (loooove that, so much). Got the following:

P0500 - Powertrain
Vehicle Speed Sensor

P0460 - Powertrain
Fuel Level Sensor Circuit

U1001 - Netowork
(didn't have description)

P1574 - Power Train
(multiple descriptions, none for Nissan)

I just got back inside from running the scan, so I haven't looked into the codes in depth. Unless those last 2 have anything to do with the current problems, the first two explain a lot. I'll be investigating P0500 to see if it's some type of primary sensor or an abs/wheel speed sensor that is the problem. And the P0460 error seems to explain the odd mpg rating I'm getting, but I think it might be confused due to the erratic speed sensor issue.

trs

I'm having several of the same codes as you. I've tried several sensors but haven't gotten the speedometer to work. Have you had any luck? What did you do?
Tom

trs

Well I'm having the same CEL codes (P0500, P1754 and P0460) as Picodroid on my 2004. I've tried a replacement instrument cluster, changing both speed sensors on the transmission, changing both camshaft position sensors, the crankshaft position sensor (under the engine), and cleaned all wheel speed sensors. All this with no result. My main symptoms besides the CEL light is no speedometer movement and the occasional engine stall when coasting to a stop. Does anyone have any other suggestions for me?
Thanks,
TRS

Picodroid

Sent you a reply to your PM, TRS. If you can, post details here so others can see it in the future. I'm sure we're not alone with this problem!

Latest update:
Same symptoms, but now CONSTANT while the vehicle is running:
* speedo doesn't work
* ABS, Brake, CEL all on
* AC doesn't blow cold
* wipers don't work
* radiator fan always on
* headlights always on
* probably others I can't remember.

Not sure if TRS had this issue, but since he mentioned replacing the cluster I thought I'd mention my speedo gauge light flickers frequently.

Anyway, basically the issue is non-stop now and I need to repair this to pass emissions.

Like TRS has, I'm going to try replacing the VSS / Vehicle Speed Sensor. From what I've seen, this is the primary one mounted on the transmission. That is the information I found while researching the CEL codes.

I think I found the correct one sensor on the engine, can someone confirm this for me please?





Is it the one the finger is pointed at? If so... the wire seemed fine and the part itself looked snug and free of oil/fluid/grime buildup. I guess it could be an internal defect?

If someone could confirm that's the right part I should look into replaced, please do. If it's not, please share where it is located. I would greatly appreciate it.

I am concerned this may not be the correct fix, as I see TRS has not had success with far more things repaired. I have a BT OBD2 which allows me to reset the codes, I've heard this is required to have the ECU recheck sensor feedback properly. Have you done this along the way, TRS?

I'm no automotive genius, but my experience in electronics makes me wonder if it could be an issue with the ECU itself? Is there a possible way to reflash it with the stock software, wipe cache... something?

trs

Pico,
Yes that is your transmission speed sensor and it appears you have a 4 speed? My SE 5 speed has blue sensors (2) while yours is/are black. I hope this solves your problem. From what I've read the sensors do go bad and since they are magnetic pick-up style, there won't be any visible indications. That sensor could cause your CEL, ABS, Brake light, and speedometer issue, but I don't see how it would impact your headlights, AC, radiator fan, wipers etc. I'm thinking you have other issues. Let me know if this solves your problems! I like my Max but these CEL codes, lights and speedometer issues are driving me to drink. I've been working on this for weeks. Finally I decided to take it to the experts (Nissan stealership) who scanned it for $110 told me I needed a transmission for only $4,000! Clearly not the CEL code issues we're having.
TRS

Picodroid

Thanks for the feedback, trs. Yes, it is a 4 speed.

So are you in agreement with Nissan that it is the transmission in your case? I'm surprised they'd say it was with those engine codes being thrown out and would definitely want explanation as to why they think it's the transmission, if I were you.

