jt151

Anyone else having trouble starting their car in this hot a$$ weather. I don't have any problems starting the car in the morning. After work, when the cars been sitting in the sun for 6-8 hours, it takes a couple of cranks and pumps on the pedal to get the car started. It's not even a smooth start...kind of stumbles and then recovers to normal idle.

NGK Plats only 8,000 miles
5W-30 Full Synthetic only 2,000 miles
Battery and Alternator checks OK

klaustah

same thing used to happen to me... and the problem actually ended up being the ignition, had to get it replaced, but its weird that the hot weather would affect the ignition, as it would start in the morning and at night with no problem, but now it works instantly with the new ignition...

BossMoney

how much did your new ignition run you??
I'm having the SAME EXACT problem, and I just got my Max, (89k miles, sat for year and a half). The car starts well in the evening, but this morning, had to turn the key about 4-5 times, and pump the pedal to get it to idle normally.

jt151

The actual ignition switch?!! That's really wierd that the weather has an effect on it. Are you sure it wasn't the starter?

klaustah

hmm it might have been the starter, but i needed to change the whole thing because part of the problem was also that the key would be loose in the ignition, it was a while ago so i dont remember exactly what it was, and i just changed it all so i wouldnt need to deal with it anymore... i think it ran me a couple hundred including labor, i did it with my mechanic and got the ignition from the stealership...

killcrap

iTrader: (3)

so did you have to replace the igniton switch or the ECM(ignition module)

sean33

I just put in my new ignition switch yesterday I had the same problems in the hot weather but mine would never start. Worked like a charm after sitting out all day in the sun the day I switched out the ignition switch

klaustah

yea it was the ignition switch, weird how the hot weather could affect it...

MechAnt

Ignition switch! Mine has that problem too but after consulting many friends and people here at the org i have deduced that yours, and my, problem is the ignition switch.

To replace it, open up the steering column housing around the steering wheel. You've done the hardest part already. Just to the left of the column, opposite where the key is inserted, you should see where one end of the wiring harness is connected (with two small screws). Follow the wiring (about 1 foot of wire) to the other connector. If you have the new ignition switch wiring ($27 + shipping at courtesyparts.com), you can't miss.
Thanks to Rickalodeon for all the help and info.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Don't be a **** and share your solution. It might help someone else down the road and they could have something as a reference.

95jr6708

i also had the exact same problem only reversed to where in the cool mornings it wouldnt start then later in the day it would. surpisingly enough it turned out to be the fuel pump? but everything works like normal now. well thats my two cents for now good luck.

THEJEFFERATOR

Anybody Know Why My 95 Would Suddenly Run Real Bad, Stalling, Major Power Loss, Hard Restart, Then Be Fine Minutes Later? Has Egr And Ks Code. Cleaned Stuck Egr And Unplugged Ks, Changed F. Filter. Cleaned Tb...no Change. Could The Ks Make It Run This Bad?

mathius

I've been having the exact same problem re: hard start in hot weather. Anyone have an explanation on how the functioning of the ignition switch could possibly be heat-dependent?

MechAnt

The ignition switch is affected by the hot weather because the stock solder or whatever in there is really messed up by the hot weather and starts to suck energy from the battery. Almost a short but not quite, only one step below it. So change that ignition switch! It's cheap and easy so what do you have to risk?

mathius

Sounds reasonable enough for me. On an unrelated note, anyone seen a sticky or thread on radiator replacement- I can't seem to find one? My plastic tank is cracked, and keeps spewing out coolant. Word.

rbreding

Just to clarify as I am having the same problem as you describe.

It cranks/starts just fine in the morning (engine is cold).
After it as been running for awhile or sitting in the sun (engine hot/warm) it takes extra cranks of the start for it to finally start. As it finally starts it runs rough for a second or two and idles normally after that.

On a side note, it "seems" as though my mileage as decreased about when this problem started. Not sure if it is realated or not.

Appreciate the replies.

BossMoney

I had the same problem everyone here is having..I just bought the biggest bottle of chevron techron and threw that in the gas. After a few days my car started great, tach shoots rightt up.

trademark

check the main relay

97Maximum133K

I was wondering...I recently bought a Maxima that has been sitting for awhile and the owner said that the gas is old but that it should work normal once I run down the old fuel.

I ran it down to E and filled up with premium gas. Do you think this will cure the problem? What it is that it's hard to start it up and it seems to be happening every other time I start it. He originally told me it'd only do that in the morning but it's like all day.

It's a bit embarrassing having a new car and it's hard to start LOL. I hope I didn't get sold a beater LOL. What do you think?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I think you shouldn't bump a 7 year old thread when there are current threads on the same topic. You have a common problem. Search for hard start, no start, cranks no start, and such. We need more info. If your gonna high Jack do it in a current thread.

clive

MikeF

Couple things to check.
1. Leaking injectors. You'll need a 1/4 inch "T" fitting and some extra fuel line and something of a pressure gauge (anything that will measure up to 40 psi will work). Remove the line between the top of the fuel filter and the fuel intake and put the pressure gauge in there. Use a vice grip and two rounded metal plates to clamp the RETURN Line from the injectors. The metal plates are to keep from damaging the line with the vice grip. Turn the key to ON (don't start it) and quickly clamp off the line from the top of the fuel filter with rounded metal plates and another vice grip. Now, if the pressure drops within 60 seconds, then you have a leaking injector and it's flooding your engine. You need to remove the injectors and determine which is bad. (Or try some injector cleaner first).

2. Make sure that the starter motor is turning the engine over FAST. If it's turning it over slowly, then it's not getting the right number of counts from the CrankSensor to the ECM. (poor battery connection, bad ground to the starter, etc.?).

Mik