Infinity Basslink II Self Powered Sub Installation
08-24-2009, 10:51 PM
#1
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Infinity Basslink II Self Powered Sub Installation
OK, everyone. I promised it was coming and here it is. Photos of my solution to beefing up the bottom end of the BOSE, along with my method of install, and some of the things I learned along the way. Hopefully this will help some of you create a simple solution for your MAX without having to put a big box and amp in your trunk. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or comments.
This thread assumes the following:
1) Any installs you do are at you own risk
2) You know the correct way to remove body panels/trunk trim, etc.
3) You have a basic understanding of automotive electrical components, and the proper way to hook them up.
2) You know the correct way to remove body panels/trunk trim, etc.
3) You have a basic understanding of automotive electrical components, and the proper way to hook them up.
Let the Show begin!
OK, to me, especially when it comes to any amplifier installation, getting through the firewall almost always ends up being the most difficult part of the install. Older cars had removable plugs, etc. Today, it can be much more difficult to breach the firewall.
Well, in the MAX, I thought this might be a problem, until I found the main electrical harness for the entire car running through the firewall. ( It's located in the drivers fot well, up to the far left, beind the dash - If you remove the interior fuse panel cover, you can see where all the wiring leads) Once I located that, I was able to take an electrical snake (an old coat hanger will work too) and poke a hole through the rubber boot surrounding the main wiring. (Just take care while you are doing this not to damage any of the wires that are there) The boot is thick, so it will take some effort to poke through it, but it can be done.
Once this was complete, I located the end of the snake in the engine compartment. From here, I made the connections to the battery;
And mounted the fusable link to the decrotive plastic covering the front drivers side strut tower.
Then the Main Power Wire Simply gets run down the drivers side Electrical channel (Under the kick plate moulding, which simply pops off) all the way to the trunk.
For my install, all the other connections were made in the trunk, and were relatively simple. First, I removed all of the cosmetic trim in my trunk, so I could run wiring behind it. Next, I connected the remote turn on lead for my powered sub, to the remote turn on lead of the BOSE AMP. (This is the BLUE wire in this photo, NOT the GREEN one, which is a connection to the speakers - More on that in a moment.) The remote power lead is wrapped in a factory electrical tape that you will have to remove carefully! Refer to the service manual for location and color of factory remote turn on lead)
Last edited by LVleo78; 08-24-2009 at 11:52 PM.
08-24-2009, 11:32 PM
#2
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Infinity Basslink II Self Powered Sub Installation Continued...
The next step was to make the Speaker Level Connections to my Line Lever Converter.
(And YES, that is a picture of the PATHETIC little magnet on one of the 6x9's) You make a splice at both the LEFT and RIGHT rear 6x9's to connect to the Line Level Converter.
(And YES, that is a picture of the PATHETIC little magnet on one of the 6x9's) You make a splice at both the LEFT and RIGHT rear 6x9's to connect to the Line Level Converter.
There are a few things to note here about this process!
1) Check the service manual for the speaker polarity, as I don't recall which color wire is (+) and which is (-).
2) I used a SCHOSHE line level converter (pictured below)
The inputs go in the TOP, and outputs come out the BOTTOM (refer to manufacturer instructions) BUT FOR INSTALL IN THE '09 MAX YOU MUST SET THE SWITCH ON THE LEFT SIDE TO "COMMON GROUND" Otherwise your stock speakers will sound blown with any heavy bass output. I also PUT ELECTRICAL TAPE AROUND THE ENTIRE CONVERTER SO THE SWITCH COULDN'T GET FLIPED TO A DIFFERENT POSITION BY ACCIDENT!
As far as connections to the BOSE system go, thats it. You of course have to ground the amp/sub somewhere on the chassis, but just pick a good location (check for wiring/fuel/brake lines, etc before drilling) and use a self tapping bolt into the chassis.
The rest of the process is cosmetic. Replace all of the trunk lining components, Bring your wires to the final mounting spots, connect all the wires to the amp/sub per the instructions for your component, then mount your sub/amp. (Again, before drilling, check for wiring/fuel/brake lines, etc).
The finished install in my trunk looks like this!
As you can see the self powered sub has a very small footprint, so there is no loss of useful trunk space.
