MK33

Well It looks like Im the only one in here who can't get this thing working! My LED light is not even coming on and I know I hooked up all fo the connections correctly! Can someone tell me which programming Im supposed to follow on the instructions? Im so confused! Any help is appreciated.

tonydatigeryo

Once you connect the T-harness to the brakes, key port, and obd2 ports, and then connect the T-harness to the dball2, the LED should come on (mine came on before I had done anything with the PTS switch wire). I believe it draws power from the obd2 port but I could be wrong. If the LED isn't coming on at all (solid or flashing) something is probably wrong. Where did you purchase your setup from? Did they flash the dball2 with 402.NISS3HT v2.16 ? I'm not sure how to troubleshoot this type of issue as if everything is actually connected properly, one of your two pieces isn't functioning as it should (whether it be programming/overall error with the dball2 or a short with the t-harness).

MK33

I actually had everything plugged into the Dball as I was hooking it all up! I wonder if I fried something? I got it from ebay. Maybe I need to disconnect everything from the dball and reconnect? Also they flashed everything accordingly

tonydatigeryo

Try disconnecting everything from the dball2 and reconnecting in the order stated in the PDF I linked in an earlier post (the programming instructions). If you do that and the LED still doesn't come on then something is definitely broken if everything is connected properly. I actually had everything hooked up as well when I was doing it, so I highly doubt you fried your unit.

MK33

Ok I tried that and its still not working. In the morning I will unhook everything and plug it back up and see if that changes anything. If not then I will contact the seller and request a new unit. Also which programming guide do I use in the manual? Can I cut all of those wires that arent being used? There are so many different colored wires that seem to have no purpose.

tonydatigeryo

Start with the instructions under "Module Reset". After that, do steps one through five starting on page ten. I didn't even bother with the feature programming personally as it seemed unnecessary, and everything works to my expectations as is. Don't do a hard reset though or you'll end up needing your dball2 reflashed!

tonydatigeryo

Any luck?

MK33

So I emailed the sellers and they told me that the dball gets its power from the brake pedal and for me to try swith one of the small black B2 connectors since there are two. Turns out that was the problem! Who knew! I dont know if you guys just lucked up and chose the right one the first time or what but I had a 50/50 chance of picking the right one and I picked the wrong one!

So it is working to a degree but my car only cranks when the key is inside the car! Im sure its probably some kind of programming issue but I haven't had time to dive into it yet. So outside the car Ill press the lock 3 times and it does all the lights and stuff but won't crank and I peak in the car and it's saying no key present. Ill figure it out unless you guys got suggestions?

boatguy272

Mine were labeled ???

tonydatigeryo

Yup, you have to program it to your vehicle. Put it into programming mode, press the unlock on the keyfob, insert key into key port, and then step on the brakes. If all goes well, the LED will turn green.

Glad you got the power issue sorted out!

MK33

And Im good! That was an ordeal mainly because of that one plug! I didnt see anywhere where it says if that one plug doesnt work to try the other! Well Im good to go! Thanks everyone for all your help. Probably couldnt have and would not have even tried it without you!

GT4

Sorry for the late reply. I was busy in the last 2 days and didn't get a chance to check this forum.


According to the programming instruction (p.14 on the manual), it says:


"Press the lock/arm or unlock/disarm button on aftermarket transmitter to change the option of the selected feature. When installing the DBALL in RSR using 3x OEM Lock Remote Start Activation only, there is no aftermarket transmitter on which to press lock/unlock to change the options of the selected feature. Tapping the green or blue lock/unlock wires on the black 10-pin harness to ground will change the option for the selected feature."

So unless you're connecting to the XL202 or SmartStart module, there's no aftermarket transmitter. Therefore, I connected the black 10-pin harness and used the green or blue wire (either one is fine) to set the programming features.


But as long as it works for you, that's all that matters .


