Advice on driving Maxima after used tranny replacement??
#1
Advice on driving Maxima after used tranny replacement??
Hi all! Asking for advice here. Many of you have read my dreadful threads on my transmission failure and junkyard tranny procured and being installed into my car...
So...car has 148K, drove beautiful, transmission failed (metal shavings like a big tranny cheese grater run around inside there) and I got a 40K mile junkyard transmission from a 2010 model wrecked in 2013 (good - low miles and running at time it was wrecked).
Local transmission shop started replacement today. When replacing transmission or the TCM in Maximas, the factory service manual indicates that the transmission control module needs to be reprogrammed. It advises CAUTION: Do not drive vehicle and later advises CAUTION: Do not start engine.
The dealership in Wytheville, VA (35 miles away) said "won't hurt to drive it, but it will drive a little odd". I'm going to call 3 other local dealerships and see what they say.
Would y'all drive your Maxima to the dealer? See how it drove for a mile or two and then decide?
Thanks,
Travis
So...car has 148K, drove beautiful, transmission failed (metal shavings like a big tranny cheese grater run around inside there) and I got a 40K mile junkyard transmission from a 2010 model wrecked in 2013 (good - low miles and running at time it was wrecked).
Local transmission shop started replacement today. When replacing transmission or the TCM in Maximas, the factory service manual indicates that the transmission control module needs to be reprogrammed. It advises CAUTION: Do not drive vehicle and later advises CAUTION: Do not start engine.
The dealership in Wytheville, VA (35 miles away) said "won't hurt to drive it, but it will drive a little odd". I'm going to call 3 other local dealerships and see what they say.
Would y'all drive your Maxima to the dealer? See how it drove for a mile or two and then decide?
Thanks,
Travis
#2
From my understanding, the TCM reset is a series of pressing on the gas pedal while the car is in the ON position. From there, the car will reset to factory settings and as you drive it will then relearn your driving style as the transmission has presets built into its computer. Pulling the negative battery cable should achieve the same effect, but to be sure, there is a TCM reset tutorial out there.
#4
Yep. Relearn is a series of steps requiringlightly pressing gas while in reverse but requires the Consult-III to be connected to put it in a particular diagnostic mode and to monitor temp.
Dealer nearest is 35 miles away.
Dealer nearest is 35 miles away.
#6
I am with this guy on this. Why take a chance after what all you just went through?
#7
I would have it towed, especially given the amount of time, money, and grief you have invested, but for a slightly different reason. I know you are accutely aware of the cvt fluid fills, the radiator cooler and the filter for the cvt so if there were a "air bubble" or wrong procedure used, not only would your transmission be "ruined" but you would still have to call for a tow.
I seriously doubt any programming of the TCM would cause damage, at worse, bad shift points (I know that sounds silly for a cvt) but as you know, there are TSBs out for reprogramming the CVT for that very reason.
I am glad to hear you are close to getting back on the road! Please continue to keep us updated.
I seriously doubt any programming of the TCM would cause damage, at worse, bad shift points (I know that sounds silly for a cvt) but as you know, there are TSBs out for reprogramming the CVT for that very reason.
I am glad to hear you are close to getting back on the road! Please continue to keep us updated.
#8
I would have it towed, especially given the amount of time, money, and grief you have invested, but for a slightly different reason. I know you are accutely aware of the cvt fluid fills, the radiator cooler and the filter for the cvt so if there were a "air bubble" or wrong procedure used, not only would your transmission be "ruined" but you would still have to call for a tow.
I seriously doubt any programming of the TCM would cause damage, at worse, bad shift points (I know that sounds silly for a cvt) but as you know, there are TSBs out for reprogramming the CVT for that very reason.
I am glad to hear you are close to getting back on the road! Please continue to keep us updated.
I seriously doubt any programming of the TCM would cause damage, at worse, bad shift points (I know that sounds silly for a cvt) but as you know, there are TSBs out for reprogramming the CVT for that very reason.