I hope this Thread helps anyone considering doing this themselves, and gives them an idea of where to start. The processes used here would be the same to connect an AMPLIFIER for an unpowered sub as well (Seperate AMP & BOX, instead of an ALL IN ONE solution like I have)
Feel free to reply or PM me with any questions, and if I can help I will!!!
Last edited by LVleo78; 08-24-2009 at 11:45 PM.
08-25-2009, 05:49 AM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Illinois
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Very nice write-up, but I'm a little confused. What's the point of putting any speaker in an enclosed trunk? Sure, this will make the trunk lid vibrate, but you can't get any clean bass waves into the cabin, can you?
08-25-2009, 07:31 AM
#6
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Well one thing is people can hear it as well... And you can hear some bass from the inside of the car so it does make everything sound better..
Awsome write up btw... I was thinking about getting this since it was small and removable also the whole amp being built into it was also a huge plus imo.
Awsome write up btw... I was thinking about getting this since it was small and removable also the whole amp being built into it was also a huge plus imo.
08-25-2009, 11:39 AM
#7
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So a trunk enclosure (Be it an all in one solution, like the Basslink, or a seperate sub box and amplifier) is the best way to add bottom end to any system... stock or otherwise.
From a sound standpoint, the Basslink has made a HUGE difference in the way my stock BOSE system sounds... it now has plenty of bass, and offsets the "bright" front sound stage nicely.
Also, on a side note... the Basslink is about clean powerful bass - NOT trunk rattling, Window/building/earth shaking. For that you need a bandpass box, or something similar. The Basslink (or any all in one solution) adds amazing bottom end, without the neighbor annoying nusances!
Last edited by LVleo78; 08-25-2009 at 11:41 AM.
08-25-2009, 11:45 AM
#9
Actually, The trunk is the best place to put a subwoofer for several reasons. One, The Large, open space acts as a sonic chamber for the low frequencies, and amplifies the Low frequencies even further. The other thing to remember about Bass frequencies (Anything under 300 Hz) is that they are omni directional, meaning they originate from all around the source. Think about youy home theatre setup (if you have one). You can place the subwoofer anywhere in the room, and the bass sounds the same.
So a trunk enclosure (Be it an all in one solution, like the Basslink, or a seperate sub box and amplifier) is the best way to add bottom end to any system... stock or otherwise.
From a sound standpoint, the Basslink has made a HUGE difference in the way my stock BOSE system sounds... it now has plenty of bass, and offsets the "bright" front sound stage nicely.
Also, on a side note... the Basslink is about clean powerful bass - NOT trunk rattling, Window/building/earth shaking. For that you need a bandpass box, or something similar. The Basslink (or any all in one solution) adds amazing bottom end, without the neighbor annoying nusances!
So a trunk enclosure (Be it an all in one solution, like the Basslink, or a seperate sub box and amplifier) is the best way to add bottom end to any system... stock or otherwise.
From a sound standpoint, the Basslink has made a HUGE difference in the way my stock BOSE system sounds... it now has plenty of bass, and offsets the "bright" front sound stage nicely.
Also, on a side note... the Basslink is about clean powerful bass - NOT trunk rattling, Window/building/earth shaking. For that you need a bandpass box, or something similar. The Basslink (or any all in one solution) adds amazing bottom end, without the neighbor annoying nusances!
FYI, Rockford also has an all in one solution now, but its $600 and freq response isn't quite as good.
08-25-2009, 11:47 AM
#11
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nicely done. very professional looking. i had a self-amped infinity subwoofer in my old car. it wasnt very powerful but it did provide very good sound/bass to my stereo. how much did you pay for the sub? i would pay you to come and install it on mine. lol
08-25-2009, 11:53 AM
#12
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HAHA! That would be expensive, since I live in Nevada, but I appreciate the Compliment!
08-25-2009, 12:01 PM
#14
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That sounds like it's exactly what I'm looking for, I've outgrown the days of getting 1500W+ amps and 15" Titanium subs... What I want now is clean, tight bass. I read some reviews, and like any product, some people complained about it. They said that it kept breaking and some other people said it wasn't durable and blew out after a year. Have you had any problems with this?
FYI, Rockford also has an all in one solution now, but its $600 and freq response isn't quite as good.
FYI, Rockford also has an all in one solution now, but its $600 and freq response isn't quite as good.
Good luck, and feel free to ask any questions...
Last edited by LVleo78; 08-25-2009 at 12:03 PM.
