JujuSL

Need to disengage my ABS sensor but I do not have my fuse box diagram. I have a 2004 (A34) Maxima SL. Can anyone upload a picture of their Fuse Box Diagram.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

I have an '05 SE, but when I had ABS issues I simply unplugged the front passenger side sensor. I believe you can disable it by pulling a fuse, but this worked for me as well. Noticed that after I did this the car's ABS system would do the self check 'hum' thing for a few seconds when I turned on the ignition, and the ABS / TCS OFF / SLIP lights would be on. The harness is near the coolant reservoir area.

If no one else replies, I can take a picture later of my interior fuse panel diagram for you, if it'll help. But on the other hand, I'm not sure if the fuse is in there or under the hood. Either way, I'll look for it and let you know.

JujuSL

Please do. It's engaging unnecessarily, and I think its because of it having a dirty sensor. My mechanics not in the area so I really don't want it to break itself or something. Not too familiar with this process though.

JujuSL

And I have the interior fuse panel. My engine fuses are currently uncovered, and I need the fuse box diagram for it.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Alright, it's raining out now, but I'll go out and get you some pictures. Give me a few minutes. But for the record, your problem likely stems from one of the rear sensors (usually the passenger rear). What happens is, dirt, rust, road grime and corrosion build up in the wheel hub area, and this causes the sensor to get a bad reading. When this happens, the abs engages randomly. Not only is it a nuisance, it is dangerous as well (ask me how I know! ). I was having this problem and fixed it by changing both wheel hubs/bearings. There is a fix for this wherein people keep the old hubs/bearings but grind a notch that allows water to flow out and not build up. I needed new wheel bearings anyway, so I just opted to replace them all. My sensors were actually still good, I just cleaned them off with some electric parts cleaner, put everything back together, and it's been good for about a year, ABS still works as it should, and only when it should.

Edit: If you are slightly mechanically inclined and feel to tackle it yourself, or if you just want to get an idea of what it entails, here is the TSB, with pictures, of the repair procedure:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/ba...NTB07-016b.pdf

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Ok, here you go. Yes, It's filthy under there; I've been neglecting her for a while . Should be clean enough for you to see though

Here's the box near the coolant reservoir, lifted straight up and placed in normal position of function, right above the fuse box:



Not sure if you need this one too, but this is the box next to the battery:

JujuSL

You may, just literally apparently, have been a lifesaver lol. I'm going to try and tackle it alone, but if I can't handle it I'll just take it over to the garage and leave the car there until my mechanic arrives. Trust no one else to deal with my car since the techs in my local Nissan Dealership are beyond horrible. Hopefully removing the sensor temporarily alleviates the problem and makes the car drive-able for around a week. Bearing that it doesn't snow before then. Gotta love New England weather.

JujuSL

Would I have to take out the ABS Sol or ABS MTR though. I'm guessing ABS Sol is for the solenoid though. Trying to fully confirm this before I even take a whack at it.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

I would pull the ABS CONT fuse from the coolant side fuse panel first. I think that one should do it for you. I cannot say with certainty though, as I disconnected the abs sensor next to that fuse box to disable my abs, instead of going the fuse route.

The fusible links in the other box, I dunno... For some reason I would probably just leave those as is

Try Pulling the 10a ABS CONT fuse and see if it does the trick. Wouldn't hurt anything.

JujuSL

Just reread the initial post. I think I'd be better suited to not pull my idiot card into overdrive lol. Cars going into the garage for a few days...

JujuSL

Oh. Ok, I'll just try pulling out the ABS Cont soon as I get out of class or when I get home since it hasn't, as of yet, engaged on me in the highway. General knowledge question on that, ABS only engages when the vehicle hits below 20 mph right?

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Always good to go with your gut instinct, I suppose. At any rate, let us know how it goes.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

That's how my problem started - the ABS would randomly engage under normal braking conditions at low speeds (under 20mph). Eventually it got worse and the ABS would kick in when slowing down at just about any speed. Got to the point where I didn't feel like ending up in the hospital or worse, so I just disabled it until I had the time to replace the wheel hubs.

Theoretically, the ABS should kick in whenever the system detects wheel slippage under a particular braking condition (such as driving and braking somewhat hard over gravel, water, snow, ice, etc).

JujuSL

I wasn't able to follow through with it today. But I will definitely do it tomorrow, and follow through on the results.

JujuSL

Actualy pulled the ABS CONT fuse out and that was a bad idea lol. Ended up with a nonworking speedometer, and the brake light on. Had to put it back on or risk speeding past 100 mph lol. Gonna try and see if I could pull out some other one and keep my speedometer working.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

wow, well, that's not good

If you don't get through with pulling the fuses, you can always try disconnecting the sensor, which will disable it as well. The sensor harness is pretty easily accessible as it is right next to the coolant side fuse box. I drove like that for a few months before I actually got a chance to perform the repair. No issues and the brakes worked without clanking to a stop every time I pressed them

JujuSL

Lol. Mechanic reached gonna see now if I can get everything done and over with for a non-jail rape scene price... If it comes out to the same price as replacing the sensor which cost around 350 then i'll just replace it. Hope fully since its just a hub removal job he can just do it.

JujuSL

Job was supposed to take me out for 50 bucks but through difficulty, the job came out to being 130 since, both sides had to be worked on and cleaned, and had to do a run with the diagnostics system plugged in so that went for 30 extra. SO far no noise, so thank ou for all your help.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

Cool, no problem. Glad to see that you're up and running again!

oxley84

[ i have the same problem. What fuse should i pull so i can drive saftley?



QUOTE=CRiME;8624725]Ok, here you go. Yes, It's filthy under there; I've been neglecting her for a while . Should be clean enough for you to see though

Here's the box near the coolant reservoir, lifted straight up and placed in normal position of function, right above the fuse box:



Not sure if you need this one too, but this is the box next to the battery:

[/QUOTE]

apkd28

[QUOTE=oxley84;8692405][ i have the same problem. What fuse should i pull so i can drive saftley?

Pull Abs Mgr Fuse I just did it today my Maxima drives and brakes smooth again i just broke the fuse didnt pull it out. Now when u do this ur abs and brake light will turn ON. why i did it in the first place was because my abs activates with normal brakes and no one can figure out why and no codes for issue. Also i do believe u need to buy a new fuse to pass inspection so those lights will turn Off.

Do not Pull the abs cable out Rear of ur alternator will also disable ur abs but ur speedometer an mileage will not work. well not a bad thing if u dont want to add mileage to ur car and u can always get a speedometer app lol. Well hope This helps