As of the posi-tap, yes, it's very convenient, and it makes the connection cleaner. But if you already had the wires soldered and they are tight and secured, then I don't think it's worth the effort to remove the panels and redo it. I personally hate removing panels, and I try to avoid doing it unless necessary .

GT4

Yes, I believe it was the B-01 plug that we should use. The B-02 plug would not work. Sorry, I forgot to mention it in my previous post. I'm glad that you finally got your problem solved!

gregjhonda

Got mine installed! Works great with no reprogramming. Three connectors and one wire tapped into the PTS switch brown wire. Got mine on ebay HERE .

Kam007tv

Just received my kit from eBay. Will attempt this install hopefully sometime this week. Any other words of wisdom before I try this.....

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

I'm about to order from the ebay link, but have a few questions:

Is there a difference between the THNISS3 T-Harness vs the THNISS3C T-Harness? - Just curious.

For those that ordered the kit from ebay, what did you receive?
For example, did you receive the module, the T-harness + brake adapter, and/or something else?

Second Question:
What is the parking light tap for? Once the car is remote started, do the parking lights blink or is the tap there for some other reason?

EDIT AGAIN: Most questions are answered in this thread on the g37 forums: http://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-seda...installed.html
Might order the parts separately. I want to XKLoader thingy to program things.

BIGIRISHSTL

Anyone in MO or STL that has done this mod with success? Would love to have some help if I were to do myself. Hit me up.

Rockblue

True that but has anyone ran into the problem of not being able to disable the auto door lock function from the keyfob?


Rockblue

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

I've finally gotten the DBALL2 and THNISS3 installed today, minus a few hiccups. (The Posi-taps I got were the wrong size, so when I installed it, the needle part missed so no connection.)
Fixed that, and it started normally.

For those that, like me, don't like disturbing neighbors and others, remote starting with the horn beeps off is a possibility. Only tried it once, so maybe that was a fluke. Will do more testing later on.

tonydatigeryo

I always have horn beep off, couldn't imagine remote starting all the time with it on.

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

Oh good, it wasn't a fluke then.
The installation manual said that it must be on for it to work. Glad that is not the case

tonydatigeryo

Yeah, I remember reading that too and being pleasantly surprised when that wasn't the case. Would be super annoying if it were true.

SR20Power

iTrader: (1)

Why is there no picture of this install yet??? grrrr lol
I just purchased my 2011 Maxima premium yesterday and I am looking to do this install.

I tried the links to see what I need to buy but they are down, if someone would be kind enough to repost newer links of everything needed to buy and maybe someone can do a write up on how to do everything from start to finish that would be great.

I also understand that it needs to be programed, are you guys buying the module programmed or are you programming it yourself?
Also, does the car shut off when you enter the car to drive off? I.e. when you put your foot on the breaks to put the car into drive?

Thanks guys, and update on if everything is still working well..

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

Remote Start Module: DB-ALL2
T-Harness: THNISS3
Module Flash Tool: XKLOADER2
All links are from Amazon.

It's a bunch of wires and a box lol. Nothing fancy.

Links posted at the top of post for easier finding. I guess I'll work on a write up and take some pictures. I do need to go back in there and tidy up my work.

Some of us got it pre-flashed, some of us flashed it ourselves.
I wanted to program it and change a few options myself, instead of being locked to something and not being to change or upgrade things later on.
Also, it's reusable and fairly cheap, and in the event of something going wrong, being corrupted, or whatever, I can always re-flash it.

The firmware has what they call "Get in and Go Technology" where it "monitors a few things for a secure takeover".
In other words, have your key on you, get in, press brake, shift to R/D/Ds/M (or Neutral if you really want/need to...) and drive.
If you DO NOT have your key with you when you press the brakes, then the car will shut off (at least for me).
I will do more testing to see what else will make it shut off.

I am encountering issues with friends: They're jealous. I'm not sure if this is fixable...

SR20Power

iTrader: (1)

LMAO awesome thanks for the response, what are the things you can program yourself to tweak the options? I was a little confused about the "get in and go Technology" but I understand, it make sense to NOT to be able to drive without the key near the car hence that means someone can just steal it.