06-13-2010, 05:51 PM
#15
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Well this is my first post on this form. I have done a fair amount of research to up grade the maxima sub. I wasn't looking to go crazy, but to put some bottom end and try to clean up the muddy base in the Maxima.
I was surprised to see that my 2010 Maxima (bought in Mar 2010) has different rear subs than the one's shown in this thread. In fact the magnet is about 4 inches in diameter and measures 1.6 ohms on a basic MM.
I did use a cheap 4 channel sony amp that I got for $47 at thier outlet store (XM-GTX6040). I realize this is a low end amp but wanted to try upgrading power to the factory subs, plus I added a 8 inch sub in the trunk to fill in the base. I used the a Tangband sub from PE in a .6 cu ft enclosure.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-854
I had to struggle to get the right polarity on the high level inputs as the color coding on the bose sub amp out wires do not match the online manual that I found on this site. I think there has been some minor refresh to the sub portion of the sound system in 2010.
Lastly, The rear subs bottomed out pretty quicky with the added power in the Sony amp. I ended up putting the LP filter on at 80 hz so this now really adds upper bass only. This does not add too much bass, BUT cleans up the sound of the rear subs.
All in all, this is a significant improvement for my audio. I would post some pics, but am not allowed to until I pass the 15 post rule as a newbe.
Thanks to all who post on this web site, it greatly assisted in the planning of this project.
I was surprised to see that my 2010 Maxima (bought in Mar 2010) has different rear subs than the one's shown in this thread. In fact the magnet is about 4 inches in diameter and measures 1.6 ohms on a basic MM.
I did use a cheap 4 channel sony amp that I got for $47 at thier outlet store (XM-GTX6040). I realize this is a low end amp but wanted to try upgrading power to the factory subs, plus I added a 8 inch sub in the trunk to fill in the base. I used the a Tangband sub from PE in a .6 cu ft enclosure.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-854
I had to struggle to get the right polarity on the high level inputs as the color coding on the bose sub amp out wires do not match the online manual that I found on this site. I think there has been some minor refresh to the sub portion of the sound system in 2010.
Lastly, The rear subs bottomed out pretty quicky with the added power in the Sony amp. I ended up putting the LP filter on at 80 hz so this now really adds upper bass only. This does not add too much bass, BUT cleans up the sound of the rear subs.
All in all, this is a significant improvement for my audio. I would post some pics, but am not allowed to until I pass the 15 post rule as a newbe.
Thanks to all who post on this web site, it greatly assisted in the planning of this project.
08-17-2010, 11:22 AM
#18
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Location: The Chicago burbs!
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Maybe the OP will chime in and let us know what his issues with the Infinity one were.
08-18-2010, 08:49 AM
#20
Great write up, clean install!
I have the original basslink, and I had a cheap Canal St. (NY chinatown) hi-lo/line level converter on my stock Bose setup and it was ok..once you raised the volume the line level converter couldn't do its job and eventually distorted the sound.
I've since gotten an aftermarket double din head unit and wired it through the pre amp and the bass sounds much, much cleaner. You're definitely right, very clean bass, not to shake anything, but noticeable.
I can only imagine how good it would have sounded had I used a quality line level converter like the scosche one.
Great write up!
Btw i'm going to try moving my sub around, in the area you placed yours. I now have it zip tied (yes zip tied lol) sitting right behind the back seat in the dead center facing the front of the car (makes it easy to adjust gain, just fold the seat down, since don't have a remote
).. Do you think it would sound better positioned in the middle of the car, as its veryy close to the rear seat now?
08-26-2010, 07:39 AM
#21
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wow this is nice, i am thinking about adding some lower end as well; although it may be overkill but I was thinking about 2 Kicker 12" L7z powered by Kicker zx1500.1, and a MTX ReQ Signal Processor, any tips?
09-09-2010, 02:51 PM
#23
Observations
Most of my questions/observation might be repeativie. so my apologies in advance.
I am planning to install JL amp and JL sub in a sealed box in my 2004 Max (SE). I already powered the amp, connected the remote wiring, grounding. No issues.
While connecting the signal/audio input to the amp ( i have mono amp powering only one 10 inch JL sub ) - I found too many options/discussions. Here's the gist :
1. As this amp can accept left/right speaker level input - I can simply connect it with the rear deck BOse subs.
Which bascially means - I feeding the output from the Bose Amp to this new JL amp.