I will say that I thought I had transmission issues, as it would clunk while shifting, especially 1-2 and 2-3, and at WOT while going highway speeds acted as if it was having a hard time staying in a gear (constant shifting). Now, the shifts are pretty firm still, but replacing the engine mounts and transmission mount strengthened it up and softened the shifts. Just throwing this info out there, as it could possibly hint at the true cause of our similar issues.

I posted this issue over at reddit.com and got some feedback which I'm going to look into today. Basically check 2 fuses called out and inspect the ABS unit. To quote:

Full link to post:
http://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvi...nsor_location/

As for the AC, headlights, wipers... I know the wipers have a system built in to speed up/slow down with your vehicle speed. I'm assuming the others (AC, fan, headlights) must route through the same speed checks, probably to protect the vehicle (AC compressor, engine temperature, etc). Like the fan, it may think the vehicle is constantly stationary so it just engages so it doesn't overheat while it thinks the vehicle is standing still. Could be wrong, but I have a feeling it's all linked. All the symptons would only occur at the same time when the ABS/brake light came on.

trs

Pico,
No I don't think my car needs a transmission. It is acting up a bit with flare ups and occasional gear clunks, but I think it's related to the P1574/P0500 and ABS issues. I think the Nissan dealership didn't want to spend a minute looking into the cause of my codes and just picked out something very expensive as a diagnosis. They couldn't explain the link between the codes being thrown and the transmission and just gave me the "you just have to have worked on these as long as we have" BS. I did the Rostra solenoids which helps shifting, but it still isn't perfect. I probably need to dial them in. Thanks for the steer on the engine mounts. I'll check those out this weekend when I'm looking for that ground under the ABS you mentioned. I replaced the ABS unit before and didn't notice a ground besides the big multi-wire connector, and it's a bear to work around the ABS due to the tight spacing. Let me know if you make any progress and I will do the same. It sounds like we are having very similar issues!
TRS

Picodroid

I recommend checking this out, trs. I think it explains our problem. In this link I provide, the answering Nissan Tech posts a link to a Technical Service Bulletin straight from Nissan to their techs. In it, it describes how the wheel speed sensors (primarily the right rear) end up malfunctioning due to debris buildup. The fix is to clean the sensor and grind a notch near the wheel speed sensor (ABS sensor at the wheel) so it gives the debris somewhere to go.

If this is the issue, the tech bulletin pretty much states (and as others have had happen to them), since the wheel speed sensor is malfunctioning it in turn can cause the ABS actuator to go a bit haywire. Some experience ABS light on only when braking and even have the ABS kick in under normal breaking. This damages the ABS actuator/module (single unit) and requires replacing it.

The two transmission sensors gauge input and output shaft speed between clutches and the speed info is only used for transmissions/shifting performance. Those won't cause the speedo to not work. I'm assuming the CEL OBD codes (P0500) related to the VSS on the trans is a false positive due to the ABS module getting bad codes (and with that, no speed info) from the ABS wheel speed sensor and possibly the ABS module/actuator unit having completely failed.

Here is the link to the conversation and in it you can find the link to the tech service bulletin: http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/7xg...0-trouble.html

edit:
Also, I have not gotten the ABS codes read. My dad knows a guy who runs a shop and has said he can help check the codes. I'm anticipating getting back the code in the TSB, something like C1110 or C1114. If so, I'll at least know where to start to fix the issue. Will report back with more info when I have it.

trs

Picodroid,
Thanks for the tip. I performed that notch grind and cleaning TSB a couple months back trying to fix my 1574/0500 CEL codes. I found some build-up and replaced the rear sensors, but this didn't fix my issues. Good luck if you're going to do it. It was pretty easy.
Thank, TRS

Picodroid

Did you ever have the ABS codes read to see if you were getting the one for the wheel sensor and/or the ABS unit?

From what I heard, the process should be:
1. Get codes to confirm, if confirmed then continue...
2. Clean up sensor, replace if needed. Grind notch to allow debris to have an exit.
3. Wipe all codes
4. Drive for a while, see if codes return. If so, replace ABS actuator/ABS module.
5. Wipe codes, test drive, test for codes again.

