GarageToys

iTrader: (1)

Here's the story: I hit a pair of potholes (2 in a row) and I instinctively hit the brakes to slow down-- albeit a little late. I felt the ABS kick in as the car pounded the potholes. Then the ABS, TCS Off, and SLIP lights came on and stayed on.

When I shut the car off and re-started it 5 minutes later, the lights did not come back on... for a while. I drove for a couple minutes and noticed that they were all illuminated again. They haven't gone away since that first time that I shut off the car.

Anyone have this happen before or know how to resolve this issue?

ZGadson

I'd say go to an Autozone or O'Reily's and have your computer reset. Happened to me once before and the reset seemed to do the trick.

gezza

I believe the problem with my I30 (2001) is the same or similar as yours - after my wife hit the right front wheel on the curb (I don't know about the intensity as she chose to be vague), the ABS, TCS Off, and SLIP lights all came up and refused to leave. My mechanic checked the sendors, not finding anything wrong, and tried to clear the codes without success. Maybe resetting the comptuer will do the trick. I will try. Let keep each other updated about the progress~~

GarageToys

iTrader: (1)

I went to Vato Zone today and when the guy came out to the car with his code reader, I started it and (for the 1st time in days) the lights stayed off. Of course. Anyway, I explained which lights were on and he said the code reader won't do a thing for me anyway-- it's only for the service engine soon light, not ABS or Traction Control.

On the way back to work from Auto Zone, the lights came back on. I was going to try disconnecting the battery overnight next...

gezza

Too bad~ I was thinking benefiting from your experience, haha ~~ it's seems not to be so.
General OBDII coder reader will not read ABS etc. codes, let alone killing them. It takes a special kind of industrial code reader to read these codes. My mechanic check my car with THAT reader and it said the right/rear sensor had problem. The check the examined the sensor with some device and didn't find anything wrong, so he tried to kill eliminate the ligths, and they refused to go away.

suric

ya i have the same problem as you guys. first i had the abs problem where it would kick in at random times, i had that fixed it was a wire that had been frayed. cost me 300 bucks.. moving right along i then had the problems where the tcs and slip light would stay on, then i would take it to the mechanic and theyd turn off, and over and over again it does this randomly but will go away sometimes if i try restarting the car. it wasnt till after this i smashed the right front strut and axel so it had alot of work done on it unfortunately the speed sensor tha was said to be causing the problem was "fixed" but it still happens.

dough

Did anyone have any success in fixing this. I have an 01 I30 and all three of these lights came on last week. My mechanic checked all the sensors and said they were all fine. He cannot reset the lights and believes I need a new ABS circuit box. I do not want to pay the $1,500 for this. Anyone have any suggestions?

L0R1DA

Check your ABS wheel sensor or the inductance ring on the axle.

GarageToys

iTrader: (1)

OK, we now have 4 people with the same problem. Someone else on this board must've had this problem and fixed it. Even if you took it to the dealer, chime in and let us know what the solution was (and how much it cost to fix).

Mine stays off for days now, then comes on for a while, then turns back off. I did figure out that it's not just the lights-- the actual devices aren't working when the lights are on. When they were lit, I hammered the brakes and locked the tires up because the ABS wasn't working. Then I tried punching it from a stoplight and found that the traction control was not functioning either.

dough

I found out that the computer is not giving out any code but the lights are on. There is no way to reset this it without a code is what I am being told. I had all three of these lights on 3 years ago but it turned out to be a speed sensor in the rear wheel. This time, the sensors are all good.

It seems odd that we all have this problem yet no fixes reported. Anyone try unhooking the battery overnight? A friend suggested that to me but I don't know if it is a good idea.

Like yours, my ABS and traction control are not functioning. Is there some glitch with the I30s that I never heard about?

dough

I had the speed sensors and the inductance ring checked yesterday. Everything was apparently working well. The lights just stay on now and I can tell the ABS is not working. MEchanic says that he is not getting any error codes so he believes the ABS Contol Module needs to be replaced. He told me this is rare but sometimes it gets fried. Anyone have any experience with this? Where is the ABS control Module?

