Is this Limp mode???
12-20-2011, 05:27 PM
#1
Is this Limp mode???
So today i was with a friend who has a DEK but it wont go past 2400RPM and 30mph... when going down hill it wil stuggle past 30mph, in first gear it will sputter and is unresponsive at WOT however it will randomly and i mean randomly, like maybe 1 out of 20 tries go a lil above the 2400rpm but it limps the whole way there, i tried it and when i did there was like a fuel cut?? any experience only code i got was bank 1 sensor 1
12-20-2011, 05:42 PM
#6
I don't believe there is an exact code for the MAF Failure it is norally diagnosed by symptoms such as, sudden loss of power, not being able to rev. past 2500 rpm a host of other sensors will fire off codes which all lead back to a faulty MAF as the cause ... you have describe limp mode to a tee and the MAF would be the first place I would start to work from ... (if you have access to another MAF try to swap it in and see if the conditions are still present)
12-20-2011, 05:44 PM
#7
he went to the dealer cause they said its possibly the coils which they replaced but same thing... any other possible causes, im hes going to try a new MAF but any other info yall can think of?
he's got the paperwork from the dealer and they said possibly the ECM, which had gotten my st concern because the ECU's for the car is never really a reason why the car loses power like that better yet just randomly go bad and cause this so i was a bit confused but again there was no codes for ECM
he's got the paperwork from the dealer and they said possibly the ECM, which had gotten my st concern because the ECU's for the car is never really a reason why the car loses power like that better yet just randomly go bad and cause this so i was a bit confused but again there was no codes for ECM
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-21-2011 at 10:56 AM.
12-20-2011, 05:51 PM
#8
Had your friend performed any type of maintenance on the engine recently? just curious because that might have lead to the current conditions ... but if it simply just happened I point the finger at the MAF as that sensor either is working or it quits there is no in between.
12-20-2011, 05:52 PM
#9
When my MAF failed I read that one way to diagnosis it was to hold a screwdriver straight up and down with the handle end an inch above the MAF and drop it on the housing. Sure enough, the engine stumbled every time the screwdriver fell. I ended up buying a A1 Cardone MAF but took my old one apart and found the faulty solder joint.
12-20-2011, 05:59 PM
#10
Had your friend performed any type of maintenance on the engine recently? just curious because that might have lead to the current conditions ... but if it simply just happened I point the finger at the MAF as that sensor either is working or it quits there is no in between.
12-20-2011, 06:06 PM
#11
A few months ago seems a little to far back for the car just at random to start acting the way it is, I was thinking more of something he may have done in the past week. Did he say what work he had done?
Don't mean to beat on the MAF conclusion as most of us fault that part straight off but as I said there is no specific code for the MAF sensor just the symptoms that lead you to it.
Don't mean to beat on the MAF conclusion as most of us fault that part straight off but as I said there is no specific code for the MAF sensor just the symptoms that lead you to it.
12-20-2011, 06:11 PM
#12
A few months ago seems a little to far back for the car just at random to start acting the way it is, I was thinking more of something he may have done in the past week. Did he say what work he had done?
Don't mean to beat on the MAF conclusion as most of us fault that part straight off but as I said there is no specific code for the MAF sensor just the symptoms that lead you to it.
Don't mean to beat on the MAF conclusion as most of us fault that part straight off but as I said there is no specific code for the MAF sensor just the symptoms that lead you to it.
i also thought of the MAF also, a local orger has one i can try on it in the AM but also wanted to know of anything extra to look into when tackling the challenge? but i guess 1 step at a time... guy live 1hr away so me going to help is kinda far so i wanted to go in ready to tackle anything
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-21-2011 at 10:55 AM.