Basically wondering if you also replaced the ABS unit, but also if you wiped codes from OBD and ABS immediately after replacing the parts. They might just be old codes stuck in your units, if not. You seem to have a good idea of what you're doing, but I figured I'd ask.

I've yet to get the codes pulled, taking longer than expected to have the guy available with the code reader.

trs

Yes I did wipe codes between performing the TSB, replacing the sensors, and replacing the ABS unit. The 1574/0500 codes came back right away every time. My code reader has ABS code capability but I get an error about not being able to communicate with the car's ABS system. I'm thinking the used ABS pump could be bad, or I have a ground or short issue like you posted. This does seem to be a tough problem to track down!

Picodroid

No real update, just a small bit of info.

My dad had his friend try to grab any ABS codes. It returned the U1001 communication issue, I'm assuming this is what you have as well trs. This is likely due to a bad ground from what he thinks, but I could see it being a bad unit as well. Will update as I get info.

trs

Thanks for the tip Picodroid. A couple months ago I pulled a U1000 code (vs your U1001). The U1000 is also a CAM communication code. I found a suggestion on this site to address this by pulling the panel just to the right of the gas pedal on the center console by your feet. Under this panel is a metal bracket with 4 screws. The suggestion was to grind the paint off this bracket and the mounting area top and bottom and apply dielectric grease. The concept is that this bracket serves as a ground between the dash and the body. I did it and didn't get the U code back. However, it didn't seem to do anything for the 1574 and 0500 codes. You may want to try it.
On another note, I looked at my engine mounts and found they are bad so a new set is ordered. Thanks for the suggestion on that. Hopefully that will fix some of the rough shifting.

trs

Pico,
I made some progress on my issues this weekend and wanted to give you a suggestion. I set about replacing engine mounts as you recommended. The passenger side was easy, the front is in progress and the rear looks pretty rough. I found a blown fuse in the box just behind the passenger headlight. It was a 10A labelled "ABS cont." This fixed my speedo, brake light, and so far my check engine light codes haven't come back (though not much driving). You may check that fuse and see if it looks suspect. Mine didn't look broken, but did not have any continuity. Let me know how you make out.
Tom

Picodroid

Wow, I really wish I came back to this thread and saw this post! I stopped using the Maxima for a while and my brother will be using it now, so I want to help him get this issue finally fixed.

It'd be great if we could get the wipers working, but of course he'd like the speedo and even better to have AC again. And it'll need emissions soon enough, so of course that CEL needs to go.

Will report back if that fixes it for me as well. Glad you got your car taken care of!

edit:
Oh, and I took apart my console to check the "AC amplifier" board. It's the one TRS mentioned, behind the temp controls in the dash. Mine was super clean, barely any dust, certainly no coins. So I don't think that's causing my issues, despite the symptoms matching. I put a piece of tape over the coin-sized slot to avoid future coins from falling in. What a **** design, Nissan.

djsmith

I'm resurrecting an old thread in hopes of salvaging my investment in a 2004 maxima that I bought from my Uncle three years ago. He bought it pre-owned and drove it for 15 years.

It needed a lot of work to try for a new inspection sticker this year. ABS wheel sensors and ABS actuator pump are all replaced. Two of three catalytic converters replaced along with two of four O2 sensors.

I made a TERRIBLE mistake at the end of August - when one or both brand new O2 sensors were not getting their signals through to ECM I paid Pep Boys to put it on a lift to check the connections. Since I was a month overdue for inspection they decided to do a brute force action to bring those sensors online. In the process they killed my speedo and odometer and no one can figure out exactly HOW. They replaced a battery cable and cut and taped some wire harnesses. I get all three check engine codes listed here.

Since cutting harness wires caused the problem is a potential fix just replacing one or more harnesses in the system? Everything else has been checked in the past 12 weeks by mechanics and the Nissan dealer who won't replace the harness because they can't source the part "new" from their parts department.

Any insight would be much appreciated. I can try to take a photo of the blue-taped visible portion of the harness if it would help.

Thanks!

Dan