My point is - from the HU the signal is again converted/amplified/filtered by the BOSE AMP which will be fed to JL Aduio whcih will again process the signal - SO I assume there wil be some signal loss ( may not be noticable ).
2. The signal strength from the BOSE amp will difnitel be less as it drives only 2 ohm BOSE 8 inch subs. So I assume -I will have to incrase the gain to quite a high in my JL AMP.
3. I was thinking to use the signal from BOSE AMp to fed into the Pre-Amp ( RCA ) input to my JL AMP. Not sure if that will cause any damages. I know Bazooka recommended this approach for Bose systems.I am not sure whats the crossover frequency for the BOSe AMPS - so I might get a good result as I am feeding my JL only low frequencies coming from BOSE amp - but that also depends how good the BOSE AMP is. I might also lose some frequencies which BOSE cuts off.
4. I do not think using a high-low converted to this signal is necessary and wud led to much information loss.
5.For a tru speaker level input I could use the input signal to the BOSE AMP or audio signals directly from the front/door speakers which should be good.
6.I could use high to low to the above connection - not a very good idea though.
7.I could simply use PAC connectors which will connect to the HU and provides RCA output.
So you see..so many options. Basically what I am looking for is how many of you have tried the above mentioned approaches and how did you like it. If someone tried different ooptions and actually tasted couple of these - that information will be useful
I am planning to install JL amp and JL sub in a sealed box in my 2004 Max (SE). I already powered the amp, connected the remote wiring, grounding. No issues.
While connecting the signal/audio input to the amp ( i have mono amp powering only one 10 inch JL sub ) - I found too many options/discussions. Here's the gist :
1. As this amp can accept left/right speaker level input - I can simply connect it with the rear deck BOse subs.
Which bascially means - I feeding the output from the Bose Amp to this new JL amp.
My point is - from the HU the signal is again converted/amplified/filtered by the BOSE AMP which will be fed to JL Aduio whcih will again process the signal - SO I assume there wil be some signal loss ( may not be noticable ).
2. The signal strength from the BOSE amp will difnitel be less as it drives only 2 ohm BOSE 8 inch subs. So I assume -I will have to incrase the gain to quite a high in my JL AMP.
3. I was thinking to use the signal from BOSE AMp to fed into the Pre-Amp ( RCA ) input to my JL AMP. Not sure if that will cause any damages. I know Bazooka recommended this approach for Bose systems.I am not sure whats the crossover frequency for the BOSe AMPS - so I might get a good result as I am feeding my JL only low frequencies coming from BOSE amp - but that also depends how good the BOSE AMP is. I might also lose some frequencies which BOSE cuts off.
4. I do not think using a high-low converted to this signal is necessary and wud led to much information loss.
5.For a tru speaker level input I could use the input signal to the BOSE AMP or audio signals directly from the front/door speakers which should be good.
6.I could use high to low to the above connection - not a very good idea though.
7.I could simply use PAC connectors which will connect to the HU and provides RCA output.
So you see..so many options. Basically what I am looking for is how many of you have tried the above mentioned approaches and how did you like it. If someone tried different ooptions and actually tasted couple of these - that information will be useful
09-20-2010, 01:39 AM
#26
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UPDATE: Replys to the Many Posts since my last visit!
First off guys, let me just say I apologize for not getting back in here sooner. Life has been Hectic and crazy, but hey, that’s Vegas!
Anyhow, I will try to touch on many of the new questions/thoughts since I last checked in, but if I miss any, please feel free to contact or PM me.
OK, so I see that lots of questions about the line level converter have been brought up. Basically, to sum it up, the converter takes any and all amplification, and removes it, giving you a "line level" output. It would be the same, as taking your home CD players RCA outputs and connecting them to the RCA inputs on an aftermarket amplifier in your car - the signal from the home CD player is UNamplified, and unaltered, until it gets to the amp. Basically the AMP sees the same signal, regardless of the head units volume setting. the AMP controls volume and output, not the CD player.
Well with the BOSE set up (or any other speaker level connection) the signal is already amplified (in this case by the BOSE amp) - meaning EVERYTHING the BOSE amp does, gets passed directly to the secondary amp if there is no line level converter. This includes frequency cut offs, distortion, etc, which all then get REAMPLIFIED in the secondary amp. NOT GOOD!!!