12-20-2011, 06:21 PM
#13
Well I am sure we have all at one point or another been down the road of replacing item after item trying to solve our problem, if its one thing I have learned is that Nissan fault codes can be trigger by a host of different items or combination of items, almost like a crap shot trying to diagnose the problem. I hear you on the travel time and only having one idea in mind to try ... but sorry to say I have little more to offer given the knowledge of your friends car but the glaring one of the MAF and the conditions you have described
12-20-2011, 06:29 PM
#15
agreed also... that was my 1st suggestion but i couldnt be 100% because ive had MAF issues but the car didnt limp to 2500 rpm, it goes there regular then limp but i had a 5.5 n this is a DEK s i didnt wanna set myself up fr failure but thanks ill try tomorrow n see and let you guys know
................ hmmm... well maybe when your car goes in limp mode god forbid... you can take some viagra n stick ya dcik in the muffler n see if that works n let us know..... 
oooooo what about clogged cats???... i kinda ruled that out as the motor wouldve probebly been blown by now lls
oooooo what about clogged cats???... i kinda ruled that out as the motor wouldve probebly been blown by now lls
Last edited by NmexMAX; 12-21-2011 at 10:55 AM.
12-20-2011, 08:02 PM
#16
Well if clog cats was an issue you would be getting some of the related codes which I believe you said the only code appeared to be an o2 related function. Another thought that did come to mind was the IACV as that is an issue with the 00-01, bad electronic motor mounts an combination of the mounts and bad IACV can short out the ECU causing limp mod, but there should have been a code thrown for the IACV ... not sure if a bad cam sensor, knock sensor or throttle control sensor would cause the car to go into limp mod as I have not ever had any of those issues ... but I keep coming back to the fact you didn't mention any related codes to cause you to think of these other parts.
12-21-2011, 09:38 AM
#22
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 42
The burn smell inside of car or outside under the hood? If outside look at fusible links and sniff around (literally) that ozone smell doesn't dissipate and will linger. If inside the car look at ECM. That being said a faulty IACV will not always throw a code and will still eat an ECM if it shorts. Ghost 54 has hit all of the relevant faults possible but, your best lead starts with location of the ozone smell.
12-21-2011, 11:28 AM
#23
It was from the outside I had to put my head out the window... its extremely light..... I just got here and here is wht I notice also..... upon 1st start up the engine limps crazy while the engine is cold.... it bogged down to maybe like 300rpm, catches itself then idles o.k then bogs again, andit will repeat itself a few times, when it bogs to 300 I tried to reverse the car n it died but I'm sure its because it was already idling so low... I don't have the MAF as yet,
12-21-2011, 11:32 AM
#24
Just turned the car off to let it cool down a lil n tried it again, the car starts perfect, let it sit and about 20 seconds in it starts bogging down slowly to 800rpm then to 300rpm then its as if its fighting to idle, it will go back up to maybe like 1100 then bogs bac down, do it about 3 times or so then it just stays kinda constant at anywhere between 300-500rpm I tried giving it gas but it wasn't responsive while its bogging that low
Last edited by Grand_hustle17; 12-21-2011 at 11:35 AM.
12-21-2011, 11:39 AM
#25
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Any way there could be a loose wire on the ECU? This may be irrelevant because my car is modified, but I recently had the exact same issue after someone did some tuning on my car and was going over the wiring for the UTEC. Long story short, the wire for the TPMS was not properly soldered and if things hit it just right the car would go into limp mode.
12-21-2011, 11:44 AM
#26
Originally Posted by nismomaxct
Any way there could be a loose wire on the ECU? This may be irrelevant because my car is modified, but I recently had the exact same issue after someone did some tuning on my car and was going over the wiring for the UTEC. Long story short, the wire for the TPMS was not properly soldered and if things hit it just right the car would go into limp mode.
No throttle on a 5.5 gen is fail safe, might get you killed.
Limp mode is it will be fine, heck you could even travel @ about 60MPH, but once you hit that magic 2400-2500 RPM point, bam no further.
GHustle, any codes that you can get? Sounds like an IACV + MAF issue.
12-21-2011, 11:51 AM
#27
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Limp mode is different than fail safe.
No throttle on a 5.5 gen is fail safe, might get you killed.
Limp mode is it will be fine, heck you could even travel @ about 60MPH, but once you hit that magic 2400-2500 RPM point, bam no further.
GHustle, any codes that you can get? Sounds like an IACV + MAF issue.
No throttle on a 5.5 gen is fail safe, might get you killed.
Limp mode is it will be fine, heck you could even travel @ about 60MPH, but once you hit that magic 2400-2500 RPM point, bam no further.
GHustle, any codes that you can get? Sounds like an IACV + MAF issue.
