Kawowski

I've been having CVT problems (almost no acceleration from a stop) and just got my valve body changed out per NTB11-002. The acceleration problem seems to have been fixed, but I need some help on another issue.

1. What RPMs are you guys at when going 60, 70, and 80 mph? Mine seem to be higher than I remember prior to the valve body fix.

2. When cruising at a steady highway speed (flat road) my rpms float several hundred rpms up and down. For example, I'm driving at a constant speed of 70 mph and the rpms will float between 2000 and 2300. There is no load change on the engine/CVT (flat, steady road) so I would expect a constant rpm unless I were to go up/down a hill. It is not a harsh change in rpms... just slow and constantly floating around this range. Does this happen to anyone else?

I'm just trying to see if this floating is normal (I don't recall it ever happening before the valve body swap) and if my rpms are higher than normal at highway speeds.

Makc1kNYC

1. I stay at 1800 RPM at 60-70Mph 80 Mph at 2000RPM.

2. Nope, I never had that.

3. I only had that for a few days or so when my RPM's would float between 400 - 600RPM when I was parked. It stopped ever since and it never affected my car.

Note: Sometimes I get this Limp mode when I floor my car and it takes a while to accelerate like a grandmother driving lol. I have that very rarely!

Compusmurf

AC compressor kicking on and off maybe?

Kawowski

The "limp mode" you are talking about was exactly my problem. I'd be at an intersection and when the light turned green, I'd accelerate at about 2mph every 10 seconds... meanwhile, people behind me are honking like crazy! I suggest you take it to the dealer and reference the TSB I listed in my first post. The valve body swap has made a huge difference in not only eliminating the "limp mode" but overall acceleration responsiveness. I'm just trying to see if my RPMs are normal in comparison to others as I am at about 2100 RPMs at 70 mph and 2500 RPMs at 80 mph. Seems high doesn't it?


@Compusmurf - It is constantly floating around regardless of AC being on or off. Almost like the torque converter isn't locked.

CorollaULEV

The rpms you mention seem correct. I will verify later and post up.

The rpm fluctuation on the highway is norma. Not 200-300rpm though (I don't think). Are you CERTAIN it's really 200-300rpm. My 2010 has 48,000 miles and has done this exact thing since new. I always notice it cruising on highway 50 to 80mph....at a steady speed it's a constant fluctuation of about 50-100rpm every 2 seconds or so. It has nothing to do with A/C since it does this with it on and off. It may fluctuate 100rpm sometimes, but normally it fluctuates very slightly like 50rpm or so.

I believe the CVT has a feedback system. As in TCM commands line pressure to set rpm at XX and feedback control compares commanded rpm with actual rpm...blah blah blah. Maybe it takes time....or maybe just unplug battery for a few minutes and see if that does anything.

Late,
Trav

Late,
Trav

Kawowski

Thanks for the feedback. It probably is closer to a 100 rpm fluctuation, so that's good to hear that it is normal. I would appreciate you letting me know your rpms after you confirm.

I really wish I could find out what they changed in the new valve bodies (2011+) as it has made a huge improvement to acceleration and overall throttle response. I had the TCM flash done last year and it improved throttle response some, but nothing like this valve body replacement. I would suggest anyone with the "limp mode" problem or sluggish performance inquire with their service department about NTB11-002. I have to give my stealership credit... I couldn't reproduce the problem and they performed the NTB anyway. It had to be at least a $1500 repair if not more.

AlDente67

Mine is the same, and I was wondering why others are able to cruise at those speeds at lower RPM (would certainly help the highway gas mileage). I have a '12. Do I need to ask my service dept, or is this model year new enough to already have the TSB's included from the factory, I wonder.

Kawowski

Yeah, I remember seeing a post stating they can cruise at 1800 rpms going 80. Maybe some more people will chime in and we can see what the norm is. You should have the newest valve body. The TSB I was talking about only applied to 09'-10'. Mine is a 2010.

lightonthehill

I will be surprised if anyone here is doing 80 at 1800 rpms. 60 maybe. I will have to recheck and see what mine is doing. I did that back in January of '09, but have forgotten the results.