L0R1DA

I would check the wiring from your wheel speed sensors all the way up, as well. Especially before replacing an expensive module.

austintaneous

I had this happen to my '03 I35 and took it in to the dealership. After replacing the entire dash unit, they found that the problem was the engine mount sensors. They replaced these under warranty as it happened around 40,000 mi. so I am not sure what the cost would be. They had the car for two weeks before they could get it figured out though.

raptor2003

Hey all,

Proud owner of a 2000 Infiniti I30 with nearly 175k miles here. I’ve had some bizarre electrical issues with my car similar to what you’ve reported above (along with a few other – unrelated? – things), it’s a relief to hear I’m not alone with this issue:

- 4 lights on the dash light up: the SES light upon starting, and then the ABS, TCS Off, and SLIP lights come on once I put the car in drive and move forward just a bit. These lights come on, without fail, every time I use the car. The SES error code I got last time I was at AutoZone: P1320 (ignition signal) & P0430 (Catalyst system). This was a couple months back though, so I might need to get it re-checked.

- My rear brake lights are completely off (will not turn on at all) when I set my lights to the “Auto” setting. Brake lights work as normal when turning the headlights on.

- Transmission/gear selector is locked so that most days when I want to move the gear shift from Park to Drive, I have to insert a small key in the SHIFT LOCK. Occasionally this symptom doesn’t persist, but I would say roughly 75% of the time I need to use an object to depress the SHIFT LOCK so I can move the gear selector.

I’ve checked my fuses – all are OK except for the starter fuse (10 amp; "ST"). Bought some replacement fuses at AutoZone, replaced the starter fuse and…I’m still not getting any power to that fuse. So, apparently there’s no issue with the fuse itself (i.e., it’s not blown).

Any thoughts? With as many symptoms as I’ve listed I may have multiple issues… As you can probably tell, I’m no car expert like many of you, and I’m a student so I’m trying to do anything I can myself to save $$. With that being said, electrical issues may be WAY over my head so I may have to just go ahead and bite the bullet. If there’s additional information I can provide, let me know and I’ll do my best to answer them.

Thanks so much in advance for your help!

GarageToys

iTrader: (1)

I finally just took mine to the dealer and had it fixed. They scanned the computer and found the Right Rear ABS sensor had failed.

PN# 47900-2Y060 Sensor Assy, Anti-Skid $179.11
Labor $240.00
Total with Tax... $432.10

Hopefully, you guys will find a cheaper way out. Good Luck.

Maxi-mus

So GarageToys,

Have your lights lit up sense fixing the sensor? Mine just went on...

Thanks!

GarageToys

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I couldn't tell you. I sold my I30 a week or two after I got the sensor fixed. I had to buy something that all 4 kids would fit into... a Tahoe.

prince95

Hi,
I have had all 3 lights on my 2001 MAxima SE with no success in either finding a code or finding a way to reset. HAve tried to disconnect the battery overnight, replaced 1 RR sensor which was obviously rusted but still no success. My local mechanic checked recently, and still no codes showing or obvious issues.
Any further idesas woudl be appreciated.

JoySoCute

Same problem here on 2001 Anniversary Edition. I don't care if ABS ever works again, just want lights to go out. Removed ABS fuse and the Slip light goes out, but not the others. Is there another fuse that might do the trick?

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

i have the same issue. The lights come on after it rains but stays on for weeks. I'm leaning towards the right rear abs sensor BUT my right rear caliper is seized as well (which i know for a fact). Can the bad caliper be causing these lights to come on?

Dlminny

iTrader: (1)

just got an 03 i35 with the same issue. ordered the front right abs sensor. hopefully it clears it up. should get part installed in about a week

VQtHuRtY

iTrader: (3)

So, to add to the bunch, I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima with the same issue. I have the ABS light all the time. Then once in a while the SLIP and TCS light will come on. The only thing that mine does, that I havent heard anybody mention is that my car is miss-firing. As if my car needs a tune up or as if the car is sensing the car lost traction. Sometimes the car will stop miss-firing, sometimes I could drive it all day like that(missing). Has anyone been able to fix this issue for good? Any tips?