12-21-2011, 12:02 PM
#28
I had that problem many times when I hooked up my SAFCII. The TPS wire kept going wack, and triggering fail safe. Was horrid. I ended up adding an extra ground wire to the ECU metal chassis to alleviate the problem.
12-21-2011, 03:18 PM
#31
The bogging down at idle, could be TPS, or a fuel pump issue ... Have you tried an idel relearn to see if the idle will even out?
just a thought http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...elearn+5th+gen
just a thought http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...elearn+5th+gen
Last edited by Ghost_54; 12-21-2011 at 03:22 PM.
12-21-2011, 03:26 PM
#32
O.k so today was the biggest waste of a day, absolutely nothing got checked... my last post was a 4:15 and im just now stepping in the house with the car here but its already night time and im at my GF's place.... i just stepped foot into the car just awhile ago to move it into a parking space and this is what it does.... starts cool, after i reversed the car it bogged down and died... i noticed something a lil interesting while moving it a couple parking space over, it seems as if the alternator or battery will be going soon, there is quite a bit of corrosion built up around the terminals so ill go to advance auto tomorrow for a sheet of sand paper to clean the terminals on the battery to see if that help.... basically everytime i tap the gas the light will also dim down a lil bit... the windows does in fact moves pretty slow whenever i roll em up or down but i wasnt sure if it was just stuck or broken
12-21-2011, 04:51 PM
#36
A weak battery together with an alternator not putting out the correct voltage would cause the dash to light up like a Christmas Tree, TCS/ABS and the battery lights will all come on together. That said you would most likely have no forward motion, might be able to rev a little but forward motion would stop until enough power had been restored to the battery. As you said the terminals are pretty bad so yes they should be cleaned up, also check for 14-14.5 volts from the alternator if you have a meter. Don't think those to items would cause a limp mode symptom but they could cause the bogging as the power level drops off.
The O2 sensor depending on which one could be totally fried and cause the incorrect readings going to the ECU so the mix would be way off, which could also be the cause of the bogging but would not cause the limp mode power loss. The lack of the dash being all lite up with sensor lights and lack of problem codes still point to the MAF or possible a fried ECU both of these don't have a specific fault code and both will cause the current condition.
Sorry to hear that the trip was a bust for you, sound like drivers in your area are as bad as here if rains they seemed to forget how to drive.
The O2 sensor depending on which one could be totally fried and cause the incorrect readings going to the ECU so the mix would be way off, which could also be the cause of the bogging but would not cause the limp mode power loss. The lack of the dash being all lite up with sensor lights and lack of problem codes still point to the MAF or possible a fried ECU both of these don't have a specific fault code and both will cause the current condition.
Sorry to hear that the trip was a bust for you, sound like drivers in your area are as bad as here if rains they seemed to forget how to drive.
12-21-2011, 05:07 PM
#37
A weak battery together with an alternator not putting out the correct voltage would cause the dash to light up like a Christmas Tree, TCS/ABS and the battery lights will all come on together. That said you would most likely have no forward motion, might be able to rev a little but forward motion would stop until enough power had been restored to the battery. As you said the terminals are pretty bad so yes they should be cleaned up, also check for 14-14.5 volts from the alternator if you have a meter. Don't think those to items would cause a limp mode symptom but they could cause the bogging as the power level drops off.
The O2 sensor depending on which one could be totally fried and cause the incorrect readings going to the ECU so the mix would be way off, which could also be the cause of the bogging but would not cause the limp mode power loss. The lack of the dash being all lite up with sensor lights and lack of problem codes still point to the MAF or possible a fried ECU both of these don't have a specific fault code and both will cause the current condition.
Sorry to hear that the trip was a bust for you, sound like drivers in your area are as bad as here if rains they seemed to forget how to drive.
The O2 sensor depending on which one could be totally fried and cause the incorrect readings going to the ECU so the mix would be way off, which could also be the cause of the bogging but would not cause the limp mode power loss. The lack of the dash being all lite up with sensor lights and lack of problem codes still point to the MAF or possible a fried ECU both of these don't have a specific fault code and both will cause the current condition.
Sorry to hear that the trip was a bust for you, sound like drivers in your area are as bad as here if rains they seemed to forget how to drive.
12-22-2011, 01:59 PM
#39