I am glad to hear you are close to getting back on the road! Please continue to keep us updated.
I called 4 local dealerships.
1 advised it was safe to drive, but would probably "drive funny".
1 advised that the reprogram most likely wouldn't be needed at all and to drive gently to let the TCM relearn the new transmission.
1 advised that it was safe to drive IF it would drive at all without the reprogram.
The last stated that all the local transmission shops tow the vehicle to them to have this done because it can damage the transmission and most likely, wouldn't drive at all.
It'll be towed to the dealer.
#9
Transmission installed today. Picked it up and hauled down by dad with flatbed trailer. Got to dealer and verified that it would be in failsafe mode but was safe to drive from flatbed to park it couple hundred feet away. Was told that in failsafe, it would "feel like it was stuck in 3rd gear". Indeed it did. Very easily drove it to parking spot as directed and no dashboard lights (thank goodness) but it did feel odd (slow slow). Either way, dealer will reprogram TCM tomorrow (today now as it is 0041 EST) and hopefully life will be good again. Have had a lot of dreams about picking car up, driving around, things were good...so hopefully they will come to be true. Lol.
#10
Best of luck to you! Sounds like you're coming to the end of your very long and costly journey. Hopefully you'll have the car back did the weekend as I hear it's supposed to be hot and sunny! Good luck!
#12
The dealer told me it would be in failsafe mode and it did feel like it, for sure. Reprogram done with no issue (this was a 1 hr service that probably took about 15 minutes at max). Also had it aligned and turned them down for resurfacing all my brake rotors for $300 and flushing all the other fluids (because I've already done that recently). LOL.
Have put about 60 miles on new (used) transmission. It drives beautifully. I gave the shop a 2.5 gallon jug of Amsoil CVT fluid and they used all but about 2 quarts. Total capacity is 10 3/4 quarts from dry, so that's pretty close to an entire flush. It honestly drives a little better than the original transmission. Shifts are much smoother (into R and D), otherwise it drives great. Transmission is completely silent (one before was also). I haven't been brave enough to go more than about 1/3rd throttle and probably won't for a long time unless absolutely necessary. I've also noticed (and several forum members have posted regarding) there is no more "hunting" or fluctuating rpm while cruising on highway. My original transmission constantly would fluctuate 100-200rpm, up an down all the time, ever couple seconds while at highway speeds. That is gone now.
A really odd benefit - no more knocking. I've posted several threads on the forum in relation to the infamous #1 main bearing knock, which I positively, undeniably had (or thought I had). A very noticeable "pecking" noise at idle when warm, in gear (R or D) or in N or P. The knock would always go away when the torque converter locked up. Low speeds in parking lots, it would always knock, then when TC locked up, knock was gone. NOW, I positively, undeniably have absolutely no knock whatsoever. It's gone. Completely silent except normal engine noise. I am 110% positive it's not in my head and I'm firmly convinced that it was the transmission (torque converter most likely) knocking. I theorized that when the TC locked up, it somehow stabilized the crankshaft. Now, I'm 99.9% sure that the knock was from the original transmission. This one doesn't do it at all.
Either way, I'm glad this is over. No leaks or error codes or anything odd. I am uber-ecstatic to have my car back. Maybe I won't be in such a hurry to trade it off now. My goal was originally 300,000 miles and hopefully I can see that through...
Thanks all for support. Rough not having your car, especially when you depend on it for your livelihood like I do (no such thing as hitching a ride from someone with my job).
Thanks,
Travis
Have put about 60 miles on new (used) transmission. It drives beautifully. I gave the shop a 2.5 gallon jug of Amsoil CVT fluid and they used all but about 2 quarts. Total capacity is 10 3/4 quarts from dry, so that's pretty close to an entire flush. It honestly drives a little better than the original transmission. Shifts are much smoother (into R and D), otherwise it drives great. Transmission is completely silent (one before was also). I haven't been brave enough to go more than about 1/3rd throttle and probably won't for a long time unless absolutely necessary. I've also noticed (and several forum members have posted regarding) there is no more "hunting" or fluctuating rpm while cruising on highway. My original transmission constantly would fluctuate 100-200rpm, up an down all the time, ever couple seconds while at highway speeds. That is gone now.