Looking forward to the pictures and write-up.

Key FOB question, My car does not automatically lock when I walk away from the car like other similar key fob setup cars.. Is there something I can change about that.

Rockblue

I have the dball installed and working but my outside lights and the troubleshooting light on the module blinks six times when I shutdown the car.

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

A few options that I can remember off the top of my head are:

• Engine Idle Time - If you walk away from your car while it is on, it controls how long the engine will run before it turns off.
• Remote Start Runtime - How long the car will run after remote started and no interaction at all.
• Controlling door locks - when they lock. All seem to unlock only when ignition is turned off.
• OEM Alarm Control - How the DBALL2 unit will control the OEM alarm
• Parking Light Control - If you want it to be on during Remote Start or not.
• The other options are mainly so the unit will actually work correctly: OEM security Disarm on Data and Door Lock Control on Data

Here is the copy and paste from the installation manual:

Get In and Go Get In and Go is designed to provide users with easy takeover when entering their Push-to-Start (PTS) equipped vehicle, once it has been remote started. Typically, users would have to remote start their vehicle, then get inside and press the vehicle start button to perform a takeover. There is therefore a physical action required to drive away. With Get In and Go technology, you simply remote start the vehicle, unlock the doors, get in and go... Nothing to do but put the gear in drive and enjoy your vehicle. This unique feature monitors a variety of parameters such as the key fob, vehicle speed sensor and door sensor, in order to perform takeover securily.


As far as I know, there is not.

Six blinks according to the manual is:
Hood shutdown/Remote start safety override switch is ON*.
Are you sure you have all the wires correctly connected? Is the remote safety override switch working correctly or turned "ON"?

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

EDIT: Imageshack does not allow hotlinking anymore, and instead wants you to download each image separately... I guess I will not be using imageshack anymore.
If the images don't work or if anyone wants me to upload to a different service, let me know.

Finally got around to it after rain and finishing my other tasks.

First, a disclaimer:
I am not responsible for what you do to your car and whatever happens is completely your responsibility. This guide is only to be used as a reference, and ensure that all safety precautions are performed before working on your car. As always, operate your car in a safe manner, and please, don't drink something alcoholic, install remote starter (optional), and drive.

Now, onto the write up.

First, I pulled the fuse for the cabin lighting, because I did not want to kill my battery with the door open and lights on all the time. I have full custom puddle lights, so battery usage is slightly higher. [No picture... Yet(?)]
Move your seat all the way back, and adjust the steering wheel to be in the highest position. This will give you more room to work with.

Pull the side cover off: I used my fingernails, though I warn you, it is fairly difficult to pull off. If you have something flat and provides good wide leverage, use that:
Two pictures of the cover and its clips: Cover: Where it goes:

Unscrew this bolt here, near the fuse box. This is the only screw that secures the lower dashboard cover to the car.


Everything else is secured via clips.
Pull towards the rear of the car, until the clips give and come out.
There are four clips total:
Driver Side: Passenger Side:

There will be multiple wires and clips holding the lower cover to the car, so be careful while you work. I choose to leave them in place, as I've done this before, and didn't want to undo and redo everything.

There are four connections you need to make in total:
First, the OBDII Connection.
Unscrew this screw so you can lift the connector out for easier access. Also this is where I decided to place my DBALL2 unit. I might move it again if it falls off again...


Plug the original OBDII access port into the T-harness, and the lock it in using the small yellow lever. Insert the other T-harness OBDII port into the metal bracket. Secure the metal bracket back down.
OBDII Connector: T-harness'd:

Remove Original Keyport plug and insert T-harness connection T-01.
Key port connector: T-harness'd:

Unplug the brake plug, and insert the T-harness here as well.
We will be using T-harness connection B-01:

Lastly, the ignition switch. We need to tap into the brown push to start wire. I used Posi-taps, though unfortunately, I do not have pictures of the tap at the push to start wire. Consult the manual for a picture of the wire to tap.
To get remote the push to start button, I choose to unscrew two screws so I can lift the upper dash board cowl a little:
Driver Side: Passenger Side:

The switch slides out easily for a few people, I had trouble with mine, and had to use some force to finally slide it out. Again, sorry, no pictures.
The wire to connect to the push to start switch is the green one. I wanted more wire to work with, so the white/black wire is my own. Posi-taps for the win.
Next post for picture because 15 image per post limit...