VQtHuRtY

iTrader: (3)

I think its going to be the wheel speed censor... Ima check mine soon and replace them... I'll let y'all know what happens...

DMCKNIGHT

I KNOW I'M A BIT LATE. BUT I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM...ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT MY LIGHT COME ON IF I GO ABOVE 55-65MPH. AND JUST 2DAYS AGO SOMETHING REAL WEIRD HAPPENED. MY 2000 I30 IS DRIVING LIKE A 4 CYL. WHEN I HIT THE GAS IT MOVES OFF BUT FEELS AS THOUGH IT IS NOT GETTING GAS....IT DRAGS FOR ABOUT 5-10 SECONDS THEN KICKS OFF AS IF THERE IS A DELAY IN RECIEVING GAS....ANY SUGGESTIONS?

HellBlazerRaiser

I took my 2006 Maxima to my regular mechanic and he couldn't figure out what was wrong with my car.

The "TCS OFF" light is lit along with "SLIP," "BRAKE" and "ABS."

In addition to that, the AC will not work and my fuel gauge is on empty with the empty light lit.

Can someone please help me out with where to go for this?

I am not car savvy.

Thanks!!!

Dan

Avick

i got an issue wid my 01 infiniti i30, the problem is that when i m stuck in traffic it struggles to shift and then stops shifting, then once is turn off my car for 5-10 min it starts working properly, however if i m in the highway no problem at all i changed my radiator did my transmission service and replaced some sensors. However i fixed it and then now my car gives me a jerk as if it cant downshift i have to put in neutral and then D to get it bak to the first gear do u have any idea abt this, moreover my o/d light blinks sometime.

thanx bro appreciate it

rrachapudi

I had all these lights on in my car for over an year. Could not get any code and analysis from auto stores or independent repair shops. Took it to the dealership yesterday . They analyzed and said it was a bad Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor. Replaced it (Part 47900-2Y060 Sensor $205 and Labor $280) + Taxes. So cost about $530. The lights disappeared. Hope they stay off for some time. I hope this information helps somebody and hopefully they can get a better deal.

cahillsr

Car has built in abs diagnostics
This is how to FIX your problem. find OBDII connector under dash.
1 Turn key off
2 Ground pin 9 of obdii connector
3 Turn on key keeping pin 9 grounded do not step on brake
After 3 seconds warning lamp will start to flash read codes (flashes)
first will flash 12 (one flash then 2 flash) followed by a error code

codes
25 Front Left sensor open
26 Front Right sensor shorted
21 Front Right sensor open
22 Front Right sensor shoretd
31 Rear Right sensor open
32 Rear Right sensor shorted
35 Rear Left sensor open
36 Rear Left sensor shorted

To reset codes turn key off ground OBDII connector pin 9
turn on key and remove ground to pin 9 within 10 sec now short pin 9 to ground for 1 sec 3 times in a row warning lamp should go out

Good Luck!!!!!!! This info should save you $500

cahillsr

MORE CODES
45 Actuator front left outlet valve
46 Actuator front left inlet valve
41 FR outlet
42 FR inlet
51 RR outlet
52 RR inlet
55 RL outlet
56 RL inlrt
18 sensor rotor
61 actuator relay
63 Solenoid valve relay
57 lo voltage
71 bad control unit

Haneyville10

i had all lights come on in my 2000 nissan maxima and a new MAF FIXED ALL!!

harrywei2006

I have my 2001 maxima GLE. running well but ABS TCS SLIP lights all on. Got mechanics to diagnose and found out there were both left frond and rear sensors open circuits. Purchased the new parts and had mechanics replaced them. Then fixed it. Excited!