I do remember that my '78 Datsun 200SX did 3200 RPMs at 60. Granted, 2 liter engines are almost always mated to a differential that gives high RPM's in order to be able to accelerate with a weak engine. But I ended up rolling along on long freeway trips at over 4000 RPMs, with all the engine noise one would expect from such a situation.

I have never been into acceleration, and prefer a low RPM situation. Much quieter ride (and much better MPG) on long trips.

Kawowski

I would appreciate your feedback when you get a chance. I thought the 80 at 1800 seemed like an exaggeration, but I wanted to be sure and confirm my rpms are in line with other 7th gens.

Oh yes, I remember the good old days when we had 3 speed autos with overdrive. My first car was an 88' mustang 4-cylinder. One of the weakest engines I have ever driven, but Ford tried to geared it to have some semblance of a real 5.0 mustang in the low end at least (they failed.) It still had terrible acceleration and cruising at highway speeds was in the 3500-4000 range... forget about having a conversation with passengers.

I was loaned a 12' Altima 4-cylinder as a rental while they changed my valve body (my stealership really is pretty awesome) and I must say, although the power was impressive for a 4-cylinder, the engine sounded terribly loud and whiney and the overall feel was simply nowhere near as refined as the Max. (No offense Altima owners... not bashing, just my opinion) It really made me appreciate my Max.

As usual, thanks for the insight light, and for the record I am so thankful to have the comfort and quiet that our Max provides... not to mention the 290 horses when we want it!

bizarjuggalo

I checked mine on the way home today.

1750 rpm @ 60 mph
2100 rpm @ 70 mph
2475 rpm @ 80 rpm

Kawowski

Thanks for checking... mine are the same so I think everything is ok. Again, anyone who has "limp mode" problems or bogging down issues, I can't say enough what a huge difference the new valve body has made!

lightonthehill

AAnd my RPMs are also the same for 60 and 70 MPH. There is no place in my county where I can check 80 MPH without upsetting the county mounties, who are everywhere. But I feel sure my 80 MPH RPMs would be the same also.

2young2retire

I checked the speed/rpm ratio at 70 on my Max and it is the same as others, 2100 @ 70 mph. However, my '11 Murano runs 1900 @ 70 mph. I guess they are trying to squeeze a little more mpg out of it.

lightonthehill

Yes, the Maxima is considered more sporty, while the Murano has a more practical lean. The Maxima needs slightly higher RPMs in order to have better acceleration.

Also, I think the Murano may have a taller profile tire than the Maxima, hence might have a larger outside diameter (I'm not even sure what the wheel size is on the Murano). This could enable the Murano to cover more ground than the Maxima with each turn of the wheel, giving a lower RPM reading at comparable speeds. Of course there are many other factors involved, such as axle ratio, etc.

The Maxima also has 30 more HP than the Murano. That extra HP, plus having a higher RPM level at comparable speeds, gives the Maxima much better acceleration than the Murano. 0 to 60 for the Maxima is around 6 seconds, while that number is around 7.6 for the Murano.

Even with the faster RPMs, the Maxima gets 22 MPG during Consumer Reports testing, while the heavier Murano gets only 19.

dr_2010SV

No such thing as a "norm" for the XTRONIC translipshon.
This bizarre drive-train component seems to have a mind of itself!
I ask it.... from a stop to stomp in Ds mode and before it reaches the first phony shift point I will slam it over into D mode. From there it just keeps revving past 6K RPM @ a speed legal 65-70 MPH before I have to lift.
I hate to call it (experimentation) but I'll try and continue to see if the XTRONC will respond to other physical manipulation to allow a normal MPH versus < redline RPM.