You ALWAYS want to feed you amps the cleanest, most unaltered signal you can give them. It's like eating candy VS fruits & veggies. Sure, candy is cheap and easy and tastes good, but you'll end up fat and bloated and sick. Fruits & veggies cost more, but you will end up strong and ripped and healthier for the long haul. (Personally, I'd rather have Adonis in my trunk, than Fat Albert - LOL)
Your line level converter simply takes the altered signal, and restores it - no amplification, no frequency cut offs, etc. I ALWAYS recommend them, and since this installation, there have been many improvements out there to remove any factory "sound shaping" from your system.
As for the Basslink II, it actually DOES have on board line level inputs - my experience with them, has been, that they don't work well. They are over sensitive, and when connected directly to a speaker level input, increased volume actually shuts the Basslink's internal amp down. I am sure this was part of the reason the Basslink II met it's maker, however once I found my way with the Line Level converter, i never looked back.
To the Poster who found one direct from infinity for $160 bucks or so, thats a screaming good deal. Just be aware that if it is a Basslink II, it is probably refurbished, since the unit was discontinued around 2007 (I think)
My Basslink II has served me well, and I am the first one to send crap back to the manufacturer if it doesn't perform. A few months back I got rear ended in my Max, and the impact sheared the bolts off the Basslink where I attached it to the chassis. It got tossed up against the backseat, wire connections and all, and just kept on thumpin’ right through my whiplash. In fact I didn't even know it came off until the body shop pointed it out.
I wish they had worked the kinks out of the Basslink II for some of the other buyers who experienced issues, but my experience overall has been great. Infinity is now owned by Harmon Kardon (if I am not mistaken) and the quality has never been better IMHO.
But remember what matters most - YOUR LISTENING EXPERIENCE & and the type of music you play. Let your ears guide you. Mess with placement in the trunk ‘til you get the sound you want. Turn dials and twist ***** ‘til your ears are content. I know my system is right, when a good song gives me chills at the crescendo.
Cheers... hope I got it all!
LVleo78
Anyhow, I will try to touch on many of the new questions/thoughts since I last checked in, but if I miss any, please feel free to contact or PM me.
OK, so I see that lots of questions about the line level converter have been brought up. Basically, to sum it up, the converter takes any and all amplification, and removes it, giving you a "line level" output. It would be the same, as taking your home CD players RCA outputs and connecting them to the RCA inputs on an aftermarket amplifier in your car - the signal from the home CD player is UNamplified, and unaltered, until it gets to the amp. Basically the AMP sees the same signal, regardless of the head units volume setting. the AMP controls volume and output, not the CD player.
Well with the BOSE set up (or any other speaker level connection) the signal is already amplified (in this case by the BOSE amp) - meaning EVERYTHING the BOSE amp does, gets passed directly to the secondary amp if there is no line level converter. This includes frequency cut offs, distortion, etc, which all then get REAMPLIFIED in the secondary amp. NOT GOOD!!!
You ALWAYS want to feed you amps the cleanest, most unaltered signal you can give them. It's like eating candy VS fruits & veggies. Sure, candy is cheap and easy and tastes good, but you'll end up fat and bloated and sick. Fruits & veggies cost more, but you will end up strong and ripped and healthier for the long haul. (Personally, I'd rather have Adonis in my trunk, than Fat Albert - LOL)
Your line level converter simply takes the altered signal, and restores it - no amplification, no frequency cut offs, etc. I ALWAYS recommend them, and since this installation, there have been many improvements out there to remove any factory "sound shaping" from your system.
As for the Basslink II, it actually DOES have on board line level inputs - my experience with them, has been, that they don't work well. They are over sensitive, and when connected directly to a speaker level input, increased volume actually shuts the Basslink's internal amp down. I am sure this was part of the reason the Basslink II met it's maker, however once I found my way with the Line Level converter, i never looked back.
To the Poster who found one direct from infinity for $160 bucks or so, thats a screaming good deal. Just be aware that if it is a Basslink II, it is probably refurbished, since the unit was discontinued around 2007 (I think)
My Basslink II has served me well, and I am the first one to send crap back to the manufacturer if it doesn't perform. A few months back I got rear ended in my Max, and the impact sheared the bolts off the Basslink where I attached it to the chassis. It got tossed up against the backseat, wire connections and all, and just kept on thumpin’ right through my whiplash. In fact I didn't even know it came off until the body shop pointed it out.
