1993-VG30E-GXE

Does anyone know how (is there a tool) to make those hose barb ends of the metal pipe - the bulge in the pipe, exactly like the fuel pipes that go under the car and end up down below hear the steering rack boot at the bottom of the firewall, then our hose connects from that to our fuel filter.

The fuel filter also has the bulges top and bottom.

When I replace the fuel pipes underneath the car, some guy told me I don't even need those bulges, I can just clamp a hose to the pipe. I'm concerned though it could slip off from vibration and movement.

infinitiblast

iTrader: (2)

Sure is sold in most hardware stores. I'm at a lost for the name of it right now, but I remember it was less then 10 bucks.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

To make the barbs or just to make the hump in the end of the pipe? Very big difference.

I'm sure you could find a bead roller for 5/16" tube somewhere.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Actually, maybe you guys or anyone that did it, can tell me what I need to do on the ends. I thought the word barb meant that end of the pipe with the bulge in it. There's 3 fuel pipes in total. I beleive they are all 5/16".

Do I make 1 hump on each end of the pipes...and the end at the fuel tank, does it basically connect to a piece of fuel injector hose that go straight into the fuel pump? This is the photo in the FSM but haven't seen it in real life yet. I'll need 6 fuel injector hose clamps, 6 humps total at ends of each pipe (3) right?

If anyone has the measurements please post them.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

They should indeed all be 5/16" or 8mm (close enough to be interchangeable), IIRC every Nissan I've ever touched has those size fuel lines.

Well a barb is this (obviously ignore the threads on the right):


The name is pretty intuitive.

Fuel lines generally have a bead rolled into the end, such as this:


Which is what you're referring to.

Looking at FAST (with an image from Courtesy), it does look like there are two fuel hoses coupling the lines to the nipples on the pump assembly:


If you can't find anything to roll a bead in the pipe with, you could always rent/buy a flaring kit for brake lines; when you flare the end, it produces a pretty well defined 'hump' that would serve an identical purpose. Not sure how the ID is affected by that at the flaring site, though.

If you've got some free time and like to construct things, you could try something like this: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=58790

I know there's an extremely simple answer that I'm overlooking, I tend to do that sometimes.

1993-VG30E-GXE

Thanks buds this helps alot.

Fuel Spill Question:

After I've released fuel pressure, if there's still fuel in the tank, when I go to remove the send & return pipes from the hoses connecting to the Fuel Gauge Sender Unit, will fuel start spewing out like a syphoning action, and not stop until I plug it with something or the tank ultimately empties?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

a flaring tool?

Curt Deiner

iTrader: (1)

The flaring tool, for brake lines, I've used will produce a "funnel" shape on the tube end. Must be a tool for the "bulge".

1993-VG30E-GXE

Went to the store and bought the SAE 45 flare tool kit and the line bender tool. There is a tool to do the bulge but it's over 900 bucks.

The bulge i'm talking about is not the bulge in Pmors photo. It's the 2 bulges found on your fuel filter, as well as end of injector rail send & receive pipe. The purpose of the bulge I beleive is to position the fuel injector clamp next to it, to give an even better seal or to possibly prevent the hose from slipping off the pipe (once the clamp is tightened down it may be difficult to pull hose off)if it were to move.

I don't think i'm going to follow the advice of one of my automotive buddy, he claims just cut the pipe and use the injector clamp and forget about the bulge. Guy at the store recommended use your OEM bulges and cut the pipe back from that maybe a foot, then use unions or something to join the new pipe. I personally don't like this idea because your adding un-necessary joints...but we'll see.

Here's the example of the tool. And that is one damn expensive tool just to make a bulge, out of my budget. ...............Pmor, the makeshift way is impossible with pipe this tiny inner diameter - sure with a huge pipe like the one in your photo, but imagine trying to do that within a fuel pipe.

www.vansantent.com/Catalog/2009/Bead_Form.pdf

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You mean like the second picture in my post

Fuel lines have the 'bead' around the end of the pipe to keep the hose from slipping off.

FWIW you could always just take some needle nose pliers and bend the edge of the tube out a little (smooth out any burrs), that would work the same.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I was thinking bubble flare.

jakeru

I think a double flare tool can make a bubble flare if you stop before the last step of the double flaring process.

jakeru

Ahh... I just learned that a "push connect flare tool" is made just for this job.


Costs a lot more than a double (/bubble) flare tool though. Ones I found with a quick google search were running ~$200.

http://www.inlinetube.com/Straight%20Length/tools.htm

nitrous360

That hydraulic tool is nice but damn is it expensive!

1993-VG30E-GXE

Too bad it's so much. It would be a total waste of money for me, once I do these brake and fuel lines I wouldn't have much of a use for it.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

you need this tool (sorry for the large pic).
basically the center hex will push the metal ball out...you then turn the large hex and it will put a bead/groove on the tube.

it's about 30-40 bucks for each size...assuming they have the size 5/16.

http://www.holley.com/types/Earl%E2%...0EZ-Beader.asp






the bead form tool (bead form I) i have and it's great for ICs and etc...but it's too big for your 5/16 tubing.

the 45 flare is ok..but it's a ISO flare...so it bends out and pretty much folds over. that's what's on the stock brake lines. you must use a quality tool and tubing here or else it'll leak.

37 flare is used for AN plumbing.

any questions?

1993-VG30E-GXE

Good find, I'll buy it. One more question:

Fuel Spill Question:

After I've released fuel pressure, if there's still fuel in the tank, when I go to remove the send & return pipes from the hoses connecting to the Fuel Gauge Sender Unit, will fuel start spewing out like a syphoning action, and not stop until the tank ultimately empties?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

pull up rear seat..pull gas pump cover...pinch lines?