Once everything is connected, the programming begins. (Next Post)

Akiyukio

iTrader: (1)

Here is the green wire along with my Posi-tap and wire extension (black and white wire):

To program:
Connect the black connector first the the DBALL2. There should only be one wire coming out of this black connector.
Connect the red connector second, and finally the blue connector.

The DBALL2 should now be on with a solid red light.
Press your unlock button on the key fob. -> Blinking orange light.
Insert the key fob into the keyport -> Still Blinking orange light
Press and hold brake. -> After about 3 seconds, the light should turn solid green, and after about 3 seconds, turn off.
Release brake, and remove the keyfob. You have successfully programmed the module.
Contrary to what the installation manual says, your horn DOES NOT need to be on for it to work (Yay!)

Here are some general pictures.
This connection is not used:
Over view shots:

SR20Power

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much fOr taking the time to write this up. .

BIGIRISHSTL

Great write up. I've seen all of them in this thread and this one is really helpful. Thanks again and I hope I do this mod. Seems relatively easy... Maybe!

SR20Power

iTrader: (1)

Yes up load to a different service… Photobucket

juiceC23

Just got my kit from eBay two days ago and installed it myself and works like a charm. Thank you for the write up. It only took 1/2 hr.

mjhuffer

I'm ordering mine from Ebay as we speak but the seller is saying I need to pay some extra money and get a DBALL2Pro and that DEI has stopped allowing the DBALL2 to do the 3X OEM Lock Remote to Start. Can someone please verify they are using the DBALL2 with firmware 402.NISS3HT v2.16 in order to remote start their car with their OEM remote by pressing the lock 3X.

mjhuffer

From what I've heard from DEI and a licensed installer, you have to purchase the DBALL2Pro now because DEI has changed the flashing procedure on the DBALL2. Basically when flashing the firmware on the DBALL2, it won't allow the 3X OEM Remote Start option to be selected. This all went into effect on 10/1/2014. Really shady on the DEI's part basically forcing me to now purchase a product that is double the price. Can anybody that has the flashing software please verify this for me. I need to get this done before the cold weather hits but obviously would like to spend as little money as possible.

Burgtoad67

Literally just created an account to inquire about this as well. Was going to order from (presumably) the same eBay store and now 09 Max's are no longer listed as "compatible". How much more does this guy want to charge for the DBALL2Pro vs. the DBALL2?

mjhuffer

Well he's charging me $79.99 for the DBALL2Pro with flashing which I thought was a good deal. However, I purchased the THNISS3 for a great deal on eBay but you need the THNISS3C for the DBALL2Pro so now I have to purchase a different harness. If I would have just purchased this a month earlier I could have gotten away for under $80. Now it's looking like it will cost me around $135 for both.

Burgtoad67

So I'm assuming installation will be the same? I've been trying to read the instructions and manuals for the Pro online and everything seems similar. I'd just hate to screw something up since we'll be on a slightly different model.

assiduous

I got smart start the other day, and there was no key fob that came with it.

However it did enable my factory key fob to start the car. It takes a really long time, the range is a joke, and there have to be no obstructions whatsoever. I did not pay extra for that, it obviously comes with the smart start

mjhuffer

From what it looks like the installation is the same thing except for one more plug in. I'm going to do a complete tutorial once I get everything. I'm so salty at DEI for doing this to us. I'm just wondering what will happen to people who have ordered it before and now can't flash the appropriate settings for troubleshooting.