I wish they had worked the kinks out of the Basslink II for some of the other buyers who experienced issues, but my experience overall has been great. Infinity is now owned by Harmon Kardon (if I am not mistaken) and the quality has never been better IMHO.
But remember what matters most - YOUR LISTENING EXPERIENCE & and the type of music you play. Let your ears guide you. Mess with placement in the trunk ‘til you get the sound you want. Turn dials and twist ***** ‘til your ears are content. I know my system is right, when a good song gives me chills at the crescendo.
Cheers... hope I got it all!
LVleo78
09-20-2010, 01:43 AM
#27
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Good Price - But could be refurbished
Thats a great price, but it is likely a refirb. Nothing wrong with that, just be aware, especially since it originally sold for $400+ and has since been discontinued!
09-20-2010, 01:50 AM
#28
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Line level converter use
The LLC (Line Level Converter) is used to simply remove all the BS the factory system does to the original source. This includes amplification, Frequency limiting, etc. You always want to feed your amps the cleanest signal possible. Without removing all those changes, your new amp will simply make everything thing the old amp is doing twice as bad. Always avoid going directly from speaker level outputs to speaker level inputs. While it seems faster (and it is) all shortcuts come with a price, and in this case it's gonna be sound quality.
09-20-2010, 01:31 PM
#29
one question though..line level converter is used in the speaker level output..ie the output of the factory amp is fed into LLC. so the signal/frequency cut-off has already been done by the factory amp..how LLC will restore that info as its already lost...what i think it just removes the extra amplification (lowers the voltage ) which ur factory amp does..cleanest signal wud be directly from the HU -if u compare it with the LLC output from speaker level input..IMO
10-04-2010, 07:02 PM
#30
i plan on installing 2jl 12's and fosgate 500watt amp...this was in my old maxima before but i had an aftermarket head unit in it...
i know i hav to buy a loc...which one is a good one? scosche? or pac? and the wiring that you did was for a bose system and mine is non-bose...
the power(green and blue wire) would be the same for me...with a fuse in between...run the power wire all the way down the driver side to amp....find a ground in the trunk and sand away and attach ground
for the loc...do i still splice into both rear speakers??? then to loc then to rca to amp to speaker wire to subs
i also want to add in a capacitor...1/2 cap because i will not be doing any more audio after the subs and i'll be pushin 500 watts max...
also...wat about the remote turn on lead...wat should i tap into for that?
thank you for your help!!!
i know i hav to buy a loc...which one is a good one? scosche? or pac? and the wiring that you did was for a bose system and mine is non-bose...
the power(green and blue wire) would be the same for me...with a fuse in between...run the power wire all the way down the driver side to amp....find a ground in the trunk and sand away and attach ground
for the loc...do i still splice into both rear speakers??? then to loc then to rca to amp to speaker wire to subs
i also want to add in a capacitor...1/2 cap because i will not be doing any more audio after the subs and i'll be pushin 500 watts max...
also...wat about the remote turn on lead...wat should i tap into for that?
thank you for your help!!!
10-04-2010, 09:34 PM
#31
^ I've read several times that caps are useless because it just puts more strain on the electrical system. I have a 1,000 watt amp on my sub and it does fine with the stock electrical system. You could do the "big 3" and add a battery in the trunk if you wanna be on the safe side.
10-04-2010, 09:58 PM
#32
^ I've read several times that caps are useless because it just puts more strain on the electrical system. I have a 1,000 watt amp on my sub and it does fine with the stock electrical system. You could do the "big 3" and add a battery in the trunk if you wanna be on the safe side.
i think it depends on the situation more...i listen to a lot of music with a lot of bass....hitting like the whole time....hahaha....at full crank in my old car...maybe that's why i'm goin deaf really quick...but yea
adding a battery is too expensive...i'm getting the cap used from a friend for $10...it's legit and worth it
10-12-2010, 08:34 PM
#33
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5
Can anyone get a picture of where abouts it's coming out on the other side? (in the engine side)... I spent 2 hours poking through that boot, trying to see it on the other side, 2 ft screw driver, hanger, nada, can't ever see it.. and the power wire is all i have left.. my G37 was easier than this :-/
thanks
thanks
Well, in the MAX, I thought this might be a problem, until I found the main electrical harness for the entire car running through the firewall. ( It's located in the drivers fot well, up to the far left, beind the dash - If you remove the interior fuse panel cover, you can see where all the wiring leads) Once I located that, I was able to take an electrical snake (an old coat hanger will work too) and poke a hole through the rubber boot surrounding the main wiring. (Just take care while you are doing this not to damage any of the wires that are there) The boot is thick, so it will take some effort to poke through it, but it can be done.
