How long does it take to bleed your clutch mater and slave
#1
How long does it take to bleed your clutch mater and slave
I just changed my clutch master cylinder and its taking forever to get some good pressure on my clutch, however the rod on the slaves does move, but the clutch pedal pressure is low. Ive been bleeding this for the past two days. I just bought a slave cylinder today to change it and see if it makes a difference. Does it normally take this long?
#4
#6
its the same exact thing except the clutch works backwards..
since you removed the master cylinder you need to bleed the entire system which is a b;tch and a half.. it takes for ever...
just have a patient person helping you..
since you removed the master cylinder you need to bleed the entire system which is a b;tch and a half.. it takes for ever...
just have a patient person helping you..
#7
I bench bled mine, didn't have an issue bleeding at all after that.
Then again, I am using the full SS clutch line. Makes everything so much easier.
#8
Thats funny, we got it to work but there is still air in the line, because the clutch comes and goes. It really takes patience, and i lack alot of that
#9
would it be possible if i could see pics of the line, i was thinking of removing all of the stock line and run a straight one to the slave from the master
#10
ok im still having problems, im still bleeding, it goes in gear enough so i can drive, but i have to practically fight with the car to get it in gear. now im wondering if i put i longer rod in the slave if that will make ite better, because when we use a bar and push the fork, it engages in gear easy, but im open for suggestions.
#14
#16
What's to take pics of?
It's just a SS braided line that goes directly from master to slave, bypassing all of the stock crap they call a clutch line. Eliminates the upper bleeder, too.
I swapped my car so between all of the crap that goes on there stock, or a single $40 line, it was an easy choice.
It's just a SS braided line that goes directly from master to slave, bypassing all of the stock crap they call a clutch line. Eliminates the upper bleeder, too.
I swapped my car so between all of the crap that goes on there stock, or a single $40 line, it was an easy choice.
#17
ok, i still havent figures it out, i changed the rod to a slightly longer one from a toyota celica, it worked for 5 min while the engine was running, then as soon as i was ready to drive the car, it began giving trouble. I havent bled the system as yet since i have put in the longer rod, so i am gonna try that sometime this week. also the old rod that came out the slave has visible worn damage at the edges, so im now wondering if the fork is bent. awwwwwwww I blame all of this on the pressure plate :-(
#19
ok, i still havent figures it out, i changed the rod to a slightly longer one from a toyota celica, it worked for 5 min while the engine was running, then as soon as i was ready to drive the car, it began giving trouble. I havent bled the system as yet since i have put in the longer rod, so i am gonna try that sometime this week. also the old rod that came out the slave has visible worn damage at the edges, so im now wondering if the fork is bent. awwwwwwww I blame all of this on the pressure plate :-(
stock PP?
Bleed the system and see how the car reacts then. Why did you upgrade to a longer rod? Longer rod will lead towards less travel for the TOB... might not be able to engage/disengage well. Could result is drasticly shortened lifespan of your clutch.
#20
suuuure... blame the pressure plate
stock PP?
Bleed the system and see how the car reacts then. Why did you upgrade to a longer rod? Longer rod will lead towards less travel for the TOB... might not be able to engage/disengage well. Could result is drasticly shortened lifespan of your clutch.
stock PP?
Bleed the system and see how the car reacts then. Why did you upgrade to a longer rod? Longer rod will lead towards less travel for the TOB... might not be able to engage/disengage well. Could result is drasticly shortened lifespan of your clutch.
I have a ACT extreme PP in the car, any suggestiions plz
#21
Yea. your using a longer rod so its cant travel enough via peddle to engage/disengage. Get another 4th gen or correct length rod, or just get a whole new slave and install it. Bleed the system and see the results. If problems still occur you can start looking bigger like it being the PP or something inside the transmission
#22
Yea. your using a longer rod so its cant travel enough via peddle to engage/disengage. Get another 4th gen or correct length rod, or just get a whole new slave and install it. Bleed the system and see the results. If problems still occur you can start looking bigger like it being the PP or something inside the transmission
#24
#26
#28
Do you guys have any cooling problems with the fluid?
#31
I spent a couple hours trying to bleed that idiotic stock setup alone when i swapped to a manual, then I decided to bypass the 2nd bleeder and run right to the slave. I used the stock rubber hoses and ran a hard line to the rubber hose, then it bled out in 5 minutes alone...
#32
I spent a couple hours trying to bleed that idiotic stock setup alone when i swapped to a manual, then I decided to bypass the 2nd bleeder and run right to the slave. I used the stock rubber hoses and ran a hard line to the rubber hose, then it bled out in 5 minutes alone...
#34
Sorry for the late reply, my problem is now solved, my fork was bent, but wasnt noticeable but it finnally gave out and broke, so we had to drop the transmission and change it, i also wanted to change my PP, but when we were ready to put it in the auto store gave me the wrong f---ing one, so i had to put back in my old one, which i believe contributed to the bent fork. anyway, car drive perfect now (knock on wood)
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