JoySoCute

My 2001 Maxima Anniversery model has had the lights on for a year (except for the slip light, which went out after taking out fuse). How much to fix your problem? Dealership or not?

dan.worts

I have the same problem - abs, tcs, and slip lights all are always on. For a few days they went off after restarting the car but they are now always on. I assume I have a bad ABS/wheel spin sensor. harrywei, how much did the fix cost you? And has anyone had success in fixing this problem by simple cleaning the sensor?

chrismg67

I have a similar issue on my 06 Maxima. The Service Engine,TCS off and slip light will come on and the car will not accelerate. I guess it thinks the tires are slipping. Today was the third time and one thing I realized was that it always does it after a rain, when it is humid. The last time it did it, the idler pulley fell apart so I thought maybe the alternator is putting out some funky voltages. It did not do it again after the idler pulley was replaced until it rained today. It sounds like the humidity is causing a short somewhere but like many on this forum, when I get it to the dealership, the lights have gone out and they can't find anything wrong with it. I have never had the ABS light come on like other have.
An unrelated issue is the driving/fog lights keep burning out. Last trip to the dealership, I was told they were wired wrong but they have burned out again after about a week.
I love my Maxima and this is my third one. I put almost 250000 miles on my 2000 SE and never had any kind of problems like this on the first two but I need a dependable car that won't leave me stranded. Any suggestions are apprecaited

Bxfinest1

I have a 06 maxima, the car has been giving me problems sience day 1, first time i owm a nissan, anyways my tcs,slip nd abs are coming on my car eberytime the car gets hot, wen this happen the car dosent move nd leave me stranded werever im, took it to my mekanic we replace alternador,battery nd throtle body still having the same isue, went to

chrismg67

Is there a way to disable the Traction Control System on an 06 Maxima SE? Is there a fuse somewhere I can just pull out so it won't work?

dan.worts

On my 2001 there is a switch just under the gauges to do such a thing, I am not sure if that is carried over to the 6th generation Maximas, but that would be easier than getting into anything electrical.

Sternzy

I have this same issue on a 2000 Maxima GLE. TCS/OFF, ABS, and SLIP lights all remain on after running the car for a few minutes. After reading through a few sites, and this thread I decided to take the ABS wheel speed sensors off for inspection.

I took the drivers side off after letting some pb soak on the bolt overnight. It came rite out and after inspecting the area there didn't seem to be any problems, and only minimal corrosion, so i put it back together after wiping everything down and blowing the whole area out with a compressor.

Then I moved to the other side and noticed significantly more corrosion. The bolt snapped off immediately, with hardly and pressure on it. Then when putting minimal pressure on the ABS sensor to pull it out the top broke off from the cylinder almost immediately. Corrosion had build up around the top and seemed to actually have made it's way inside the sensor itself.

So now I have the sensor and the bolt broke off into the hub, neither of which I can get out.

Tomorrow I will be taking the entire hub off the car to bang the sensor out of it's whole from the back side. This will also allow me to get at the back piece of the bolt that is broken off. I will let the bolt soak over night with PB Blaster and try breaking it loose with a pair of vice-grips tomorrow, if that doesn't work I will try an Easy Out, if that doesn't work I will drill it out and put it back together with a nut and bolt.

I just wanted to pass this information along in the off chance it might help someone else out, as this seems to be becoming a popular issue.

If this works, the ABS wheel speed sensor can be found for around $130. Making this project a $130 + Elbow grease fix.

I will come back tomorrow night and post the results.

Here's hoping this fixes the problem

Sternzy

In regard to my post above^^

What I was referring to as a "hub" is apparently not what I was talking about.

Anyone know what that big metal bracket is called the abs wheel speed sensor is attached to is called?

Sternzy

The "hub" I was referring to is actually called the steering knuckle. I wound up drilling the bolt out starting with a 1/8" bit in the center of the bolt, working my way up to 5/16" which completely removed the broken bolt and most of the threads out.

When I get the new sensor I will secure it with a nut and bolt using the same hole.

Only thing left to do is install the new sensor and see if it turns all the lights off.