I know...good luck.

longisland09maxima

I have been having the exact same issues but it comes and goes. I went to the dealer and all they said was we dont feel it when we drive it and its not throwing any codes. I am getting aggravated because i bought a 290 HP car that drives like a sentra these days. Any ideas on what i can do?? Feel pretty helpless.

Thanks

longisland09maxima

I have these exact same issues but not all the time and all they told me is that they cannot replicate the issue so theres nothing they can do. i mentioned the Valve Body 100 times but they just dismiss it cause they dont see any symptoms. Any advice??

dr_2010SV

Bumped 7200 RPM at 60mph from a dead stop in D mode pulling out to beat traffic. Gotta just love the CVT.
That valvebody change out did wonders....

longisland09maxima

well they better change out mine hey 2010SV can you explain what your symptoms were in detail. Was it constant or sporadic etc???

dr_2010SV

Also sent you a PM.


LI09,

What I experienced yesterday suprised me because I had always thought that this tranny would for the most part keep the rpm's at or below redline based upon the speed of the vehicle. I other words you think one would need to be well over 100+ mph before even starting to see the tach approaching redline or above?
The one thing that may have occured was I lost a bit of traction due to having the wheels turned when pulling out which probably caused the engine to spike the R's?

Anyway...this was from a prior post concerning the sluggishness of the CVT:

Total valve body R&R due to "SLOWER THAN NORMAL ACCELERATION"
The tech drove the car and confirmed that from a start or slow crawl the car was slow to accelerate...

Got the car back from the dealership on Sat with the new valvebody installed in the CVT. It does accelerate much better.
The tech said it now has the 2011/2012 configuration. No TSB-138 reflash
was accomplished .
The dealership is holding the repair order open so I can drive the car for a couple of days in case I notice any other issues with the repair.
I plan on stopping back in to pick-up the repair paperwork this week.
I will report back on what the NTB number was. I think the tech said it was NTB11-002A....?

2010 Nissan Maxima Power Train Service Bulletin 313508


NHTSA: Action Number: 10038184 Service Bulletin Number: 313508

• Report Date:
  Feb 28, 2011
• Component:
  Power Train

Kawowski

Mine was random and I could not get it to duplicate for the dealer. I guess I am lucky to have the dealer I have. I just told them that I had the problem, I have researched the issue, listed the TSB, and stated I want the valve body replaced. They said because it was a safety issue, that they would replace it. I would really stress you are concerned for your safety, your family's safety, blah blah blah... If they still won't do it, I'd say you want it in writing that they are refusing to address a safety issue known to the company (per TSB.) If they still refuse, contact corporate or try another dealer. Good luck!

Xman2012

I have noticed the same problem just yesterday - having cruse control set at 70mph rpm constantly floats between 2000rpm and 2300rpm how ever vehicle speed remains at 70mph. This is not normal - any automatic transmission including CVT has a torque converter lock up function - at highway speeds torque converter is locked and any variance in engine rpm will cause vehicle speed to change (if you accelerate slowly the rpm will go up slowly as the speed of the vehicle slowly increases - if you accelerate harder you will see a significant jump in rpm as the converter is released) - I am pretty sure that what is happening is the converter is constantly being released and locked over and over again. Tomorrow I will talk with a friend who is a Nissan technician for over 25 years - I am sure he will have the answer.

mattz300

Just had my 90K service done along with every fluid in the car replaced. Only had drain/refill on CVT at my local Nissan dealership. 3 days later had this same issue with my transmission with no power and "limp mode" seeming like a perfect explanation.

Just called the dealership and am dropping it off tomorrow. They mentioned that they believed they knew what it could be, when I told them the SB # they confirmed that is where they were going to start.

I will let you all know how this turns out. Thanks for all the info on this topic! What a score on my part to find this today!

mattz300

Update: Nissan said they were just going to "reset" the CVT which I would assume means resetting the TCM and ECU. Told me to drive it easy for a day and I have done that more 5 days. Cant get on it right now due to the rain but so far it seems pretty good. If issues come back I will post here.