A really odd benefit - no more knocking. I've posted several threads on the forum in relation to the infamous #1 main bearing knock, which I positively, undeniably had (or thought I had). A very noticeable "pecking" noise at idle when warm, in gear (R or D) or in N or P. The knock would always go away when the torque converter locked up. Low speeds in parking lots, it would always knock, then when TC locked up, knock was gone. NOW, I positively, undeniably have absolutely no knock whatsoever. It's gone. Completely silent except normal engine noise. I am 110% positive it's not in my head and I'm firmly convinced that it was the transmission (torque converter most likely) knocking. I theorized that when the TC locked up, it somehow stabilized the crankshaft. Now, I'm 99.9% sure that the knock was from the original transmission. This one doesn't do it at all.
Either way, I'm glad this is over. No leaks or error codes or anything odd. I am uber-ecstatic to have my car back. Maybe I won't be in such a hurry to trade it off now. My goal was originally 300,000 miles and hopefully I can see that through...
Thanks all for support. Rough not having your car, especially when you depend on it for your livelihood like I do (no such thing as hitching a ride from someone with my job).
Thanks,
Travis
#15
Sounds good 2 questions I have if you dont mind answering.
How much did this cost you total? Labor and parts warranty...(I always hear of dealer warranty replacement cost ~$5k.. never really knew this was an option).
Did the dealer take that tranny part back which you were trying to return?
How much did this cost you total? Labor and parts warranty...(I always hear of dealer warranty replacement cost ~$5k.. never really knew this was an option).
Did the dealer take that tranny part back which you were trying to return?
#16
The dealer did take back the valve body and didn't charge restocking fee. That particular dealer has a really awesome parts guy (Wallace Nissan in Kingsport, TN).
A new transmission from Nissan is $2100 and I was told at least 12 hours of labor at $95/hr. So, may as well figure at least $3500 but likely more. Going the avenue of using local shop, Junkyard transmission and hauling to dealer was $583 for shop labor, $800 for Junkyard tranny, $110 for fluid, $50 for seals filter and gasket, $205 for reprogram plus alignment at dealer. So $1749. Cheaper than a new transmission altogether. Whole lot more frustrating, but I have truck and flatbed trailer at my disposal so no charges for hauling car. Also the inconvenience of not having a car for 6 weeks. But ya know, it was worth saving thousands of dollars.
A new transmission from Nissan is $2100 and I was told at least 12 hours of labor at $95/hr. So, may as well figure at least $3500 but likely more. Going the avenue of using local shop, Junkyard transmission and hauling to dealer was $583 for shop labor, $800 for Junkyard tranny, $110 for fluid, $50 for seals filter and gasket, $205 for reprogram plus alignment at dealer. So $1749. Cheaper than a new transmission altogether. Whole lot more frustrating, but I have truck and flatbed trailer at my disposal so no charges for hauling car. Also the inconvenience of not having a car for 6 weeks. But ya know, it was worth saving thousands of dollars.
#18
Just re-read prior post. Not sure what you mean about parts warranty. I had 148,000 miles so I was way out of warranty for CVT. Junkyard transmission has a 90 day warranty. If purchased new from Nissan, I would highly doubt they would warranty it 5 feet out of the parking lot. Lol.
#20
Just re-read prior post. Not sure what you mean about parts warranty. I had 148,000 miles so I was way out of warranty for CVT. Junkyard transmission has a 90 day warranty. If purchased new from Nissan, I would highly doubt they would warranty it 5 feet out of the parking lot. Lol.
#21
Have never had a major part failure on any vehicle I have owned like this so have no clue about this. I was just imagining Nissan wouldn't honor a warranty but this is good to know. Thanks.
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