10-13-2010, 02:36 AM
#34
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Posts: 52
Where the Poke through the boot leads
Hey Sorphin - sorry for the delayed reply - honestly, I am not sure where EXACTLY in the engine compartment the boot leads too, simply becaused i used an electrical snake (like 25 ft long) with just a small amount of yellow electrical tape on it so I could locate it. it always seems like you need to push alot of length through the firewall, but thats cus the snakes tends to coil back up once it's through. all i did was shove a bunch through, then moved it around till i head it hitting on something, and went searching with my flashlight. Know this isn't much help, but its all I can offer. I'll see if I can get a pic at somepoint for you...
Can anyone get a picture of where abouts it's coming out on the other side? (in the engine side)... I spent 2 hours poking through that boot, trying to see it on the other side, 2 ft screw driver, hanger, nada, can't ever see it.. and the power wire is all i have left.. my G37 was easier than this :-/
thanks
thanks
10-13-2010, 02:41 AM
#35
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 52
Line Level Converter
Yeah, I would tend to agree. I honestly cant remember if I tapped into the leads comeing off the HU & into the AMP, or if I tapped into the leads coming of the BOSE amp and into the "factory subs" I guess I should go back and re-read my own post 
LOL
I guess I should go back and re-read my own post LOLone question though..line level converter is used in the speaker level output..ie the output of the factory amp is fed into LLC. so the signal/frequency cut-off has already been done by the factory amp..how LLC will restore that info as its already lost...what i think it just removes the extra amplification (lowers the voltage ) which ur factory amp does..cleanest signal wud be directly from the HU -if u compare it with the LLC output from speaker level input..IMO
10-13-2010, 10:43 AM
#36
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 5
Ok, I finally found it.. it comes out nicely hidden behind the strut tower.. i had to move the airbox back out of the way so i could even get my hand back there to find it.. what a pain.. yeesh, the G was right on top.. ah well..
oh, btw.. I didn't do a line level converter, i just tapped into the inputs TO the bose amp for my basslink, same as i have in the previous Bose-ified cars. I can't get myself to use speaker level converted to line when line is already available...
oh, btw.. I didn't do a line level converter, i just tapped into the inputs TO the bose amp for my basslink, same as i have in the previous Bose-ified cars. I can't get myself to use speaker level converted to line when line is already available...
Hey Sorphin - sorry for the delayed reply - honestly, I am not sure where EXACTLY in the engine compartment the boot leads too, simply becaused i used an electrical snake (like 25 ft long) with just a small amount of yellow electrical tape on it so I could locate it. it always seems like you need to push alot of length through the firewall, but thats cus the snakes tends to coil back up once it's through. all i did was shove a bunch through, then moved it around till i head it hitting on something, and went searching with my flashlight. Know this isn't much help, but its all I can offer. I'll see if I can get a pic at somepoint for you...
Last edited by sorphin; 10-13-2010 at 10:47 AM.
10-14-2010, 03:55 PM
#37
ahhhh....i tried poking a hole in the grommet for like 45 mins but couldn't manage to freakin poke a hole through...
instead...i went around the grommet...
i'm thinkin i should redo this???...i should run the power wire through the grommet and not around it right...
did u guys use a screwdriver to poke a hole?...i tried using scissors but the grommet is freakin tough or thick?...or i'm weak
instead...i went around the grommet...
i'm thinkin i should redo this???...i should run the power wire through the grommet and not around it right...
did u guys use a screwdriver to poke a hole?...i tried using scissors but the grommet is freakin tough or thick?...or i'm weak
10-15-2010, 02:42 AM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 52
I would recommend trying to get it through the boot... it will help prevent water intrusion, exhaust gasses, etc. The boot is a ***** to get through though... just lots of force with something stiff with a pointed tip should get you through.... just takes some force....
10-15-2010, 01:35 PM
#40
Originally Posted by sorphin
oh, btw.. I didn't do a line level converter, i just tapped into the inputs TO the bose amp for my basslink, same as i have in the previous Bose-ified cars. I can't get myself to use speaker level converted to line when line is already available...
Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
